inadvertently added liqui moly additive to engine oil

[blackie1]

hi
1992 k1100
i have just changed out the engine, transmission and final drive oils.

i had a tube of "liqui moly" MoS2 anti friction additive,( pictured)

i proceeded to add approx 15 ml to  the transmission oil and 15 ml to the final drive oil . no problems with that

however, then, without brain fully engaged i added the rest, approx 20ml  to the engine oil.

is this going to harm my engine? 

please advise and i thank you in advance

 

[Laitch]

is this going to harm my engine? 

It might make conditions too slippery for the sprag clutch to start the bike. The conservative approach would be to drain the oil and filter then refill with oil without moly. The adventuresome approach would be to do nothing then see what happens. If starting problems happen, maybe they will be local and not hundreds of miles away during a rainstorm or a necessarily hasty departure.

[TimTyler]

I'd be worried about it clogging the oil filter.

I'd add a bottle of Rislone, heat up your engine really well, drain the oil, and install a fresh oil filter and fresh oil.

[Nine80seven]

Ask Liquimoly. 

[blackie1]

i have e mailed liqui moly and am awaiting a reply.

prior to realizing my mistake i rode it for about 20 km and i have to say it has NEVER run as smooth and silky as it is at present lol

thank u for your reply's  and advice.

 i will post reply from liqui moly when they get back to me

[The Mighty Gryphon]

My K100RS always started with no problems.  Then, last winter I pulled the head to replace the valve guide seals and used a Moly assembly paste when I put the valves back in.

A week later after about 20 miles of riding I started having sprag problems.  They were the first I had in the 4000 miles that I had owned the bike.  Did a flush with Seafoam, replaced the oil with Rotella T6.  Haven't had one sprag non-engage since then. 

Coincidence?  Maybe, but I put moly powder in my transmission and final drive but won't put in the engine of any of my bricks.

[blackie1]

heeding the advice from Nine80seven i did contact Liqui Moly directly.

the following message is from Liqui Moly HQ, Germany (they responded in less than 24 hrs, very impressive)

"The volume of 20 ml Anti-Friction-Additive is only 0,5 % of the total motor oil volume.
 So there will be absolute no problem and you have not to change the motor oil and also not the oil filter.
If you want, you can add Liqui Moly Oil Additive, this one for engines, in dosage of 4 to  5% or from 150 to 200 ml !"

i will therefore continue to run it as is and if i begin to have any problems with sprag engagement, with the advice from Laitch and the Mighty Gryphon, i will swap out the oil and filter with a full engine flush as advised by TimTyler.

thanks to all  who responded, all advice was spot on.

i will update this thread after the next 1000km or if a problem develops, which ever comes first   :clap:

[Nine80seven]

Thanx for the follow up.  I know Liquimoly has an additive just for engines.  No additive will solve real problems in an engine.  Not sure that the sprag clutch is actually like a friction disc clutch.  Never took apart a K bike to see for myself. 

[Jez]

 Sprag clutch is usually a series  of  cams that grip the shaft of the starter gear in one direction, that's my experience with Rotax engines. Presumably  it's the same in a K but hopefully not as troublesome.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

The sprag is indeed a set of cams that grip when rotated in the correct direction.  Initial engagement is a function of how much friction there is between the cam and the wheel that provides the input torque.

If something interferes with that initial friction, the cams will not rotate and lock.  Molybdenum works by coating the surface of the engine's moving parts to reduce friction.  Fine for things like bearings, rings and bushes where low friction is desirable, but maybe not so good where parts have been designed to have some specific amount of friction between them in order to work properly.

The engine that had the sprag problem has over 114,000 miles on it and it is possible that wear and some work polishing of parts made operation of the sprag somewhat marginal and the molybdenum I introduced may have been the straw that broke the camel's back.  Maybe in a newer engine it wouldn't be as sensitive.

In any event, I will continue to use molybdenum powder in the transmission and final drive and straight synthetic oil in the engine.

[thecableguy]

Gryph,  What exactly do you mean by

Did a flush with Seafoam

?

Do you mean you added some to the existing oil, ran the engine or rode awhile, and then changed oil or do you mean you did something more extreme? 

Jim

[blackie1]

have put a further 2000 kms on the clock.
no problems at all .
starts fine
runs great.

wound it up in the weekend and blew past a couple of jappers at 180km/hr.  (a speed i only frequent about once a year)
talking to them later at a cafe they couldn't believe how quiet the k1100 was as it ghosted past them lol

probably lucky i had added such a small amount of liqui moly to my engine oil and hopefully i have got away with it
just heading into summer down here and everyone's out on their bikes in the weekend. its great

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Cableguy,  What I did was drain the oil with the moly contamination, refill with a cheap 10W30 and a fresh filter, added a bottle of Seafoam and rode the bike a moderate distance, I think about 20 miles.  I had to backspin bump the engine each time I started it.

Then I drained the oil, changed the filter and refilled with Shell Rotella T6 15W40 synthetic for diesels.  That was about 3500 miles ago, and the sprag has not misbehaved once since doing the flush where I was having problems on nearly every start after using the moly assembly lube.  Since I had no sprag issues before doing the cylinder head work last winter I can only assume that the assembly lube had something to do with my starting problems.

[Nine80seven]

We have German K bikes riders/aficionados here,  I would bet a few use liquimoly.  never used the powdered stuff.  Powdered moly seems not too well thought out.  Maybe liquimoly did the testing on K engines already?  Good grief, it's been 35 years since it was first manufactured, and both are german.  Liquimoly's been around since the mid fifties.  IIRC, oil filters filter down 10 to 5 microns, moly is way smaller.  Can't filter out moly.

Isn't most synthetic motor oil spiked with moly?  Regular oil too? 

[johnny]

greetings...

i put cheep high detergent oil and a whole can sea foam in my brick a few years ago... went 200 miles and put cheep high detergent oil and 3 shots of guarddogg moly for engine oils in there... went 200 miles and put in the standard mobil 1 20w50... a new filter each time... no adverse effects noted...

j o