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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Mwilson904 on September 09, 2016, 10:19:53 PM
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Hello everyone, 86 k100 sat with gas for years, replacing fuel lines and injectors and plan to leave the pressure regulator alone and just run new lines from there.
Therefore, new fuel lines to injectors and tank, install refurbished injectors, everything in the tank but leave other fuel components in place including pressure regulator and throttle body. Finish flushing coolant and replace water pump seals, pull plugs and put a little marvel mystery oil at Pistons, change all fluids, replace battery, spray deOxit in electrical connections, and try to fire it up before going further.
Please give me your thoughts, should this suffice?
Thanks!
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. . . and plan to leave the pressure regulator alone and just run new lines from there.
Please give me your thoughts, should this suffice?
Getting a little antsy to start her up, huh?
You mean by leave alone, that you're not testing it, or what? The MMO application is a quaint touch. :hehehe Have you pulled the air box, cleaned it out, checked all the rubber components and the crankcase vent? If not, go back and check them if it doesn't run right.
It won't be long now. You'll be hearing the whine of Victory!
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Laitch I didn't think he was working on a Victory, I thought it was a Brick. :dunno
Regards a confused Martin
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Laitch I didn't think he was working on a Victory, I thought it was a Brick. :dunno
One man's abandoned Brick is another man's Victory, Martin. I read it in a book once.
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I personally wouldn't replace the fuel pressure regulator unless it fails. In my 16 years of bricking with K75s I've never had one fail.
Having said that, I've never owned a brick older than 1994. There's an Bosch non-OEM part listed in the Alternate Parts list in the Library. If you do a search on this site you'll see that there are very few references to the FPR failing or causing problems. For me, the easiest way to test it is to start the bike. If it runs and there are no other problems, you don't have a problem. The FPR isn't high on the list of 'things that can affect how a K-bike runs.
Having said that if you know how to test it, have the equipment to test it, and feel like testing it, then test it. Having said that, I can't stand people that start sentences with 'having said that'.
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Don't worry about the FPR, they rarely fail. You don't need to replace the injectors, they can be refurbished. But replace all the fuel lines. Get the set from Max. And make sure you use the correct clamps.
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if you are doing all that, I would also pull the throttle bodies and replace all the rubber gaskets between it, the airbox, and the head.
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If the bike was stored with pure gasoline, without ethanol, then those fuel hoses and FPR may be okay. It depends upon your budget, time and motivation, e.g. clean vs replace injectors, crank-n-ride testing vs individual item testing, diy vs hiring a mechanic, etc.
Everything looks clean/no leaks from the picture. The hose to check is the vacuum line covered with the steel spring coming out the bottom of the FPR.
Having said that, the place to look is inside the fuel tank. Was the fuel pump okay? Is the bottom surface pitted? Any pinholes ready to punch thru the paint?
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If the bike was stored with pure gasoline, without ethanol, then those fuel hoses and FPR may be okay.
except for the fact that they are probably original, 30yr old rubber. no matter what kind of fuel was in them, they must be replaced.
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i've got a couple of 30 yr old k75s running the original fuel lines--i only buy pure gas though
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Replace all fuel lines, extend the ones in the tank to the filter so you can lift it outside the tank. The injectors probably need cleaned, not replaced- your option. I have the original regulator of my '85 and there is nothing wrong. However, at least pull the pump from the tank and inspect the "filter" that goes on the bottom- that is most likely nasty. Beemer Boneyard has them. Inspecting that will also let you clean the tank sump it goes into. Don't forgo the insulation under the tank- early bricks were none for issues that were cause be heat under the tank.
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It's all a case of look and see
The smell of the fuel and the debris in the tank is a good start.
I had a shocker which cleaned up:
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8283.msg62701.html#msg62701
And if this is bad, the associated rubbers might need replacing - remember that the rubber fuel lines in the tank need to be submersible fuel injection fuel line.
Mechanical metal items might be fine - test / clean them eg injectors (see the post on this forum or Youtube for DIY cleaning, or if cost is not a problem, send them away) and regulator. Fuel pump can also be recovered again research (someone here took one apart and got it going, mate of mine soaked one in vinegar)
No ethanol fuels once you are plying the highways and byways of the world
Good luck with it all.
Regards
Guy
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No ethanol fuels once you are plying the highways and byways of the world
Gasohol will create problems in idle bikes and idle equipment if it isn't stabilized then replaced within six months or so. If you're out there daily plying the world's roadways, the bike can handle it easily.
The attached photos show the interior of my bike's fuel tank. The bike is stored six months a year with a tankful of stabilized 89 octane (AKI) E10 gasohol at temperatures from 30ºF to -30ºF for most of that time. The other six months it's ridden at least five days a week and run with the same type of fuel. When the bike is in storage, the battery is removed, put inside the house with the cats, houseplants, firearms, accordion and profiteroles, and charged once a month. The rest of the time it's on its own in the bike, outside, under a bike cover when idle, with no trickle charger. It's four years old.
This bike operates so well it proves to me daily how tough it really is. I'm starting to consider myself lucky that I have only one bike.
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Do you bring your battery inside for it's well being or yours? Does it appreciate the profiteroles?
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i've got a couple of 30 yr old k75s running the original fuel lines--i only buy pure gas though
doesn't matter what kind of gas. rubber dries out and cracks, especially when exposed to high heat like k75's see. 30years is WAY too long to trust any rubber hose...including coolant and brake hoses.
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30years is WAY too long to trust any rubber hose...including coolant and brake hoses.
As they used to say in the '80s, trust but verify.
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Do you bring your battery inside for it's well being or yours?
The accordion enjoys its company.
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doesn't matter what kind of gas. rubber dries out and cracks, especially when exposed to high heat like k75's see. 30years is WAY too long to trust any rubber hose...including coolant and brake hoses.
My bike still has all the original 30 year old coolant hoses, except for the overflow. They seem to have used some miracle rubber back then. I know I should replace them, but they just look so damn good.
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I know I should replace them, but they just look so damn good.
After the widespread usage of high-tech helmets, CE bionic armor, ABS, traction control, rev-limiters, GPS, Google Translate and Flowbees, about the only challenge left for bikers is to outrun their bikes' rupture-prone supply lines.
Live Free Or Die!
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Chaos I think how the bike is treated has more to do with longevity of the rubber parts than actual age. If the bike is garaged and the hoses are protected with an occasional wipe of protectant, the correct coolant mixed with distilled water is used, would seem to help more. Being exposed to sunlight, snow and road salt would definitely age the rubber. The only rubber I have replaced on my 24 year old Brick is fuel lines, but my Brick resides in a garage. Nothing ages a vehicle more than being out in the weather.
Regards Martin.
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Nothing ages a vehicle more than being out in the weather.
Balderdash! My bike is out in the weather but it's younger than your bike, Martin. Hah!
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Sorry Laitch you have an exceptional bike, a one off and is not included. Neither weather or alcohol effects it. :dunno
Regards a contrite Martin.
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Laitch you have an exceptional bike, a one off . . . .
:yippee: It'll make a great cafe racer!
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On your demise I hope that you and it will be donated to the Smithsonian. People don't deserve to be deprived of viewing such an awesome monument.
Regards a humble Martin. :musicboohoo:
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I hope that you and it will be donated to the Smithsonian.
They'll need to outbid Santa's Village.
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:yow Is he looking to replace his reindeer, and what will become of them? Do you realise how hard it is for reindeer to get employment?
Regards a sad Martin. :musicboohoo:
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I went ahead and pulled the regulator (if nothing else to get the old fuel out of it) I pushed about 40 lbs air through it just to make the diaphragm (or whatever is inside move)
Everything seemed fine, I already had the fuel lines, the existing were very solid and might have lasted another 30 years, but it's a cheap insurance policy. I inspected the breather, but didn't pull it, looked great until I got everything back together then I noticed some slight cracking on the left side so I will replace that later.
The injectors didn't look too bad, but sitting with old gas that that long I just replaced with refurbished to make sure.
I will carefully check the inside of tank during cleaning and before I put in the new lines,pump, screen etc. everything I ordered from beemerboneyard came right away, the few things I sourced from the local bmw dealer is a week out, water pump seal etc.
Thanks for the info on the alternative regulators, Oem online was over $160.00 so the alternative is the route to go.
The original fuel pump may be good, I did not test it, the original injectors may be good or could be refurbished, if anyone really needs them for their bike and are within the states I'd be happy to donate and mail them by USPO