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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: Kai Ju on January 30, 2017, 12:18:52 AM
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or the rescue of another disastrous Cafe Racer attempt.
Starting with somebody else's failure is in some regards more satisfying than starting with a perfectly good motorcycle.
Mind you, I'd like to think that even if I had done gone that route I still would have ended up with this bike, it just would have cost more to start with.
My goal was to build a bike that I can ride anywhere, albeit solo and without luggage, and that I can take to any BMW dealer for service.
Having said all that, here is what I did start with:
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_0606_zpseogihv0q.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_0606_zpseogihv0q.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_0608_zpshezvqssq.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_0608_zpshezvqssq.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_0620_zpskgymjixl.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_0620_zpskgymjixl.jpg.html)
Here is what it looks like today:
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_2221_zps1sk7jfrb.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_2221_zps1sk7jfrb.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_2222_zpsvwklgid1.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_2222_zpsvwklgid1.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_2223_zpsyniiuxvv.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_2223_zpsyniiuxvv.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_2224_zpsnoqjgjaw.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_2224_zpsnoqjgjaw.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_2225_zpsd94eiogy.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_2225_zpsd94eiogy.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1565_zpsqtgzep4s.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1565_zpsqtgzep4s.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1567_zpsyycarwal.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1567_zpsyycarwal.jpg.html)
If you're curious about the steps in between, you can find a "built" thread here: http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/so-i-bought-this-k100.1198140/ (http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/so-i-bought-this-k100.1198140/)
I realize this is a cheeky way to do this but I don't really want to duplicate what I've done on ADVrider already.
If there are specific questions about any of the steps, let me know and I'll do my best to answer those.
Thanks for looking.
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Thanks. Nice project! Your exhaust came out great.
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Great bike Kai Ju! I had a look at your build at adv rider. Really great work on the seat/cowl - it has to be one of the toughest aspects to get right and yours like great. Enjoy it! Also like the rear fender for wet weather - very practical!
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nice save of some elses mess! Only complaint is the logo treatment looks a little like a vaccination scar :mbird
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A tasteful set of mods :bmwsmile
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Only complaint is the logo treatment looks a little like a vaccination scar :mbird
It was a vaccination for caféplague. :2thumbup:
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Thanks for the kind words everyone, except the Vaccination Scar comment by Chaos. That one stung just a bit since I designed and made the Roundels myself. :neener:
Luckily the sting was then taken out by Laitch, thanks.
I didn't just want to buy something off the shelf so I decided to make my own.
Just like the rear sets, the exhaust, etc.
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. . . I designed and made the Roundels myself.
Would you please tell us the material, its thickness and the adhesive you used for the roundels, Kai Ju?
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The roundels are made out of 3000 series aluminum, 0.060" thick, which is the same material the tail cowl is made of. Speaking of, I need to make one more for the tail.
They are attached with outdoor rated 3M doublestick tape.
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Most comfortable seat I have seen on a café actually looks rideable, and could possibly rack up a decent mileage on it. :2thumbup:
Regards Martin
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The roundels are made out of 3000 series aluminum . . .
Thanks for the info!
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Kudos on a nice job! :clap:
That seat jumped out at me as soon as I looked at it. I think there are only one or two other cafe bikes I've seen here that had seats I would want to sit on for more than 15 minutes. Yours looks like I could go for at least a couple hours. The lines of the cowl also work quite well on this bike. The sculpting of the cowl is so well done that it looks like it came from the factory.
All in all a very well done bike where reliable functionality hasn't been sacrificed on the altar of styling or something.
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S
Kudos on a nice job! :clap:
All in all a very well done bike where reliable functionality hasn't been sacrificed on the altar of styling or something.
+1
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Thanks everyone. Appreciate the kind words.
My goal was to build a "Custom" that worked like a motorcycle. Not a showpiece.
Thanks for the compliments on the seat and seat cowl.
When I researched custom K-Bikes, that's the one thing that jumped out more than anything else. Lots of planks with foam and vinyl. Very few people seemed to consider the lines of the seat in relation to the fuel tank or the subframe.
My goal was to mimic the stock shape of the cowl and side covers in a one piece unit.
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1198_zpsgdxjvwm1.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1198_zpsgdxjvwm1.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1379_zpsdlhfyhny.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1379_zpsdlhfyhny.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1387_zpsbyzsrdbr.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1387_zpsbyzsrdbr.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1421_zpsri5mtbn3.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1421_zpsri5mtbn3.jpg.html)
There are four inches of proper motorcycle seat foam under that cover. I've spent a day in the canyons and the seat never even came to mind.
It still has a center stand for a reason, such as oil level and tire pressure checks. Not to mention working on the bike while I was building it.
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That Sir, is the finest example of making a cafe styled seat actually work w the funky frame/tank angles.
Good show.
Also, Loving the roundels!
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That Sir, is the finest example of making a cafe styled seat actually work w the funky frame/tank angles.
Good show.
Also, Loving the roundels!
Then you'll get a chuckle out of this:
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/Parallels_zpstmpxavkg.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/Parallels_zpstmpxavkg.jpg.html)
Seems that Chaos is in a minority of one regarding the Roundels.... :hide:
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Where did you get your double sided adhesive for the roundels. I have been looking for double sided sheet that I could cut to shape, but all I can find is tape.
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Tape is what I used since the center of the roundel doesn't touch the tank anyway. I just applied it in strips around the perimeter and then trimmed the excess, in gray below, with scissors.
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A great example of what it takes to do a proper job.
Then you'll get a chuckle out of this:
Fair enough,Were you tempted to mimic the bottom of the tank "angles"where the seat cowling returns (upper green and yellow lines) to the frame rail under seat /tank?
Risky but "if you can't beat it then join it"and could be a solution to this significant styling anomally.
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If you are talking about that short section of tubing that is visible above the fuse box and below the tank, then no.
The only change made to the frame is the 5" section that was cut out of seat frame between the rearmost cross brace and the original seat mounts which are not being used. Except the right one. It's holding the mounting bracket for the turn signal resistors.
The rear loop is still stock.
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1544_zpsmjx9qh7t.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1544_zpsmjx9qh7t.jpg.html)
The cross brace now supports the seat in the middle while the old rear bag mounts are now the rear mounts for the seat cowl.
I wanted to modify the frame as little as possible.
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Just the shape of the aluminium seat cowl mimicing the tank bottom lines.
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It's late, or I'm really dense right now, but I don't understand your question.
My original goal was to have the bottom edge of the seat cowl parallel the bottom edge of the fuel tank, as seen by the yellow lines.
And that the rear of the tank meet with the front of the seat and cowl, as seen by the green lines. It just so happened that they also parallel the frame tube and the front 'knee dent' line on the tank.
Everything else that lined up I give credit to my minds eye, after years of designing and making jewelry. (slight pat on the back there)
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Really nice job.......very clean, good workmanship! :2thumbup:
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Everything else that lined up I give credit to my minds eye, after years of designing and making jewelry.
I guess that explains the level of craftsmanship displayed in this bike.
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Kai Ju,I'm just a mind's eye guy too.Your creation is fantastic.
This sketch could get my mind's eye across to you.I can see this as being a way to use this aesthetic problem as a feature.
The thing is all these modified bricks rarely deal with this quirk at the bottom of the tank which is normally covered up by some radiator cowling.Duplicating it would be neat and imply intelligence...that's all.
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Now I understand what you meant. Thanks for clearing it up.
I actually have something planned for that area on the tank, just haven't decided which route I'm going to go.
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Really nice build Kai Ju! very sharp, very clean !
did you machine the logo or did you do that by hand or both? up close it reminds me of wood carvings we had in the family...
i was wondering about the fender and finally saw it on your other thread. nice and functional :)
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The roundel was made by hand, other than cutting the circumference out with a band saw.
The lines were made using dividers (compass ) and the pattern that replaces the blue was made using a small rectangular faced punch and a small hammer.
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I like how you made the wooden buck for the tail pans.
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I was perusing your build last night. I'm actually a little jealous because not only did you do a nice job design wise, but you also put hammer to metal yourself. I 'helped' on my cowl, and learned a lot, but the cowl was made by Lee Kay.
Because of you taking hammer to metal, you might appreciate this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YH3tHtADIkw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YH3tHtADIkw)
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New front brake lines.
I was not really happy with the look of the two lines coming from the master cylinder down to the calipers.
Now it is one line coming from the master cylinder down to the right side caliper and, through a double banjo off that line, across over to the left caliper.
I added some retaining brackets from the rear mounts of the front fender for a cleaner routing.
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1648_zpsvrzhn889.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1648_zpsvrzhn889.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_2231_zpsoyogqbaa.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_2231_zpsoyogqbaa.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_2229_zpsxhjrmuee.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_2229_zpsxhjrmuee.jpg.html)
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Here are a couple of detail pictures of my Custom (home made) rear sets.
All the rear sets I've seen for the K Bikes bolt to the two rear most stock foot peg plate mounts. That was too far back for my taste. (old'ish knees )
I played with location quite a bit and finally realized that the swingarm pivot location was perfect for me. So that became my mounting plate, if you will.
I drilled and tapped both sides and cut the levers out of 10mm plate. I added brass bushings for the pivots, ordered some metric heim joints and this is the result.
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1605_zpsykpay0uz.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1605_zpsykpay0uz.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1604_zpsh9wlpjre.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1604_zpsh9wlpjre.jpg.html)
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Thanks Kai Ju, and you have a real nice bike to be proud of. Lots of great work there like the rearsets too! Brass bushes too!
Thanks for the video. I have a huge piston pin from a 2000 hp Ingersoll Rand that I form metal on too. Actually, anything can form it. Once again, nice work.
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A few more detail photos.
from this
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1577_zpsxdpsmil3.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1577_zpsxdpsmil3.jpg.html)
to this
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1602_zpspbj5mtfj.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1602_zpspbj5mtfj.jpg.html)
K1200 exhaust modification to fit the k100 transmission. The sidestand mount had to go as well.
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/K1200%20Headpipe_zpstl6ltgfm.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/K1200%20Headpipe_zpstl6ltgfm.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1115_zpswsthxcz6.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1115_zpswsthxcz6.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1114_zpsbp2bvfx6.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1114_zpsbp2bvfx6.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1113_zpsvcczrpdb.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1113_zpsvcczrpdb.jpg.html)
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Above I showed the rears sets as they are now.
Here is where I started.
Brake side.
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_0741_zpsecdmfo6k.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_0741_zpsecdmfo6k.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_0745_zpstc48kzgh.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_0745_zpstc48kzgh.jpg.html)
Shifter
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_0744_zpsxraoecaq.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_0744_zpsxraoecaq.jpg.html)
I wasted several pounds of aluminum to arrive where they are now. I still want to give the levers an I-beam type profile but haven't quite figured out yet how to do it without a mill. I refuse to just drill a series of holes...
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I have milled aluminium with a drill press fitted with a cross slide vice and a morse taper milling bit. I bought a set of bits and morse adapters from a local shop that specialised in suppling hobbists who made functioning miniature steam trains. I think they cost me between $100.00 to $150.00. Set drill on the highest speed feed slowly and use plenty of cutting fluid and don't try to remove too much material use multiple passes. I have been told it probably doesn't do the drill press a lot of good due to the lateral pressure involved but as yet I can detect no harm but probably wouldn't set up a business doing it.. I have also used a electric router still fitted with wood bits to mill aluminium set to a medium speed go slow and cutting fluid. I screwed the aluminium I was working on to a piece of laminated chipboard from the back side, I then made up guides and stops out of more scrap chipboard. You need to be careful if milling a large recess to keep the depth the same on each pass, otherwise you will end up with an uneven recess. I bought a reasonably cheap set of router bits and it did not appear to do any harm to the bits cost about $40.00. I have thought about trying to make a mill by combining the router with the proper milling bits and the cross slide vice but don't do enough milling, maybe one day. Due to the high speed nature of this procedure you need to wear full safety gear and practice on some scrap to get a feel for feed rates, speed and material removal.
Regards Martin.
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Oddly enough, I used a hybrid version of your method to adapt the K1100 calipers to the K100 fork legs. Except I didn't like the appearance of the finish. Since that side bolted up to the fork lugs I didn't mind all that much, but with the rear sets being in plain view, I do care.
I used a 1/4 flat wood bit, as seen here:
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_0788_zpshgexm3hb.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_0788_zpshgexm3hb.jpg.html)
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I was cutting right through and shaping 5mm thick aluminium with the drill press. Did you have it on the highest speed and use cutting fluid it helps, also I had to adjust out the free play in the vice to stop chatter. It is possible that more solid mounting of the job might of helped, it might of flexed a bit causing chatter. The Router did a better job on recesses, practice also helped finding out the correct speed feed rates etc. At the time would have loved a real Milling machine but could not warrant the expense still can't. :dunno
Regards Martin.
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Like you I would love to have a mill, but cannot justify the expense. Not to mention the space it would need.
I guess I need to belly up to the bar and give my drill press another chance.
Thanks for the encouragement.
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More details.
Here is where I stashed the horn, and you can see the temp sender for the Trail Tech Vapor gauge.
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1489_zps2tf46idi.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1489_zps2tf46idi.jpg.html)
Speaking of the Vapor, couple more photos of that installation.
I used a mash up of different kits, especially the warning lights. Normally they come as a set of four but I ordered extra bulbs and combined them in a 9 pin connector. This allowed me to get all the warning light functions in one place.
From left to right: Oil pressure light is actuated by a stock sender.
The Neutral light is actuated by an R1100 neutral switch modified to work on the K shift drum. I don't mind not having a gear position indicator as long as I have the neutral light. I do have to pull the clutch lever to start the engine though.
The turn signal indicator is in the middle. I had to solder diodes into the leads so the right turn signal wouldn't also actuate the left and vice versa.
Highbeam ended up in the headlight bucket, just above the gauges.
Low fuel was a bit tricky. I ended up buying a 2 kohm thermistor from the local electronics supply and wired it into the stock circuit in the 4L position. Works like a charm.
The Gen light was wired up stock as well.
The Vapor indicates speed, rpm,trip and odometer, clock,water temp, elapsed time, max speed/rpm/water temp and ambient air temp.
It also has shift lights, as well as high water temp warning. They are programmable for low and high, actually high and higher.
I've had one on my XR650R for at least 8 years, so it was an easy choice to make.
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1554_zpswx81jseb.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1554_zpswx81jseb.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1479_zpsbmjaskju.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1479_zpsbmjaskju.jpg.html)
Thermistor
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1552_zpsofz2i1z3.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1552_zpsofz2i1z3.jpg.html)
Any questions, feel free to ask.
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Nice, that's where I'm putting my horns too. I really wanted the vapor but I sold out and got an Acewell. I wish you had posted earlier on the install, it looks really really nice!
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I was doing laps around the bike trying to find a location for the horn. If I had a couple of the Fiamms I might have gone outside, but once I stuck the horn behind the radiator I was a happy man. The threaded boss is already there, unoccupied, and it's already threaded with an 8mm hole.
Gauges for a K are truly a challenge. I know it's been made easier by rbm, but I didn't know about his device when I started my build.
My initial plan was to use one of these http://tinyurl.com/zmsgl2c (http://tinyurl.com/zmsgl2c) but $369 was more than I wanted to spend.
The Vapor has so much functionality, for the price that it was an easy choice.
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Another quick update.
The bike is 95% done. Now it's the iddy biddy details.
I did install a different set of footpegs. What was on there was quite short and extremely buzzy.
Got these off eBay, less than $10 shipped, but it took a while.
I had expected them to be drilled out, but they were solid save for the 8mm threaded hole on one end and a larger hole for the plastic cap one the other end.
Having said in the past that I wish I had a mill, well I would like a lathe as well.
Due to the design of my rear sets I cannot install a bolt from the mounting plate, since there isn't one. The swingarm pivot bolts are the mounting plate.
A stud could have been used but there was no way to tighten the peg securely without first filing or machining flats on the peg for a wrench.
So I drilled the length of the peg to allow the installation of an 8mm Allen bolt from the peg side.
Here is the end result. Oddly enough, these pegs are less buzzy, possibly due to their more substantial mass. They are also 20mm longer than the previous ones, even with 12mm cut of the inboard side of the peg. In other words, they are more comfortable.
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_2264_zpsbwhgtmzt.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_2264_zpsbwhgtmzt.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_2265_zpsd2n0z4m1.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_2265_zpsd2n0z4m1.jpg.html)
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Here is one of the toughest areas to deal with on 'naked' K100s. The area between the radiator and the front of the fuel tank.
I actually own the stock radiator shroud that comes on the standard K100, but wanted to limit the amount of plastic/fiberglass to a minimum.
Here is what I came up with.
It's made from perforated aluminum, about 2mm thick.
I'm torn between black and aluminum, so here are both versions.
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1689_zpsdv57csoq.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1689_zpsdv57csoq.jpg.html)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1690_zps4xdrz4l4.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1690_zps4xdrz4l4.jpg.html)
And one overall shot in aluminum. (Didn't think to do that before I stripped the paint...)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/nilmez/K100/IMG_1692_zpsboocw0l3.jpg) (http://s814.photobucket.com/user/nilmez/media/K100/IMG_1692_zpsboocw0l3.jpg.html)
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Silver looks good on the closeup. but the black looks better overall. at least to my eye...
keep going...
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I'm torn myself about the color. The aluminum continues the theme of aluminum as a color, but the black just looks 'right' for that piece.
The stock I'm working with is painted black and I still need to make the other side, so that'll give me a chance to compare the two colors at the same time.
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You did nice work. There's no question there. I did a lot of mock up too. I was going to make the same with either sheetmetal, aluminum, or fiberglass. Eventually, I came to the conclusion that the raw naked look of the tank is one of the things that makes the K endearingly ugly.
I'm partial to the black myself if you do decide to add them.
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I like seeing the mechanicals as well, but I do not want to leave the mounting hole for the radiator shroud open. I've already painted that whole area black, and had a plug in the hole, but it still looks somewhat unfinished. I also don't want to cut it off, just in case.
The right side is used to hold the bracket for the ignition switch, but I've yet to find the perfect fastener for that task. I'm currently using a button head Allen, painted black, but it still doesn't look like it belongs.
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I like the way that piece helps define the line of the bottom edge of the tank.
I like the silver best because it does the best job of highlighting the line. But...it would be interesting to see the part made with non-perforated metal.
Also, something there is screaming for a shark mouth with lots of sharp teeth.
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With you Gryph but would look more like a Piranha.
Regards Martin
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Looks great! My vote is for black. As you said; it looks right for that piece.
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The silver does extend the seat pan line visually...ah, decisions, decisions!
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After putting over 700 miles on the bike since I finished it, it left me stranded on the 405 South during rush hour Monday morning. Almost...
There is nothing quite like going along at 65 or so in the carpool lane and it shuts off as if I had hit the kill switch.
Pulled the clutch, looked over my right shoulder and somehow made it to the right shoulder without getting run over. I did not want to stop in the carpool lane.
This was in Long Beach, about 1/2 mile before the 710 interchange.
Anyway, no tools and the nearest off ramp is about a 1/4 mile behind me, or 1/2 mile ahead, just to get to the 710.
Opened the gas cap, no sucking sound and plenty of gas.
Cranks over fine, but won't start. Fuel pump is running when I hit the starter button, and if I turn the kill switch off it won't crank.
Who am I gonna call. My son has the truck at school, so the next choice would be one of my buddies at work.
Before I fish my phone out of my pocket I try one more time and it fires up. WTF ?
So I chance it and proceed to work in the slow lane, about another 10 miles from where it died. Couple of hiccups on the way, but didn't die.
Park it at work, and at lunch see if it starts. It does, no problem.
But I didn't trust it and got a ride home from one of my work friends.
Finally, last night I had a chance to do some troubleshooting, looking for loose grounds, bad connections, what have you. Find nothing amiss. All the plug ins are tight, no chafed wires that I could see, just everything the way it is supposed to be.
It fires up no problem, idles, accepts throttle. Again, WTF ?
I leave it running for a while and when it gets into the 140s F water temp, I give it a couple good throttle blips and it dies.
Takes a few minutes to start again, just like on the freeway. Blip the throttle again, and it dies again but this time takes longer to restart.
Pull plug wires off the coil a bit, to check if I can hear arcing. I do for 2/3 but not 1/4.
Pull the spark plug to confirm, but by that time it had cooled enough to start again.
Blip the throttle till it dies, yank the #1 plug and no spark.
Hall Sensor.
Have you looked up prices for one of those lately ?
Over $600 from BMW, $400 on eBay, used ones for $200 plus.
Called The Partshaus, used BMW parts emporium in Long Beach that I've been dealing with for years, and he sells me one for $120.
Thank you very much Joshua.
Installed the new to me sensor and went for a 15 mile ride.
Runs like a top.
(Sorry about the long winded post
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Nice heads up diagnosis! :clap: Nice score on the Hall effect sensors! :2thumbup:
I always like a story with a happy ending.
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Here is an even happier ending for future reference.
The hall sensor, as in the actual sensor riveted to the base plate, is commercially available, individually.
Here are a couple of links:
https://www.jaycar.com.au/hkz-101-hall-effect-device-re-introduced/p/ZD1900
http://www.hallsensors.de/Hall-Vane.htm
Something to tuck away for the future.
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Nice one Kai Ju.Ill try and remember that next time.Actually,mine has never broken down in thirty years and when it(she) does I'll be absolutely floored because of her increadable reliability.My world would collapse.
I would have to fix my old Triumph every time I rode her so it's been a long holiday,so far.
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I've seen two failed Hall Sensors in the past 6 months. One on a customer bike, the other one on mine.
They are the first two I've ever seen...