another spline-al tap opinion solicitation...

[Zampano]

so I pulled the final drive today. Easy procedure, however I could not tug the driveshaft out, even after giving it a few whacks, so left it alone; knowing I could take it all apart again in a matter of 30 minutes. If it is imperative that I get to those front splines, let me know. However from what I've read the rear are what is important.

In any event, I took some pics and they look worn but I'm not sure how worn these are. They had no grease on them. Now they are lathered in guard dog.

sorry if this is too many pictures.

also, the final drive should have gear oil up to the bottom of the threads? I checked mine and it was low. Although some leaked from the cap on the top. What is the purpose of that hole in the top with plastic cap?

thanks! cheers!

[TimTyler]

Those splines look great.

Worn splines look like this.



The cap on the top is a vent or relief valve. Keep water away from it when you're cleaning the bike.

[johnny]

those are some fine looking splines... lube them up and they should last you a lifetime...

j o

[Zampano]

thanks, doc. Finally a decent piece of news. I'm still wondering if I should have found a way to yank that driveshaft and lubed the front end. I'm on the street though, between parked cars. Windy, dirty. I was using an old pizza box as a "clean surface."

Still waiting on the injectors and damper. Apparently one was "severly restricted" per mr. injector. So hopefully she'll run better, the fuel pump still pumps.

Other than an inline pressure gauge, is there a way to check the pressure regulator? Do they fail often? Are there certain symptoms? I'm trying to avoid any new cans of worms but at the same time feel I might as well use the injector cleaning and damper issues to tackle the fuel system. I have fears there are big chunks of rubber jammed everywhere; somehow making it past the fuel filter.

[Motorhobo]

Your splines look awful! I'll trade you mine for them...even trade and I'll throw in a bag of Skittles.

But seriously -- wish mine looked like that.

I recently had the same question about the FPR because I had to get in there to replace the fuel rail to FPR fuel line. It's a recent thread -- check it out if you want. t's an easy job to pull the top off the airbox to get to the FPR. You could make yourself crazy thinking about all the things that could fail at some undisclosed future date...so if it ain't broke...I didn't replace mine...runs great.

Wrt the driveshaft -- mine always came out by wrapping a crescent wrench around the end that protrudes from the swingarm  and levering against the swingarm. Used a rag to protect swingarm mating surface. Doesn't take much, usually pops right out. I am still scratching my head about the circlip Inge mentioned...but I've never had to remove any retaining clip to get the driveshaft out.

[Scott_]

I am still scratching my head about the circlip Inge mentioned...but I've never had to remove any retaining clip to get the driveshaft out.

If I'm thinking correctly, the circlip is on the output shaft(in the middle of the splines) so that the drive shaft yoke slides 'over the top of the circlip' such that the circlip fits into a groove machined in the inside of the yoke. thus "keeping" the yoke on the output shaft.
You can pop the yoke on/off over the clip without removing the clip.
The only lubrication you would need on this yoke would just be to allow it to slide over the clip as the clip will prevent it from any further movement while the bike is assembled.

[Zampano]

Wrt the driveshaft -- mine always came out by wrapping a crescent wrench around the end that protrudes from the swingarm  and levering against the swingarm. Used a rag to protect swingarm mating surface. Doesn't take much, usually pops right out. I am still scratching my head about the circlip Inge mentioned...but I've never had to remove any retaining clip to get the driveshaft out.

I tried that same method. Chris Harris pulls the shaft (i just wanted to type that) like that in one of his youtube vids. Appears to come out very easily. For whatever reason mine did not pop off even though I tried a few times and felt I was using more than enough force (also used wood + hammer for a little pre-pull whack (i'm 2 for 2 in innuendos).) So I said screwit b/c it really doesn't move. But, I'm meticulous and it will eat away at me and eventually I'll pull it. I have a feeling I'll be pulling the entire shabang off within a year or so. I've been told the rear seal is likely leaking (no clutch slip yet).

I'll check that FPR thread. I need to pull/clean the tank (damper was mush) so I'll probably get a look at the FPR. At the very least I might replace the vacuum hose to it. But I agree, if it runs, keep running it. If the FPR was malfunctioning it could explain some weird stuttering I have had. May be getting stuck, dropping the fuel rail pressure. But with the damper turned to mush and the fuel pump sitting on the bottom of the tank, as well has having 1 badly restricted injector and leaky injector seals.. I'm hoping one or more of those were the problem. I'd really like to feel this thing perform like it should.

How often is the final drive / gearbox oil changed?  I believe mine can't have more than 4000 miles on it. But the FD is low, mobile 1 is $11 a bottle.. so I feel like changing it. What is the guard dog additive I've been reading about. Is that for the tranny and FD or just tranny?

Thanks again. Sorry for all the questions. The post-spline rolling rocks have gone to my head...

[Elipten]

If you replace fuel pressure regulator use Amazon.  Type in the Bosh part number to search.  I purchased for ⅓ of BMW price!  Works great.  I figured for that price why not but at BMW price I would have left in place.  BMW NA is robbing us on part prices.

[Motorhobo]

Guard Dog moly -- http://www.beemerboneyard.com/k72vamaki.html

I use it for all splines, some people who know a lot more than me use it only for clutch splines. All I know is I used it everywhere and shifts smooth as silk, so I'm sold.

After seeing the condition of FD/DS splines on my 94 K75 I'll be lubing FD/DS splines every 5000k miles - which means today since im getting a new tire for my 95. Depending on how the rear looks I'll see about pulling the swingarm for the front. I'm only at about 3800 miles since last lube -- front splines wear slower anyway.

DS was a PITA on my 94 last week, but it popped off eventually. First I took off the swingarm with the DS in it, then realized its probably easier to remove the DS wth the SA on the bike, so I put the SA back on to get the DS off.

Thanks for the clarification on the circlip, Scott.

[TimTyler]

...Appears to come out very easily. For whatever reason mine did not pop off even though I tried a few times and felt I was using more than enough force (also used wood + hammer for a little pre-pull whack (i'm 2 for 2 in innuendos).) ...

I recall a post on the BMWMOA forum about a drive shaft that exploded at the final drive end during a ride. It happened to a very knowledgeable  K-biker (maybe deilenberger or 98lee?) and religious spline luber. It was speculated that regularly removing the drive shaft using the vice-grip 'n hammer method weakened the splines.

[Motorhobo]

And the non-exploding driveshaft removal method would be -- wait for it -- hey, crap, I don't know what it is!

Probably something to do with the aforementioned circlip that I didn't know existed.

Tim?

[TimTyler]

Remove the foot pegs and swing arm.

[Motorhobo]

Well -- when I tried that, the DS stayed with the output of the transmission and I was worried about damaging the swingarm boot when pulling it over the still-attached driveshaft. That's the other reason I re-attached the swingarm and used the exploding driveshaft method. You're saying the DS will not damage the boot when you slide the swingarm out over it?

One you get the swingarm off, you still have to deal with detaching the DS from the output splines...not trying to be a numbnutz but I will be doing this tomorrow so I'd like to get it right.

[TimTyler]

Once the swing arm is off (it can slide over the drive shaft), I just sit under the bike, grab the drive shaft with both hands and give it a hefty tug straight back.

If the bike doesn't tip over, the drive shaft will pop off :)

[Motorhobo]

OK will try. Maybe I'll also lean back and brace my feet up against the gearbox to counterbalance. Will send pic...well, no I don't think I will.

[TimTyler]

It will a good opportunity to check your swing arm bearings too.

The first time I took my swing arm off, the snap ring (#3) came off the rubber boot (#4) and it took way too long for me to get it back on properly since it goes inside the boot in a little channel. Pain in the butt.

[Motorhobo]

The first time I took my swing arm off, the snap ring (#3) came off the rubber boot (#4) and it took way too long for me to get it back on properly since it goes inside the boot in a little channel. Pain in the butt.

Snap ring came off boot while cleaning and checking boot last week -- looking forward to cursing profusely trying to get it back on.

I'm sure this exchange is reinforcing Zampano's disinclination to deal with this crap now -- wait till Sunday Z and I'll let you know what a PITA it really is.

[Zampano]

If you replace fuel pressure regulator use Amazon.  Type in the Bosh part number to search.  I purchased for ⅓ of BMW price!  Works great.

thanks. That's my plan if need be. I'm still waiting on parts so I won't know where things stand until this weekend or monday. My big hope is that the fuel pump and FPR are both still ok. If they are not it will be the $129 FP at euromotoelectrics and/or the amazon FPR. Do you remember who the seller on amazon was who you purchased from? I've seen a few and sometimes the picture does not jive at all with the FPR. Possibly a stock photo.

Guard Dog moly -- http://www.beemerboneyard.com/k72vamaki.html

I use it for all splines, some people who know a lot more than me use it only for clutch splines. All I know is I used it everywhere and shifts smooth as silk, so I'm sold.

that's the same stuff I just put on the splines. I thought I had read somewhere that folks recommend adding something to the FD and/or Gearbox oil.

I'm sure this exchange is reinforcing Zampano's disinclination to deal with this crap now -- wait till Sunday Z and I'll let you know what a PITA it really is.

ha. yes. My driveshaft splines are fine for the moment, thanks. I need to be comfortable in my delusions. But the big thing is the forward end of the shaft seems to be locked in place. I'm sure it still needs grease b/c there is a hell of a lot of torque there, but the clutch splines and rear of the driveshaft seem much more at risk. I'm totally jinxing myself. The day I go camping the front of my driveshaft will explode the moment I make it to the top of palomar mountain. Right about the same time my cellphone dies, I realize my tent flew off 30 miles ago, and southern california experiences it's worst lightning storm in over a century. But hey, the view is fantastic.

[Inge K.]

About removing the driveshaft, a sharp snatch to the rear is all that is needed.
First keep the driveshaft level, so the power which is used goes along the axis.
Second shake the driveshaft a bit forth and back, to free the mysterious circlip,
try a couple snatch...if no success...stop....you just jams the mysterious circlip.

Turn the driveshaft a 1/4 turn and start from "Second shake the drive" again
and just continue....could be two or three full turns is needed......
why...to get the mysterious circlip as close to the center as posibble before
the snatch is added, and then the circlip opens into the u-joint.

Unfortunately our driveshafts is two pieces of tubing with rubber between,
this method function better on car driveshaft which is one piece,
then the snatch/chock goes directly to the circlip.....then two or three attemps
usually is enough.

When this method doesn't success, next step is to remove the swingarm,
the advantage is that you also can examine and regrease the swingarm bearings.
Take care when removing the swingarm so you don't drop the driveshaft into
the driveshaft casing.
When the swingarm is away you also get acces to the outer tube of the driveshaft
which is in "one piece" with the uni joint......hint, above mentioned method.
Some also use a big screwdriver, and put that into a suitable opening in the
uni joint and lever againsy the gearbox casing.

I have a tool to be used together with a hook and slide hammer for this purpose.

[johnny]

avtrekker looks like some kinda medieval norway tickler to me... lucky helsinki is so far away or oma aika would be knocking on your door often...

j o

[Zampano]

avtrekker looks like some kinda medieval norway tickler to me... lucky helsinki is so far away or oma aika would be knocking on your door often...

j o

ha. Things were tricky back then. Powered by a windmill, a sudden gust could spell doom for the couple.

[TX brick]

To remove the driveshaft, place two big hose clamps- adjusters 180 degreee apart and pry with two screwdrivers. Use the edge of the swingarm opening as the fulcrums.