K11 Rear brake and Gear indicator

[Lbyvik]

I just picked up my 93K11LT

Its GORGUS! 

I have two issues which need solving. 
1) the gear indicator shows only odd numbers and never shows the green neutral light.  It worked fine when I picked it up. However, I've been fiddling with the rear break (2nd issue) and after messing with that the gear indicator issue began.  any ideas?

2) The rear break Locks up after a few miles of use.  WEIRD! and not a little scary. When it locks up it LOCKS UP hard.  I loosen the drain nipple and the pads separate and I can go along fine.
 So far I've dissembled and cleaned the rear caliper and replaced the pads with new.  When I had it apart there was a bunch of little rubbery bits all in it. hmmm?  Next step is to break down the master cylinder.

Meantime to be ride-able, I've just loosed the nipple and leave it open and just don't use the rear break. 
Help?

[robleyd]

Check there is clearance between the push rod from the brake lever and the piston in the master cylinder.

[billday]

On the gear indicator/neutral light, there is a circuit board inside the instrument cluster that controls those functions (and also allows you to start the bike in neutral the with clutch engaged). The LCD gear indicator is integral with this circuit board. They are known to fail. On my bike, I had a working gear indicator but no neutral light and I could only start the bike with the clutch pulled in (disengaged). I installed a replacement circuit board that I bought from Frankenduck and that fixed the problem.

It's p/n 62 11 1 459 238    CONDUCTOR PLATE GEAR INDICATION

On the brake, your problem may be that the orifice through which brake fluid passes between the reservoir and the master cylinder is clogged. You could try flushing and bleeding your brake, or you may need to disassemble and clean your master cylinder.

[JamesInCA]

Does it show an odd number when you're in an even gear?

In other words, when you're in 2, does it display 3? In 4, does it display 5? What does the numerical display show when in neutral?

Or, is the indicator blank in the even gears?

Edit: Aha! This is the page I was looking for: http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/trans-switch.shtml

Your problem is likely either in the cluster, as noted above, or in the electrical harness connection at the back of the cluster, or in the transmission gear position indicator switch, which is detailed at that link. The TGPI is located at the back of the transmission, so you may have whacked something while poking at the rear brake parts.

[Lbyvik]

Thanks for the help in all this guys.....

Re the Rear Brake.  I'll rebuild the master cylinder this week.  I pulled the caliper apart and flushed the whole system with new fluid.  little sand sized bits of rubber came out.  The brakes locked up soon after reassembly.  So I am thinking that you guys are right and there is something in the Master Cylindar going on.

Re the Gear indicator.  Yes, it shows Odd numbers when in even gears. In other words 1st is first; green neutral light doesn't show but 1st is indicated;  then 2nd shows as 3rd.. 3rd is 3rd, 4th shows 5th.  5th is 5th.

I'll try the trouble shoots you guys indicated

thanks.  outside of these niggling things...the bike is a BEAST!  Just increadible

[JamesInCA]

Then, looking at the page linked above, you likely have a problem with the yellow/blue wire at the TGPI switch on the rear of the transmission. The problem could also be farther up the circuit, e.g. in the gauge cluster, the wiring harness, or the connector to the cluster.

I'd pull the connector for the TGPI switch, which you may be able to do without removing much if anything from the bike, and test for continuity as indicated on that page. What you're likely to find is no continuity between the yellow/blue and brown wires in any gear. Per the chart there, you should have continuity in neutral, second, and fourth.

If the wires at the switch connector behave as they should, connect them back up and do the same test at the cluster connector. Pins 2,3,4, same colors. If they work at the cluster connector, the problem is inside the cluster (or with the pin-to-socket contact at the connector itself).

Edit: One other thought. IIRC, that connector is the same kind of four-wire plug as the fuel tank connector, which is located very nearby.  (The fuel tank connector should be clipped to the front-right of the under-seat tray.) If so, the connector itself is notoriously prone to failure, as the pins move around in the squishy rubber that's supposed to hold everything in place. So, if you test for continuity at the connector and it seems fine, try carefully and firmly re-connecting the connector, and then just check your display running through the gears. Re-seating the connector might resolve it.

[mystic red]

Re the Rear Brake.  I'll rebuild the master cylinder this week.  I pulled the caliper apart and flushed the whole system with new fluid.  little sand sized bits of rubber came out.  The brakes locked up soon after reassembly.  So I am thinking that you guys are right and there is something in the Master Cylindar going on.

Could also be the caliper itself. They sell a kit for that, too, and is not too hard to do..