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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: BENSPEN on October 16, 2016, 12:24:26 PM
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Hello All,
I have been a part of the forums here for a while now, but I have finally made some progress in my build and think I should document it. I have never really posted anything valuable in this forum, so consider this my introduction as well.
Hello, my name is Ben, I am a 17 year old who works as a mechanic at a local truck shop in Vermont, I race NESC Motocross and broke my radius and my ulna in a race last week, I decided to call it quits on the season and have started my K100 project I have been so anxiously awaiting. So, here is my story....
In July I purchased a K100rs with 65k on the clock, It was in ROUGH shape, unfortunately I had to ship the bike because I had no time to pick it up from the seller, I knew it was a bad idea but i wanted the Turbo Bike and decided to test my luck (seller was also a douche). When it arrived, it looked much worse than it did in the photos (Expected). The previous owner was quite the whackjob, he had some interesting stickers on the headlight (see photos) and carbon fiber wrap on the bike, he crudely painted the fairing which was not even taken off. he also painted the tank rattle can black, right over the stock paint, it also had a very bent brake lever, if anyone has a spare please let me know, I need a new one. It had skull blinkers on it and it just looked aesthetically awful. The first thing I did was look into the turbo which the seller boasted about continuously. I looked in and saw the worst, it was seized. but the bike actually ran relatively well, so I decided I would run it with "No Boost" for the rest of the summer. The bike was really slow so it was hard to not tear into it. The first issue was the taillight, after a couple hours with a power probe, it was grounded improperly by the previous owner, the wiring was all messed up after fixing it the lever switch worked, but not the pedal, so I got ripped off by my local shop for 65 dollars for a new pedal switch. I took off the fairing and decided to run it as a streetfighter for the rest of the summer as the fairing was falling apart. there was another electrical problem though, it would not turn over, and after replacing the battery (The old one was cooked, thanks PO) it would still not turn over, i traced it to a chafed wire creating a dead short. fixed that and it had electric start again. with the tank off, I noticed the previous owner had put in some auxiliary relay, and a bunch of scottie jacks, after a lot of soldering, the wiring was 100% again. I changed every oil (and filter) in the bike and they all looked like they had been used for 2 times as long as they should have been. It has always had a smoking on start issue that I blamed on the rings and the side stand, so i bought a center stand to replace the broken one the PO sold it with, but it didnt fit because the PO put a 160 on the rear :nono , so i added some oil stabilizer (didnt help) and went on riding it, but it still smoked and I was okay with it because I really didn't have anything to lose. It was now street legal, and although it looked HORRIBLE, I rode it with my motocross helmet up until last week.
EDIT: also changed fuel filter and cheap emgo headlight, and none of the gauges were hooked up by the PO (Boost....etc)
I have now started looking into the bike and tearing it down, it is filthy and ive been cleaning the parts I take off. But the turbo has all of my attention, after I removed all the bolts, I had the compressor housing removed, but the CHRA was just stuck into the turbine housing, I had to use an oxy acetylene torch to heat up the exhaust housing and use a porta power with all 10 tons to split it, and the CHRA went flying, unfortunately upon impact, the compressor impeller was ruined, it was already lightly bent on one blade, but now it is junk.
When I looked at the turbine impeller, I knew it was the cause of the seizing, it had literally 2mm of carbon buildup on it, I beleive this is a byproduct of the oil burning on start, because im sure it smoked when the previous owner rode it. so, a message to all turbo owners, IF YOU HAVE A TURBO BIKE MAKE SURE IT DOES NOT BURN OIL, ALSO USE UNLEADED FUEL, to reduce the carbon deposits in the turbo which have caused me a lot of headache.
The IHI RHB52 VC19 turbo was put onto the second gen turbo bikes by luftmiester, it is a bushinged turbo that is super simple, my turbo had about 3mm of both axial and radial play. I have my turbo completely dissasembled and am ready to put a rebuild kit in it, it is really simple, but you need a microscopic snap ring tool.
Rebuild kit that MIGHT work (Ill figure out)(will need different snap rings) = http://www.ebay.com/itm/Minor-half-kit-for-IHI-RHB5-RHB51-RHB52-Turbo-Rebuild-Repair-Kit-/271401680499?hash=item3f30ccfe73:m:mrDRjOvlW3hC8WnnHFQ1hHQ&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Minor-half-kit-for-IHI-RHB5-RHB51-RHB52-Turbo-Rebuild-Repair-Kit-/271401680499?hash=item3f30ccfe73:m:mrDRjOvlW3hC8WnnHFQ1hHQ&vxp=mtr)
My plan for the bike is to turn it into a retro-neo queered-out racer with very modern components, but it will have NO chrome and have very moderate aesthetic touches.
To Do List:
Get Compressor wheel and compressor impeller for turbo
Rings on all 4
Repaint some engine parts and the intercooler
Paint tank and queered-out seat
wire speedo and headlight
repaint rims (Gunmetal)
New horn
Make rear frame loop
Refinish crank and head covers
Media Blast a lot of parts
new tires (maybe whitewalls)
Clean EVERYTHING
Clip ons
Spline lube job
new K&N filters
Cut or remove fenders
Make new peg plates**
New cover for inside the head cover (thing that says BMW)**
Make queered-out Seat Pan**
Upholster seat
Custom Exhaust (straight pipe from turbo, will be baffled)**
**= I have access to use a cnc plasma cutter and I am very good at CAD and will be making these parts out of S.S
LOOK HERE
I am planning to use this speedometer
http://japan.webike.net/products/21744359.html (http://japan.webike.net/products/21744359.html)
Im having trouble interpreting RHB's thread, could someone please tell me the bare minimum I would have to do to make it work. I will also be using a warning light bank if anyone could give me advice on that
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Welcome to the funny farm. Looks like you have a nice project on your hands.
Let me say that for a 17 year old working as a mechanic you have have an impressive grasp of the English language including both spelling and grammar, much better than nearly all your age. I am especially impressed by the fact that you correctly spell "lose" with a single "o".
Here's looking forward to following your project and helping wherever possible.
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Thank you very much, its good to know there are people who dont judge my mechanical knowledge based on my age. I have been working on dirt bikes for quite a few years now and I am excited to start a real project. Side note, if my spelling or grammar is ever askew, its only because I was rushing or anxious to work on my brick!
I have many photos to post, but I am having a lot of trouble getting them in my post, whenever I try to post the attachments, it "uploads" for a few minutes. When it finishes it takes me back to the reply page and does not post my reply. I am working on it though, and expect them soon.
Thanks!
-Ben
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I have many photos to post, but I am having a lot of trouble getting them in my post, whenever I try to post the attachments, it "uploads" for a few minutes. When it finishes it takes me back to the reply page and does not post my reply. I am working on it though, and expect them soon.
Welcome, Ben.
Your photos are too large; that's the problem. You shouldn't upload them straight from your phone or camera without resizing them first. Be sure that they're 8" width or less, for starters. Do that and they should upload ok.
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Welcome to the asylum from the land of OZ. Sounds like you have your head screwed on you should do well.
Regards Martin.
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Turbo Pics
The sediment came from the turbo filter.
There is a wastegate photo in there as well.
Thank you Laitch for the advice
And thank you Martin for the kind words.
The photos of the bike with the yellow fairing were photos from when I got the bike.
The one photo of the bike on the jack is how I rode it for 2 months.
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Welcome! Any plans to remove the airbox? Just curious
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Welcome! Any plans to remove the airbox? Just curious
Yes! but I am not sure how to do it yet, some have thrown cone filters on the individual throttle bodies, but I cannot do that as It would not allow me to utilize the boost.
Also, for clarification the tools in the 6th photo are not mine, I am much more organized. :bmwsmile
In the end, I would like the bike to look something like this bike, but without the frame mod and a little more modest.
http://www.pipeburn.com/home/2015/10/14/bmw-k1100rs-cooters-cafe.html (http://www.pipeburn.com/home/2015/10/14/bmw-k1100rs-cooters-cafe.html)
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Look into mega/micro squirt. Might actually help you a lot since you have a turbo bike. It's by no means plug and play but it's a way to eliminate the mass airflow sensor.
https://www.diyautotune.com/
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Did I say mass airflow sensor? I think I meant air flow meter :2thumbup:
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Welcome. Quite a project. I am glad that you are trying to save a basket case :bmwsmile. Good luck. Apparently you have been bitten by the mechanical bug :hehehe. The design in this bike will not disappoint you.
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Good luck with the project! Very impressive wrenching skills for your age.
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Dude, you ain't real! Why so much effort spoofing us? We know who you are! :euro
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We know who you are!
He's probably Ben from Vermont, isn't he, Ace? There is an outside possibility he could be Svetlana from Ukraine, though.
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Jack Geiger, duckytrans, thank you! I appreciate the generous replies, good to know some people are interested in my project!!
Racket, thanks for the advice, very looked into mega/microsquirt and I'm a little confused about how it works (ecu s and electrics are my weakness). Also, saw the 500 price tag and can definetly not afford it! I am not super concerned about eliminating the airflow sensor, but I would like to remove the big black box that goes between it and the throttle bodies, (it's bulky)
And trueace, I'm super confused, not real? Svetlana from Ukraine?
My name is Ben (occasionally Benny), I ride a 2015 yz250 and drive a ford focus. I am a senior (took my senior photo about an hour ago) at Champlain Valley union in hinesburg vt and I am looking to attain a mechanical engineering degree.
I don't know if it was serious or a joke, but if it's a joke, anyone care to explain?
And for the project, I next plan to face my fear and wire a speedometer
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Dammit, Laitch, you are just unleashing your Yankee Faulkner (again)! :2thumbup:
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Beyond confused
And if you still believe it is svetlana from Ukraine, here is a photo of my broken Arm and my motocross jersey
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Beyond confused
If you're confused now, wait till you do the speedo. Have you looked into getting a BEP 3.0 from Marcus (aka Maru). His box makes wiring an aftermarket speedo a lot easier on the K bikes
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yeah! I have, if you are talking about the one from Maru labs. Unfortunately, it's not only 170 dollars, but it is big, I am looking to make the speedo (60mm) fit in a hole in the headlights bucket, and I don't think the box thing will work.
What do you think racket? Do you have one?
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And if you still believe it is svetlana from Ukraine, here is a photo of my broken Arm and my motocross jersey
I think Svetlana broke a stiletto heel once but I never saw a photo of it. I used to work at Iroquois ages ago, Ben, so I know CVU, and a teacher or two there, also.
I think you should look at this—if you haven't already—concerning the headlight situation (http://k75retro.blogspot.com/2013/09/adapting-motogadgets-speedometer.html).
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Ha, sorry, for some reason it just dawned on me that you're just in high school and might be on a bit of budget! Well, I believe rbm is the leading authority on "aftermarket speedo in a headlight bucket on a K bike" subject matter (amongst many other things). Not entirely certain how he did it or if he used one of Maru's brotboxes. As for the "big black box" between the airflow sensor and the throttle bodies, are you referring to the plenum chamber? If so, you'll want to add another item to your fabrication list. I think maybe the K1100 plenum chamber will fit the throttle bodies and attach to the air box? Maybe? You might find it more aesthetically pleasing, but in case you couldn't tell I'm entirely uncertain if it will fit.
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Hey Ben, just read you're posts.
I got into bike mechanics at your age because I wore mine out repeatedly.The initial interest took me on to do a degree in mech eng.a serious bit of study that.
The brick motor is inspirational.All the best.
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Haha laitch, I learned to swim at iroquois in 2003, cool to know there are some other brickers around, I saw a silver/champagne rt in colchester one time, and another one time. But I forget what it looked like.
Racket, I hate to admit that I have a deficiency in mechanical intellect, but I do not know what a plenum chamber is. If you are referring to the thing the crankcase breather is attached to between the airflow sensor and the throttle bodies (kinda like an egr) my crankcase breather is not attached to it as I think with the boost it would pressurise the crankcase.
Dude, thanks! I started building rc cars when I was younger and moved on to dirt bikes, very excited to tear into the engine. Thanks again for the positive remarks.
-Ben
Thanks again for the advice guys!
-Ben
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According to the little micro fiche for the K100, they actually refer to it as an "air accumulator." Anyways, I'm not sure how the turbo bikes are setup so I don't want to lead you astray, but I'm certain someone here can chime in.
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Haha latch, I learned to swim at iroquois in 2003,
Actually, I was referring to the truck body factory up the road from CVU. I suppose you could have learned to swim in the old mill pond there. You probably learned at the lake though. :giggles I just saw the photo of your driveway burnout on the green bike, and the other stuff on that page. You're looking at a great future!
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Thanks Racket, that brightened my Google search, yeah "the box" is the air accumulator, and where the breather would be attached there is a cap which I figured was because they didn't want to pressurize the crankcase, but what do I know. So the only function of the box is to split the intake into 4 throttle bodies, which could be done by some interesting hose thing.
Thanks again
Haha laitch, yeah, I know that iroquois too, and for the record, I was changing the tires, sprockets and chain, and the clutch plates after I did that burnout!! The burnout warmed the oil up so I could change it. Also a week before I sold it. Oops
Thanks laitch I appreciate your very kind words and appreciate your help!
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Dude, you ain't real! Why so much effort spoofing us? We know who you are! :euro
Don't read to much into anything posted here. When Martin or I say welcome to the asylum, we mean it :hehehe. Basically, a bunch of intellectually sharp, mechanically inclined, older men here...with lots of inside jokes. I was the youngest until you showed up :clap:. We all just love the K and the design that went into her. Their many incarnations (touring, sport, cafe, sKambler, turbo) are a statement on their versatility :bmwsmile.
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+1 We have more nuts here than a Kingaroy peanut farm. You will develop a thicker skin, it is part of life, so be grateful for the education. But the accrued knowledge found here is priceless. Sit back relax and enjoy the asylum. :popcorm :hehehe
Regards one of the nuts.
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. . . for the record, I was changing the tires, sprockets and chain, and the clutch plates after I did that burnout!! The burnout warmed the oil up so I could change it.
When you enter university, Ben, consider taking a minor in Law with your engineering major. That's an adroit defense of a burnout! :giggles
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+1 We have more nuts here than a Kingaroy peanut farm.
I actually do maintenance work at a local roastary. The small batch, dry roast peanuts are good but I hold out for the EVO roast cashews. :lets-eat:
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:2thumbup: Cashews :lets-eat:
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Thank you all for the welcome to the forum! especially those of you making peanut references.
Laitch, There is never a good defense for a burnout! But I guess that's why a lot of people do them.
But, to my project, I have two questions:
1. My bike smokes when left on the side stand, I understand this is nearly inevitable. But my bike is high mileage and I would like to do something to prevent the "Dragons Breath", I don't want to bore it out. I actually would like to keep my pistons, is there a place I can get just rings that will seal better than my worn ones? Also, is there a chance I have a leak in my valve seal? do Ks have valve seals and do they commonly leak?
2. What do you guys think the best way to refinish some beat up head and crank covers?
Thanks for the advice!
-Ben
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Try leaning your bike to the right for 30 seconds after you have switched it off. You can't really bore them out the bores are Nikasil lined. If the smoke worries you put it on the centre stand. As for the covers wet and dry of various grades working from coarse to smooth. Then buffing wheels on a bench grinder. If they have got deep gouges fill, sand and paint, Rustoleum satin black is a good match for OEM finish or can go out there with the classic crinkle finish it covers a multitude of sins.
Regards Martin.
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But my bike is high mileage and I would like to do something to prevent the "Dragons Breath", I don't want to bore it out. I actually would like to keep my pistons, is there a place I can get just rings that will seal better than my worn ones?
LOOK HERE
I am planning to use this speedometer
http://japan.webike.net/products/21744359.html
eIm having trouble interpreting RHB's thread, could someone please tell me the bare minimum I would have to do to make it work. I will also be using a warning light bank if anyone could give me advice on that
65K is not high mileage. Your bike's condition is likely a product of neglect, not high mileage. Until compression, vacuum and leakdown tests have been performed on the engine, its condition is unknown. You didn't write that you have done any of those. The piston rings may just need exercise. If the bike is parked in an ever-expanding, glistening pool of its own lubricants, that might indicate a problem.
Park it on a K1100 centerstand—once you find one—when it's not going to be ridden regularly.
Regarding the speedometer and the RHB thread: Who is RHB? Why are you buying a speedometer that doesn't have instructions in English? What is it about that one that makes it so attractive?
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Who is RHB?
I'll guess rbm ...
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I'll guess rbm ...
Maybe. :giggles If that's the case, that already is "the bare minimum." :hehehe
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Hello again,
I would have responded last night, but I was watching the "debate"
Yes, I was referring to rbm, I apologize for that.
And for the oil issue, I have a centerstans, but the po put a 160 on the back, so, until I change the tires, I'm on the side stand, but I do plan to change tires over the winter. But I really don't want to be burning any oil, I'm burning a ton, I definetly want to do the rings, but do you guys think 29 year old valve seals could be an issue? Also, if you guys have changed rings before, could you please help me find a place to purchase them?
Thank you
-Ben
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Also, I like that speedometer because it is digital, small, and a tachometer and speedometer and odometer
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How much oil are you using? My K100RS was getting about 6-700 milles to a quart of oil and you could smell it in the exhaust. Compression looked good, but I didn't do a leak down test.
Last winter I changed the valve stem oil seals, and after a summer of riding, the bike still pretty much uses the same amount of oil, about a quart every 800 miles.
The next stop is rings, but figuring the job is going to cost at least $400 and that can buy enough Rotella to go over 50,000 miles I'm going to pass and just ride the hell out of the bike, especially since it still runs like a beast despite the oil usage.
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I definetly want to do the rings, but do you guys think 29 year old valve seals could be an issue? Also, if you guys have changed rings before, could you please help me find a place to purchase them?
Any old part can be an issue, Ben, that's why tests are done to determine if they are an issue. This is one site you can use (http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/PartsFiche.aspx) to identify parts and part numbers, then you can buy from them or go shopping with the number.
They're relatively nearby and delivery is pretty quick.
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Looks like a repair kit is $61 per cylinder. Plus, you know, completely pulling apart the engine.
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Has anyone ever bought a new engine block or attempted to build a brand new K100 engine from dealer parts?
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Has anyone ever bought a new engine block or attempted to build a brand new K100 engine from dealer parts?
Highjack. :nono
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Highjack. :nono
Yeah you're right :dunno
My bad!
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Also, I like that speedometer because it is digital, small, and a tachometer and speedometer and odometer
You should add its field reliability, adaptability to the bike and quality of support into that equation before you get carried away by looks and price, Ben. Looks and price work well for the dating scene though. :hehehe
About oil consumption: check out p. 58 of the 1984 K100 riders handbook. They might have quit publishing that tasty performance detail by now.
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Hey Ben,
Wanting to break into the motor is only natural but it can become an excersise in satisfying your curiosity without actually sorting the possibly imagined problem.Some people use synthetic oils early on which prevent the rings from bedding in...some people don't or won't thrash their motors enough.One possility is that the bores have been damaged from too much pinking(preignition)....
Give the bike a good thrashing for a tankful and use a 25 mm slab of custom wood to rest your centre stand on for now.
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How much oil are you using? My K100RS was getting about 6-700 milles to a quart of oil and you could smell it in the exhaust. Compression looked good, but I didn't do a leak down test.
Last winter I changed the valve stem oil seals, and after a summer of riding, the bike still pretty much uses the same amount of oil, about a quart every 800 miles.
The next stop is rings, but figuring the job is going to cost at least $400 and that can buy enough Rotella to go over 50,000 miles I'm going to pass and just ride the hell out of the bike, especially since it still runs like a beast despite the oil usage.
I was probably burning a quart about every 400 miles, but I do not want to be blowing oil into my turbo. I guess I will have to pull the engine apart and figure that out. Thanks!
Hey Ben,
Wanting to break into the motor is only natural but it can become an excersise in satisfying your curiosity without actually sorting the possibly imagined problem.Some people use synthetic oils early on which prevent the rings from bedding in...some people don't or won't thrash their motors enough.One possility is that the bores have been damaged from too much pinking(preignition)....
Give the bike a good thrashing for a tankful and use a 25 mm slab of custom wood to rest your centre stand on for now.
I dont think it was detonating, but It is definetly a possibility, I was really easy on it this summer just because the bike was super sketchy, What can these bikes safely rev out to? Thanks, and I am trying to get the 160/centre stand thing figured out currently.
Looks and price work well for the dating scene though. :hehehe
Haha fair enough, I am only concerned about the turbo after witnessing the gruesome sight of at least 20k of negligence.
Yeah you're right :dunno
My bad!
Hijacks are fine at this point, this thread will be quiet for about another week and a half when I start the speedometer wiring endeavor.
Any old part can be an issue, Ben, that's why tests are done to determine if they are an issue. This is one site you can use (http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/PartsFiche.aspx) to identify parts and part numbers, then you can buy from them or go shopping with the number.
They're relatively nearby and delivery is pretty quick.
Thanks!! Good site.
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Try leaning your bike to the right for 30 seconds after you have switched it off. You can't really bore them out the bores are Nikasil lined. If the smoke worries you put it on the centre stand. As for the covers wet and dry of various grades working from coarse to smooth. Then buffing wheels on a bench grinder. If they have got deep gouges fill, sand and paint, Rustoleum satin black is a good match for OEM finish or can go out there with the classic crinkle finish it covers a multitude of sins.
Regards Martin.
Useful Information, thank you. I didnt know about the Nikasil thing. And thanks for the advice on the cover finishing, will definitely do.
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I'm surprised at the the 160 tire on the snowflake rim.
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well ben i previously posted twice but they seemed to have disappeared my pity is on you as i too tried to buy this from a bipolar man in maine but after a month in a half of haggling he twice blew me off on day of pick up he also bragged to me that it ran and drove perfect but i could not test drive it i was to buy it for 1900 i hope you did better as parts for turbo system are hard to come by. If you decide to change systems i might be interested in buying complete turbo system let me know thanks dan 1-203-675-3761
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Sorry
well ben i previously posted twice but they seemed to have disappeared my pity is on you as i too tried to buy this from a bipolar man in maine but after a month in a half of haggling he twice blew me off on day of pick up he also bragged to me that it ran and drove perfect but i could not test drive it i was to buy it for 1900 i hope you did better as parts for turbo system are hard to come by. If you decide to change systems i might be interested in buying complete turbo system let me know thanks dan 1-203-675-3761
Sorry, I never saw your previous posts, they didn't show up!
And, OH MY GOD, the guy was such a douchebag, I didnt mention it because he belongs to this forum as well, but he consistently boasted about a bike which was clearly clapped out, like buddy, im not a naive 17yo!!! Consistently speaking condescendingly, calling me "kid". He made it impossible to schedule a date to pick it up, also he kept trying to guilt trip me into paying full price, like I am not financially smart because im 17?? I was in a buying position on a bike which had been for sale for months now, and he was being very belligerent. Like I said, I had to ship the bike because it was a 4 hour drive and his schedule changed a lot. Apparently, "everything worked" :hehehe, does that not include the lights, all the gauges, the center stand, turbo, wiring, and a million others? The "Turbo Gauge Upgrade" was a crudely drilled hole in the knee plates with a loose, unhooked, nonfunctional boost gauge plopped in it.
Needless to say, I was very upset!
And Dan, I am currently not planning to sell the turbo system, If I do, I will let you know.
-Thanks!
Working on Speedo logistics!
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HE WAS ONLY SLIGHTLY BI-POLAR only text no phone calls and only once a day in the morning after his work shift one day all nice the next ranting and raving and being obnoxious the next day saying no im not mad at you why would you say that im kinda glad i didnt go there and fork over the 1900 we agreed on i wish you the best of luck just remember the only good part about it was that it was the best version of the luft turbo made so it is worth rebuilding and preserving and its good for over 150 hp again awesome project but if you want out of the turbo set up let me know thanks again and keep us updated on progress
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Mini Update for you guys,
I've decided to do the engine before the speedometer and firstly I wanted to check the compression before I pulled the head. All cylinders blew 165-170 except for cylinder #2, which had 95, I am going to currently assume that it is valve SEATS and that when I do a valve job, the issue will be resolved. So, I pulled the head, and everything was filthy, the head bolts/studs were VERY tight. I am going to pull the valves, clean all the carbon from the combustion chamber and piston (there is a lot) and then check to make sure the valves are true, then re lap the seats, and put it all back together.
AND, do valve seals. I am going to use these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-K100-K100RS-K100LT-K100RT-K-100-RS-LT-RT-VALVE-SEALS-VITON-/302033533548 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-K100-K100RS-K100LT-K100RT-K-100-RS-LT-RT-VALVE-SEALS-VITON-/302033533548)
ALSO, the cylinder crosshatching is great. Will post pics later.
-Ben
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AND, do valve seals. I am going to use these
"best on the planet" He doesn't say which planet though, does he Ben? :giggles
Good luck with this procedure.
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Valves look great!
Thanks laitch! Hope the seals are good, I'll report back
Pic of an intake valve post lapping.
Also, can I please have someone's 2 cents on k100 head gasket longevity? Mine looks good and they are expensive.
Thanks!!
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:nono Do not reuse the head gasket, they are required to compress in order to seal. The odds on getting one to seal again is extremely low. You would then have to disassemble the engine and replace the gasket, do you really want to go down that track. :nono
Regards Martin.
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You mean the odds of getting one to seal is low.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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You mean the odds of getting one to seal is low.
Maybe he means th' odds ay gettin' a body tae seal ur law.
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Thanks for the advice on the head gasket guys, I bought a new one.
But, I am in trouble right now with my valve and crankcase covers, HOW DO YOU STRIP THE PAINT.
I have tried aircraft paint stripper and it does not work well, should I buy a different brand of stripper (Rust Oleum) or do something else?
Would media blasting work?
Thanks,
Ben.
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Thanks for the advice on the head gasket guys, I bought a new one.
But, I am in trouble right now with my valve and crankcase covers, HOW DO YOU STRIP THE PAINT.
I have tried aircraft paint stripper and it does not work well, should I buy a different brand of stripper (Rust Oleum) or do something else?
Would media blasting work?
Thanks,
Ben.
Have you tried the Mar-Hyde aircraft stripper? I've bought it from Advance Auto Parts before. It actually is intended for stripping paint from airplanes, unlike the Rust O Leum stuff
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Have you tried the Mar-Hyde aircraft stripper? I've bought it from Advance Auto Parts before. It actually is intended for stripping paint from airplanes, unlike the Rust O Leum stuff
I did, but I got the KLEAN-STRIP "Aircraft paint stripper" and I used 3 coats without prevail. little puzzled.
2 important questions for you seasoned professionals
1.should i use spray engine paint or automotive airbrush for my valve cover and crankcase cover??
2.What are the stock shim sizes for the intake and exhaust lifters?
Thanks!!
-Ben
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2.What are the stock shim sizes for the intake and exhaust lifters?
You should get better acquainted with the MAXBMW parts fiche, Ben. This is the link to your bike's model and year. (http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51752&rnd=07012015) In the category Literature on the left side of the page, scroll to Diagram #11_1775 Timing Gear-Intake Valve/Exhaust Valve then click on it. #10 in the parts list that will appear on the right side of the page gives you the breakdown in sizes.
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Rustoleum satin black is a good match for the original finish.
Regards Martin.
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Martin, Thank you, I will look into that can.
Laitch, Thank you, but I should have made my question more clear, I have 8 shims, 4 of them are 2.50 and 4 of them are 2.55, leading me to beleive that the valve shims are stock, what do you think is intake and which is exhaust? Thanks!
I apologize for making this more of a Q&A thread, but I have 2 more questions.
1. What is the biggest tire width I can use on a y spoke rear tire and a k1100rs center stand?
2. Does sidewall asect matter?
Thanks!
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Valve shim size is pretty irrelevant, what you are aiming to get is a clearance of .006 to .008 on the intake valves and .010 to .012 on the exhaust valves when the engine is cold. Due to the fact that Turbo engines run hotter the clearances which I have shown could be slightly larger you will have to check with Luftmiester. Unless you are going to remove the camshafts while adjusting the shims, special tools are required. These are available through polepenhollow on line or you can make them if you have the tools to do so.. How to adjust them is available in the manual or on this site. But as a starting point I would put the thinner shims on the exhaust lifters.
Regards Martin
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Martin, thank you very much, I will be rebuilding the engine next week, but right now, the tank and covers are at the painters awaiting paint, then it will start to look like a motorcycle again.
Before I rebuild the engine, I would like to make sure my rings are in good shape, What is good installed ring gap on a k100? Im sitting at .320mm and I dont know if I dont know if i should Replace.
Thanks again guys!
-Ben
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(http://www.motobrick.com/Themes/2015-default/images/icons/clip.gif) BMW_K75_K100_Repair_Manual.pdf (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2252.0;attach=1883;ts=1367445160) Kindly available from this site. Piston ring information available in the pdf I section 11-09.Top compression ring 2nd compression ring and oil scraper ring all have different end gap specifications which is available in my Haynes manual. If you don't have a manual you should have, some people say the Clymer is better. however any is better than none. In OZ the Clymer manual is pretty thin on the ground, a mate has 4 Haynes no Clymer, I have one early Haynes and one late one. So please download the above manual, they do have an advantage in that you just print the relevant section as needed, if its still clean keep aside. If you keep your bike long enough you will end up with a printed manual. :hehehe
Regards Martin.
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I own Serial number 3 of 20 that were made in 1986. ( The costs back then was in the high $4000 range plus a day and a half for installation) which is mounted on a 1986 K100RS that was found sleeping in a barn near Chicago for a long time.
I know where serial number 18 is ( Located in VT ) and another one in SW NY State. Yours will make four that are survivors.
What serial number is embossed on your turbo and does it have a split intercooler or a solid one piece one?
The solid intercoolers were know to overheat thus the design change to a split one.
They are very rare.
Don
Mystic, CT
860-460-3282
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They are very rare.
So Don,how does it go?
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When you roll it on at 50+ you better be holding on . If your not the bike is going to leave you sitting in mid air. :eek: :eek:
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When you roll it on at 50+ you better be holding on . If your not the bike is going to leave you sitting in mid air. :eek: :eek:
Haha, it was so slow when the turbo was siezed!! cant wait to get everything rebuilt and ride it next spring. cool to know someone is knowledgeable about the bikes!! like to see someone else's turbo one day, I spotted another K over the summer and I really wanted to chase him down, but the red light took forever!
i see a 24 on the turbo but i dont know if thats the right #
i have the split intercooler! (http://www.motobrick.com/Themes/2015-default/images/icons/clip.gif) BMW_K75_K100_Repair_Manual.pdf (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2252.0;attach=1883;ts=1367445160) Kindly available from this site. Piston ring information available in the pdf I section 11-09.Top compression ring 2nd compression ring and oil scraper ring all have different end gap specifications which is available in my Haynes manual. If you don't have a manual you should have, some people say the Clymer is better. however any is better than none. In OZ the Clymer manual is pretty thin on the ground, a mate has 4 Haynes no Clymer, I have one early Haynes and one late one. So please download the above manual, they do have an advantage in that you just print the relevant section as needed, if its still clean keep aside. If you keep your bike long enough you will end up with a printed manual. :hehehe
Regards Martin.
thanks again martin, great info. i have a clymer manual but i leave it with my bike (not at my house)
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also donmystic, i think they put different turbos on the redesigned models, i have an ihi rhb52 vc19
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also donmystic, i think they put different turbos on the redesigned models, i have an ihi rhb52 vc19
I think Don already said that in post #67, Ben, but I suppose it bears repeating. :giggles In fact, I think you and he have the same style turbos. :mbird
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The serial number should be on the intercooler. (see photo )
There is another number embossed on the turbo itself. which is an IHI turbo
Mine is Serial number RHB5048448 and is also a VC19
While the serial number of the turbo kit is ?? 850003
You have the same turbo as mine a RHB5 with the spec of VC 19.
XS Turbo Boost in Ohio found a lot of corrosion inside the turbo caused by exhaust gases and had to polish the surfaces to regain the sealing ability of the oil seals and turbo vanes.
You also should take off the end cap of your Luftmeister Muffler and pull out the baffle. It will need repaking as it gets saturated with oil. See Picture. I Hve plenty of packing material if you need it.
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Rustoleum satin black is a good match for the original finish.
Regards Martin.
Thankyou, bookmarked! :clap:
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Hey guys, I'm attempting to get a machine shop to resurface my cylinder head, bmw does not provide the spec about the max surface you can take off. Anyone have any experience with this?
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Hey guys, I'm attempting to get a machine shop to resurface my cylinder head, bmw does not provide the spec about the max surface you can take off. Anyone have any experience with this?
Why does the head need machining?
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Couple small knicks, and some head gasket material
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Couple small knicks, and some head gasket material
How about posting some photos of these nicks, Ben, and their relationship to the sealing surface as a whole?
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Old head gasket material can be carefully scraped off, small nicks can be removed again carefully with a flat fine wet stone and kerosene. The important thing is that the head is not warped. To check you will need a straight edge run it the full length of the head and check for gaps. Then run it diagonally from both sides and check for gaps, use a feeler gauge to measure the gaps. It is also important to remove and replace head bolts in the correct sequence and use a torque wrench.
Regards Martin.
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well, Im back. I have been working on the bike a lot, but I have not been documenting it. The last you guys heard from me is the head nicks and my resurfacing of the head. I took about half a thousandth off the head, and it looks good, I also re-lapped the valves, replaced the valve seals, and pressed the valves in, but I was missing a lower valve spring retainer, i instantly ordered one off the fiche, and it got here 20 days later, and they sent me an upper valve spring retainer :( I called in a rage and they expedited one from Germany, im waiting on it right now and if its wrong im going to freak out. I got the speedo in my headlight bucket, and the headlight in. My circuitboard from rbm will be here soon and then ill wire everything. I painted my valve and crankcase covers along with my timing chain cover and my inter-cooler myself in gloss black with white pinstripes. I am having a painter do my tank and rims. I am also sending my turbo to XSboost so they can machine out my compressor housing and fit a new compressor wheel and turbine shaft along with a rebuild kit. I serviced my wastegate yesterday and got it really clean, also painted some rubberized undercoat on the headers to protect them. All thats left is to wire, reinstall turbo and head, and make a cafe seat. Pics below.
If anyone has a spare lower valve spring retainer, please let me know if you woild be willing to sell and expedite it to me. I should have asked here earlier.
Thanks and sorry for the delays.
-BenI think Don already said that in post #67, Ben, but I suppose it bears repeating. :giggles In fact, I think you and he have the same style turbos. :mbird
Just read this, I read #67 and i dont think he said anything turbo codes.
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Pics
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Rubberized coating on exhaust headers won't it burn off? :dunno
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Pics
Wastegate before
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Painting
Btw, splines look great!
And ugh, Martin I'm so dumb sometimes! Thanks for the point-out
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Painting
Btw, splines look great!
And ugh, Martin I'm so dumb sometimes! Thanks for the point-out
Looking good mate. How did you do the white BMW and pin stripe? Do you finish painting it all black, then mask everything off, then paint the white over the top of the black paint?
And are you using rattle cans?
Cheers,
Nods
Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk
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Looking good mate. How did you do the white BMW and pin stripe? Do you finish painting it all black, then mask everything off, then paint the white over the top of the black paint?
And are you using rattle cans?
Cheers,
Nods
Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk
Thanks! Means a lot, I was afraid I'd get a lot of "shuld have kept it original".
I am airbrushing, on this I used white primer and activator, then masked and sprayed gloss black with activator and hardener at 8-1-2. I masked with painters tape and a razor blade, painful process, could have used better tape, came out pretty good! So the white showing is actually primer.
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Nice one I reckon it looks great. Did you blast the covers to prep them or sand them?
Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk
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I soda blasted them, then finished with some 400 wetland and cleaned, got about 85% of the paint off but what was left was a good base. The stock paint is so tough I'd say you only would have to scuff and clean to get a good paint. Also used some bondo to fill some holes. Thanks again for the optimism on my project.
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I found a local medical supply place that sells surgical scalpel blades in different styles. Really sharp and I do mean really really sharp they are great for cutting the tape around the letters etc. They fit into one of my craft knife handles. I just went for a ride down there and picked up ten at 60c each, they are old old stock and they now only have one box left. I also found that they had those really long cotton wipe sticks with really huge ends so I bought their remaining stock of 100 they have had them since 2005.
Regards Martin.
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I found a local medical supply place that sells surgical scalpel blades in different styles. Really sharp and I do mean really really sharp they are great for cutting the tape around the letters etc. They fit into one of my craft knife handles. I just went for a ride down there and picked up ten at 60c each, they are old old stock and they now only have one box left. I also found that they had those really long cotton wipe sticks with really huge ends so I bought their remaining stock of 100 they have had them since 2005.
Regards Martin.
Would have made the job 1000x easier.
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So, I finally got the German part today!! I was in talking my head and cams and when it came time to do the valve timing, I was running into issues with the chain tension and the marks. First of all, the notches in the cam go straight up right? The Clymer makes it confusing. My issue is when I line them up and try to make the chain tight on top, I then make it tight on the bottom and it moves, very aggravating!! Any advice greatly appreciated, thanks.
Also where does this washer go in the lower cam chain tensioner? Thanks again. Sorry about this!
-Ben
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Washer
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painting the inner cooler is counter productive to its purpose by putting so much paint on it it cannot transfer heat properly effectively killing its charge cooling ability light coat of flat black or leaving it alone isthe most efficient pretty intercooler equals lost horsepower
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This is a cool project. I'm curious about how the white will look...I'm sure it's going to be stunning.
You know about 3m fine line tape? It's about the right width.
Nice work...wish I had a turbo! :riding:
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Oh, duh the white was the primer...nice paint work.
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First of all, the notches in the cam go straight up right?
If what you intended to ask was if the notches in the sprockets align with the joint between the head and crankcase and are pointing toward the intake side of the head, the answer is yes. If you are asking something else, I don't know the answer. Have you tried putting a wrench on the camshaft flats when you're tightening down things with your third hand?
If only I could have had a digital camera that I could have used to make images of assemblies before takedown that were instantaneously available when I was reassembling engines 50 years ago. Polaroid film was too costly. :giggles
Maybe you'll get one. Anyway, that washer looks like it might be the one that is under the clip that holds down the tensioner on its post. The perspective is slightly skewed.
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Brilliant, Laitch! :clap:
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Washer
Sometimes the parts fiche can give you a hint:
(http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/Diagrams/B0000146.png?v=12082016)
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Wow guys love the feedback so much, jc55 thanks so much!
Laitch and gryphon, thanks guys really helped me I was so stressed it was hard to function.
Laitch thanks for the write up helped me a lot when I was timing it! Ive got it all timed up now, I aligned the notches in the cams with the seam between the head and the camshaft retainers. Looks correct in my Hayes manual, does that seem right?
Thanks for the pic gryphon, washer fit well there, and for the description laitch.
I'm constatlntly impressed by the instant advice that comes from you guys at such a quick rate.
So, ive got one last question which brought my progress to a screeching halt tonight, how does one preload the cam chain tensioner? How tight should it be? I feel like my spring is doing nothing, only the preload? My Clymer says nothing! Thanks guys this one really puzzled me and my coworkers who know nothing about bmws. Thanks, and I'm so sorry about how many questions I've asked rather than documenting my progress, "Ben's technical q and a thread"
Finally, BAMBAM
Depends on how you do it, intelligently or not, as long as you only paint the very surface of the cooling fins you affect the actual raw aluminum surface area by probably less than a percent. Also, if you mask the fins until the final coat like I did, you barely add width to the fins, only slightly affecting the airflow. Yes, you are correct though, it likely robs horsepower, but, personally I'd rather eat one less taco tonight and regain that power in power/weight.
Thanks guys!
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Love to positive feedback on the white pinstripe! Here's a pic! (Don't worry, will soda blast the dirty aluminum soon!)
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i also was curious why the primer was high gloss white and was it specific for aluminum parts as that is required for good adhesion and all the paint will last longer if made for high temp best of luck looks good so far
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The cam chain tensioner is spring loaded with a ratchet. This gives the basic tension on the cam chain and when the engine is not running.
The actual tension comes from oil pressure when the engine is running. The cylinder where the spring is held is also a hydraulic cylinder that uses the engine's oil pressure to put force on the chain to tension it.
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The cam chain tensioner is spring loaded with a ratchet. This gives the basic tension on the cam chain and when the engine is not running.
The actual tension comes from oil pressure when the engine is running. The cylinder where the spring is held is also a hydraulic cylinder that uses the engine's oil pressure to put force on the chain to tension it.
Okay, perfect thank you so much, I will preload the cylinder to give the chain basic pre load, and clean the hole in the back to promote oil flow. Thank you!
i also was curious why the primer was high gloss white and was it specific for aluminum parts as that is required for good adhesion and all the paint will last longer if made for high temp best of luck looks good so far
Yeah, I probably should not have primed the fins directly, I didn't clear coat it and figured that would help, but I don't really know. I had a can of black paint. I used it the way I thought would work the best and we'll see If there are any negative reprecussions. Thank you, I plan on making a lot of progress soon, so it will be cool to see if it shapes up the way I'd like it to.
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Engines don't require high temp paint. They don't get hot enough. Your brake calipers can get hotter than your engine.
Heating up parts before painting them seems to help move the 'heat range'. If you paint an engine at 125 degrees vs 65 degrees and shocking it at 250 degrees. I've seen pros do this on 300k builds.
3m fine line tape may also match your fins. It's great for pinstriping and doesn't bleed through.
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Rustoleum satin black is a good match for the OEM engine finish. Easy to apply and reasonably durable, and not effected by the engine heat.
Regards Martin
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I recently discovered another option for the engine or any other black parts. Flat or satin black engine enamel covered with Dupli-Color matte finish clear coat. The clear gives an almost perfect matte finish and is an awful lot harder than the plain enamel.
The finish schedule is two coats of the black about 30 minutes apart followed by two light coats of clear 5 minutes apart with a final medium wet coat of clear. The final coat should done within one hour of the last black coat. Parts are dry to handle in one hour, to assemble in 24 hours and reach full hardness in seven days.
If necessary, you can do a very light sanding with gray Scotchbrite or 600 grit between the first and second clear coats to smooth out any roughness and get a satin smooth finish with the final clear coat.
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Well, I feel like a douche for constantly asking you guys questions, but I almost through the meat of this project and I have the engine reassembled and I have theseen clips, and I don't know where they came from, could one of you please tell me?
Thank you so much
-Ben
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Fuel injectors
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Fuel injectors
Thank you!
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I recently discovered another option for the engine or any other black parts. Flat or satin black engine enamel covered with Dupli-Color matte finish clear coat. The clear gives an almost perfect matte finish and is an awful lot harder than the plain enamel.
The finish schedule is two coats of the black about 30 minutes apart followed by two light coats of clear 5 minutes apart with a final medium wet coat of clear. The final coat should done within one hour of the last black coat. Parts are dry to handle in one hour, to assemble in 24 hours and reach full hardness in seven days.
If necessary, you can do a very light sanding with gray Scotchbrite or 600 grit between the first and second clear coats to smooth out any roughness and get a satin smooth finish with the final clear coat.
Thanks Martin, Gryph.
Gryph - regarding the engine covers, transmission, block, etc what primer do you use? Are there different products to be used such as etch primer, spray putty, primer? It's been over 20 years since I've used a spray gun in anger, and I've never done it with rattle can.
And when you say "or any other black parts" does that include plastic such as the front fender for this method? Does plastic just mean a different primer?
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I give the parts a good cleaning with degreaser then sand or wire brush with my Dremel to get the loose paint and corrosion off of the aluminum parts. Then I do a treatment with aluminum jelly to cleanup the corrosion followed by aluminum primer.
Steel parts get an overnight in white vinegar followed by a rust converting primer. If the pitting is bad some high build primer and maybe some Nitrostan putty.
Then the paint goes on.
Of course, I am talking about mechanical parts like engine and frame. Cosmetic stuff like the fairing and other body parts get an entirely different treatment. To answer your question about FLEXIBLE plastic parts like front fenders, the main difference is to use an adhesion promoter as the first coat on bare plastic. Rigid plastic gets high build primer.
I don't use rattle cans on cosmetic parts. Rather I do the base coat with one part paint shot through a cheap airbrush(time consuming, but practically impossible to f-up) followed by clear applied by a local collision shop in their booth.
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+1 on the airbrush, but make sure your compressor is pushing out dry air otherwise use the disposable air cans. At times my compressor puts out too much water due to the high humidity found in QLD. My water trap can't cope. I'm due to get another air brush, mines about 30 years old, they are slow but it's hard to stuff up the paint job and they are super economical on paint. Practice on a bit of scrap to get you technique right.
Regards Martin.
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I get these moisture filters at Harbor Freight. Use them for the job and then toss them. Just a bit of insurance to catch what gets past my water trap.
http://www.harborfreight.com/disposable-inline-moisture-filter-68224.html
I have a pair of quick disconnects that I use to install the moisture filter at the end of the air line where the air brush hose connects to it.
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Your teasing me Gryph we don't have Harbour Freight. :musicboohoo: I did have a look for them on Ebay and can get something similar from China though not throwaway. Do you think they would cope with 90% humidity?
Regards a jealous Martin
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90% is pretty bad, most paint won't cure properly at that level. I would look for a rechargeable desiccant moisture trap. You can make your own with a large water filter housing and a couple pounds of molecular sieve desiccant. You can dry the desiccant in your oven by heating it on a tray to 350F for an hour. Put the dryer ahead of a good filter to trap any dust that may be released by the desiccant.
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I tend to wait for the humidity to go down. And since moving up here I have used pressure pack paints and air brush with disposable air cans, although the local car parts shop Supercheap no longer stocks the air cans or air brushes. I will probably try a local big hobby supply shop for both. You see Gryph we might not have snow, but there are still disadvantages to living in paradise, humidity and tropical rain ( read torrential unable to see). Thanks for the tips.
Regards Martin.
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Hello,
I have a few more questions and I'm wondering if you guys could please help me finish reassembling my bike!
Also, idk why the forum changed every queered-out word to queered-out but a least do it right, queered-out does not work grammatically, queer would have been better, but nice try ;).
Can anyone tell me where this grommet thing Iso supposed to go? It's on the mass airflow sensor wire.
Also, where does this fuel line go?
Thanks!
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Ben you need to reduce the size of your images not downloading properly.
Regards Martin.
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Any better?
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Also, idk why the forum changed every queered-out word to queered-out but a least do it right, queered-out does not work grammatically, queer would have been better, but nice try ;).
Yep, Ben, some kinda funny going on here...kinda like in Washington. Maybe not funny-haha either :bmwsmile ?
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Also, idk why the forum changed every queered-out word to queered-out but a least do it right, queered-out does not work grammatically, queer would have been better, but nice try ;).
Put another way, it's slang, Ben. Slang doesn't need to work grammatically.
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Hate to get in a grammar argument here, but I feel slang does need grammatical agreement. Queered-out racer does not sound right, queer racer would have been better.
What is it slang for?
How Is it an idiom?/what do you mean by its an idiom?
Either way, change my thread name back pls
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What is it slang for?
How Is it an idiom?/what do you mean by its an idiom?
Either way, change my thread name back pls
Slang is a way for groups to create a language with special meaning for themselves, among other things. Sometimes slang gets accepted by a wider range of people. Think of it as shorthand—if you know what that is—or shortbread if you like cookies. Slang works as well grammatically as pls does.
When someone says something is sick do they mean it is cool or do they mean it is ill? If they mean it is cool, how cool—40ºF or cooler? Do they mean they like it? If somebody is freaking out, should they instead be freaking in? If something is the bomb, should Homeland Security be called? And so on.
You've shown initiative with your title. :clap:
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You're right Benspen. But culturally speaking, queered-out did not come from a US hacker. I have money on the fact that an Eastern Canadian purist did it. Why? It's partially corny and childish in an innocent way but non harmful. Partially childish from stateside would be some obscene vulgarity and due to our extreme custom car and motorcycle culture, it wouldn't have crossed our minds.
So, am I right? :popcorm
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So, am I right? :popcorm
I don't think so. :popcorm
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well okey dokey here boys, not at all what I meant, but lets move on because the 17 year old never wins.
Im going to make a video soon about the bike, current standpoint, and whats to come.
I know that the line I had was an auxiliary fuel pressure regulator vacuum line.
But, the primary line that has the spring on it from the stock fuel pressure regulator, does that need to be a specific material or can that be generic tubing? does it really need the spring?
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0281/8612/products/IMG_8251.JPG?v=1461877788) (https://cognitomoto.com/products/integrated-led-frame-loops)
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well okey dokey here boys, not at all what I meant, but lets move on because the 17 year old never wins.
Now, now, Ben. Take heart! Travel over to the Richmond True Value. There's a sign on the counter that reads, "Hire a teenager while he still knows everything." If that isn't affirmation, what is?
The fuel line should be fuel-injection rated hose. The spring on the hose is probably to inhibit kinking in bends where it is installed.
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The line with the spring is the vacuum line to the regulator. It is supposed to provide some kind of manifold feedback to the regulator to adjust the pressure for high loads. Or is it low loads?
Anyway, there isn't any fuel in that line, and you can use plain old vacuum line from the auto parts store.
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Ben -- that is an awesome job on your bike.
In a nutshell -- if there's something the site admin doesn't like, he replaces every occurrence of that word in every post with 'queers'.
If you want to learn more about this phenomenon and have 10 minutes to completely waste, read this thread, and don't be offended if you find yourself in a group of Wankers!
Keep up the great work -- I wish I'd have done useful things like that at your age instead of the useless things I actually did do.
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I see. I didn't know it was an inside job. Wow Ben, you're 17? That's awesome work for anyone let alone a 17 year old!
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I see. I didn't know it was an inside job. Wow Ben, you're 17? That's awesome work for anyone let alone a 17 year old!
Thanks! Appreciate it. Looking to make a cool[size=78%] queer bike![/size]
Motorhoo,
Thanks, I get the admin thing now. Thanks, good to know I've got some readers![/size]The line with the spring is the vacuum line to the regulator. It is supposed to provide some kind of manifold feedback to the regulator to adjust the pressure for high loads. Or is it low loads?
Anyway, there isn't any fuel in that line, and you can use plain old vacuum line from the auto parts store.
Perfect, that's what I figured, I'll try and find some replacement spring as mine broke, thank you.
So, I plan on making a video and uploading it to youtube solely for the purpose of this forum, it's gonna be an outline of the project and what's to come and where I am. I don't know if it's gonna be and more good idea or not, but it'll be a lot easier than typing on my old laptop and uploading gigantic photos off my phone
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Tubing*
Stumbled on a lot of words, I also sounded really confident! I was in a rush, actually very stressed!! Rambled on big time!
Part 1=https://youtu.be/NYTGWgSmM-g
yootoob part 1 (https://youtu.be/NYTGWgSmM-g)
Part 2=https://youtu.be/1c-UJ5Kho5U
yoootoob part 2 (https://youtu.be/1c-UJ5Kho5U)
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I just watched video part 1, Ben. It's organized pretty well for an extemporaneous effort. Did I hear that you were making an overflow from the coolant reservoir?
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No need to be defensive in the videos ben, :bmwsmile . My first youtube videos were a learning experience for me. I think mine are getting better :dunno . You are making good progress. The bike is yours, DO what YOU like. I think that if the turbo is pulling "right" you will be surprised with the power. Keep at it!
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Don't cut the boot off the MAF plug! It goes into the airbox and keeps it sealed, use some silicon lube to help get it back in.
Edit: finished watching video, you don't have the airbox because turbo, duh. Feel free to take that boot off.
Watching pt 2, you talk about running your turbo exhaust through the frame right where the clutch cable runs...
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Edit: finished watching video, you don't have the airbox because turbo, duh. Feel free to take that boot off.
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Thank you! Just the answer I needed
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Which antigravity lithium battery do you guys think will work best?
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Its been a while, so I figure I owe you guys an update (no pics today, Sorry!).
So, I got my turbo back from Dave at xsboost, they did a fantastic job cleaning it and it looks perfect on the outside and the machining they did was top notch.
Currently, I have my Koso all wired up and and the TPGI v4 wired correctly (finally).
Today, and yesterday I have been tirelessly tigging a part cone part mandrel stainless exhaust system. Next weekend I am going to shape my aluminum seat cowl and hopefully sort my rear frame loop issue.
after that, its all about painting, matching my scheme, running some primer to base black to clear, then wetsand and buff.
then its all about crossing ts and dotting is
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I've read that... "use non-resistor plugs only with stock high resistance wires... Low ohm aftermarket wires should be paired with resistor plugs."
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Its NOT! done yet. As none of you know this is a senior project for my high school, so I had to throw it together to ride it to school to present! feel free to ask any questions.
What still needs to be done
Fix the exhuast (Square it in the hole in the seat)
obviously do a better job with the battery mounting, I was going to put it under the seat, but it was too close to the exhaust, must re think
Fix and tidy all my wiring
buy a new speedo sensor (Anyone have one??)
Add more resistance to the flasher relay
revert my changes to the fuel sender :(
wring er out to set the rings
create an actual shift linkage
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Pictures
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:2thumbup:
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Looking better all the time! :bmwsmile How about larger pictures?
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I'm getting some real photos by a friend of mine who is quite the photographer, like I said, it's not done, I have attached the only large photos I have
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Who's Leila? And where did you get the M badge for the intake?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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:2thumbup:
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Looks awesome! Well done!
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Thanks a lot guys! More pictures to come! I got the m badge off eBay, I find it to be a little cheesy and may remove it....
Thanks again!
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Well done on an ambitious project.
I hadn't noted your post before (don't spend too much time here and new to the club as well).
In regards to your earlier mention of oil accumulations within the turbo and other areas and consumption - another point to consider is the drain plumbing off the turbo. Not sure you're aware the original manufacturer of your system has a pretty well documented site where you can gain all sorts of information - RB Racing. They sold the product to Luftmeister, & some interesting history there and business carnage. Regardless, their popular method to scavenge the oil from the drain and back into the sump was a clever "Check Valve" & Tee'd internal sump arrangement that took advantage of the oil pump suction bell. In effect the engine oil pump applies suction to both the oil in the sump and the plumbing on the turbo (as it is located well below where a traditional gravity feed would perform).
If a turbo isn't draining properly, it will pass oil into the engine to be burned or coke up. RB has a video depicting how to check that is working and probably worth a check.
Something else you might want to consider to confirm things are working properly would be a wide band O2 sensor and gauge to witness air fuel ratios. The RB system control was a pretty simple approach, but if afr's go astray especially leaning out when in boost then your hard work and restored engine will not do well. Ultimately (and I make no pretense of hiding my endorsements) but a Microsquirt or Megasquirt to control everything is the best way to guarantee your turbo bike is running properly in all states and conditions.
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but a Microsquirt or Megasquirt to control everything is the best way to guarantee your turbo bike is running properly in all states and conditions.
I had recommended this earlier in the thread, but OP wished to stay on a budget and a $500+ MS system blows that out of the water pretty quickly
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I had recommended this earlier in the thread, but OP wished to stay on a budget and a $500+ MS system blows that out of the water pretty quickly
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Fair enough and you'll note I offered that advice with the word "Ultimately" in recognition that many if not most will never venture down the MS pathway (and with good reason as it is a technical endeavour requiring utmost adherence to detail and specifics).
However, if you wish to play you may eventually have to pay.
The original systems did a pretty good job maintaining timing and fuel control for a naturally aspirated engine, those same systems with a piggy back fuel regulator addition etc. may not necessarily follow suit - especially under even the suggested 8psi of boost. Detonation potential is real and devastating in a few seconds to an otherwise healthy motor. At least with an O2 gauge and sensor you are able to keep tabs on things and know if you're playing with the devil.
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Below is a link of sorts ** for the RB test on their internal "turbo drain" suction device (seems like the sound may be broken). Without their explanation, during the first test the line is left hanging with a plug on it for free drain flow to accumulate in the tupper-ware. The 2nd part is with the plug removed from the line and it sucking oil back to reservoir while turbo drains into vessel.
The other method that was used to properly scavenge the oil out of the cartridge back into the pan was with an electric gear pump (would be my choice on the low turbo mount as adding a port to the main oil pump suction bell seems to add a potential for aeration and possible issues with bottom end lubrication)
This is on a K1200 where turbo is rearward, but similar tech:
Link is finicky, and wouldn't paste so I'll just link the page and about 3/4 way down you can click on this image for the movie
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/bmwK1200.html
If you have the internal suction tee and check valve set up, and during a test the oil builds in the drain tray faster than it is pulled away, then you might have oil building past the shaft seals and causing your oil burning/ coking etc.
Offered just in case you don't have this info.
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Who's Leila?
Seems that the bike may be working its magic already!
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Seems that the bike may be working its magic already!
Seems that the bike may be working its magic already!
If thats this bike's "magic" it was a waste of time
as for the megasquirt topic, I would love to get a megasquirt/microsquirt system, its very hard to understand the augmentation of the system, especially since the motorcycle does not currently run correctly. I will check back in mid summer when the bike is broken in and my wallet is a little more full :yes
as for the oil scavenging system, Ill have to check it, I just have to figure out how to properly plug the pan line. i had never seen that before and didn't know how in depth rb racing went with their engineering.
more pics to come....
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Most likely a male AN8 fitting - common North American supply item.