Getting the bellhousing off/accessing the starter sprag

[frankenduck]

FWIW  attached below is the quick and dirty checklist I used when I replaced my K75RT's bellhousing many moons ago.  You may or may not find it useful.

How to get the tranny off of an ABS II K1100:  http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,1615.0.html

Take the coils and starter off to access the "hidden" of the three alternator mounting bolts.  The starter may be a little stubborn to pull out.  Keep yanking on it, it'll come out.  To seat the starter upon re-assembly, place a block of wood behind it and tap the block of wood with a hammer.

Clutch: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,332.0.html

Before removing the clutch basket, stick a block of wood between the bellhousing and the clutch basket to keep the engine from turning when you undo the bolt that holds the alternator driving dog to the engine. (There's a picture of where to put the block of wood in the clutch thread.)

Once you get the clutch off, inspect the clutch plate splines for the "mountain effect" as described here: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,490.0.html

If those splines are visibly wearing then I'd recommend replacing the clutch plate while you have things open.

Before removing the frame bolt from the upper right of the bellhousing you will need to support the rear of the engine with a jack.   When you remove the frame bolt on the upper right of the bellhousing be sure to note if there's a spacer between the frame and top of the bellhousing and be sure to put that back in upon re-assembly.

From there you need to remove the many little Torx bolts that hold the bellhousing to the rear of the engine.  Some are kind of hidden in recesses so use a flashlight to make sure you find all of them.  These can be sticky so use a good Torx bit and an impact wrench if you have one.  Don't worry if you strip one of the Torx heads.  Just drill the head off and the remaining "stud" will be easy to remove with Vise-Grips once you have the bellhousing off.

Remove the top Torx bolt last and tilt the top of the bellhousing towards you when you remove it so that the pieces of the starter sprag assembly don't fall off.  Lay the bellhousing down and take a picture or make some notes on how the pieces of the sprag assembly go together so you remember how to put them back on.

You'll also probably need to remove the crank cover (I did when I replaced the bellhousing on my K75) because the very rear of it seals to the bellhousing.  When installing it insert all of the valve cover bolts and get them finger tight.  Then torque them in a crosswise pattern working from the outside in.  DO NOT exceed the recommended torque of 8 Nm.  They are "shoulder bolts" and if you overtighten them you can strip the threads in the engine block.