1996 K1100LT Fork seal replacement

[piptravels]

Has anyone replaced the fork seals on this bike by removing the lower telescoping tube? If so, how does it slide off the stantion?
Is it by removing the allen bolt at the bottom of the forks (that can only be accessed after removing the front tire?) I have read every single post on fork seal replacement on this forum as well as going over both the Clymer and Haynes fork snippets posted on this site and can't get a clear answer. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Laitch]

I have read every single post on fork seal replacement on this forum as well as going over both the Clymer and Haynes fork snippets posted on this site and can't get a clear answer. Is it by removing the allen bolt at the bottom of the forks (that can only be accessed after removing the front tire?)

Yes, that bolt needs to be removed but you have other steps before that. If you follow the instructions in Clymer Chapter 14, pp. 608 and 609 then go to Disassembly on page 611, you'll read when to remove that bolt. It seems clear to me. What is hanging you up?

[Laitch]

I get it now. You're snippet-dependent. That doesn't make it easy, for sure. Well, there is a K1100 manual downloadable here in Repair Guidance Service Manuals. Maybe it will help.

[piptravels]

I get it now. You're snippet-dependent. That doesn't make it easy, for sure. Well, there is a K1100 manual downloadable here in Repair Guidance Service Manuals. Maybe it will help.

Yes I have that open. The figures 145 and 146 in the pdf snippet of Clymer are not visible. I guess where I'm getting hung up is that the top of the fork assembly near the handlebars need to accessed and or removed?

[piptravels]

The figures 145 and 146 in the pdf snippet of Clymer are not visible. I guess where I'm getting hung up is that the top of the fork assembly near the handlebars need to accessed and or removed? Is the K1200LT fork different from the K1100LT? I was watching this video and maybe hoping in vain that it was the same

[Laitch]

The figures 145 and 146 in the pdf snippet of Clymer are not visible.

Maybe not, but the K1100 manual is here at Motobrick.com and it has a section all about fork maintenance—Chapter 31, p 31.11. Why don't you look into it?  I don't know how K1200 forks are assembled. I don't use "hope" as a maintenance strategy; I use denial when necessary.

I have always removed the fork assemblies when doing maintenance including seals and bushings. After draining the oil, you'll need to remove that screw at the bottom of the slider to start disassembly. It can be troublesome. The best method is to give it a little heat, a little penetrant, then fit a long-shank hex wrench to it and jerk it loose. Don't be shy. To me, it seems easier to have the assembly in a vise for good leverage.

I'm sure seals have been replaced without removing fork assemblies from the yokes. Somebody is always doing stuff like that. You're certainly free to try it.

Live by the snippet; die by the snippet. Buying a whole Clymer manual is a good investment; it's like buying decent tools. Using other manuals along with it can be helpful also.

[piptravels]

I agree about the manual, my situation is not that favorable at present. I use the bike as my livelihood at the moment and unfortunately for me time is not a luxury either. Thanks for your response. And yes I was looking at the manual estimating the necessary time it would take. Looks like a project for another day.

Maybe not, but the K1100 manual is here at Motobrick.com and it has a section all about fork maintenance—Chapter 31, p 31.11. Why don't you look into it?  I don't know how K1200 forks are assembled. I don't use "hope" as a maintenance strategy; I use denial when necessary.

I have always removed the fork assemblies when doing maintenance including seals and bushings. After draining the oil, you'll need to remove that screw at the bottom of the slider to start disassembly. It can be troublesome. The best method is to give it a little heat, a little penetrant, then fit a long-shank hex wrench to it and jerk it loose. Don't be shy. To me, it seems easier to have the assembly in a vise for good leverage.

I'm sure seals have been replaced without removing fork assemblies from the yokes. Somebody is always doing stuff like that. You're certainly free to try it.

Live by the snippet; die by the snippet. Buying a whole Clymer manual is a good investment; it's like buying decent tools. Using other manuals along with it can be helpful also.

[brichbk]

I have to replace the fork seals on my 1993 K75RT and I was thinking I can use this method.  I used it on my 1982 Nighthawk and it worked great.  It seems like the forks are pretty close to the same on my k75 and nighthawk.

[Inge K.]

Is the K1200LT fork different from the K1100LT?

The K1200LT have a telelever fork which is different.

The Marzocchi fork on the K11 have bronze bushings at the bottom of the stanchion,
because of this BMW recommends that the sealings is mounted from the top of a clean stanchion.