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MOTOBRICK.COM => Welcome To Motobrick.Com => Topic started by: @ndy on April 26, 2017, 06:29:01 AM
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Hi I have been reading threads on here prior to my purchase and I have found them very very helpful. Thanks everyone!
So A little about me and stuff...
I'm 48 and I lecture in musical instrument making and repairing here at Newark, my specialty is woodwind instruments.
I have a background in engineering and I have always done my own vehicle maintenance since the age of 15 when my parents bought me a mini for Christmas to "play" with.
I had my first bike at the age of 18 and had already passed my car test. first bike was a yamaha SR500 with a sidecar!
I took my test aged 19. had numerous bikes since, most have been highly unfashionable and cheep gaining classic status and value once I had sold them on. among these have been:
Honda CX500
Honda CB200
Yamaha XS 750 (two of these)
Honda CB750 hardtail chop
Moto Guzzi V1000 G5
Yamaha RD250
Suzuki GSX250
Honda CB400n
Suzuki GS850
Some of these have been in harness as it were to side cars at various times and at one time I had one XS750 with and one without.
The bike I owned the longest and miss the most is the Guzzi. this was ex police, Sussex constabulary and I bought it 1989. It was the one I kept until pressure of having a young family persuaded me to sell it in 2003.
I was then without a bike until a little over 2 years ago when I was able to use the need for an additional vehicle in our household as an excuse to get another bike. The budget was small but I managed to find a tidy and seemingly roadworthy 92 Yamaha XJ600 locally. The XJ isn't really my kind of bike but it was a bike and I was enjoying it... Just over a year ago someone tried to steal it (can't think why) and smashed my ignition lock , which was nice of them. I don't know if they have done any other damage to it but it never seems to drive well in a straight line.... May be me but I have given it a good go, repeatedly checked and rechecked wheel and fork alignment, suspension set up. replaced tires. So I decided it was time to change. I really would like another big old Guzzi, but I don't have the budget and can't justify the expense... I looked at old BMW Rs which although a little more affordable are still a bit steep, or need a lot of work (and further expenditure). but I happened during my searches upon several Ks and started to research.
I read a series of reports here: http://www.realclassic.co.uk/bmw_k75rt_owner_review.html
which are nicely written and entertaining I particularly liked this quote:
"However, the bike tracks accurately through corners and the handling is stable. It does take a firm shove on the bars to tip the bike over - this isn't a bike you can just think through corners."
[/size]sounds just like what I'm looking for!
[/size]so yesterday I bid on and won my new dream bike 1990 BMW K75 RT. long MOT, custom Purple paint and a pair of big tragkorbs!
[/size]Done my reading, ordered my workshop manual, and due to collect it (only 20 miles away) on Saturday.
[/size]couple of questions: I have bought this on trust and am about to jump on it and ride it 20 miles back home, other than the obvious what should I be looking at before I make the journey.
[/size]Next what should I be looking at sorting out once I get it home... It has done 78k miles I know about the drive splines but to be honest even if these are bad, the price was right!
[/size]good wishes all!
[/size]@ndy
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Only 20 miles away. While Johnny's recommendations are spot on I would take a different approach. Does it start, check. Put air in tires. Check for fluid leaks, especially rear brake master, water/oil pump and rear of engine. Take for test ride before buying. No issues, then drive it home on side roads with someone following.
If issues on test ride, consider expense to repair. Consider age and cost of rubber replacement parts before buying. There are no free parts.
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@ndy,
Welcome to the world of Johnny! Now let's get serious about this....you mean you can't push a bike 20 miles if it breaks down?? On this side that's walk in the park!!
Check for sufficient petrol, ditto the coolant and the crankcase oil. Any K bike can handle 20 miles of, perhaps, less than ideal operating fitness. You can begin your tear-down when you get her home.
Good luck! You've got a beast there, to be sure.
On a side note, I just took delivery of an '07 Guzzi Breva 1100. Man, is that a different ride! Lots of fun. Now I have to learn Italian!
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I agree with Kris and Elipten. Give it a good once over to make sure it is not leaking very seriously anywhere and other than that ride it home and start working on it.
As well as everything mentioned before also check the front fork seals are ok, when I got mine I had a nasty shock riding it home when I realised my front brakes were covered in fork oil!
Welcome aboard
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I bought my K75S from a guy in Aberystwyth on the basis of a for sale notice in a forum and talking to the guy on the phone. He had looked after it and was well into classic bikes. I drove that bike home to Cambridge a distance of 220 miles without a single issue. Yours has an MOT and while that it not a guarantee of anything it does show that all the important bits were working at the testing station. This whole forum extols the virtues of reliability of K bikes. Ride the thing the 20 miles and don't worry about it! If it is the bike I think it is (I watch eBay for K75 obsessively), and the description was anywhere near accurate, you should get a good machine.
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I have been reading threads on here prior to my purchase and I have found them very very helpful. Thanks everyone!
. . . other than the obvious what should I be looking at . . .
And yet, you went ahead and bought one anyway? :hehehe You should also explain what is obvious to you because it might not be obvious to the rest of us. It should be obvious to look into the fuel tank before you start to see if there is debris in it that will interrupt your moto-reverie, and maybe you should consider replacing the fuel in the tank before heading out. Maybe an MOT inspector over there looks in the tank; that wouldn't surprise me.
Welcome, Andy! In the Repair Guidance section's Master Index you'll find helpful introductory information under the heading Operation.
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Welcome to the asylum! Pretty simple advice here, especially for an experienced motorcycle mechanic...fluids, tire condition/air pressure, and a cell phone :bmwsmile . Pretty much everything on the bike is intuitive and well engineered. Good luck.
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Welcome!!! Any Pics?
:popcorm
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Several of the inmates here have done fly and rides when they bought K bikes(I did a 2100 mile fly and ride). If the bike starts and idles chances are pretty good you can do the 20 miles home.
If not, helping you through a roadside restoration should provide a few weeks of entertainment for the brain trust here. :clap:
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If not, helping you through a roadside restoration should provide a few weeks of entertainment for the brain trust here. :clap:
:popcorm
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Brakes, coolant, fuel and air in tyres welcome to the Knuthouse from the land of OZ.
Regards martin
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Thanks for all the replys and welcomes guys.
when I say "the obvious" I mean that naturally I would check before riding home that there was fuel and oil in there. there was air in the tires, that the breaks appeared to stop it and that there were no major fluid leaks. I just wondered if there was anything "K specific" or idiosyncratic I should have in mind. I have asked the guy if it is fit to ride home he says he has been using it daily to work 35 miles. it was only MOTd 3-4 weeks ago. He says that one front disk runs out slightly and there is a vibration under harsh breaking... He says it has never bothered him and he has been riding it like that for years.. I have checked the MOT history via the reg number... Front brake disk run out has been the only advisory on the tests for the last 3 or 4 years, so sounds like he is being very honest with me. He also had the bike listed on Gumtree for £1200, so I think I have got an ebay bargain at £820.
Longer term once I have it home I'm certainly going to look into this brake (depending on how bad it is) going to check out the tyres, suspension and the driveshaft. I'll also be checking out the steering head and damper.. but I assume these things must be at least up to a minimum level to have got through the most recent MOT. I'll also do a fluids and filters change and service... then I will know where I am with everything unless there is some documentary evidence that any of this is not necessary of course.
are there any other K idiosyncrasy I should be looking out for? I read somewhere about problems with brake disk bolts sheering???
Another thing you chaps may be able to help me with.. I bought it listed as an RT. but when I gave the insurance company the reg they said they thought it was an S. I have attached some pics, does it look like it could be a 1990 RT or is it maybe an S with an RT fairing on it? there was little in the description, so I am wondering what degree of accessories there is.. it doesn't look as though it has ABS, I can't see a temp or fuel gauge so I guess there are no heated grips. none of this bothers me of course.... can't wait until Saturday now!!
@
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. . . bought it listed as an RT. but when I gave the insurance company the reg they said they thought it was an S. I have attached some pics, does it look like it could be a 1990 RT or is it maybe an S with an RT fairing on it?
To repeat, @ndy, I don't know what comes naturally to you and there are plenty of people who have been caught out with no fuel in their tanks. :giggles Specificity is a help here because we're working with each other remotely. You've supplied excellent photos which help a lot.
It has an RT handlebar, a typical dash pad of an RT—not an S, full RT fairing, no ABS. The dash pad looks like it has three blank switches, starting from the left. They will pop out of their holes with a light pry from a screwdriver. The rightmost switch might be a four-way flasher or blank. Press on the bottom of it and see if it clicks into position.
There is a K75 Riders Manual on this site in the Repair Guidance section's Master Index available for download.
Look behind the right footpeg plate. The rear brake cylinder is there. If the bottom of it is moist with brake fluid, that's a £100 bargaining chip. You could need to rebuild it or replace it. There's nothing to be done about brake bolt shearing possibilities unless you bring x-ray equipment with you and know how failing bolts appear on its screen. I haven't read about that condition but it sounds exciting.
Look underneath the bike at the joint between the engine and transmission. There's a small hole there that should not have fluid residue around it. If it does, you'll have some repair ahead of you—not necessarily soon, but eventually. In the front of the engine the combination water and oil pump also has a weep hole under it and that should be dry, too.
You can view photos of the bike's components in workshop manuals found in the Master Index.
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It's an RT, the vacuum rubber caps & Z breather hose is prone to cracking and leaking, electrical connectors benefit from cleaning using Deoxit. I also use dielectric around the connections I believe it stops corrosion by eliminating air and water ingress. Others say dielectric grease causes connectivity problems, your call. Electrical problems are one of the major problems with a bike of this age and preventative care and maintenance should eliminate most problems. Buy or download a manual.
Regards Martin.
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Thanks so much chaps. When you say Vacuum rubbers, do you mean the blanking rubber for the vacuum gauge points?
So I guess prone to air leaks. The guy said in the description "runs nice but i think it could do with a tune/service[/size] " so maybe I should check out a lean run from air leaks.....I'll certainly be giving it a thorough check over this weekend.... I'll no doubt be back asking stupid questions about everything I find!! :dunno2:
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Thanks so much chaps. When you say Vacuum rubbers, do you mean the blanking rubber for the vacuum gauge points?
So I guess prone to air leaks. The guy said in the description "runs nice but i think it could do with a tune/service " so maybe I should check out a lean run from air leaks.....I'll certainly be giving it a thorough check over this weekend.... I'll no doubt be back asking stupid questions about everything I find!! :dunno2:
Can't wait. :yippee: I'll be crocheting potholders in the meantime.
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Take the VIN number and run it to see what the bike actually was when it left the factory.
It has an RT fairing, and no ABS system.
Bike looks good. If running daily I would have no fear to drive it home. Just be careful these bikes are top heavy. Prone to being dropped on the right side. Check mirror, fairing and engine for evidence of a drop.
Manifold rubbers may be cracked and the Z tube Bayern me cracked. Common problems. Latter is a cheap easy fix. Former is more money and work but can be done.
Splines are always a risk. But hey it is not new and the price is fair if you need parts.
If it runs and moves I say go for it.
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A gallon of gas is more than enough to get you home. You might want to take a jug of fresh gas with some Techron in it. That will guarantee you have enough to get home, and as a bonus start the cleaning process on the injectors.
Add spline lubes to the list of maintenance chores. Do both the drive shaft(both ends) and the clutch. Most bikes have never had the clutch splines done, and those dry splines can make shifting hard. While in there you can check for oil seepage from the clutch o-ring or just replace it to get it done and behind you. A lot of people will advise changing the rear main engine seal while you're in there, but unless it is definitely leaking I would leave it alone and depending on your budget, save the money for something else.
The pictures look like the bike is in pretty good shape. As I said earlier, if it starts easily and idles I wouldn't hesitate riding it 20 miles to get it home.
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Thanks, that all sounds like very sound advice. I was going to take a gallon can of petrol with me. When I bought my XJ600 the guy had left it on empty. I guess I can understand that if you wanted a certain price and you have beaten down, you aren't going to give away £20 worth of fuel into the bargain..... I have had some bikes in the past that have doubled in value when I have filled the tank up! and even more cars!!
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I've had cars that doubled in value when I put air in the tires. :mbird
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If going by car and have a portable compressor, use to inflate the tires if necessary. Tire gauge to check pressure goes without saying.
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You're in for a treat @ndy.
They are awesome.
820 quid is small enough to be sidelined forever.She could be your forever bike...
The Guzzi will always be held in reverence,looking back.The Brick will most likely be a long term practicality for you.
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Well, the bike is mine and it is home, I have so much to comment on and even more things to ask.
When I went to fetch it on Saturday afternoon I was beginning to get a little nervous.... I had read quite a few negative things on internet reviews... nothing major but things about it being top heavy and the seat being really high and only suitable for people who are 6' tall. I'm 5'9", It would have been so embarrassing to have paid the man and then dropped it on his drive!!
My fears were needless. It fits me well, I can reach the floor comfortably. I find it very well balanced and light to maneuver, no worse than the XJ600, and actually easier to push. I set off and stalled a couple of times... but immediately I hit the road I felt ah home. The riding position the comfort the stability is just what I was looking for... As I came out of town and began to open the bike up a little I was overwhelmed by wind and wind noise. I think this is something to do with the screen. I use full face helmet but my visor is hopelessly scratched and a replacement has proved difficult to source. Because I like to leave it open anyway I have taken to wearing windproof glasses. unfortunate the wind is rushing straight into my face... Not nasty or buffeting but over 40mph, All I can hear is wind, can't hear the engine at all!!! Is this normal, should I be looking for a different screen or making some adjustments/modification?
The journey home was uneventful. I had a brief moment when I hit a traffic calming thing in the road in one of the villages. A slightly raised piece of red tarmac marked with a huge 30mph sign and cross hatched lines. The bike bucked disconcertingly but held its line perfectly... other than that a gentle pleasant ride.
The guy I bought it from said it has run out on the right disk, and it's been like that for years and indeed it is recorded on the MOTs. It isn't just a little vibration though, I think I'll be doing something with that really soon.
I have had some time to give it the once over since Saturday but not to look into anything thoroughly. The bike seems to have had money and time spent on it periodically but generally to have been neglected. The tank faring and plastics have been treated to quite a respectable amateur respray, but the engine gearbox and everything else below is matt black. The frame has been painted with hammerite or some such but I don't have a problem with that. Brake pads look quite new, as does the rear shock/spring. A decent pair of Avon tyres on there with lots of miles left on them and the wheels seem in very good condition with pristine paintwork.
The guy told me he had "done" the injector seals but that it could do with a bit of a tune up. Now while it struck up from cold fine and sounded fine when cold it was a different story when I got it home and it was warm.... Still starts ok engine warm but it misses a bit when you give it a bit of a rev or hold it at increased engine revs. There is also an engine noise when it is hot. sounds like it is coming from just under the tank. if the engine is idling and you blip the throttle there is a noise like half a dozen marbles in the until the engine picks up. sounds almost like pinking/pre ignition .... but I suppose it could be little ends or something, I'm not sure... I have recorded it and I will try and put it on here see if anyone can tell me what it might be.
@ndy
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Because I like to leave it open anyway I have taken to wearing windproof glasses. unfortunate the wind is rushing straight into my face... Not nasty or buffeting but over 40mph, All I can hear is wind, can't hear the engine at all!!! Is this normal, should I be looking for a different screen or making some adjustments/modification?
Much sound baffling depends on the fit and design of your helmet. With an open face shield on a full face helmet, wind will circulate inside the helmet and create a racket, especially if that helmet is second quality that doesn't fit optimally but you probably know that already because you've owned umpteen bikes. A wind screen of different dimensions could help direct the wind out of your face and also lessen noise.
I like riding a naked bike. I use a full faceshield Arai helmet and wear earplugs. An effective pair of earplugs will mute wind noise and should allow the sound of your bike's engine to occupy the background sound agreeably unless it is sucking a valve, of course. That will be unpleasantly loud regardless but only for a few moments. I feel more relaxed after a long ride when I wear earplugs
As far as your bike's engine condition, the coolant and all the lubricating fluids should be changed immediately. The fan should be checked for correct operation. As far as engine noise is concerned, if you lug these bikes at low speed, they will rattle until the revs get where they belong. You'll learn to ride and shift with higher revs. We always like an audio file of rattles and knocks here so post it up pronto.
Consult the Master Index for maintenance procedures.
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Include some more clues about your bike on your profile,mileage,vin.Gives us a better idea of what your on about.
'Be surprised if it was small ends.Check your valve clearances,anyway.Keep these in spec for long life.Bucket and shims on top.Then do an air flow balance at idle for all cylinders.
Take off the little tee cover and see if any"adjustment"to the ignition timing plate position has been made.I look for any signs of ingress into the motor by any mechanic.Look at the dobs of paint on various adjustment screws at the injector,throttle area.Some of these are factory set....The paint indicates both factory process complete and any subsequent tampering has/not occurred.
Old rubber engine intake hoses may be leaking causing imbalance of carburation,noticeable at low throttle openings.
All this is easily fixed.
All the best.
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BMW installed a nifty feature that allows you to test whether it is running rich or lean. With the bike idling at 1000 rpm press the green start button, if the mixture is right the revs will remain the same or rise slightly. If the revs rise a lot or drop the mixture is out. This is a feature that BMW built into the bike and as long as it is idling at 1000rpm or above the starter will not engage. You can apparently also use this feature as a boost. http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,3690.msg22201.html#msg22201
Regards Martin.
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"10% Boost!"
I'll use it next tricky situation. :riding:
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Hi Just want to thank everyone for their advice and encouragement and to give you all a bit of an update.
I am still very pleased with the bike it really is a nice ride. all the negative things people say about them are complete rubbish...
Top heavy, really? I find it very well balanced and easier to push around in my garage/driveway than my XJ600. yes if you are dumb enough to lean it over too much while you are pushing it around it can suddenly get "a bit heavy" but why would you do that...
It is hard work and heavy in town traffic... nothing could be further from the truth, I find the K75 a breeze in town and very stable and well mannered at slow speed maneuvers.
The gear change is clunky and agricultural.. bull sh*tt!!! I suppose it depends what you are used to but I find the clutch light and the gear change smooth and positive.
The K series are Characterles... I don't agree with this either... yes the bike is smooth, well mannered, well designed and I guess from the design quite maintenence free (by this I mean you shouldn't need to tinker with it every time you take it down to the shops). But the design is quirky and full of character, like owning a classic Citroen!!
All in all I love it to bits.
I did a major service over the weekend but still have a few jobs to do, this is what I have done:
changed the oil and filter,
Changed gearbox and final drive oil.
Cleaned and greased the drive shaft splines front and back. (the front ones were perfect and still had grease, the back ones were dry and a bit rusty showing signs of mild wear so I guess I caught them in time)
Air filter
Bled the breaks through with fresh fluid
Checked out the brake pads
cleaned and greased the twist grip mechanism
Checked for air leaks
Tappet/valve clearances... well these were all just a little tight, one in particular exhaust cyl 1 (front pot) was almost non existent 8 thou too tight. I was able to surface grind the shims to the appropriate sizes so now all good.
balanced the throttle bodies
certainly improved how it runs.
I am now quite sure the noise I hear is nothing to worry about, bit of a rattle when Opening the throttle from idle, only when opened suddenly... seems to be a K series trait from what I have read... I don't think it is the Alternator drive or the final drive/balance shaft...
Still a bit of a misfire thing going on when warm and held at revs no load. 2500-3000 or so... but not evident under load, I don't know if this is normal or whether it could be some slight vale damage from the tight clearances, nothing showed on the vacuum gauges but I guess I need to do a compression test.
I haven't changed the coolant yet but I thought I might just do a coolant/oil pump overhaul/seal change... is this a good idea rather than waiting until it goes. There is some oil from the clutch housing, just a little. I am guessing rear engine seal or gearbox input seal or both are weeping but I will wait until it gets bad or I have to split it for something else like clutch before doing it.
I found that one of my tragkorb brackets were broken, so I fashioned a piece of aluminium and fixed it to the plastic with some M4 screws, now my tragkorb doesn't wobble about... I also found corrosion under the rear brake pedal. the par you put your foot on is coming detached from the "stalk" the metal underneath resembles some kind of wafer! I haven't decided whether to simply replace it (they seem a little expensive) or weather to fabricate a new pedal to and fix it on....
anyway it is all making me smile! :-)
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Oh almost forgot, have a wobbly right hand front brake disc too! previous owner did tell me about it... it isn't really bad. I'm looking for a used disk but I'm also considering surface grinding it, I think I can get it true without it being under minimum prescribed thickness.
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. . . all the negative things people say about them are complete rubbish...
Lofty. Breathtakingly lofty!
I haven't changed the coolant yet but I thought I might just do a coolant/oil pump overhaul/seal change... is this a good idea rather than waiting until it goes.
As far as the coolant pump goes, I suggest that if it isn't broken, don't fix it. Instead, do a thorough coolant system/block flush then replace the coolant with long-life coolant and distilled water in the correct proportion for the climate in which the bike is too be ridden. Of course, you would know best.
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Hey....I'm just down the road in Lincoln...(not Nebraska) just bought a
K1100 LT with the intention of making a restomod cafe racer of some sort....mine had been stood in a shed for 7 years....so still working on getting it running....bought mine on eBay as a non runner...good news is that the plate is worth just under what I paid....so low risk if it turns out to be a lemon...
If you want to compare notes.....or meet up for a beer/coffee let me know...Greg 01522 790717 or 07955 550861