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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: White Dog on July 31, 2016, 09:17:57 AM
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I put one of those tailBlazer modulator brake lights in my K75. As a result, the ABS warning light (large one on dash panel) never goes out, unless the brakes are applied. So what is going on? I removed the modulator and reinstalled the conventional 21W bulb and all is well. I did notice the base of the modulator was very warm when I took it out--too warm to hold in my hand.
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I use a Skene P3 led brake light add on. Zero issues with the BLM.
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I put one of those tailBlazer modulator brake lights in my K75. As a result, the ABS warning light (large one on dash panel) never goes out, unless the brakes are applied. So what is going on? I removed the modulator and reinstalled the conventional 21W bulb and all is well. I did notice the base of the modulator was very warm when I took it out--too warm to hold in my hand.
8/3 update. Kisan is aware of this problem and is sending me a modulator with what the tech called a "bleed off resistor" to eliminate the false reading I was getting with the brake warning light. Kudos to Andy at Kisan. It will be an even swap.
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8/3 update. Kisan is aware of this problem and is sending me a modulator with what the tech called a "bleed off resistor" to eliminate the false reading I was getting with the brake warning light.
Did the tech give you a model number for that modulator? I had a 20WS that triggered the bulb monitor light then it was swapped out for a 100HD and that model also triggered the light. That was three years ago. I'm interested in the outcome with the unit you're receiving and how you wired it. Their headlight modulator works well.
The Skene that mlytle is using seems like the way for me to go now.
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Laitch, from what I see about Skeine lights requires wire cuttting, whereas the tailBlazer is a simple remove oem bulb and insert the new bulb in the tail light socket. Did not compare prices.
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Laitch, from what I see about Skeine lights requires wire cuttting, whereas the tailBlazer is a simple remove oem bulb and insert the new bulb in the tail light socket.
Kisantech sent me the 100HD to replace the 20WS in an attempt to solve that bulb light monitor quirk. My bike doesn't have ABS. I did need to splice the brake light wire into the 100HD's module and attach an external gound wire into it as well. If what they're sending you is a socket-mounted unit and it works, that will be great. Please let us know the outcome.
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I think my Kisan will be another bulb setup. It's on the way so I'll know for sure when it arrives.
8/8 update. The bulb arrived and everything works properly. The tech called and told me most retailers only stock the conventional circuit modulator bulbs but if you tell them you want one with a by-pass circuit, Kisan Electronics can furnish it.
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8/3 update. Kisan is aware of this problem and is sending me a modulator with what the tech called a "bleed off resistor" to eliminate the false reading I was getting with the brake warning light. Kudos to Andy at Kisan. It will be an even swap.
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8/8 update. The bulb arrived and everything works properly. The tech called and told me most retailers only stock the conventional circuit modulator bulbs but if you tell them you want one with a by-pass circuit, Kisan Electronics can furnish it.
What's the model number of your bulb with the bypass circuit that successfully works now, White Dog?
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Same number 20W-S. You just have to specify you want one with the bypass resistor. These typically are not a "stock" item for most vendors. You may have to order direct from Kisan for one with the resistor. If you decide to go this route, ask for Andy in Tech Support.