MOTOBRICK.COM
MOTOBRICK.COM => Welcome To Motobrick.Com => Topic started by: Hilltopper46 on April 29, 2017, 01:16:27 PM
-
Hi;
I'm a new forum member - I just purchased a 1995 K1100LT with 80K+ miles on the odometer. It has some issues.
I'm hoping to attach at least a couple pictures to this post - getting them from the phone to the post might be a challenge. My regular laptop is broken at the moment and I am working from a desktop machine that is 10 years old.
So the obvious things are:
- the battery is flat
- the pedal for the rear brake goes all the way down, there is no fluid in the reservoir
- there is a funky leak of some sticky stuff on the left side of the bike on the muffler - is this the brake fluid?
- the front tire is bald
One thing I like already - this thing is a lot easier to "undress" than the GoldWings I used to ride!
I think the PO "stored" it outside for a couple years. I'm not sure what the history is - he had 3 Harleys in his garage plus this beast. I made him an offer based on his supplying a clear title for it. He had moved from another state and lost the title in the process. He was able to do this so I picked the bike up yesterday.
One other question - the PO says the bike goes through rear brake pads pretty quickly, about 1 a year. Is that normal, or is there something I can look for to remedy the situation. It looks like it could stand to have the rear rotor replaced.
And another question - the saddlebags have sort of a haze on the top of them - what's the best product to clean that up?
I'm sure there will be a lot more questions as I get more familiar with the bike.
-
What Johnny said!
If it was mine I would head out to the Hardley Fergusen dealer and get me some S-100 motorcycle cleaner. That stuff is like detailer in a bottle. Before I did anything I'd pull the tank, seat and the battery and clean everything up with the S-100. A sponge and a couple of old paint brushes are great to loosen dirt in all those nooks and crannies. When you're done, all the other jobs will be like working on a new bike.
You also want to get a can of DeOxit electrical cleaner and start a program of shooting a bit of it into every electrical connection you can get to. These old motobricks have a lot of electricity running around in them, and you don't want it not getting to where it needs to be.
Sounds like you might have a bad rear master cylinder. If it is, the good news is that some of the inmates here have found a $6 replacement from China that takes an afternoon to retrofit and works at least as good as, if not better than, the original.
The rear pad thing sounds like a sticky caliper that will probably require a tear down and clean up.
If Johnny's Pledge on the tragkorbs doesn't work, an option is to hit them with a coat of flat black followed by DupliColor Matte Clearcoat for wheels, followed by a very light wet sand with 1200 grit. I have done several sets with it, and it's as close to the original finish as you can get. Makes them easier to clean as well.
From the pictures, it looks like you might have gotten a pretty nice deal on a real mile muncher.
-
Welcome to the asylum from the land of OZ. Link for replacement M/Cyl http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9364.0.html . Surf City make a product called Black Max it's good on plastic restoration. On old Bricks Deoxit will be your best friend.
Regards Martin.
-
Welcome, Hilltopper46!
Your new possession is dressed out in the highly desirable plum motif, sought by fruitarians worldwide. :clap:
-
Welcome, Hilltopper46!
Your new possession is dressed out in the highly desirable plum motif, sought by fruitarians worldwide. :clap:
That's nice to know - I've already taken a hard time from one of my friends (Harly rider) over the color. I previously rode an illusion blue GoldWing, sold in 2011.
-
Hey hilltopper,
With that handle I thought perhaps you were in my neighborhood, Platteville high motto I believe is hillsman or hilltoppers, I forget.
Im over west of Dodgeville. Welcome.
-
Hey hilltopper,
With that handle I thought perhaps you were in my neighborhood, Platteville high motto I believe is hillsman or hilltoppers, I forget.
Im over west of Dodgeville. Welcome.
Oddly enough, that part of the country influenced this handle - I've used it for years on different forums. The hills in western Wisconsin are some of my favorite riding areas, so when selecting a handle, I tried Hilltopper, which was taken, so after trying Hilltopper1, and 2, etc, I settled on my age which was 46. I'll be 64 this summer, so I guess it's been my handle for 18 years....
I live at East Troy.
-
With that handle ...
I see natural-edged black walnut, turned green ... :yes
-
I see natural-edged black walnut, turned green. :yes
:clap: :clap:
Cut down in September 2015. You can see all my stuff at Opa's Pens. (http://opaspens.com)
(if this is against forum rules - admin may delete with no hard feelings)
-
:clap: :clap:
Ya, done a few of those ...
This one is black cherry crotch, yard tree, about 22" diameter ...
-
...
-
Ya, done a few of those ...
This one is black cherry crotch, yard tree, about 22" diameter ...
:clap: :clap: :2thumbup: :2thumbup:
-
Welcome to the Knut haus :bmwsmile (also known as the asylum)! What implement manufacturer did you work for? Several of my machines came from your area...
-
Welcome to the Knut haus :bmwsmile (also known as the asylum)! What implement manufacturer did you work for? Several of my machines came from your area...
I worked for J. I Case from 1973, through the iterations of Case IH and Case New Holland until 2015. Started as a mechanic in a company store in Indianola IA.
-
Started as a mechanic in a company store in Indianola IA.
:2thumbup: You will get along fine with the bike. Everything is straightforward/intuitive. If you cannot solve your questions, and search yields no adequate answers (Laitch just posted on a fairly reliable method), the forum will help...you just gotta be specific, detail your actions up to the point of question, and include relevant pictures! That K1100 is about as bulletproof as a machine can be :bmwsmile . On the equipment, we have a Meyers spreader and some Badger forage equipment. Good luck
-
So... the funky looking leak (see the picture above) is shock absorber oil from a remote reservoir that is sitting above the ABS unit. Thinking this isn't stock....
-
Not stock...lots of options there depending on brand (rebuildable, etc.)
-
And the saga continues....
The rear brake bled out and has stayed up with no leakage over night. :2thumbup: I put an Odyssey battery in it and after several seconds of cranking, it fired up. :2thumbup:
I buttoned it up, got it down off the center stand and rode it to the end of the street and back, about 3/4 mile. :yow Now the starter won't engage. You can hear it spinning, but the engine isn't turning over.
Where do I hit it with the hammer and how hard? :hehehe
-
sprag clutch is stuck. Happens with old K's, unfortunately. Several threads here on how to deal with it. It's a bear to get to but probably just needs some oil.
-
sometimes changing to Mobil One or adding a can or Rinsoline or some such gum-solvent can cure the problem, best bet is preventive maintenance, regular oil changes. Sounds drastic but if it happened to me I'd drill a hole in the housing where the sprag clutch is located and lube it directly.
-
You can hear it spinning, but the engine isn't turning over. Where do I hit it with the hammer and how hard? :hehehe
Looks like you've successfully made the transition from New Member Introduction to Victim's Statement, Hilltopper46. :giggles Future challenges should be posted in the Workshop Section.
As far as this one goes, Chaos is on it except for the hole drilling. I think that is premature in your case.
Here is a description of the sprag assembly (http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/kstartersprag.htm). Scroll down to What are the SYMPTOMS and simplest fix . . . and If things are more than just beginning . . . to find solutions.
So do what is recommended at the link. Before you reach the hole drilling stage—which I think should be last resort—the sprag clutch also can be lubed by removing the crankcase cover to get access for lubrication.
There is a video in this post (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=5614.0) to use for comparison with your situation.
-
Looks like you've successfully made the transition from New Member Introduction to Victim's Statement, Hilltopper46. :giggles Future challenges should be posted in the Workshop Section.
...successfully made the transition... best line I've heard for a while. I'll make sure to move to the proper forum for future challenges.
As far as this one goes, Chaos is on it except for the hole drilling. I think that is premature in your case.
Here is a description of the sprag assembly (http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/kstartersprag.htm). Scroll down to What are the SYMPTOMS and simplest fix . . . and If things are more than just beginning . . . to find solutions.
So do what is recommended at the link. Before you reach the hole drilling stage—which I think should be last resort—the sprag clutch also can be lubed by removing the crankcase cover to get access for lubrication.
There is a video in this post (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=5614.0) to use for comparison with your situation.
I'd found the bit about drilling the hole through searching. What ever I decide to do, it will give me something to do until the front tire arrives.
It sure felt good to get back on a bike, even though it didn't last very long.
-
Welcome Hilltopper!
You've come to the right place for K-Bike questions and issues.
I grew up in Monroe WI and have made a couple of trips back with my Brick to include the MOA Rally in St. Paul and hope to make it back again this year. It's fun to follow the "alphabet" roads through the state.
My '93 K75S has been my commuter mule and my touring bike for a number of years the smoothness and comfort are unbeatable. As others have said, it is repairable by the home mechanic and a good machine.
-
Chaos is on it except for the hole drilling. I think that is premature
Of course it is! But I have power tools aching to pounce on my K :eek:
-
Drill baby, Drill :hehehe
-
Welcome, Hilltopper! That's a fine looking brick ya got there. I'm sure she'll clean up nicely.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Things are looking up!
I ordered a front tire Wednesday, it came Thursday - I ordered the wrong size :dunno2: so I sent it back today and ordered the correct size - should be here next week.
I went to town and bought 4 quarts of Mobil 1 (5w30?). NAPA has a really good sale on Mobil 1 right now, under $6/qt. BUT, they didn't have an oil filter. I finally tracked down an oil filter at Car Quest and a Lisle 3/8 drive wrench to fit it. The wrench is metal and fits up in the sump with no modification required. The oil filter has a plastic sticker on it that peeled off in one nice piece after I picked at it for a minute. The Lisle wrench even fit the old (FullFlow?) filter on the bike.
I put 3 quarts of Mobil 1 in it and a can of SeaFoam.
I rolled the bike down a little hill here on the yard, it didn't start. BUT, it coughed a couple times, and once after it coughed I heard a little RRRRRrrrrrrr.... as it came to a stop, so I hit the starter button and it took off. It has started every time since then.
I rode it 10 miles. :mm When I first started it the other day the bike smoked pretty badly. I scraped a bunch of dried up shock oil off the exhaust system and after the oil change, it doesn't smoke at all. Life is good.
Thanks to all who encouraged and offered advice.
-
I went to town and bought 4 quarts of Mobil 1 (5w30?)
Congratulations. Your bike should have oil it it with a wider heat range than that once you're convinced the starter is working reliably, but you might already realize that.
-
I hope you aren't planning on leaving that SeaFoam in the engine for more than 100 miles. It has no lubrication qualities and thins out your already thin 5W30.
Do another oil and filter change to remove all the dirt the SeaFoam flushed out. I would recommend going with Rotella T6 full synthetic 15W40. This is a heavy duty oil designed for diesel truck engines that go a million miles between rebuilds. It has a stronger detergent package and will help keep the sprag cleaner. Walmart has it in gallon jugs for $21 and change.
-
[size=0px]Your bike should have oil it it with a wider heat range than that once you're convinced the starter is working reliably, but you might already realize that.[/size]
[/size][size=0px]It never hurts to be reminded.[/size][size=0px]
[/size][size=0px]I hope you aren't planning on leaving that SeaFoam in the engine for more than 100 miles. It has no lubrication qualities and thins out your already thin 5W30.
Do another oil and filter change to remove all the dirt the SeaFoam flushed out. I would recommend going with Rotella T6 full synthetic 15W40. This is a heavy duty oil designed for diesel truck engines that go a million miles between rebuilds. It has a stronger detergent package and will help keep the sprag cleaner. Walmart has it in gallon jugs for $21 and change.
Thanks - I bought two of the filters and planned change again at well under 100 miles. I'll look into the Rotella T6.
-
ok hilltopper I lost track of this thread... are you out there munching miles like a dutiful member of this here chee asylum...
Hows that bike doing?
-
ok hilltopper I lost track of this thread... are you out there munching miles like a dutiful member of this here chee asylum...
Hows that bike doing?
Thanks for asking.
This thread details the biggest challenge I had with it: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9992.0.html
I'm riding it periodically - beginning to run it for errands and trips to church, etc. The bike is running solid - I believe it is improving a little with each tank of gas. The last tank I ran through it I measured mileage and it came in around 40 MPG, maybe even a little better as I think the tank was fuller on the second fill.
I really like the way it handles and rides. The biggest personal issue I have with it is my throttle hand tends to go numb after a while. I know there are foam grip covers out there - I think I will try adding them sometime in the future.
-
You may have it be developing carpul tunnel like me!
Sent from my A573VC using Tapatalk
-
The biggest personal issue I have with it is my throttle hand tends to go numb after a while.
Rotating the bar downward by a small increment might help with that, too.
-
You could try fitting cruise control or a throttle lock. Gryph has a post on cruise control I believe.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7822.msg56073.html#msg56073
Regards Martin.