K75S Fairing Removal/Instrument Cluster Access (w/ pictures)

[frankenduck]

Photos by Johnny, work by frankenduck.

The K75S fairing can be a bit of a puzzle if you've never played with it before.  Instead of posting the pictures in this thread, I've attached a printable PDF file so you can print that and take it out to the garage with you.

[beemuker]

the pdf file seems to have unattached itself. My fairing is rubbing the tank on the left side and I'd like to remove it, or at least loosen it so I can put something between the fairing and the tank or re position whatever was in there to start with.

[Laitch]

the pdf file seems to have unattached itself.

Check out this link.

[beemuker]

thanks

[Chaos]

The fairing loosening up has been a chronic problem with mine.  When it was only a year old one of the 10mm bolts holding the side pieces to the center bracket fell out, making it wobbly to say the least. Now whenever I have part of it off for maintenance I double check all the fasteners.

[Martin]

I have placed heavy vinyl tape to run along the line of where the fairing hits the tank. I also fitted "U" shaped rubber edging along the edge of the fairing. This did require a bit of trimming of the non exposed rubber edging. Both modifications can be done by just sliding the tank back.
Regards Martin.

[beemuker]

I have placed heavy vinyl tape to run along the line of where the fairing hits the tank. I also fitted "U" shaped rubber edging along the edge of the fairing. This did require a bit of trimming of the non exposed rubber edging. Both modifications can be done by just sliding the tank back.
Regards Martin.

thanks, I didn't think of that, but this faring seems to move around more than my other one[I think]. so maybe checking the fasteners is a good idea, or do they all do that?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I have your bike's sister.  Unless everything is tight the fairing will wave around wildly on the slightest bump.  Even with everything tight it will move around a bit.  The problem seems to be that there is a lot of weight cantilevered out front, what with the headlight and the heavy panels, and the support isn't all that rigid, especially to side to side movement.

[Martin]

Mine is pretty tight, however other inmates have experienced the fairing bolts loosening off. The addition of low strength thread locking compound might also help.
Regards Martin.

[Chaos]

also, there are lots of different screws and over the years they tend to get replaced with improper substitutes that may not hold.  I've seen fairings put back together with drywall screws :yow

[alexg]

Hi:
The 4 screws that hold the main (fiber reinforced ABS) support bracket to the head tube are different. The two on the top have a cone tip, to dig into and stop the fluidblock from turning. They need to be the exact length, or you'll crush the block. They are very expensive, but if you do not have any, better buy them from the stealer. The two on the bottom are standard M6 machine screws. Use BLUE Locktite on all four.


The overall stiffness of the setup depends on ALL the screws (M6, M5, sheet metal, etc) being in place. The MaxMotorcycle fiche is a good resource, as well as the service manual on this site. After I restored mine to OEM setup screws, I can say that the only thing that moves over bumps now is the instrument cluster, as it should, but not the fairing.


Regarding the rubbing against the tank, correct set up the support bracket to the head tube is important; I had to try a couple of times at different locations until I got a more or less balanced setup left to right. Also, do not forget the two M5 screws to attach the black W top trim piece to the sides. They were missing on my bike, which caused the thing to rub on the tank.


Hope this helps.

[beemuker]

Update. Finally got around to tightening up the fairing. I discovered that one of the top cone tipped screws was missing and the other was really worn. Until I can get the proper ones I replaced them with shorter screws I had left over from replacing the seat. The screws that attach the seat hardware are the same thread and size, only shorter.
Anyone have a good source for those cone tipped screws?


are these the screws I need?
from Max

07

46 51 1 457 379 SCREW - 6X19

[alexg]

I bought them from the BMW store. They were expensive, but inserting a screw that is too long will split the fluid block, and one that is too short, will keep it loose. If you can take good measurements from the existing bolt, and replicate it with a hardware store bolt, go ahead. Bear in mind that it is a class 10 bolt, and not a standard 8.8 (home depot quality)

[beemuker]

I bought them from the BMW store. They were expensive, but inserting a screw that is too long will split the fluid block, and one that is too short, will keep it loose. If you can take good measurements from the existing bolt, and replicate it with a hardware store bolt, go ahead. Bear in mind that it is a class 10 bolt, and not a standard 8.8 (home depot quality)

do you have a part # .  when looking at the fishe I don't know which ones they are.

[alexg]

There you have it.

[beemuker]

thanks. with shipping EACH screw cost almost $9 [with washer .50] bit the bullet and bought them. probably could have made one from a bolt, but I don't want to strip anything.

[beemuker]

finally got the "special cone tipped " screws, and they did not help the fairing movement one bit. It seems that the 2 top screws don't really anchor the fairing, only the bottom 2?

[alexg]

There are four screws that fasten the reinforced plastic fairing bracket (PN 46 63 1 455 269, also in the picture attached). The two on the top also lock the fluid block in place. When I disassembled mine, I discovered that the bracket had a crack on one of the top holes, allowing extra movement of the fairing. Bought the new part from the stealer.

[beemuker]

thanks Alex, maybe mines cracked too

[Abandoned Track]

Were you able to get your fairing stabilized? I recently had my K75S all apart to get a repaint and it took a few trials and errors to finally get the fairing back to where it was not moving when going over bumps in the road. It now seems as stable as when I first bought the bike over 20 years ago.

The top 2 conetip screws that pinch against the fluidblock in the steering head have to also be seated enough to hold the reinforced plastic fairing bracket tight against the steering head. I also discovered that the reinforced plastic fairing bracket can be slightly misaligned over the bolt holes in the steering head. I started over by removing everything that was attached to the reinforced plastic fairing bracket (PN 46 63 1 455 269, as mentioned in an earlier post) so that I could get it aligned with it's bolt holes before tightening the 4 bolts.

When reassembling the front fairing pieces, I get the best fit by first putting all bolts and screws in loose, then moderate tightening the area around the headlight, then the radiator area, and then the rear of the 2 large side pieces of the fairing. Kind of working from the center to the rear. After moderate tightening the fasteners inspect the fit, and if everything looks like it is fitting Ok, final tighten from front to back. Windshield is last of course.

(I really think I could come up with an exact sequence with more time)

[beemuker]

yes, it is fine now, and the steering is better too.