Failed snip of the 7th leg....

[Quzzy]

My K100 had working led indicators at midday.
It has resistors as the previous owner (who I built the bike for and later purchased it) didnt want me to go into the BM relay.
So I ripped the resistors out and reconnected the led indicators.
Opened up the relay and cut the branch to leg 7 with a scalpel.
Happy with the new tidy look under the seat, I plugged the relay back in....NADA!

It did click a couple of times when I pressed the ind switch but no more.
If I tap the end of the solenoids with the cover off, the indicators light up respectivly.
Soooo, power is reaching the unit, the connections outward to the indicators are sound.
Its as if the solenoids are not being energised.....

Ive tried re bridging the cut leg but its a bit haphazard, and seems to make no difference.

Ideas please

[Quzzy]

Today I did more digging on the interweb and here and can state...
There IS continuity at the relay plug when the switches are pressed (earth)
 Both the red:white and the Green brown are supplying 12v at the plug.

So the required power is reaching the unit (pins tested on flasher board)
The earthing via the switches is working (pins tested)
If I tap the solenoids make/break the the indicators flash, therefore wiring to them is good.

For some reason the solenoids are just not energising...
Any ideas in light of this?
Ta

[daveson]

How did you bridge the cut,  solder or wire? Probably either way is a long shot. Might you have done damage when you ripped the resistors out?

[Quzzy]

With this mod theres no bridging, you either just cut the 7th leg of a chip or cut through the connection on the circuit board going to it.
The resistors are inline on the wires going to the rear indicators https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000365249446.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&&albagn=888888&albcp=6459788344&albag=76234907246&trgt=743612850874&crea=fr4000365249446&netw=u&device=c&albpg=743612850874&albpd=fr4000365249446&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyur0BRDcARIsAEt86ICDZ1jMF0EgrGBc5lfG4DMDBMVbV6p7OSKwE74YLxczTXq6g2m2NvUaAv9_EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Anyhoo, I think I may have disturbed a previous dodgy repair to the circuit board, and in trying to resolder it I have buggered up the board, so a new (used) is on order? About 70 euros. When this arrives I will connect and see if all works even with hyperflash, then decide whether to open the unit and cut again, or suffer reinstating the resistors that worked happily for 3 years!

Thanks for the input
Q

[johnny]

greetings...

i pinged rbm... he is the man in the know...

j o

[Quzzy]

^ ^ thanks

[rbm]

Can you please post pictures of the area where you cut the circuit board, and pictures of your repair?  The module might still be salvageable but it is hard to evaluate the damage unless we get a visual.

[Quzzy]

IMG_20200419_100636.jpg (33.17 kB . 768x432 - viewed 485 times)

Thanks for taking the time to reply, sorry for the poor quality pic (only the "selfie" camera on my phone works)
I dont know if the brown bridging wire is factory but it was there when I opened it up.
The pins adjacent had become desoldered from the board (ie the pins still had the cone of solder attached but that had lifted from the board)

I fluxed the area but the solder didnt seem to take and then the green plastic melted and it all went tits up.

Just to let you know Im good with wiring and happily make looms for my hotrods and bikes, but this electronic sorcery is
 beyond me.

[Quzzy]

IMG_20200419_100620.jpg (20.09 kB . 324x576 - viewed 449 times)

[Quzzy]

Ive tried again but the camera is unable to focus at this distance, will try to get a buddy to pop round and take a pic later, but maybe you get the drift?

[rbm]

It's really hard to make an accurate assessment with the poorly focused photos you've provided. Sorry.

I circled the area of the circuit card in RED that needed to be modified to stop the hyperflashing.  I can see what might be knife marks as a white smudge within the red circle. I don't see any evidence that you've tried to rebridge that area with a jumper.

The YELLOW circled area is not OEM.  It looks like a previous repair, and a very bad repair at that. It looks to me that this board suffered an electrical overload at some point, which burnt a trace of the PCB and the person tried to repair it. You mentioned that you did some rework in that area of the board, which may have worsened the problem.  By disturbing that repair trying to reflow the existing solder, you might have caused an open circuit.  The best course is to completely remove the botched repair and redo it from scratch using new wire and solder.  You'll need to know how the PCB should look so that you can reconnect the components properly.  this link -- https://servimg.com/view/19696315/6# -- is a picture of the underside of the board clearly showing the PCB traces.


A skilled electronics person might be able to reverse that damage and get the board working again. Given your self-proclaimed inexperience with circuit card repair, it might be better to abandon this card and get a replacement module.  Besides with the COVID-19 pandemic, you won't be able to get the help you need most likely.

[Quzzy]

Again sorry for the pics.
All your assumptions are correct. I only tried to rebridge the cut trace with a screwdriver to do a test, before I noticed the loose components beside the previous bodge.
I agree its just as well Ive ordered another and feel a little less aggrieved by the expense knowing it had been "under the knife" before!

I have to decide now whether to open up the replacement for amputation or reinstate the inline resistors?

Is the "dead one any use to you for spares? Happy to post it.
Thanks
Q