OK, The measurements are roughly as follows:
From center of piston mount to full stroke...10" or 255 mm
Just the stroke from lock to lock is 8.5-6ish inches or 215-220mm.
I admit that the damper might be 1 or2 mm shy of full lock to lock, it's hard to tell. When setting the mount I could get a minute shift when the rear bracket was loosened for adjusting.
Just realized that I tend to think that everyone knows how to do basic set-up.
First thing you'll need to do is to trim the black plastic on the underside of the fairing so that the Ohlins larger piston mount will fit
Second, you will need to make a barrel spacer/sleeve that removes the freeplay when you use the stock phillister screw with the larger Ohlins piston rod mount. I described what to use for this in the o.p..
The other options are to either:
a)have a custom screw made that has a thicker shank and narrower thread,
b)you could try drilling out and tapping the fairing mount(I do not recommend, not enough material there, imo.)
c)cut off the old mount and weld in a replacement(IMO, too tricky and not a simple/reasonable replacement at that point).
Third, you loosen the rear mounting bracket and slide all the way back so that you can insert the rear phillister screw(mounting bolt). At this point go ahead and mount to the factory mount on the fork.
Fourth, Slide the OEM screw with barrel sleeve shim into the piston rod mount and then attach to the fairing mount
(Note: With the front wheel on this is a PITA. No really, it is a pita when mounting the oem damper. It takes on a new level of try to get it aligned right, then try again, try again followed by an offering of a poetic haiku of expletives to the mechanic gods and finally it lines up right. Now, its not as difficult with the front wheel off but removing the front wheel adds a lot of time to the job.)
Fifth, Once the damper is mounted, turn the bars to the right until full lock then partially tighten the mounting bracket to the damper body.
Sixth, whatch the damper as you (or preferably a helper) slowly turn the bars all the way to left full lock. Make sure that the damper body does not silde until you hit full stroke. If it slides at full stroke only a mm or two your fine. Use a marker to note the 2 positions and split the difference and then tighten the bracket down.
Seventh, play with the adjustment until you find the right amount of damping for our tastes.
Note to all readers. I say that the suzuki damper may be a mm or two short. The reason that I say may is that I have gaiters on my bike and they hit the damper enough possibly be the cause of the nudging at lock. If any one is uncomfortable with the idea of the damper nudging at full lock then I suggest running one of the Hyperpro's that have the same mounting system as the Ohlins you will hopefully see pictured below.
Later,
Freelancer
P.S. Feel free to ask questions or let me know if I need to take a different shot. And yes, I know the girl needs a bath, I live down a red clay and iron ore drive so pls don't judge to harshly.
Ltr,
Fl
