I had the 181 and Givi 30L Dolmiti case on my Brick. I used it for clothes and occasionally groceries—not much additional weight.

When you get the Givi rack, it is essential that the rack's mounting feet are flat on the cowl when directly over each hole. My Brick's cowl had factory screw guide tubes molded onto the cowl's interior ceiling; some Brick cowls don't have them. If there is lateral tension on the rack legs because you need to flex them to line up when the rack is installed on the rear cowl, the cowl is likely crack apart at or near one or more holes from the stress, severely damaging the cowl at sometime during travel, especially on gravel roads or pavement with pot holes. That happened to me. The screws should screw smoothly into all the feet with no lateral tension on the rack.
The upside of the destruction of a cowl is there are plenty more out there on eBay to take its place. The paint on the one I found even matched. I wept with joy.
Givi's Monokey is a convenient system on a Brick until the damage happens. I still have the rack and case. This winter, I will attempt to patiently adjust those legs with heat and hammering so there is zero lateral tension on them during bolt up, then I'll road test it. I had a great time with the first experience for a couple hundred miles. 
Interested prospective buyers of my Givi case and rack should ping me in summer if I haven't update by then.   

I had a problem that sounds identical to your description, I like your description, I'm not too good at verbs or English as you will see, because, prior to today, I described it as plastic farts. The bikes I've had in the past that had gaiters on the forks, had small tubes for air to escape when the forks were compressed. One bike had gaiters that didn't have that feature. They were clamped to the forks with plastic zip ties which did the job, but after a while they loosened up. Still good enough for small bumps, the gaiters just expanded, but on bigger bumps the air escaped against the resistance of the zip ties.

The way I discovered the problem was with the front brakes applied to the stationary bike and pushing down on the handlebar. I solved the problem by poking a small hole at the rear of the gaiters.

You could get lucky having a helper with good ears, this might help to pinpoint the location of the noise. Probably not good to ask a helper who looks something like this:


17929880294686237526605967156083.jpg (16.45 kB . 460x276 - viewed 89 times)

I did the same thing a few months ago. I removed the fan for a thorough cleaning, followed by a 12V spin test. Nothing about the removal process stands out in my mind as being particularly difficult.

At the time, Samco hoses were installed, but the side rubber shock mounts arrived late. Replacing those was a huge PITA with the radiator still in place after servicing the fan. I replaced all the rubber components. The thermostat was replaced after a thorough cleaning and flush. I also replaced the radiator cap, since mine was from 1987; that prompted me to address the cooling system in its entirety.

I use Engine Ice. So, as I said, it was a straightforward and easy job. Fender removal is simple. Keep in mind that it may have been easier for me because I like removing the fairing pieces. With the Samco upgrade from the original hoses, removing them was necessary.Just get into the process once you’ve ordered and gathered all the parts for a one-and-done job, rather than the two-part process I went through. Oh yeah, I also cleaned the reservoir and added the Samco overflow hose, trimmed to size.

Today I changed the cheeze whizz gears from mu odometer for new ones.


It is quite a daunting task but actually, if you go slowly and take your time it is not hard.


I got the new gears from odometergears.com


I also found a very useful video to walk me through it


https://www.minitools.com/bmw-k1-k75-k100-k1100-lt-k1100-rs-odometer-repair/#video


As well as the instructions on odometergear.com


https://www.odometergears.com/documentation/BMW_Motorcycle_MotoMeter_Odometer_Gear_Replacement-.pdf


It works now! Fingers crossed it keeps doing so.


Here is a photo of the broken gear...