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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: Sit on August 09, 2016, 03:18:18 PM
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Ok, so this is my story. Been riding for a while now, started with an R1150R, sold it, got a R1200GS, sold it and got a K1200LT. Last year picked up an 89 K100RS. Love the RS. So the bug was kind of set, really like both bikes and enjoy working on them. I just do routine maintenance, but I like it.
So fast forward to a month or so ago, and I managed to pick up a 92 K75S for $550! I knew going in that it had driveline problems, engine ran fine, but no power to rear wheel, just an awful noise when the clutch was pulled. For $550, couldn't pass it up and figured it would make me leave my maintenance comfort zone and get deep into something.
Today decided to start looking at it. Prior to taking anything off, for giggles I put bike in gear and tried to turn the rear wheel. There was resistance, but I could rotate the wheel. I could feel it skipping the splines? And hear it, but I could not tell from where, or for that matter it could have been up further in the gear box. So I pulled the rear tire, and then pulled the final off. The swing arm and shaft are still on/in the bike. The final splines look okay? They do look rounded a bit at the tip, but the rest look square? I think that is good? Metal shavings in there though. The shaft does not look as good. I was hoping to get the driveshaft out without taking the swing arm off, but I don't think there is enough there to grab to get it to release from the circlip. So I guess that will be my next adventure, removing the swing arm. But in the mean time, what does the peanut gallery think of the splines?
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Toast. You know what you gotta do. That's why it was $550.
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Toast.
Unbuttered at that.
Get you a long handled channel lock or vicegrip, reach in and grab the driveshaft end with it then see if you can pry it out of the swing arm. If the driveshaft's welds at its other end are smooth enough, it should pop off the transmission shaft and slide on out of there.
You'll need to take it all down to the clutch nut for inspection eventually because maintenance seems to have been a low priority.
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Other than the splines that bike looks damn nice! Easily worth the $550.
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New driveshaft replacement available from Ted Porter's Beemer Shop at reasonable pricing. Good buy for that money. Easy fix.
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Final drive splines look ok from that angle.
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Thanks for remarks so far. Going to try to get the shaft and the swing arm off. Tempted to say what they heck and pull the transmission just to peak at the clutch and all of the splines and clean and lube it all. If just the shaft is gone I will count myself lucky.
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Final drive splines look ok from that angle.
except for that lonely tooth
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except for that lonely tooth
I think that's the driveshaft you're puncturing with that arrow and not the final drive.
Dentistry has never been my forté, Chaos but now you've deployed your arrow, I think I see saw teeth all around. Let's see straight into its mouth, Sit, with a little more definition and a little less gauzy dreaminess.
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Tempted to say what they heck and pull the transmission. . .
It's a must to do that, Sit. You might just save yourself a lot of money in the nick of time.
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Better angle?
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Better angle?
Lovely! Pull that thing out of there. Operators are standing by, waiting to help you with your order.
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If you give it a clean we might be able to see better. Is all that crud metallic, try a magnet on it.
Regards Martin.
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If you give it a clean we might be able to see better. Is all that crud metallic, try a magnet on it.
The glass is always half-full for you, isn't it, Martin :clap: but I'm plagued by darkness. To me it looks like somebody who was punched in the mouth with a mace or who was tortured with a juicer.
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Clean up that mess on the final drive side of things, Sit, and let us take a look. That thing must have been howling like an angry cat.
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I think that's the driveshaft you're puncturing with that arrow and not the final drive.
Dentistry has never been my forté, Chaos but now you've deployed your arrow, I think I see saw teeth all around. Let's see straight into its mouth, Sit, with a little more definition and a little less gauzy dreaminess.
well, the driveshaft goes into the final drive and they become one. And that tooth would be happier with some close neighbors.
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well, the driveshaft goes into the final drive and they become one.
A beautifully spiritual description, Chaos.
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There are no bargain BMWs.
(don't mind me I'm in a dark place as my bike seems to eat fuel pumps.)
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It takes about 100,000 miles of neglect,to get that....what does the odo say?
$550,that's so good!Chances are it's the original shaft,other end will be ok and clutch splines not too bad(salvagable).
Take it apart.It's not hard just committing.
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When you get this little shaft deal behind you, you'll see the good value in this $500 K.!
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Got the final cleaned up a bit. I think it looks good. Will work on getting the swing arm off and shaft out tonight or tomorrow.
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It does look good, Sit. You'll change its fluid. Splines should be squeaky clean and dry before they're lubed.
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Can't believe you only paid 500 for that. Steal of the year.
What is the bikes vin?
What part of the world are you in?
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Yup paid $550 and it came with bags, two oil filters, fuel filter and a clymers manual. Figure since everything works with my LT and RS the bike cost $500 or so.
Got the shaft out and the tranny end looks good, so I am going to at least replace or get the shaft rebuilt.
But, I was curious to find out if the noise was still present when clutch pulled. So I started the bike and it purred like a kitten, until I pulled the clutch lever and then all kinds of nasty noises started, high pitch whirring, grating sounds etc. So off comes the tranny now.
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So stand by to stand by. I am ready to take the transmission of and continue with my adventures, but my sawhorses are occupied right now and there is not enough room in my garage currently to dive in. Maybe in a week or so I can start taking things off again. Will update to what I find and the damage, the bike and wallet.
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No noise when the trans is spinning, but when you pull the clutch things get a bit noisy? I'm going to guess your trans is ok and that something is loose or missing in the clutch.
Keep an eye out for stuff that may fall out when the trans is separated from the engine.
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Think I found the problem.
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Smooooth!
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:yow How's the shaft.
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Shaft actually looks good I think.
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Could be an optical illusion but the lands on top of the splines close into the housing look thin.
Regards Martin.
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A straight-on shot should tell the story but they don't look too bad from here. I think the photo's angle may be distorting their appearance.
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Whoa. That's weird looking - looks like uneven wear front to rear. Is there an alignment problem?
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Whoa. That's weird looking. Is there an alignment problem?
I've stared at it enough now that it's starting to act like one of those portraits where the subject's eyes follow me around the room.
Are the locating dowels (http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/K100/download/K100-service-bulletins-and%20special-tools/21%20005%2086%20%282232%29%2Epdf) still installed in the intermediate housing, Sit?
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The spline have a diminishing taper from bottom up to case.......they are wider on both ends but look ground down as you get about 50-75 % up. Need more pics.
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Not sure what happened to the photo to make it look like that. Yes some of the splines to taper a bit in the middle.
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More pictures...... :dunno
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Will get a new clutch ordered up. Not sure about the input? Shaft.
On a minor up note, found an extra key for the bike in the belly pan.
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The driveshaft splines looked pretty bad but I think the final no-go were the clutch splines. I myself replaced my clutch disc because the splines in the hub were looking close to failure. I don't think I've read of a case where the trans input splines got bad enough to fail. Same for the trans end of the driveshaft...wear is most all with the final drive and that end of the driveshaft
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So I am ordering up a new clutch pack being the spring, pressure plate, clutch and housing cover along with the tid bits to put it all in. I see in the manual it talks about a tool to keep things from moving and I see that it mentions everything is balanced at some point and to mark things. I know I will be tossing everything that comes out. So is there anything I should be marking up before taking off the cover and starting to remove things?
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So is there anything I should be marking up before taking off the cover and starting to remove things?
No, not if you are installing a new clutch pack. The Clymer manual explain the clutch pack marks. As a balanced assembly, each of those new parts has a balance mark on it and when assembled the marks should be spaced at 120º. A clutch alignment tool helps keep the parts in alignment as the clutch plate is tightened. It's good practice to replace the main seal, the o-ring, the clutch nut, the clutch plate bolts and washers, and the clutch rod boot when dealing with a bike that's had sketchy maintenance history.
It helps if you put your general location in your profile so readers can direct you to sources for parts or information. You should have viewed the Chris Harris clutch spline lube video by now.
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Thanks. Yup, have all of that stuff on order except the main seal. Will look into doing that. I will try to watch the video before I get further into it. If it is the one I was watching before, the camera moves so much it gave me a headache something fierce.
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Once you have the new clutch disc I would be trying it on the shaft to see how much rotational slop is visible. Try it where it appears to be worn the most and where it is worn the least. If a lot of movement is visible you might look into a secondhand gearbox, I believe they can be had in the US for around $200.00.
Regards Martin.
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So is oil up inside here ok? The bell housing was dry when I began removing clutch but when I pulled the clutch housing off and took the o ring off, a little bit of oil showed its self coming from inside.
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Great looking bike, I hope the drive train issue(s) get sorted out.
Is that a Corbin seat?
Got one like it on my RT.
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Someone somewhere ... probably nearer than you will know (until you've actually got the replacement) has the parts in their garage.
I'm suspecting K bike owners just love to squirrel away important pieces for that time they'll need them.
But because they know they are valuable, they keep the maintenance up to the parts - eg spline lubes and they never end up using them.
Parted out the bike might be worth $1500 ... but you wont do that of course.
You've got the fever and there's no return.
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So is oil up inside here ok?
Oil should stay in the crankcase where it belongs rather that being flung around clutch parts. If oil leaked when you removed the o-ring, replacing it should end that. What did you use to remove it? Are you following your manual's instructions?
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Oil was behind the clutch housing. As the housing came forward and the o ring removed the oil came out of the area of the bearing. Just a tricklle. I think it is ok. Replacing the main for insurance.
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No test ride yet, but everything is buttoned back up. Bike starts and shifts through the gears on the center stand with no drama. Still need to get the belly pan on, it is presenting the most trouble of the entire rebuild so far. Once that is on, I will test ride it and see how she does. So far in parts and tools, less than the cost of the bike, $510. Total expenses so far, including bike - $1,060.
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No test ride yet, but everything is buttoned back up.
Congratulations on getting it together. :clap: It might be instructive for others if you summarize what you did—including the costs—and post a picture of the bike in its new state of vigor.
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For the work I just followed the manuals I have and went slow. I bought some pins/bolts from eBay to help guide the gearbox back on. They worked well for $14. Also bought a clutch tool and main seal driver from Ken Lively. As for parts I bought most from my local shop but did get main clutch components from motobins as they were cheaper even with shipping. The $510 in parts and tools includes a new roundel for the tail piece and k75 for the tail piece. I also replaced several rubber boots which turned out to be relatively expensive. Once test ride is done it is on to new fork seals and new front tire.
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Project no more. It still has some things to be done to it, but it is running and carried me where I asked it to and got me back home. Ok, it was a short test ride, but it worked as it should.
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Project no more.
Looking good! What type of exhaust is that?
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Staintune, was on the bike when I bought it.
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Sit nice bike, do your self a favour and fit a long mudflap or coat the front of your belly pan with truck bed liner. It will stop all the stone chips.
Regards Martin.
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looking good!
... but did get main clutch components from motobins as they were cheaper even with shipping. ...
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