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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: bobmusick on April 27, 2017, 07:38:27 PM
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Hey y'all. So I haven't really posted here much but here I am so hello!
1990 K100LT for reference.
But anyways I was just driving along in 5th gear and suddenly this awesome grinding noise starts coming from under me, the gear number display says 3rd and 5th randomly then I pull in the clutch to try just something and nothing seemed to work. Every gear made the noise and even when the clutch was pulled in. No power at all to the wheel. So yeah. Just in time for a thunderstorm!
Will try to post more positive things soon! Ha
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Ha
Did it sound like this??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7Pdees1ON8
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Did it sound like this??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7Pdees1ON8
Yes indeed
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A used transmission with good input and output splines would cure that. Like Chris says, you should look at the driveshaft and rear drive splines, too. How many miles on the bike?
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I just got a used transmission for $120 plus shipping and there were others out there for sale as well
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Could be just bad clutch disk splines, no? Wait till you get the tranny off before you pass judgement on it.
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Wait till you get the tranny off before you pass judgement on it.
+1
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Thanks all, as soon as I get my other project out of the garage I'll get the tranny off and take a look. The guy who had this before me said he did a lot of the transmission work himself so idk what the means coming from him.
Judging that I drove it one season then this happened.... hmmm
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I just got a used transmission for $120 plus shipping and there were others out there for sale as well
I may take you up on that offer. Seems like a pretty good price. Where are you located? Always down for a road trip so long as it's not too far.
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Sorry Bobmusik I meant I just brought one for myself at that price. Last weekend I messed up second gear on my tranny redlining the bike in 2nd... :riding:
I was just pointing out that second had transmissions are available and not that expensive.
Also I am in Costa Rica so it wold be a heck of a road trip... close to 4,000 miles!
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Bob, I have been tripping over a late 80's K75 transmission in my garage for over a year now. I'm out near East Aurora, so there would be no shipping on it. You can have it for the same $120 that Filmcamera paid for his.
There are a few differences from the 75 to the 100, but you can make it work by swapping a few parts over from your old one. The main difference is the clutch push rod because the K75 has a different clutch from the K100. All the important internal parts are identical between them so it's just a bolt up swap.
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Sorry Bobmusik I meant I just brought one for myself at that price. Last weekend I messed up second gear on my tranny redlining the bike in 2nd... :riding:
I was just pointing out that second had transmissions are available and not that expensive.
Also I am in Costa Rica so it wold be a heck of a road trip... close to 4,000 miles!
Ohhhh okay haha I gotcha.
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Yeah I would definitely check out the clutch hub splines. Mine were near the failing point but my transmission input splines were fine
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Bob, I have been tripping over a late 80's K75 transmission in my garage for over a year now. I'm out near East Aurora, so there would be no shipping on it. You can have it for the same $120 that Filmcamera paid for his.
Hey! Think I sent a message back, got your private message. I will gladly take you up on the offer to pick up the transmission. Let me know when you're free and we can set a time up.
It's very kinda of you to offer to help work on it too. I'll gladly accept any help if needed but Ease Aurora is still a bit of a drive and till summer, my school schedule still is a bit messy. But hey if stuff works out then great!
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General update to those following, we were able to get it back home the same night thanks to my kind neighbors. After getting yelled at by my one neighbor who owns a bike repair shop that does everything besides BMWs lol
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PM sent.
Stay in touch until you get the transmission out and can tell for sure what the problem is. No sense buying one before you know if you need it.
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Hi Bob, I recognize you from the quattroworld allroad forum.
Here's a shot of where you'll need to get to to determine what's going on (excuse the messy shop).
Andy
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Hi Bob, I recognize you from the quattroworld allroad forum.
Here's a shot of where you'll need to get to to determine what's going on (excuse the messy shop).
Andy
Omg small virtual world!
That's awesome thanks for that. I'm sure everyone's garage goes through that. Mines a mess due to an unexpected rabbit issue. Buuuut I think it's almost over; putting stuff together now. So I'll be able to have all the space I need.
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Hi Bob, I recognize you from the quattroworld allroad forum.
Omg small virtual world!
Bromance alert!
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Bromance alert!
Those who choose to drive and maintain an Audi A6 allroad are automatically entered into an exclusive masochists club.
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Hi all,
I was able to get the transmission off yesterday. I got it up on the workbench and opened it up, to my surprise it seemed like everything was fine. So I looked back to the clutch, which at first glance (to someone who has never really looked at one before) seemed fine. But then I saw that the teeth in the center of it were pretty ground up. So I guess it looks like all I need is a clutch? Or the center part of it? All the oil in it was clean. Actually all the oil everywhere was. So it was probably a bad idea to open up the transmission buuuut I tend to always skip to the more complicated stuff before looking at the easy and simple solution.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170508/2f8b57a64f4975a0598f2f74a0975fda.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170508/e3bb8dce7dec769989bcd6ad63549832.jpg)
Another quick question before I put the transmission back together... it looked like there was some sort of sealant on it, and I couldn't see about any in the manual I use.
Thanks!! Should be pretty easy at this point is seem.
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I was able to get the transmission off yesterday. I got it up on the workbench and opened it up, to my surprise it seemed like everything was fine. So I looked back to the clutch, which at first glance (to someone who has never really looked at one before) seemed fine. But then
Post a straight-on photo of the splined shaft the mated to the clutch disc.
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Splines look stripped. I think you will find that when you remove the clutch plate and stick it on the input gearbox shaft it will probably just spin.
Regards Martin.
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You need a new clutch, and- depending on the condition of the mating splines- possibly a new transmission input shaft as well.
How do the driveshaft splines look?
Andy
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Another quick question before I put the transmission back together... it looked like there was some sort of sealant on it, and I couldn't see about any in the manual I use.
One possible cause of the sealant might be as seen in this video -- caution, Chris Harris lets loose a barrage of expletives to describe any idiot who uses said sealing in the installation of a K-clutch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FOsdfnv9Kc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FOsdfnv9Kc)
In short, watch the video and don't do what that moron did. You'll need to center the clutch plate in the clutch assembly. You can either use a special tool for that or you can do what F14CRAZY does -- more info here:
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=7213.0 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=7213.0)
If you're talking about sealant on the mating surfaces of the transmission and the bell housing, that's not necessary or desirable -- don't do it.
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So here is the shaft and clutch. I think the clutch only needs replacing, the shaft seems fine (to me at least)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170509/96f0def990cb746b8e8133e87f7e4b6e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170509/135a2a14139b41246eb47ceda1ffd311.jpg)
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With regard to the sealant I was talking about, it's green and between the transmission and it's housing cover.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170509/fc7f0433e4b4963ddc52bc493e1ee3ab.jpg)
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I think the clutch only needs it, the shaft seems fine (to me at least)
From what I can see, it looks too worn to work well. Try another head-shot with the entire splined surface exposed. I'm basing my current opinion on the low height of the splines at the front, and the drop and taper of the splines from the rear to the front of the shaft. The depth doesn't seem adequate to transfer torque successfully.
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Looks highly worn to me, but some better photos are in order. But I would not put it into my bike.
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Years of working with machines, gearboxes, and pto shafts has taught me that if you put "rounded" teeth engaging on "new" teeth, failure will result. The only question is the amount of time. Since there are irregularities in the mating surfaces you also introduce the elements of vibration and possible shedding of metal fragments. Neither situation is desirable if you intend long term operation. I went through a similar scenario in a farm truck. I first tried to rig it "on the cheap" with used mismatched recycled parts. The third time I fixed it, it cost a new input shaft, several bearings, and a new output shaft. It was in a pulling truck and under severe load, but the principles involved are identical. Good luck with whatever you decide.
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+ 1 From what I am seeing it looks like a clutch plate and a shaft replacement. The shaft might last for a little while but its on the way out. A worn shaft with also cause excess wear on a new clutch plate.
Regards Martin.
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Before you put money into the bike, show us the drive shaft and rear drive splines.
How many miles on the bike?
Your plans?
If you intend to ride for ever, replace clutch disk and transmission input shaft or the transmission.
If selling and screwing the buyer, then new clutch disk, grease it and sell it to an unsuspecting person and live with yourself. I could never do it, but many do.
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. . . show us the drive shaft and rear drive splines.
+1
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Here's a better view of input shaft. Seems like general consensus is to just go ahead and replace that too. And now that I'm looking at it, seems like most of it is pretty worn anyways. Bike has ~46k on it and I plan on keeping it for who knows how long, so it would just make sense to fix it up right the first time while I'm in here already.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170509/f1aede39d8301e26fae7ae8110b10a80.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170509/620ab51e13da7c3414bf32949831f482.jpg)
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See what is available in used gearboxes might be cheaper and easier. I had a look at Ebay they start at $80.00 and go up to $400.00
and that was in UK and Germany. I would try your Ebay and Craigs list just make sure it has got good shafts.
Regards Martin.
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One more angle
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170509/7e4efab69cdf07c71396a862174bbb45.jpg)
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One more angle
I think you should find a replacement but first, let's have a look at the final drive and driveshaft splines.
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I think you should find a replacement but first, let's have a look at the final drive and driveshaft splines.
Dang more work huh. Alright, climbing into bed now but I'll be sure to find time tomorrow for it.
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You can see it is highly worn. Look at the raised section at the transmission end.
New shaft or good used transmission. But let's see the final drive and shaft as this bike could cost you a lot more than you plan.
Or at least know the pain that could be coming.
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Bike has ~46k on it
I think that odometer reading doesn't jibe with the condition of those splines unless the bike was used to haul bags of cement and concrete blocks to building sites or the transmission was out of alignment.
Are there a couple of locating dowels on the transmission or intermediate housing mating surfaces? An example is indicated in the attached photo.

Locating dowels.jpg (43.79 kB . 480x360 - viewed 411 times)
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I wouldn't put it back together that way. As jackgeiger says, splines that worn will cause premature wear on their mating splines in the new clutch, and the problem will eventually occur again.
That seems like an excessive amount of wear for 46k. I have mine apart now, at 45k, and the splines have virtually no wear. I can take a photo later today to illustate the difference.
I wonder if your instrument cluster was replaced- which is fairly common- and the odometer wasn't reset to the correct mileage. Or, perhaps the transmission was replaced with a higher-mileage unit. It'll be interesting to see the condition of the driveshaft splines.
Andy
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I wonder if your instrument cluster was replaced- which is fairly common- and the odometer wasn't reset to the correct mileage. Or, perhaps the transmission was replaced with a higher-mileage unit. It'll be interesting to see the condition of the driveshaft splines.
+1+1+1 Somewhere here there is an anomaly :bmwsmile ...further investigation is required (driveshaft and fd) if you intend to keep the bike. The good news is that if you fix it correctly, it will last.
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I think that odometer reading doesn't jibe with the condition of those splines unless the bike was used to haul bags of cement and concrete blocks to building sites or the transmission was out of alignment.
Are there a couple of locating dowels on the transmission or intermediate housing mating surfaces? Examples are indicated in the attached photos.
You don't have to haul cement to get splines that look like that in under 10kmiles -- all you have to do is center the clutch improperly on install. I know -- I fried a clutch disk that way and now have a useless transmission box with splines that look exactly like that. So -- center the clutch properly and if it vibrates more after the job than before, do it again till you get it right.
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Alright, so shopping for clutch now, seeing two different kinds, one for RS and LT models. I have the LT, so I'm wondering if it matters. I'm assuming it does, but if it doesn't, would there be benefits to getting one over the other?
Thanks!
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The screwdriver is long enough to go through the spring plate and into the clutch nut/crankshaft. That should centre everything properly, right?
No. Now quit hijacking this thread.
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Alright, so shopping for clutch now, seeing two different kinds, one for RS and LT models.
Just get the part that is specified. It will make life more simple for you. If it isn't available then start searching for alternatives. Will you please answer my query about the locating dowels?
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I used such a homemade tool a couple times with success. I have the Lively too and that worked better a coupe times but somehow the last time I used it I must have screwed it up or the clutch parts weren't aligned right or...I don't know -- all I know is there was more vibration after than before and several thousand mikes later the clutch disk and input shaft were chewed up. I still don't know what I did wrong. Next time I used clutch parts from a different bike and it seems fine. All you can do is do your best and be prepared to get in there again if the results don't seem right.
F14CRAZY will tell you you don't need a special too of any kind to get the clutch centered right. There's a thread in which he describes how he does it...
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If the clutch is out of alignment the normally gearbox wont slide on. Use long bolt with the heads cut of to make fitting easier and also make sure as per Laitch that you have the alignment dowels fitted.
Regards Martin.
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Are there a couple of locating dowels on the transmission or intermediate housing mating surfaces? Examples are indicated in the attached photos.
So looks like I have only one of those little dowels unless it fell out. Will look around for it but it didn't seem like it was there.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170509/b4a7e563d1a3c8ecf141860275994156.jpg)
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Looks like you have a leak too... the clutch nut O-ring, the rear main seal, or maybe both.
Andy
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Here are the drive shaft and final drive spline connection. The driveshaft seems fine to me (but as you've all seen I may not be the best judge, ha) but the final drive seems just a little worn. Opinions?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170509/5dbf9fd3428a3070fdbe8657a3dd21d5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170509/5578e91454a53fabaf6b774a801f5ec4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170509/2bca6be0dcebde7a0a34922dc5b8c67d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170509/7f43af432d9787877201b2dd699b722d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170509/f34af9bd54f9a94e6c685700c5eecbd3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170509/605589b6fd7343f77c5429caa4f7a041.jpg)
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It's best to judge the condition of the splines when all of the grease/lube is cleaned off, but these do look quite worn.
I'm sure the others will chime in on this, but a shot of the final drive from straight on would be helpful too.
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Sorry bad news all badly worn, good splines have a flat on the peak of the splines all the way along them. Absent in your pictures.
Regards Martin.
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Yeah, unfortunately those all look pretty bad... note how your end shots show a "saw tooth" pattern, rather than a symmetrical spline pattern.
Andy
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Chris Harris provides his thoughts on how to judge spline wear here (8:37 in video):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFvU31heFkA&t=8m37s (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFvU31heFkA&t=8m37s)
Take note of his reference to the "step" in the splines.
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Ahhhh I have the driveshaft off and can see what some good splines look like in person too (going from output shaft to driveshaft) but thank you all so very much for helping me identify the issues. I'm a bit of an eBay fiend so parts shouldn't be too bad. I have the clutch on order and will now begin my search for new driveshaft and final drive gear.
Thanks all so much again!
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So looks like I have only one of those little dowels unless it fell out. Will look around for it but it didn't seem like it was there.
Look on the transmission case.
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Look on the transmission case.
Oh I did right after and yeah it's not there. :/
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Oh . . . :/
If it were my bike, I'd get one from MAX BMW to replace the missing one; it should be located on the diagonal. Is easy enough to determine where it should go.
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Those drive shaft splines are very worn and I would not put that back into the bike.
You need to clean the final drive splines with solvent and a tooth brush and then give us an in focus end shot.
Guys is Bruno back in business to help him?
Did you put paint marks on the clutch parts to get it aligned again when putting it back together?
I would replace rear seal and o-ring and many of the bolts and washers to reassemble the clutch assembly are one time use.
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Besides a transmission I have a final drive. I will give you a great deal on them. I should have a dowel as well if you need one. Not only can I give you a great price, but I am near by and can save you the shipping on a couple of heavy parts.
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Besides a transmission I have a final drive. I will give you a great deal on them. I should have a dowel as well if you need one. Not only can I give you a great price, but I am near by and can save you the shipping on a couple of heavy parts.
Help Gryph empty his garage so he can try a four-domino spill. He's making a generous offer here, bobmusick. If I weren't inappropriately feeling lucky, I'd try to snag that transmission for myself.
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By the worn condition of all those parts, I'm sticking by my concrete block/skewed mileage theory. That bike had a long, hard workout in its history.
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Besides a transmission I have a final drive. I will give you a great deal on them. I should have a dowel as well if you need one. Not only can I give you a great price, but I am near by and can save you the shipping on a couple of heavy parts.
Sent an email back :)
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If it were my bike,
Alright! Definitely want to do as much as I can now while it's all apart. Not that I mind the work, but ya know, a clean garage and a rideable bike aren't too bad of things...
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Did you put paint marks on the clutch parts to get it aligned again when putting it back together?
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Didn't mark (oops) but have been taking LOTS of pictures through whole process.
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I have found what looked like factory balance marks on the clutch parts in my bikes. They are very faint, but if you didn't go crazy cleaning them, a close inspection may reveal them.