Electrical connectors

[JPaganel]

What's the collective wisdom on replacing the OEM connectors with something more weather-resistant? Beemer-blasphemy, or a good idea?

[Mike Flores]

I replaced almost all of mine with weatherproof connections. I'd say it's a good idea. I think others would support it as well.

[Martin]

I've never had any problems with electrical connectors on my Brick. However I did go over all my connectors and cleaned them (Deoxit) and then applied contact grease, you can also use dielectric grease, copper grease or silicon grease. A lot of owners advise against using grease, but I believe it stops the ingress of water, road crud and air which leads to corrosion and bad connections. The main problem connector is the four pin connector to the fuel pump which is known to cause problems, if it is suspect I would probably replace it as a precaution. As for replacing all of them I believe it is overkill, as once I cleaned and greased mine I have not had any problems in 19 years. I do regrease and clean any connectors that I have apart occasionally.
Regards Martin.

[kioolt]

I've owned my 91 K100LT for 25 years now and 129K miles.  I ridden in all kinds of weather.  The only connector that I have ever had problems with is the speedometer sensor connector.  And it hasn't given me enough trouble to even bother with do anything about it.  The last time it gave trouble was probably at least over 5 years ago.  If it ain't broke don't fix it.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Unless you're riding through salt water there isn't much damage the elements can do to make the wiring harness less reliable than it would be if you were to remake all the electrical connections to install new connectors.

Best to leave well enough alone. 

[Filmcamera]

The elements maybe not but trust me PO's can wreak havoc!!   :musicboohoo:

[Brad-Man]

Anywhere I need to put in a new connector I use Deutsch connectors.

This is mainly on PO screwups...and usually where the connectors are hiden.

On my RD350's I use new stock type bullet connectors because hey- they don't see rain - they are for fun!s

[JPaganel]

The elements maybe not but trust me PO's can wreak havoc!!   :musicboohoo:

Seen my share of that...

The brick has a random speaker wire with a tap on it sticking out the side. No idea what that's for.

[jaxon]

If'n it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Unless you want to break it to fix it.

[JPaganel]

Further poking showed it's not the connector.

The trouble is in the four-wire harness to the tank. I was feeling along it and got a mild shock. Broken insulation, probably a broken wire somewhere.

Those wires are super thin. What gauge is that? 22? 26?

I need to get some wires, pull the tank, and fix the harness.

[rbm]

Most interconnecting wires in the harness are 1.5mm² whilst some are 0.5mm².  The ones to the tank should be 1.5mm²; they are not as thin as 26AWG since there is a significant current required for the pump.

[jakgieger]

I've owned my 91 K100LT for 25 years now and 129K miles.  I ridden in all kinds of weather.  The only connector that I have ever had problems with is the speedometer sensor connector.  And it hasn't given me enough trouble to even bother with do anything about it.  The last time it gave trouble was probably at least over 5 years ago.  If it ain't broke don't fix it.

  Worst thing is for the bike to sit.  Running and maintenance are the greatest good.  The connector you show is used all over my tractors.  This environment is in my opinion the most severe (dirt, water, solvents, etc).  They perform well and are live as long the plastic stays flexible.  THEY STILL NEED DIALECTRIC GREASE UPON INSTALLATION.  The grease acts to displace air.  If there is "air" in a connection, the heating/cooling of the connection will eventually "draw" moisture.  The original connections will function adequately if maintained.  Gotta love PO's :hehehe

[Laitch]

Worst thing is for the bike to sit.  Running and maintenance are the greatest good.

+1

The connectors on my bike are still in good shape but I suppose they could get brittle. I'll replace those that do when the time comes.

[JPaganel]

Now, another thing I'm thinking of.

Is there somewhere that I could get the original connector? Then I could just crimp it to new wires. If that's not a possibility, I can perfectly well splice and solder.

[Laitch]

Now, another thing I'm thinking of.

Overthink alert!

If it were my bike, I'd buy good quality solid pin connectors to replace the originals—if the originals were damaged. This isn't big money we're talking.

[rbm]

Now, another thing I'm thinking of.

Is there somewhere that I could get the original connector? Then I could just crimp it to new wires. If that's not a possibility, I can perfectly well splice and solder.

Most connectors on the BMW are speciality items, which were manufactured to BMW specs and not COTS products.  That means you won't be able to find electronics distributors anywhere who stock and sell these connectors.  If you manage to find a replacement harness with donor connectors that you could splice in, remember that they will be on the same age as the ones you are replacing.  You will not enjoy a long service life once you're completed your project (because they are approaching EOL).  The AMP Superseal connectors, a picture of which you posted in the first entry in this thread, are excellent replacements.  These connectors are widely available and are IP54 rated at least.  For those connectors on your bike which are normally subject to problems (fuel tank connector, speedo sensor, etc.), substituting the OEM connector for a SuperSeal would be excellent.  Doing a wholesale replacement of all connectors on the bike "just because" is not a good idea unless you know enough about connector types and specs to select replacements that meet the original requirements.

[stokester]

  Worst thing is for the bike to sit.  Running and maintenance are the greatest good.  The connector you show is used all over my tractors.  This environment is in my opinion the most severe (dirt, water, solvents, etc).  They perform well and are live as long the plastic stays flexible.  THEY STILL NEED DIALECTRIC GREASE UPON INSTALLATION.  The grease acts to displace air.  If there is "air" in a connection, the heating/cooling of the connection will eventually "draw" moisture.  The original connections will function adequately if maintained.  Gotta love PO's :hehehe

I've had no issues with my original connections but have regularly cleaned and checked them.

Since working at a Chevy dealership I've been using a substance called "Dielectric Lubricant" rather than Dielectric Grease.  Yes, there is a difference and GM has us use it on multi-pin connectors to "protect electrical terminals from moisture, oxidation, and corrosion and to ease the assembly of electrical connectors".  We use it on connectors that are subject to fretting, causing faults in sensitive monitoring circuits such as air bag.  Dielectric grease is used to lubricate and seal spark plug boots and…  as a weatherstrip lubricant.

[Chaos]

I just ordered another bottle of this.  Use it connections, switches, anywhere electricity has to jump from one spot to another. Good stuff.

[stokester]

"I just ordered another bottle of this.  Use it connections, switches, anywhere electricity has to jump from one spot to another. Good stuff."


Thanks.


I like the De-OxIT products and use them regularly with my radio repairs.  I did not know about this and need to add some to my bench stock.

[jakgieger]

Hope the dielectric "lubricant" is worth the price...   Amazon, 2oz for $15.06 on the lube vs. 3oz for $5.35 on Permatex grease. 

[stokester]

Hope the dielectric "lubricant" is worth the price...   Amazon, 2oz for $15.06 on the lube vs. 3oz for $5.35 on Permatex grease.

I feel there is a reason they make both and the price difference for something that will last for years is not a factor.

[Chaos]

the Dioxit D is the most effective cleaner-lube I have used.  And a little goes a long way.  I like it much better than dielectric grease.