Heated Grips - Lefty works, righty don't

[TaosBrick]

After some chastisement from the Powers That Be, I more appropriately post this issue here:

Left hand toasty, right hand not so much. This is a 1992 straight-up K75. OEM or aftermarket? I am guessing OEM, as the switch has the heated grip icon on it, and there are no signs of add-on-ness, but this is a guess...  someone may have installed aftermarket and done a Really Good Job.

  I will say that I HATE dithering with all things electrical, have hated it all my life. But sometimes ya just gotta... :dunno2:

  Any suggestions as to how to proceed from people who actually LIKE working on electrical crap, or are at least proficient at it will be very welcome. My Haynes manual does not even mention heated grips.

[frankenduck]

If they're OEM then chances are that the connection is broken where the leads connect to the heating elelment at the outer end of the throttle tube.  There really is no good solution to this aside from replacing the OEMs with Symtecs.

[TaosBrick]

So.. Is there a good manual or tech posting somewhere that details the disassembly procedure? I don't necessarily want to break what seems to be an already fragile setup by ham-handedly trying to Figure It Out On My Own.

[TaosBrick]

OK Duck, I admit it. I'm a real whiner when it comes to electrical issues, and often unabashedly seek hand-holding when it comes to them.

I looked up the symtec rig, looks like it comes with it's own controller etc., but am guessing that I can use my original switch and even gussie it up the way that you did on your whip(s). Any pointers will be helpful. Sorry I'm such a weenie.

[frankenduck]

Aftermarket heated grips with an OEM switch      

[Inge K.]

If it`s OEM, easiest.....and probably most expensive...solution would be to buy a new OEM RHS handle
as these is sold as single parts.

Inge K.

[frankenduck]

If it`s OEM, easiest.....and probably most expensive...solution would be to buy a new OEM RHS handle
as these is sold as single parts.

Inge K.

But you still need to pull the tank and know how to get the terminals out of the square white connector.

(And if you do go that route then tie some string to the old wires before pulling them out and then use that string to pull the new ones through the handlebars.)

[Inge K.]

(And if you do go that route then tie some string to the old wires before pulling them out and then use that string to pull the new ones through the handlebars.)

+1 :2thumbup:

But you still need to pull the tank and know how to get the terminals out of the square white connector.

Tank need to be removed anyway, to get acces to the OEM switch connector.............
Picture of the OEM grip connectors, showing the locking tab...attached.

[frankenduck]

Yup. That's a pretty good pic. :2thumbup:

[TaosBrick]

OK, so I'm approaching this at my usual glacial pace, as it always seems there are scores of other things that need attention in my world besides my motorcycles.

Anyhey, after a brief but noble struggle to peel, pull, prize and otherwise remove the OEM grips, I've resigned myself to trashing the OEM's and getting ProGrips.  So - my question is, would there possibly be enuf slack in the OEM wires coming out thru the bar end to attach those wires to the groovy new Symtecs I am also going to order, and thus obviate the need to delve into the dread wiring harness at all?

[frankenduck]

No, you'll need to use the Symtec wires.  Here's why:

The OEM grip low setting uses the same element for the high and low setting.  On the low setting the current runs through a resistive (orange) wire to lower the voltage to the heating elements.  (The extra power is dissipated as heat from the orange wire and they've been known to melt the insulation off, cause a short and, in extreme cases, possibly start a fire.)

The Symtecs have a high and low heating element on each side so they use three wires per side.

[TaosBrick]

Aha. Taking Deep Breath. Diving in - when parts get here...