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81
≈100,000 miles in my Brick so far. Although I have read a couple of threads about transmission cover seals needing replacement, I've only read one concerning replacement of the pushrod seal. Regardless, they're all doable when necessary.
82
Thanks Laitch, Bike was laid up for 16 years so a bit of TLC in order... hopefully, Boot and Cable will tell me whether any seals need doing...

In your experience how long do the Gearbox seals last?
83
Greasing the barrels at the end of the cables helps smooth the action and inhibit cable breakage. Greasing the pivot pin of the clutch release arm also helps the hand lever action. The clutch release arm area can be a gritty environment.
84
As long as the gear case isn't overfilled with fluid and the clutch is adjusted strictly by the book, that's the least complicated method to determine if more work is necessary.

Thanks Laitch, Clutch cable is a bit scratchy so going to treat it to a new cable from Venhill, then adjust as per guidance, remember that process from previous K75.
I'll then fit the new Boot and see how I go on and if it stops... will report back when complete, parts enroute.

40 years seems a decent period to have a new Clutch Cable... Thanks for the Maintenance Pics...
85
As long as the gear case isn't overfilled with fluid and the clutch is adjusted strictly by the book, that's the least complicated method to determine if more work is necessary.


86
Thanks Laitch, I've ordered a new Boot seal as it fell to bits, per pictures...

Don't believe Gearbox or Drive have ever been off... planning to replace Boot and re-adjust Clutch play, according to that bulletin then, that would solve it... no seals involved?
87
It's unlikely the clutch rod seal is leaking. Replacing it in a K75 would require removing the transmission to extract the clutch rod for access to the seal.

The common reason for the boot rip is allowing the swing arm to drop its full length of travel when removing the rear drive. Doing that allows the boot to be hyper-extended then rip in its weakest area. That is what might have happened in your case.

The common reason for transmission oil to leak from a boot that isn't ripped is given below.
88
The Motobrick Workshop / K75 Gearbox Drip at Boot - Gearbox out or not? 49k miles
« Last post by bluebossa on April 27, 2026, 04:39:06 AM »
Howdy again,

Just purchased a new to me K75C with 49k miles, good original condition Bike that works great...
Couple of pics attached... Original faded Paint, everything intact from 1986.

Drove it home from London to Derby circa 150 miles, not an issue, though its been off the road according to MOT History from 2010 to 2026 - 16 years.
Amazing testament to the way these Bikes keep going. I love em.

Anyhow, noticed a small pool of Gearbox Oil underneath the back end... Clear Gearbox Oil
Just took a couple of shots and been researching seals...

Looks like it was inside the Rubber Boot, which has perished and needs replacing... Do I need to replace the Clutch Pushrod Oil Seal alone, will that fix it?.
Can I get away without taking the Gearbox off?

Thanks in advance...
89
Welcome To Motobrick.Com / Re: New member from Indy
« Last post by funkspieler on April 26, 2026, 10:12:21 PM »
Would love to hear how this upgrade goes and how it affects your ride.  Mine came with a new Progressive rear shock and I feel like it is stiff in back and soggy in front with stock springs.  I was going to start by just putting in a heavier fork oil, but the cartridge emulators and springs did wonders for my old Moto Guzzi. 
90
The Motobrick Workshop / weird rear brake bleeding issue
« Last post by argv on April 26, 2026, 12:03:47 AM »
My rear brake master cylinder was leaking (though there was plenty braking power), so I rebuilt it with a Magura 12mm rebuild kit. All went well until I began to bleed it.

I started to bleed from the ABS 2 bleeder screw, with clear piping and one-way bleeder valve. But about 900cc DOT4 fluid later, there was still bubbles coming out. Strangest thing was, if I bleed from the rear caliper bleeder, no bubble no matter how much I tried. I started to suspect that ABS 2 bleeder screw, but it was just a screw and there was no rubber seal in there right? What could go wrong with a screw? I also made sure I didn't open that bleeder screw too much.

Good news is my rear brake master cylinder is no longer leaking, but now I have very little rear braking. There must be some voodoo I have missed? :miss
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