Leaking Waterpump again

[Barrieb]

Guys,
I know this has been done to death, I have searched and read all the posts/guides on this subject, before i did my seal/shaft and have a couple of questions.  I changed both my seals and the shaft, due to oild leak from the weep hole, there was probably water seepage as well, looking at the state of the seal.
Oil is now good, but i have a slight water leak until the engine warms up - its certainly not much, but I cant leave it leaking, here's the questions:
1. Could it be the ceramic discs have not "bedded together" yet,  I have only warmed the bike up and not yet taken her out for a run?
2. On stripping down the pump again, how can i indentify where the leak is coming from?
3. Is it worth putting a slight smear of non setting sealant (same as i have used on the pump body and cover) to supplement the blue sealant band that goes between seal and pump body?
4. finally I have a K100LT, anyone managed to fill the radiator without stripping the bike to pieces!

Thanks

Barrie

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Lift the seat, pull the tank back as far as the seat will let you(about 5" is my guess) and then push the tank over to the left.  That will expose the filler for the cooling system.  Sometimes you might need to remove the right side knee pad and the glove box.  You can get around that by using a funnel with a foot of hose.  You have to be a little careful not to have coolant overflow while you pour.

[Laitch]

How many miles have you put on it since you changed the seal?

[Barrieb]

Hi Laitch,

thats an easy one: zero! did not want to take it out for its MOT till i had it spot on.  In the UK they will give you an advisory notice for even a slight leak oil or water.

[Barrieb]

Lift the seat, pull the tank back as far as the seat will let you(about 5" is my guess) and then push the tank over to the left.  That will expose the filler for the cooling system.  Sometimes you might need to remove the right side knee pad and the glove box.  You can get around that by using a funnel with a foot of hose.  You have to be a little careful not to have coolant overflow while you pour.

Thanks Gryphon, if it has to be done again, that will make life a lot easier!

[Laitch]

In the UK they will give you an advisory notice for even a slight leak oil or water.

Bless their hearts! You must feel well-protected.    Anyway, there is a good chance the seal will bed down after the engine is run for a while. That's happened for others here. Generally, that would be calculated in miles, not minutes, but run it regardless and in intervals, if doing so won't poison you or the neighbors. 

[Barrieb]

Thanks Laitch,

I was hoping that might be the case! 
Yeah over here the Ministry of Transport (MOT) Test, they like to record something, so it proves the garage did something!  my car had a tiny amount of oil on the inside of the sump protector - probably from putting oil in - and they put it down as an advisory oil leak.  I asked them what the "Oil leak" was on the certificate and they told me nothing to worry about!  Been under the car, nothing
First world problems, i know, but I hope its better in the US

[Laitch]

. . . but I hope its better in the US

That depends upon the state where you live and the stringency of its rules. Some states have no inspection and some states require inspection stations to log inspection into a state database to keep applicants from shopping for lenient inspectors. 
Some states have state employees as inspectors and some states contract with private garages for inspection.

If your problem is a few random drips instead of a babbling brook of coolant, running the engine likely could end your torment. Try it in either case anyway. 

[frankenduck]

Only 15 of the 50 states have vehicle inspections.

However, even where vehicles are not inspected, some large population centers have emissions testing where cars have to emit below a standard level of CO, CO2, hydrocarbons and NOx.

[Barrieb]

Update

Hi guys, yep the slight drip stopped, so happy days.  However, when i first got the bike i noticed the sludge in and around the oil filler and that is still about after 2 oil changes and round the window.

I think i can be safe given i now have no leaks at the pump (oil or water) and the weep hole is clear that no fluids should be able to cross over?

So as long as i dont have a blown headgasket (I do remember being told by you guys years ago the head gaskets very rarely let go) this gunge should just be from the previously failed seals, and sitting around for years doing nothing.

any recomendations to flush out the crankcase that wont wreck all the oil seals?  I could pull off the Crank/Head cover and clean maunally as best as possible.

Just for piece of mind, is there a way to check if head gasket is letting oil into the water?

Thanks

Barrie

[The Mighty Gryphon]

If you want to clean out any water that might be in the engine I would recommend getting two gallons of 15w40 deisel engine oil and two oil filters.

Drain the oil and install a filter and fill with the 15w40 and run the engine for 50 -60 miles.  do another drain and filter change with the second gallon of 15w40.  Run another 50-60 miles and drain. 

That should get all the water and a lot of crap out of the engine.  Put in a new filter and your regular oil.

[Laitch]

Fergawdsake, take some time to revel in your good fortune with the combination pump.   

If oil leaks into coolant from a leaking head gasket, oil looks murky when viewed through the sight glass, but it also can look milky if water from condensation has infiltrated it. So there you go. 

Gryph's suggestion should work but if you insist on being obsessive, you'll need to remove the oil pan—a process which might bring with it extra work in an already awkward position if the screws attaching pan to the block are stripped because they were not worked with heat, penetrating oil, patience, and a correctly-fitting hex wrench with an extension handle, or the right-tighty orientation was lost by the operatior. 

[Barrieb]

Laitch,

your right!  I'm going to revel and get some miles on the bike! its been sat around far far to long.  Bank holiday weekend here i come!

[frankenduck]

Use Mobil 1 High Mileage 10-40 for an oil change. It contains both cleansers and seal conditioners.

These days I run my Ks with a 50/50 mix of:
15-50 Mobil 1
10-40 High Mileage Mobil 1

My theory is that it will keep the rear main seal from leaking.