K1100LT 1995 Starter removal

[SteveK]

Hi, I hope someone can help me here. My starter has a problem. Sometimes it just "whirrs" and the engine doesn't turn; sometimes the engine turns a bit, (I've had the crankcase cover off and seen the crankshaft rotate slightly).  When I press the start button all the warning lights and gauges go dead. I've checked the starter relay and it is working fine.

I hope it is the starter button that is the problem but if I have to remove the starter, how do I get to it? The ABS system obstruct entry from the left side and the right side seems a no-go area.

I'd appreciate any help with this as the bike has only done 38,000 miles and I really enjoy its seamless torque and would hate to sell it as "spares or repair".

[Laitch]

Hi, I hope someone can help me here. My starter has a problem.

It appears that the art of self-introduction is a lost one. :giggles

Welcome, Steve!

The whirring condition:
Read this summation of the K-bike starter. If you're in a hurry, scroll down to where it says Sprag in the heading. It should clear up some of the mystery and give you treatment options.

The lights-out condition:
A dirty K-bike starter can cause a lot of problems but first be certain your battery is fully charged and that all ground and cable connections are clean and tight. Measure battery voltage; don't just rely on its age. Your battery might just be discharged for some reason.

[SteveK]

Thanks, Laitch. After six hours in a cold garage and heaps of frustration my self introduction skills deserted me. The articles you kindly put up were very informative and comprehensive.

Anyway, I've ridden and owned many Beemers over the years from the C1, (seriously scary), through GSs, RSs to K series. Most of the variety were in South Africa, perfect riding weather, some great roads but have had my K1100LT since moving to the UK 18 years ago. Out of the six bikes I own it was always my machine of choice for any long distance work, the comfort and flexibility of the engine was unsurpassed.

But back to the starter! The battery is fine, a glass mat type with full voltage, the starter relay works well. I prised the cover off to check the operation and there is continuity between the starter relay and starter motor. The bike starts with a push and runs well and I've run the engine with a high detergent additive.

I've taken the crankshaft cover in an attempt to get some access to the sprag clutch after seeing a youtube video ( )method of freeing up the sprags with carb cleaner, but the video bike's layout is different to mine. However, I did see the crankshaft turn by a few degrees when the starter button was pressed.

What I am going to do next is take out the spark plugs and turn the engine by rotating the back wheel and squirt some carb cleaner around the sprag clutch area, I'll also resort to the very technical method of tapping the clutch to see if that has any effect. I'll also remove and check the starter button for operation.

However, I still don't know how to get at the starter to remove it without taking the ABS modulator out.

I'll keep you posted!

Cheers
Steve

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I don't have time this morning to find the link and post it, but you need to do some searches here and on the interweb on "cleaning K bike ignition switch".  I had the same problems with my bike and it was the switch.  It is not a rare problem.

[Laitch]

I don't have time this morning to find the link and post it, but you need to do some searches here and on the interweb on "cleaning K bike ignition switch".

I had a spare thirty seconds so I found this for you, SteveK. Be patient. Do this simple procedures first. Keep your expectations low and it will all work out.

[kioolt]

I don't have time this morning to find the link and post it, but you need to do some searches here and on the interweb on "cleaning K bike ignition switch".  I had the same problems with my bike and it was the switch.  It is not a rare problem.

How can the ignition switch be the cause of this statement? "Sometimes it just "whirrs" and the engine doesn't turn."  This sounds to me like the stater is turning but the engine isn't.  Ignition switch eliminated as the cause.

[Laitch]

How can the ignition switch be the cause of this statement? "Sometimes it just "whirrs" and the engine doesn't turn."  This sounds to me like the stater is turning but the engine isn't.

Gryph was addressing the "lights out" condition with his reference to the ignition switch as a possibility.

[Laitch]

What I am going to do next is take out the spark plugs and turn the engine by rotating the back wheel and squirt some carb cleaner around the sprag clutch area,
However, I still don't know how to get at the starter to remove it without taking the ABS modulator out.

It can take a couple of tankfuls of riding with a high detergent diesel oil treatment or the Rislone treatment in the crankcase to get things working, Steve—pushing or running being the starting options. Plenty of successful outcomes have occurred with that method.

As for starter removal, you'll probably need to remove the modulator, Steve. The K1 and K100RS manual instructs that the modulators must be removed on those bikes to enable starter removal and I don't think yours is much different. You seem to need a workshop manual from BMW or Clymer to help you out. There's a K1 and K100RS model manual in the Technical Library Card Catalog here you can consult.

[SteveK]

Thanks, Laitch.
Progress so far: I've managed to squirt some carb cleaner into the holes on the sprag housing gaining access by turning the engine over slowly with a lever on the output shaft gear. I then turned the engine over, both forwards and backwards by the rear wheel while in 5th gear with the spark plugs out. Pressed the starter button - the engine turned!
My next step is to use some more carb cleaner and more manual turning. I'll then drain the oil, refill with new and high detergent additive and, after running the engine, drain and refill with new oil.
I'll keep you posted on progress and also try to get some photos which may be of help to any other member with the same problem.

I do have a Clymer manual, they make things sound so easy! The reality is somewhat different!

Cheers
Steve