Author Topic: Clutch adjustment  (Read 6852 times)

Offline alabrew

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 288
Clutch adjustment
« on: July 14, 2017, 02:05:15 PM »
On both Motobricks, the clutch engagement point is nearly fully out. The cable adjustment knob is turned in all the way at the lever and there is the proper 3" of cable at the clutch arm. The nut is just finger tightened into the transmission. All seems as per the manual.


I would prefer that the engagement point is about half way to full out as it would make it easier to feather for u-turns and the like. Any suggestions on how to achieve this? Wasn't sure if I could back the lock nut out and leave some slack?
  • Birmingham, Alabama
  • 1985 K100, 1991 K100RS
Also:
2005 K1200LT
1979 R65
200,000 miles on BMW motorcycles

Offline Filmcamera

  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 1463
Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2017, 02:43:50 PM »
You mainly do the clutch adjustment at the other end of the cable by the gearbox.

Here is a video from  Chris Harris showing how to do it

  • San Jose, Costa Rica
  • 1991 K100RS 16v ABS1, 2022 Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro
Poserbricker

Offline Laitch

  • Faster than a speeding pullet
  • Administrator
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  • Posts: 11299
Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2017, 08:33:00 PM »
.
I would prefer that the engagement point is about half way to full out as it would make it easier to feather for u-turns and the like.
The clutch should be adjusted as described in the manual.

Describe the difficulty you are having with the friction zone.
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline alabrew

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 288
Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2017, 12:14:21 AM »
Thanks for the replies. I've watched the Chris method but it doesn't jive with either book I have. The clutch disengages within 1/2 inch of lever pull. I would prefer that it disengages at about the half way point. My K1200LT's engage not far from the handgrip and I find it easier to modulate.
  • Birmingham, Alabama
  • 1985 K100, 1991 K100RS
Also:
2005 K1200LT
1979 R65
200,000 miles on BMW motorcycles

Offline Laitch

  • Faster than a speeding pullet
  • Administrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 11299
Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #4 on: July 15, 2017, 06:47:46 AM »
I've watched the Chris method but it doesn't jive with either book I have. .
Harris's method seems to jibe with what I've read more or less. According to your profile, you seem to have extensive experience with K100 bikes. Were you as dissatisfied with their clutch operation as you are with this one's? The K100 has a mechanical clutch operation. The mechanical system needs a fundamental amount of lever travel to retract and completely release the clutch.

The K1200—at least those in what I have read so far—has a hydraulic clutch system with a design that permits three adjustments to the lever position. I believe it is fair to say the K1200 system might have evolved partially to accommodate riders with your particular concern.
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline Andy FitzGibbon

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 123
Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #5 on: July 15, 2017, 06:49:39 AM »
Engagement close to the end of travel could indicate a worn disc. Do you know anything about the condition or mileage of the clutch disc in either bike?


Andy
  • Montrose, WV
  • 1985 K100RS, 1972 R75/5, 2012 Suzuki DR650

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