MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: Angus Macgyver on June 19, 2016, 10:52:31 PM
-
The Velcro gloves are removed, the sheep are safe as they say down here in New Zealand.
Winter project time.
1984 K100 factory naked
Bike arrived on truck from down the line, previous owner said he hadn't used it for some time.
A quick ride round the block a few times, ran fine, then into the garage to be reborn.
History from what I gathered during pull down.
Previous owners were all cheap skates.
Some of the most horrendous DIY repairs I've ever seen. Plastic drain pipe glued into rubber boot splits, wires twisted together unsoldered, flogged out fork seals, sealant piled up to replace missing grommets, Harley Davidson handle bars ground down to fit the 22mm hand switches.
Plastics cracked on " pooh'ed up " repairs - ( pooh we call bog, or automotive panel repair filler)
Boat screws !!!!!! - I hate boat screws !!!!!!
I will say, the bike grew on me for its simplicity ( barring the cornacopia of electrical du dakkiz )
Very easy to pull down, ( unlike a Widow Maker Suzuki TL1000 ) room to actually swing a spanner ( unlike Japanese rice rockets ) and built sturdy, ( unlike Chinese dirt bikes .... )
Not a single nut rounded, not a single snapped bolt, even though they looked like they had never been touched before.....
No owners manual, just this forum and I had the bike completely stripped down to the engine in a day.
Thankfully my IPads wireless connection stayed strong all the way down to the backyards garage.
Every query I had, already discussed here with replies and solutions - fantastic !!!!
Wire loom cleaned up ( broke wire on fuel level sender only issue I came across )
I will be using factory instruments but seated lower and behind a street fighter front fairing
Replaced key ignition power wire ( looked bit melted from previous issue when frame rubbed through on steering head )
Engine booked in for soda blasting
Wheels were ok ( previous owner must have powder coated recently )
Transmission pulled , clutch and drive splines lubed ( no leaks yay)
Front forks rebuilt ( again easily done, no dramas, previous owner has installed spring kit )
Rear suspension looks sad, will hunt for replacement
Bike came with a Motad muffler but I'll use a 4:1 and a Yoshimura muffler
Rest is all usual surgery items
New steering head bearings
New wheel bearings
New fork seals
Clip ons
LED instrument upgrade
LED turn signals
50A alternator upgrade
Starter motor rebuilt
Twin headlight
Front fairing
Adjustable fuel pressure
MAFS big pod filter modification
Paul Smart Ducati tail unit
Braided brake lines
New radiator hoses
New fuel line
New breather hose
All new stainless hose clips
New manifolds
New swingarm boot
New clutch arm boot
Fuel rail cover ( hides that fugly fuel rail, wires and clutter )
Gen3 fuel injectors ( 4 spray holes )
Cut foot peg mounts ( no rear sets, NZ laws now too strict )
Shorten front wheel guard
Cut and shorten original rear wheel guard
Replace missing rubber grommets
Cut frame and tank side cover lugs
I will use the radiator and tank cover plastics ( cause these are rare as hens teeth ) hides that empty space when folks don't have these " rare as hens teeth " - cough cough...scored a second set..cough cough.
Some pics of the usual suspects.
-
No fecking rearsets!What about forward sets?
New Zealand laws now too strict.....Which one of them told you that?
I'll have to have a quite word with "them".
Let me know please.Use code' they're probably monitoring... now. :finger:
-
No fecking rearsets!What about forward sets?
New Zealand laws now too strict.....Which one of them told you that?
I'll have to have a quite word with "them".
Let me know please.Use code' they're probably monitoring... now. :finger:
Yip.
The low volume motorcycle certifier here in Auckland , Alex Gee is his name. He's a good guy, works very closely with bike shops and LTNZ.
So many rules now.
Even X raying welds on clip ons .....
No longer just low volume once off, it's for wof now so dot on indicator lenses headlights.
Any alterations to seat, handling, brakes requires low volume cert ....!!!!
Up to the builder if you follow the law.
I run bike business...so I have to for resale.
-
Bummer!....
Yip.
Up to the builder if you follow the law.
Oh well, that's allright then.....er, thanks.
-
Soda blasting.
Sent 32 years of muck away in the wind 😄
Once home, a quick wash down with water to neutralise the Ph level, cloth dry then fine spray of oil, then rub down with a happy ending....😂🎉🎉
More parts arrived at work from the UK, so assembly will can soon start on the engine.
I was going to use engine aluminium paint, but I like the raw finish the soda blasting produced.
Some corrosion and staining from past oil leaks will be hand polished out.
-
Boxes arrived at work, so skived off early and heading home to the cave.
Really not liking those factory manifold clamps, I will try to locate screw in adjusters.
Air box turned around and I will have the MAF sensor on left side or bike with large air pod ( purely cosmetic, can't see any performance gain though it does really open up the right side for viewing the engine.
Re tap crank breather connection or run a catch tank.
I made an alloy catch tank for my 150cc bucket racer, yes added weight and not really useful unless racing, but im fond of bling.
-
Rebuild the starter motor today.
Bit of a pain, the rebuild kit from eBay , the top post and brush was different than original, so I had to fluff around a bit swapping that bush over.
Bit of 1000 wet and dry clean up the contact points, bearing, seals, O rings.
Great thing about 32 years of caked on oil.... It protects the metal underneath.
Quick scrub N rub almost like new.
-
[quote author=Angus Macgyver link=topic=8503.msg65420#msg65420 date=1466572528
Air box turned around and I will have the MAF sensor on left side or bike with large air pod ( purely cosmetic, can't see any performance gain though it does really open up the right side for viewing the engine.
Re tap crank breather connection or run a catch tank.
I made an alloy catch tank for my 150cc bucket racer, yes added weight and not really useful unless racing, but im fond of bling.
[/quote]
What fun putting the air box on wrong.I love idiocy,when it's well thought through.
I,also,love bling as long as I don't have it.Your beautiful aluminium oil catch tank beats my effort,which I found lying in the ditch one day when I overfilled the sump oil on the Guzzi and found out the hard way.Works well...
-
[quote author=Angus Macgyver link=topic=8503.msg65420#msg65420 date=1466572528
Air box turned around and I will have the MAF sensor on left side or bike with large air pod ( purely cosmetic, can't see any performance gain though it does really open up the right side for viewing the engine.
Re tap crank breather connection or run a catch tank.
I made an alloy catch tank for my 150cc bucket racer, yes added weight and not really useful unless racing, but im fond of bling.
What fun putting the air box on wrong.I love idiocy,when it's well thought through.
I,also,love bling as long as I don't have it.Your beautiful aluminium oil catch tank beats my effort,which I found lying in the ditch one day when I overfilled the sump oil on the Guzzi and found out the hard way.Works well...
MAF sensor box gone, I like the pod filter look.
Mounting right side = hot engine air.
Mounting left side = cold air
There is no wrong if it fits 😄👍
There is only custom coolness points
Lol😄 Don't get me started on Motoguzzi's.....
Guzzi the Italian Harley Davidson.
Glad to see they finally designed a 4 valve/cylinder engine
That starter motor though.... 😄 Need an engine lifter to get it out.
I had the 1100 Sport
One clutch change on a Guzzi was enough to put me off for life.
-
It was just meant to be 😄
Will get custom air box connection made from 70mm to 60mm right angle.
Plug connection is in a good water proof position
Question is, will a fully clamped air box handle a bouncing MAF sensor off the side, even with an internal mount plate?
One can only but try.
Update:
Air box requires very little modification.
Easily done with a heat gun and 22mm bar ( old handle bar )
The aim is to heat the airbox edge that the throttle cable guide sits under and press the plastic inwards.
You are looking to see the plastic go glossy, this is the correct heat without damaging the plastic.
Apply heavy pressure to your 22mm piece of bar and roll/Rock like a rolling pin.
This effect pushes the plastic inwards.
Remove the two closest manifold rubbers
30 seconds heat with a thin nozzle tip to direct airflow onto the work area
10 seconds of firm downward pressure, rolling then hold down on your bar till plastic cools a little ( this will stop the plastic memory bouncing back to its old shape)
I had to use two hands and get my whole body on top of it ........... So don't be shy with the pressure
Rinse and repeat
Other ways to gain a few mm clearance:
Grind off the outer edge of the cable guide top and corners will gain 2mm
Change the angle of the cable guide by banging flat and re bending slightly.
Airbox was reshaped within 40 minutes
Don't rush it, take your time, the plastic is quite thick and does require a good bit of firm rolling/pressing
Light sand to flatten rough edges and repaint with truck seal/ bumper paint
( manifold edge was already creased from previous owners rough figment of manifolds ) The heat will not damage the manifolds because your nozzle tip keeps the heat within a very small area .
-
Yeh,I know,but I just lurve ma Guzz....mine's a pert little 850 'had it for thirty loyal years,the clutch is bullet proof (on them),so's the cranking motor,yes that's what I call it and the little tart is a hard arsed blast but,man,is it hard on my arse?
Now, back to reality.Your maf sensor will be fine hanging out there.It's design has an integral air damper. Nothing like syrupy cool,air for better mass flow through the engine upping the thermodynamic efficiency. :deal: 'Noticed how well they run when your wet n cold?
I'm keeping my brick standard as I view her as the good ol' missus,she's there to keep me in line,mostly.
All the best.
-
Yeh,I know,but I just lurve ma Guzz....mine's a pert little 850 'had it for thirty loyal years,the clutch is bullet proof (on them),so's the cranking motor,yes that's what I call it and the little tart is a hard arsed blast but,man,is it hard on my arse?
Now, back to reality.Your maf sensor will be fine hanging out there.It's design has an integral air damper. Nothing like syrupy cool,air for better mass flow through the engine upping the thermodynamic efficiency. :deal: 'Noticed how well they run when your wet n cold?
I'm keeping my brick standard as I view her as the good ol' missus,she's there to keep me in line,mostly.
All the best.
My other bricks stock.
Rode my Guzzi back from Christchurch to Auckland 2 days hard ride and I mean hard.
It's almost like Guzzi used a 4x2 and covered it with Rhino skin for softness. I was literally crow bared off the bike by my dad I was so stiff, everything aching, I think my wrists go left back in Wellington.
Awesome sound though, and when you crack the throttle at the lights, the whole bike lurches sideways 😄
-
Rebuild/repair gear position sensor.
# Silicon/sealer of your choosing
# Cheap Chinese starter solinoid cover ( those ones that pit bikes use )
Scrape old cracked top and old sealer out.
Re coat with new sealer
When dry, trim off the covers overhang with a razor blade, fit made in Vachina rubber cover, fits like a glove.
-
Replaced original black coil units with red cap versions from a later model
Replaced awful factory throttle body screws for stainless cap screws
50A alternator quick wire brush, ordered new set of rubber drive cushions.
Scored a very BMW cafe racer radiator overflow bottle 😄
Tidied up my loom again, much happier
-
Airtech Paul Smart Ducati street race tail unit arrived today.
You pay for what you get.
Beautifully made carbon fibre reinforced piece.
There was a 4 week waiting list but I am very happy with the shape.
The overhang works well with the K frame, giving a false appearance of a straight frame from tank to seat.
The tail scallops compliment the tanks, as does the width
There is a huge rear compartment that can house all the electrics and a Lythium battery..
370mm at the widest edge
620mm long
Seat pad area 200mmx300mm triangle.
( Battery in photo is just to hold seat unit down on frame until I hoop the rear and build the electrics tray )
Now the hard process of clearing my work bench 😄 /lol who am I kidding ( arm sweeps it aside )
-
Enjoying the thread! You are obviously living up to the name :bmwsmilehttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MacGyver (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MacGyver).
-
Haha nice.
The true Mac would have fashioned his own tail piece out of tin foil and chewing gum.
The previous owner used up all the chewing gum on the hall sensor cover :yow
( which has now been lovingly restored with the correct cork gasket and D rubber gaskets )
-
Looking gooood!
:popcorm
-
That seat unit is a thing of beauty .. I wish I'd have seen it before I bought mine
-
Definitely pretty, I hope the foam seat is good and thick. :2thumbup:
-
Exhaust collector update.
Well the wind and rain just won't stop, after 5 days away on business, I return to a small mountain of postal boxes and bike parts for the K100.
After returning the New Zealand made collector due to poor welding/grinding ( please see photos )
I used the refunded money to purchase another from overseas ( worked out about same price including shipping ) from the Cafe4racer website, to allow fitting of the 50mm Yoshimura sports muffler.
Compared side by side, I highly recommend the Cafe4racer one. A very good price, beautifully made.
Can't go wrong with a well made competitively priced part. Thanks Cafe4racer
First the NZ made one..... :mbird
Second the Cafe4racer made one :2thumbup:
-
Sad to see crap stainless fabrication from a Kiwi crowd.
Professionally,I used to use Classic Sheet metals in Henderson, Auckland,who were very capable and particular....It wasn't from them,was it?
-
Sad to see crap stainless fabrication from a Kiwi crowd.
Professionally,I used to use Classic Sheet metals in Henderson, Auckland,who were very capable and particular....It wasn't from them,was it?
No not that crowd.
I am not one to name names, but honestly, very poor workmanship.
Maybe the guy was just having a bad day?
The thing that gets me the most, was that he actually had the cheek to send it.
Like a factory second fished out of the rubbish bin.
If the milks smells sour, I ain't the kind of pussy to drink it :neener:
-
New rubber dampers for 50A alternator.
-
Installed Genssi type S adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
This regulator is well priced at around $30-$40, well made and has high ranked reviews.
With the large diaphragm , the unit is more than capable of keeping up with anything the K will ever hope to offer.
Very easy adjustment function but more importantly, with the engine open for viewing, bystanders get to gaze in wonderment at your oil filled glass gauge. :clap:
* Regulator can be mounted at any angle, the standard bracket is slightly too low for good hose clearance, though turning on an angle allows good clearance.
You could make up a new bracket if the vertical placement looks more appealing....
* Fuel resistant pipe thread sealant paste is a must use, also Loctite on the small mount screws that came with the kit.
-
That's nice.
It deserves being horizontal ,for the numerals and also brought closer towards the gob smacked observer.
'Couple of hose elbows needed as well,I guess?
-
That's nice.
It deserves being horizontal ,for the numerals and also brought closer towards the gob smacked observer.
'Couple of hose elbows needed as well,I guess?
Yes the kit only has the straight connections.
Horizontal with a new bracket I think will be a winner.
-
Hi Angus MacGyver,
I am down the road a bit in Hamilton and doing a K75 Cafe build this winter. My shop skills are no match for you, and my garage is poorly equipped, but I have managed a few home made items such as an inlet air manifold adaptor to allow a pod filter to fit onto the airflow valve. Also made up a radiator overflow tank.
Thanks for your posts, they are very good.
If you are passing this way anytime - PM me and you are welcome.
-
Hi Angus MacGyver,
I am down the road a bit in Hamilton and doing a K75 Cafe build this winter. My shop skills are no match for you, and my garage is poorly equipped, but I have managed a few home made items such as an inlet air manifold adaptor to allow a pod filter to fit onto the airflow valve. Also made up a radiator overflow tank.
Thanks for your posts, they are very good.
If you are passing this way anytime - PM me and you are welcome.
Nice one.
Will do.
-
Does that fuel pressure regulator make the difference when you open up the throttle? or it is just to make sure the fuel flow? thanks.
-
Does that fuel pressure regulator make the difference when you open up the throttle? or it is just to make sure the fuel flow?
This link (http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/K100/download/bike-wont-start1.htm) will take you to a good explanation of how this works, sj, although you might already know. The explanation with drawings starts after the flow chart. I think Macgyver's regulator performs the same function as a stock one but has the ability for its performance to be monitored easily.
-
I'm pretty sure the fuel pressure stays the same regardless
Sent from my HUAWEI MT7-L09 using Tapatalk
-
Ok, thanks guys.
-
Does that fuel pressure regulator make the difference when you open up the throttle? or it is just to make sure the fuel flow? thanks.
No.
An adjustable fuel pressure regulator would really only come in to play with a modified engine, fine tuning for track purposes, performance modified engine.
For me it was more of a bling accessory, the gauge needle that moves when the engine is started , fluctuates slightly when engine is under load.
The pressure can be adjusted via the pressure screw on the top and lock nut.
From memory, standard fuel pressure is 36PSI (3.5 bars on this regulator )
This regulator is well known for its small size but very large internal diaphragm.
More attractive that the factory original, adjustable for a better price.
I have since mounted the regulator vertical.
There just was not enough clearance on the regulators side outlet to mount a right angle hose push on connector.
So I've used it on the bottom.
Frame is currently under CAD ( cardboard aided design ) while I work out the seat pan, battery box and electrics position.
Weather has been very bad here in Auckland for the last three weeks, so progress has halted until it warms up.
The cold weather was effecting paintwork and causing blooming before I could rush them inside to my wife's Bosch paint bake over 😄
" It's what Bosch would have wanted" I told her
-
Tried a few right angle connectors and just could not get a good line up for the fuel line, so opted to fit the regulator vertical.
I modified a bracket to fit which gave an extra 25mm lift for better hose clearance and moved everything down towards the front.
I shortenend the frame and I will be modifying and re using the original off cut as it is almost a perfect fit for the Paul Smart Ducati tail unit.
I have ordered an Odyssey 680 military grade dry battery cell from America and the battery box.
This battery is a lot smaller and lighter than the factory original, I also know custom builders who have had more than 10 years life from their Odyssey batteries.
-
That's nice.
It deserves being horizontal ,for the numerals and also brought closer towards the gob smacked observer.
'Couple of hose elbows needed as well,I guess?
Vertical it is,then.Sometimes function forces form.Oh well,not bad!
Great battery metrics.Acceleration=Grunt\Mass.
Keep on keeping on.
-
Replaced original black coil units with red cap versions from a later model
Replaced awful factory throttle body screws for stainless cap screws
50A alternator quick wire brush, ordered new set of rubber drive cushions.
Scored a very BMW cafe racer radiator overflow bottle 😄
Tidied up my loom again, much happier
Just curious, but where are you planning to mount that radiator overflow bottle? I have the exact same bottle and is also using it for the same purpose.
-
Just curious, but where are you planning to mount that radiator overflow bottle? I have the exact same bottle and is also using it for the same purpose.
Hiya.
I purchased a carbon fibre holder from eBay that has some easy mount points.
I am waiting until the radiator and hoses are installed for final placement.
The right hand side has plenty of room once the MAF box is removed.
There are also left over bolt holes that can be used to fit an L bracket etc.
Just need to tap and glue overflow hose into the bottom of the bottle or a single hose down through top and then drill a breather hole.
-
Ok it has been a while.
Race events, work, huge rain offs and me being a lazy sob has slowed progress.
Frame build I cut and reused the original..... hell why not, it was almost a perfect fit, just a fraction too long.
Out with the hacksaw.
Removed original tank back mount as it got in the way. With it gone, I could slide the seat forward a fraction more for a better line from the tanks lower edge following the seats lower edge.
Spot welded in place to check it all.
Blocks will be made up, drilled and threads cut, which will allow me to fasten the seat unit to the frame.
-
Where in NZ? I was just down in Wellington for a few days.
Did see any bricks....
-
Where in NZ? I was just down in Wellington for a few days.
Did see any bricks....
Auckland.
I saw a brick today..... but it was on a trailer.
Perhaps another cafe racer in the making. Dark blue/black one, no fairing.
-
Where in NZ? I was just down in Wellington for a few days.
Did see any bricks....
Hey my toe,I mean mlytle,bloody spell checker!no,not you.
Welcome to NZ.what are doing here,so far from home?
There's Bricks here,alright.please keep this place a secret from the rest of the world,if you can!
-
Frame had the rear section shortened.
I reused the original hoop, added some brackets for seat.
Made a battery tray that could use the aluminium battery box that came with the USA military dry cell.
Frame was soda blasted then sprayed with POR15 hammer tough chassis spray ( gloss black )
Electric loom and fuse box reinstalled
Steering head new bearings
Seat mounts I used aluminium blocks drilled with 6mm threads then glassed into place onto the seat base.
The 2 mounts on top of frame by battery is for the top battery holder, I used steel tube, drilled and 6mm threads then welded into place
-
Forks ( remove the paint buildup on inside of triple clamps ) 😀
41mm clip ons
Fork gaters
Twin headlight
Radiator hoses
..........."............hmmmmm aftermarket speedo wiring up....... scary, will leave this till last once I've tested everything else with the original speedo.
Anyone with info on speedo wiring/safety bypass etc please let me know.
-
So yeah...... painted frame all scratched around :mbird
Will have to aerosol overhaul it later.
Bike finally back together enough to wheel out of the garage which required a huge clean up.
In my rush, I forgot the exhaust bracket :mbird .
Headlights I will adjust, as the angle is too high.
Approaching the speedo wire up........
-
The front end looks like a giant, menacing predatory insect, Macgyver. Well done!
:clap:
I can imagine this appearing in dreamwork tonight.
-
A Mantis! That's it, The Black Mantis!
All right, the thrill's over. Bedtime.
-
The front end looks like a giant, menacing predatory insect, Macgyver. Well done!
:clap:
I can imagine this appearing in dreamwork tonight.
Thank you.
You may have just found the new name for it. :2thumbup:
-
Just curious Angus, but what's your plan for tail light and turn signals for the rear end? LED light strip?
-
Just curious Angus, but what's your plan for tail light and turn signals for the rear end? LED light strip?
Hiya.
I have a curved licence plate bracket that attaches to the rear shock mount on the right hand side.
A rear brake light and licence light attaches to this.
5mm steel is about the maximum thickness you can get away with and still use the original shock stud.
Fleabay $35 aluminium ones like mine are about 10mm thickness.
I just cut the end off, drilled a 13mm hole and then milled it down by 5mm.
I have 4x mini bullet LED indicators
There are also still the original brackets under the seat at the back if I decide to go the LED light strip.
My only problem with these was that none had the EEC marks or numbers so would not pass a warrant of fitness here in New Zealand.
The LED indicators and brake light came from Germany so have the EEC numbers.
-
Nicely done Angus! I see some cheap ones being peddled on eBay. Keep the pics coming sir.
-
Angus you might want to replace the stud with a longer one. I can see thread exposed in the nut and you don't have a Nyloc nut or a spring washer fitted. Please look into this for safety sake, would not like to see the shock come of at any speed.
Regards Martin.
-
Angus you might want to replace the stud with a longer one. I can see thread exposed in the nut and you don't have a Nyloc nut or a spring washer fitted. Please look into this for safety sake, would not like to see the shock come of at any speed.
Regards Martin.
This picture was just a mock up for Ducky.
Still work to be done.
New shock etc.
I won't be using this awful nut😀
-
:2thumbup:
-
It has been a while.
Summer time and other bikes to ride so project time has been minimal.
Funny thing, I've spent a fare few days fine tuning the K100's running.
I could not for the life of me get a smooth rev range off idle, it felt very much like a manifold leak, but I had fitted all new manifolds.
When I modified my crank breather connected to a new position on the airbox, I had forgotten to plug off the old connector ( now at the front of the bike ).
Any unmetered air into the airbox that bypasses the Mass Air Flow sensor will wreak havoc no matter how small it is.
So I plugged up the hole and wow....... bike runs, idles, throttles on beautifully.
I also purchased a set of rearsets from a guy from DIXER PARTS.
A great product hand made and half the price of other places.
Whole kit including postage was only $400 NZD !!!!
You can choose to use new or second hand foot pegs, master cylinder etc, and the sets come with all the bits, he even threw in a brand new hydraulic pressure brake light switch.
Took me 15 minutes to get the gear changer on and adjusted, shifts beautifully and the footpeg is 300mm PCD from original footpeg hole.
-
Purchased another licence plate mount kit.
This one had a better fitment and mounting for a stop light.
I also purchased 2x led plate marker lights ( required in NZ for warrant of fitness )
Wiring was very straight forward.
I also peeled back the end wires from the original foot brake on/off switch and will reuse with the hydraulic sensor switch.
For plugging up the air boxes original crank breather connector, I used a 22mm cap plug from a pocketbike front fork. Glued it on, fitted tight and seated perfectly.
I have ordered from cafe4racer.eu
MARULABS MAGIC BOX BEP 3.0
This will make wiring up an aftermarket speedo very simple and maintain the original speedo pickup and neutral light selector etc.
http://cafe4racer.eu/en/universal-accesories-for-speedometers/296-marulabs-bep-3.html (http://cafe4racer.eu/en/universal-accesories-for-speedometers/296-marulabs-bep-3.html)
This box uses your original bikes instrument wire loom, just plug it in.
No cutting, no soldering, it really is the best money spent. No more crying over the speed pickup not working or no neutral light. This box does it all for you.
No need for an expensive speedo cluster, this box will turn that $40 Chinese speedo into a dream come true.
-
Hi Angus,
Good to see your mods and I was pleased to see NZ still,allows some latitude.I was under the impression rear sets,forward sets were not allowed per se.
I am rebuilding a classic bike with similar mods already existing and were used on the road in the past.I am about to contact the authority involved with blessing these things...Looking forward to classic vehicle rates and it's learner status.
Have you posted a picture of the Left hand side of your bike yet,so we can get an impression of how extreme your appendage is?
-
Hi Angus,
Good to see your mods and I was pleased to see NZ still,allows some latitude.I was under the impression rear sets,forward sets were not allowed per se.
I am rebuilding a classic bike with similar mods already existing and were used on the road in the past.I am about to contact the authority involved with blessing these things...Looking forward to classic vehicle rates and it's learner status.
Have you posted a picture of the Left hand side of your bike yet,so we can get an impression of how extreme your appendage is?
There is no latitude.
Rebuild laws for changing rider position and any component that may effect handling are harsh.
Left hand side you can see the air flow sensor on first couple thread pages.
I still need to fabricate a bracket for it.
Bike is running really well.
Currently I am wiring up the rear of the bike and waiting for the Muralabs magic box for my aftermarket speedo wire up.
I am now looking for a stainless brake hose set.
Sadly I am off to the UK in April for three years, so the bike will not get finished.
I have however purchased another cafe racer in London so I can attend the Brighton Burnup 2017
Here's a picture of the Honda CX650