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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: cgdan on August 31, 2016, 03:22:05 PM
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New shock turning up tomorrow, I was excited until I stumbled across the fables of k bike splines ( I am new to these machines). I am guessing they will be dry now as before last weekend it was last started in 2007 and last driven any distance in 1999.
After a bit of reading I was wondering if the whole wheel, brakes, swing arm and gearbox would come off in one lump so I could do the clutch spline with minimal disassembly? Or is that a false economy? I was imagining making some kind of supporting jig out of 4 x 2 timber.....
Thanks
Dan
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It can be done, but I imagine it is hell to align for reinserting the input shaft into the clutch splines. Also, you would lose the opportunity to check the paralever bearings and driveshaft for condition.
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There is a shortcut which involves replacing the 4 g/box to engine mounting bolts with 6" long bolts with the heads removed, replaced one at a time. With a dolly chocked to support the G/box ( or roller garage jack) you the move the gearbox back enough to access the clutch splines for cleaning and regreasing, it requires using a long brush. The method is posted in detail.
Regards Martin.
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New shock turning up tomorrow, I was excited until I stumbled across the fables of k bike splines ( I am new to these machines). I am guessing they will be dry now as before last weekend it was last started in 2007 and last driven any distance in 1999.
After a bit of reading I was wondering . . . .. Or is that a false economy?
As you stated you're new to these machines. You should consider doing all the procedures at least once to determine if they make sense, before exercising your genius on developing new ones.
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+1 Laitch it only takes about 6 hrs it also helps if you have a mate to help. Shorter headless bolts also help with the reassembly if you remove the G/box. When I have done this job I remove the wheel and the drive shaft and lube at the same time. It helps you bond with your bike.
Regards Martin.
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false economy....you need to pull the drive shaft and grease that anyway.
take it all apart.
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Sounds like taking it all apart has many other benefits too, many thanks for all the replies, better prepare myself for a long Sunday.
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Four weeks and two thousand miles after lubing the final drive I started having dry-spline shifting issues, so today I used the shortcut method to lube the input splines as detailed here: http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/clutch-spline-lube2.shtml (http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/clutch-spline-lube2.shtml). The most difficult part was finding M8 x 1.25 bolts long enough to use as guides. I used three that were 140mm long.
Took three hours total - next time will probably be closer to two. There was plenty of room to clean and lube the input splines. The output splines were not very accessible, however.
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d138/knm1225/DSC08458.jpg)
(EDIT: corrected thread pitch from 1.5 to 1.25)
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That's awesome. Lesson for me maybe next time.
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I have a note that the guide bolts should be M8 x 1.25 (thread pitch?) and with suggested lengths of 4" and 6". Is M8 x 1.50 the correct size?
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Sorry, it is M8 x 1.25 (not 1.5). I used three cap screws that were 140mm in length. They were in stock at Fastenal, and I used three as guides (two in the bottom and one in the left side). They were plenty long enough, but as noted above this method does not give good access to the clutch output splines.
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I just used some threaded rod (Chris Harris tip) that I could cut to any length.
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I just used some threaded rod (Chris Harris tip) that I could cut to any length.
From Chris Harris I think that would be the F***ing threaded rod that the G***D*** p***brains at BMW are too F***ing cheap to provide with the motorcycle?
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From Chris Harris I think that would be the F***ing threaded rod that the G***D*** p***brains at BMW are too F***ing cheap to provide with the motorcycle?
Metric threaded rod would be even harder to find around here (the US) than long bolts. I would think that sliding the transmission back and forth a few time on threaded rod would make those hole a shape other than round.
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I don't like the long bolt/threaded rod technique as I like being able to clean the clutch hub splines
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To be fair, as most people advised me, taking the whole lot apart wasn't that arduous and at least I could inspect everything.
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I don't understand the infatuation with shortcuts vs. doing a job as well as you can do it. To me it is a bit like marrying a pregnant girl to save yourself some work.