K1100 pressed in clutch noise

[Iliya]

Hello, everyone.
This problem has been bugging me for a long time now. I still can't understand the reason. The clutch makes a terrible rubbing noise when you push it in. It started when oil from the gearbox got in there.
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[Iliya]

https://disk.yandex.ru/i/xK8xENfT4mVQEA

Video.

It seems to me that the clutch is not pressed all the way. when I tightened the bolt from the bottom to the end, the sound disappeared, but then the neutral was always

[The Mighty Gryphon]

How long have you owned this bike?  Have the clutch splines ever been lubed? 

Are any of the splines worn?  Engine output shaft, and the transmission input shaft as well as the clutch parts that engage those shafts.

Any looseness in the splines might allow the parts to rattle when the clutch is disengaged and not transferring power.  When you tightened the adjusting screw you might have pushed the clutch parts so far apart that they could not contact each other when they were moving.

Not sure how the transmission oil could have started the noise problem.  Possibly glaze on the friction disc could make it act funny, but I suspect the splines.

[Laitch]

The push rod hole in your moto's clutch diaphragm spring seems to have lost its reinforcement and has become deformed. Notice how its center hole's edge is rolled. The narrow red arrows on the two photos show the difference in space between the rivets and the hole on each of the springs. Could this condition be causing the failure of the clutch to completely engage or disengage and the noise is made by the slipping clutch disc?  think  Turn the disc over and look at is underside. Does it have reinforcement like the disc has in the bottom photo (at green arrow)?

[frankenduck]

That edge is not rolled. Those three center rivets hold in a center collar on the other side of the diaphragm spring. It is a separate piece of metal.

[Laitch]

That edge is not rolled. Those three center rivets hold in a center collar on the other side of the diaphragm spring. It is a separate piece of metal.

Your photo is of the reverse side of the new one, same as I posted. I'm commenting on the hole in the front of the old one in the photo the OP posted. That hole looks deformed to me. Compare it with the new one. I'm asking the owner what the reverse of that spring looks like.

Buenas noches.

[frankenduck]

Your photo is of the reverse side of the new one, same as I posted. I'm commenting on the hole in the front of the old one in the photo the OP posted. That hole looks deformed to me. Compare it with the new one. I'm asking the owner what the reverse of that spring looks like.

Buenas noches.

I am just trying to counter Internet "misinformation" when you claim that the edge is rolled. It is not.

It I were a twitter mod then I would ban you and report you to the FBI as a spreader of Russian botness. 

[Iliya]

I have owned it for 5 years now. All slots appear to be in excellent condition. for the umpteenth time I disassemble the clutch and each time I apply more and more lubricant.
never removed only the clutch housing.

[Iliya]

I’ve already start thinking that this noise is from gearbox, but why it starts with pressing in the clutch 🤦🏽‍♀️

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Your splines look good, it's obvious you have maintained them well. 

Can you detect any free play or looseness in the shafts on the engine and transmission?  It is possible that a bearing is bad in the engine or transmission.

Is there a lot of free play in the shifter that results in needing a longer stroke to change gears?  That could indicate a loose grub screw in the shift mechanism that might allow the forks and sliding gears in the transmission to rattle.

As far as your question, when the clutch is engaged it transmits rotation and torque to the internals of the transmission, loading the gears and internal parts.  This helps to reduce the rattle.

As a test, with the engine running and the bike on the center stand, put the transmission into 4th or 5th gear and spin the rear wheel up to 40 or 50 km/hr.  Quickly shut off the throttle and see if you can hear the rattle.  Doing this test will unload the forward loading on the transmission internals.  If it rattles during this test, it might mean that there is a bad bearing or a loose part in the transmission.

[Laitch]

I am just trying to counter Internet "misinformation" when you claim that the edge is rolled. It is not.

I didn't claim anything; I indicated it appeared to me as if it were deformed and was looking for confirmation. Before you write the final draft your report as a minion of the shadow government, graduate from your ESL class or at least invest in Grammarly . 

[frankenduck]

It started when oil from the gearbox got in there.

There's a seal at the rear of the clutch pushrod. If that fails then gear oil can creep up the pushrod into the clutch area. I had this happen on one of my K1100s.

[Iliya]

Your splines look good, it's obvious you have maintained them well. 

Can you detect any free play or looseness in the shafts on the engine and transmission?  It is possible that a bearing is bad in the engine or transmission.

How detect free play of engine? Shake clutch housing?
Free play on the inner shaft in transmission does not seem to be observed. bearings also look normal.

Is there a lot of free play in the shifter that results in needing a longer stroke to change gears?  That could indicate a loose grub screw in the shift mechanism that might allow the forks and sliding gears in the transmission to rattle.

do you mean the gear shifter? yes, to switch the speed, the foot must be raised high enough, not like before.

And I don’t remember doing this step when assembling the gearbox after changing seals.

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[The Mighty Gryphon]

How detect free play of engine? Shake clutch housing?
Free play on the inner shaft in transmission does not seem to be observed. bearings also look normal.do you mean the gear shifter? yes, to switch the speed, the foot must be raised high enough, not like before.

There should be no side-to-side free play in the clutch on the engine output shaft. 

The shift lever should not have any looseness.  Any free play in the shifter is probably the result of a loose grub screw.  I don't know about the K1100's, but my 1994 K75RT had a very loose grub screw when I bought it and had more than 3cm of vertical free play in the shifter.  I had to be very careful to avoid missed shifts.  BMW should have put some blue LocTite on that screw at the factory.

As far as your illustration and pressing when installing the transmission cover, it has been over 8 years since I had my transmission apart and can't recall if I had to do that.