Driveshaft & Tranny woes

[Jimbenge]

On a recent trip coming back from Canada My front driveshaft u-joint broke.  See Pics in Link below.  Very expensive u-haul from Washington-Oregon Border to San Diego.  Got it apart OK, but figured I would check out the clutch-clutch lube and main seal. but can't figure out how to get the bracket under the battery tray out of the way for the tranny removal (it's the h shaped tubing that the abs pumps and foot peg plates connect to + battery & abs module).  It's a 1993 K1100RS (ABS-1)  anyone know how?  also do I have to remove the center - side stand assembly.  I have it up in the air so maybe i don't have to remove it ??

http://www.flickr.com/photos/20455966@N06/sets/72157636069574195/

[Grim]

I did my 95LT and it was a bit of a wrestle to get it out. I think I loosened the frame and had to take a screw driver to compress the bushings to pop it out. Went in about the same.

The stand really doesnt need to come off but it ads weigh to the job. I took the time to clean and lube it while it was off. Many people dont realize it has Zerk fittings on it and needs a squire of grease.

 I was doing the job by myself and bought some (8mm?)all thread from the local ACE to use as guide rods.  I then took a movers Dolly and cribbed up a box to let me slide the tyranny right off and roll out of the way. Worked great.

[lhead]

Almost exactly one year ago. Same bike. Same year. Same issue. Those pictures could have been from my bike. Have you sourced a replacement driveshaft? There's an excellent writeup Frankenduck did on this board about DS/Trans R&R and spline lube.

Recommendations based on my experience:

Take pictures of everything from every angle before you turn a wrench. When it comes time to reassemble, you'll be glad you did.

Keep parts, fasteners, etc. organized. Ziploc bags and sharpie markers are some of your most valuable tools in this process. You'll end up with what seems like a million parts and if any time elapses at all during the repair, you forget what went where.

Go ahead and pull the trans. since you're this far in. That way you can see how all splines look and clean and lube them.

I used Guard Dog Moly 60 grease for the spline lube and highly recommend it.

Replace the clutch O ring. Also, pull the clutch apart and look at and measure the clutch disc. Index mark the clutch parts so you put them back together as they came apart.

I removed the center/side stand assy. As I recall I did it because it was in the writeup to do so.

Now would be a good time to carefully examine the clutch cable. You'll have one end of it free anyway.

Look on the internet for videos. I think I've seen some that deal with this very process.

Do not, repeat do not pull the gear indicator sending unit apart. Take it loose from the trans, fine but don't disassemble any further. Pieces will be lost and it will never work again. DAMHIK.

Take your time.

Charlie

[johnny]

we had the same failure... butts we were 2up in the mountains... hammering it through a 30mph marked corner at 60mph...

heard and felt a clunk at the apex... stood it up... rear locked up... fishtailed off the road and kept it up... lucky we had a freshly graded wide shoulder in that corner...

unfortunatly because a week earlier a triumph 1100 rider lost his life in a head on in the same corner... thats the reason it was freshly graded or we would have cart wheeled off...

scored a 30k mile driveshaft and swapped it in and rode it till it wouldnt move...

now to my present motobrick... having learned my lesson... at 90k miles I swapped in a 30k mile driveshaft... plan on putting another 60k on it... that will be 150k on my odo... then swap it out with another low miles drive shaft...

90k... thats the limit for me on a drive shaft... the meat on the shaft where the u joints mount is just too thin to take it more than that...


j o

[lhead]

Exactly my thoughts Johnny.

It wasn't really a testament to German engineering when I saw how the yoke gave up on my shaft. It literally bent apart probably becuase the needle bearings on the u joint had lost their grease long ago. The metal had attainted that purplish heat color as well. If the u joints had a way to be greased periodically, it would be a realitively simple matter to pull the FD off, pull the shaft, grease them, and reinstall. BMW made no provision for that though. I know that u joints on car drivshafts don't normally come with grease fittings from the factory either, but it's a relatively easy fix when one of them lets go.

The DS on the K seems to be a part that's designed to fail, you just don't know when.

[Jimbenge]

Thanks for the replies, I got the tranny out today and will do the Clutch, etc, tommorow.  I failed to mention that when the driveshaft went out I was also 2-up and pulling a 375 lb trailer.  After it went, we coasted then pushed it over the bridge into Oregon (very tiring). The bike has a little over 70K on it so I am wondering if it is worth it to put a used driveshaft in it, the rear u-joint seems to be OK but who knows.  From some of my radings I got the impression that the newer driveshaft (94 up, or replacements) are less prone to this issue.  Anyone know ??  I can probably get a 20% discount on a new one but they are about $800, but I would hate to go thru this crap again.  This is my 4th U-Haul with a Beemer (3 were K's).  My sidecar rig has over 200K on it and I have never had a U-jioint failure on it and I pull a 600 LB Kwik-Kamp trailer with it, (but I have put 2 trannys in it that went south)  I guess part of my problem is excess weight (pulling trailers) but I think BMW driveshafts are also to blame because my older (now sold) airhead sidecar rigs had oil bath driveshafts and they never failed.  Who Knows, maybe I should get a Boss Hoss.

[johnny]

this was mine...





dont know... i would look for a low mileage unit...

j o

[Jimbenge]

Great read J.O., I think it was Drakes fault in both cases. cause I was riding in Washington when mine went and Drake lives up there most of the time.  And it looks like he was on your ride when yours went.  What year is your RS ?  I understand the driveshafts are different in 94 and up.  Mine is a 93  Is that true ?  If so I am assuming that you can't mix parts  ??  My rear U-Joints feels OK.  Man I wish I could do mine in 2-1/2 hours.  I have already been at it 2 days (counting building a stand).  Is Special K Larry still doing K bike stuff ?? Does he have any parts ??  if so dou you have his phone number or e-maill address ??  Thanks in advance

[wmax351]

http://brunos.us/ds_1986on_k75_k100.html


Bruno can put in a lube type, heavy duty U joint.

[johnny]

id call josh buck at the parts haus...

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?board=46.0

j o

[Grim]

http://brunos.us/ds_1986on_k75_k100.html


Bruno can put in a lube type, heavy duty U joint.

Now he lists a snap ring joint with a Zerk. I'm a cheap bastard so shipping my shaft and money to Canada bums me out. I know ujoints can be had all day long for under $20. Ive changed MANY on cars and 4x4 trucks and I have a press.

Even at worst I have a really good drive shaft local to me that has in the past swapped joints and balanced shafts for $30 each joint INCLUDING the joint and $30 to balance. Usually same day if you get it in before lunch.

What size ujoint? He lists 300 benz in the link, is that my starting point?

Not having my shaft out what modifications need to be done to make the shaft except a snap ring? 

[wmax351]

http://brunos.us/ds_1986on_k75_k100.html


Bruno can put in a lube type, heavy duty U joint.

Now he lists a snap ring joint with a Zerk. I'm a cheap bastard so shipping my shaft and money to Canada bums me out. I know ujoints can be had all day long for under $20. Ive changed MANY on cars and 4x4 trucks and I have a press.

Even at worst I have a really good drive shaft local to me that has in the past swapped joints and balanced shafts for $30 each joint INCLUDING the joint and $30 to balance. Usually same day if you get it in before lunch.

What size ujoint? He lists 300 benz in the link, is that my starting point?

Not having my shaft out what modifications need to be done to make the shaft except a snap ring?

If it fits, it ships. Not too expensive. I had him do my FD spline.


I have a feeling he has a 300 benz, and started doing them when his went south.

[Motorhobo]

+1 on Bruno -- watch this video.




Chris Harris' videos are a great resource. Watch the k100 Spline Lube series if you're considering doing it yourself...applies to any 2V k bike, with minor differences, I.e. clutch pushrod bearing at the rear end of the transmission is different on K75 than on 2V k100) but for most part it's a step-by-step for any 2v Brick. Chrisnis pretty entertaining, too.

[Jimbenge]

UPDATE, after looking for several weeks I was unable to find a low mileage driveshaft, most were higher mileage than what mine was before it broke. I almost bought a 1996 K1100RS that had 21K (so the odometer said) on it for $1,800 but I have too many bikes and parts already, so I took the Flying Ducks advice and bought a new driveshaft thru Countryside BMW, I never even talked to them I just used the PROMO15 code on their website along with the part number and it went thru (15% discount, No Tax & free shipping). I tried the 18% one also but it did not go. Anyway I think it came from the Fatherland because it took 2-3 weeks to get here. But it was geninuine BMW. I replaced the Clutch nut O-ring (broke when it came out, was very brittle) Also replaced rear seal while in there and it to was a little brittle but was not leaking. The clutch disk had only .007 wear in 70K miles. Everything went back together nicely and while I was waiting for the parts I cleaned up everything like a new bike. All is well now. But if I had it to do over again I might leave it at the scene or part it out because the repair costs (about $700 total), U-Haul $800, and fuel $500 are as much as these bikes are worth. This is the 1st problem I have had with this bike (except people knocking it over) and it pulls the trailer and little woman like a freight train and still gets mid forties on regular gas. I guess I will be keeping it awhile longer. It is as good as any new bike out there in my opinion.  Thanks for your comments and advice...All 4 on the road again..
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