Valve Adjustment

[Westone]

Hey, I am about to pull the valve cover off my K75 to check the valve adjustment. If needed, the local dealer has all the shims in stock and I can run down and get some. My question is this: I read somewhere, I don't know where, that of the ranges given for proper valve adjustment, the exhaust and intake are best set at one end of the range, for most efficient performance I think. I can't remember the reason, which end of the specified range was noted as best for the exhaust and intake, or where I read it. Can anyone who knows what I am trying to find or remember about the recommended valve adjustment tell what the advice was?
Thanks!

[TimTyler]

My Clymer says on page 82:

Intake: 0.15 - 0.20 mm

Exhaust: 0.25 - 0.30 mm

You want the exhaust to be on the loose side and the intake to be on the tight side, so I=0.15 / E=0.30. The logic is that, as they wear, the intake will loosen up and the exhaust will tighten.

[Westone]

Thank you TimTyler!

I bought a set of Valve Adjusting Tools from Ken Lively of Polepenhollow Machine and Tool for $28. Kinda hope they will be required to put into use. They came with very detailed instructions for checking and adjusting 2 valve K bike engines. And they are stout and will no doubt last a long time.

[Chaos]

+1 on the polepenhollow tools.  The logic behind setting the exhaust on the loose side is they run hotter and a looser adjustment gives them a little more "seat time" to cool off.  Conversely, since the intakes are cooled by the incoming mixture, adjusting them tighter allows them to remain open slightly longer to let more air/fuel into the chamber. 

[cy7878]

That's the last thing I need to do on my K100.  I read somewhere that Kawasaki valve shims work as well. 

[Westone]

Ended up buying three shims. #2 cylinder was out on both intake and exhaust. #3 exhaust was within spec, but I changed it just to make it consistent with the other two exhaust valves.

Sealant Question: I know a thin layer of sealant is recommended on the cam plugs. The previous outer cover gasket had sealant around each corner. Should I go back with that? The area where the front engine cover mates with the cylinder head is not exactly flush, but I expect the rubber gasket would seal it.

I came across a reference to Clymer's recommending sealant in specific areas, but don't where. I have a Clymers but have not found such a reference, though it's probably in there, I just can't find it.

[Westone]

Didn't realize it until I went to re-assemble everything, there is a coat of sealant on the entire valve cover inner and outer gasket surfaces, in the groove that accepts the rubber gaskets. Looks like the same Permatex Ultra Gray I bought for the cam plugs. I thought it best to clean it all up prior to putting it all back together, and it is taking time. Spray some brake cleaner, wait, repeat. I tried hitting it with a nylon brush, scraping it with a plastic edge, but not really any more effective than just waiting for the brake cleaner to eat it up. Didn't want to use anything stiffer for fear of damaging the surfaces. What a pain!

[Billk]

Take a look at this, it might be helpful.

[Westone]

It took longer to clean up all that old sealant than it did to adjust the valves, including the trip to the dealer to buy shims. There was a good 1/16" of sealant in the bottom of the groove in the cover all the way around, both inner and outer, and it was difficult to get properly cleaned. When re-installing I went with the recommended sealant at the front corners where the cylinder head, front engine cover and valve cover all meet. Two rides totaling 150 miles so far and bone dry, no leaks.

[vintagemilano]

Sorry for the resurrection of the thread, a quickie google search didn't help me. Do you have contact info for Polepenhollow Machine and Tool? To get the valve adjust tools?

Thanks, Carson

[Photog]

Here are his contact details as posted in the K100 forum;
Kenneth Lively
5019 109th st NE
Marysville WA 98271

polepenhollow@yahoo.com
847-561-8555

Good stuff, I have his clutch alignment tool, and one of these days, probably soon, I'll be ordering the valve tool.

[vintagemilano]

I ended up getting the valve tools from here, he was easy to deal with and the tools worked, he shipped them out super fast too.

[K1300S]

I just got a set from Ken using email address in this thread.  Great transaction!   Using them this weekend!

[Billk]

I just mustard up the courage to do a valve check on my '95 K75. All the valves are within spec with the exception of the number 3 intake valve. The .006 feeler is a no go. This would mean that the valve is too tight. All the others are within spec. I'm going to take the shim, on the 3 intake and run it up to the dealer for a sub. Will need to also pick up some RTV gasket sealer, any recommendations? I'll let you know how it all goes for all those that have put this off. BTW my bike has 24k miles. The dealer recommended this service at 25k miles. The cost would have been $250. With tax and gaskets it would have been over $300. Easily.
Bill

[Chaos]

I've never used silicon or any gasket sealer on my valve or crank case covers.  Other opinions are welcome.  I will say that if you have excess $$$ you need to loose by all means have a dealer service your brick!

[F14CRAZY]

I've never used silicon or any gasket sealer on my valve or crank case covers.  Other opinions are welcome.  I will say that if you have excess $$$ you need to loose by all means have a dealer service your brick!

My dealer charged for 2 hours, $170 total for a valve adjustment. I brought it to them with the lower fairing removed. That was a couple seasons ago...I'll either get the tools for next time or just pay it since K75 adjustments are so seldom