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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Vespa no more on May 11, 2016, 06:57:47 AM
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Cut a long story short: soak in white vinegar and wipe out.
Bought a K1100LT 1993 (missing some parts... non runner at present)
Bad fuel could be smelt. PO had (bought a K100 and this bike as a "job lot" and sold the K11 off ... to me) drained most of the fuel. There was still some in the tank. One of the rubber hoses had disintegrated and created a resin-like mess in the bottom
Basically, I mopped up the rest of the bad fuel and then poured 6L ($2 per bottle at supermarket) of white vinegar in the tank and let it sit for a couple of days. Occasionally swilled it around.
Drained and started wiping with rags. The filth came away suprisingly easily but there was no escaping hand in tank with rag...probably took 30mins +. Occasionally used a screwdriver or butter knife to chip some of the harder stuff off. A toothbrush (or similar) might have got rid of the remains in the crevices (motivation had plummeted by then)
Results speak for themselves
Hope this helps
Guy
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nice!
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Good work, good post.
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My tank was just as bad. Engle motor (BMW) told me to use acetone w/water. Worked perfect. Should have used gloves though :dunno2: as the acetone really messed with small cuts on my hands :eek:
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Cut a long story short: soak in white vinegar and wipe out.
Bought a K1100LT 1993 (missing some parts... non runner at present)
Bad fuel could be smelt. PO had (bought a K100 and this bike as a "job lot" and sold the K11 off ... to me) drained most of the fuel. There was still some in the tank. One of the rubber hoses had disintegrated and created a resin-like mess in the bottom
Basically, I mopped up the rest of the bad fuel and then poured 6L ($2 per bottle at supermarket) of white vinegar in the tank and let it sit for a couple of days. Occasionally swilled it around.
Drained and started wiping with rags. The filth came away suprisingly easily but there was no escaping hand in tank with rag...probably took 30mins +. Occasionally used a screwdriver or butter knife to chip some of the harder stuff off. A toothbrush (or similar) might have got rid of the remains in the crevices (motivation had plummeted by then)
Results speak for themselves
Hope this helps
Guy
Thank you very much for posting this and sharing your results. I am about two or three weeks away from doing mine. I have the vinegar and everything else and am looking forward to getting this nastiness out of the way. Exactly how many days did you let it sit for? What did you use to avoid flash-rusting? Did you run into any trouble with leaks and stuff of that sort? Any tips you would be willing to share?
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2 days I think... more if needed. The surface staining comes away easily. Any dissolved rubber takes a little effort.
After the vinegar and cleaning I did put plenty of water through it (and wiped) to clear any residual vinegar.
I returned the vinegar to the bottles and will no doubt use it on something else.
It stinks (so does the old fuel) but it works. A friend of mine used the vinegar to resurrect a fuel pump. That took a week.
A word of warning. I tried the citric acid (lime juice at the local asian grocer diluted with water) ... not sure about the vinegar... on a carb (off a cheap chinese trail bike) and did not like the result. This was recommended by the dealer's mechanic as a way to cheap some plastic residue out of the idle jet. I continued to get poor idle even after dismantling, cleaning, toothbrushing and compressed air. I have not soda blasted it yet but the exterior came out very dull. My opinion is that these acids are okay for internal uses but if visible externally soda blast or similar (bead, water.... sand is quite aggressive (did this on a triple clamp once -looked good but not shiny)) would be best.
good luck
Guy
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The absolute best stuff I ever used on carbs or tanks was "paint brush saver" for paint brushes which were allowed to dry up with oil based paint on them. Coincidentally, works well on paint brushes. :laughing-on-ground:
tom
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Following up... I ended up both welding AND coating the inside of the tank. Since the welds were small and pin-pointed, I went with using a radiator repair shop to do the work. Their master welder recommended Damon Red-Kote. I showed him all of the nooks and crannnys (is that how you spell that?) in the tank, and he said I could cut it (make it much thinner; thus, allowing it to splash and cover the innards) with acetone. I did my due-diligence and researched it, and chose to use it. I was very happy with the results. I also took the advise of Damon's tech, who said to allow a few pounds of air to flow into the baffle through the drain port to prevent clogging, which I did and it worked (I have that flat pancake baffle, and not the little cylindrical one). Now... On to paint!
Oh, it maintains a flexible coating. It's hard to scratch it once it's applied and dried, but can be repaired in spots with the little you'll have left over in the can and a little paintbrush.
http://damonq.com/red-kote.html
Oh, and the fumes while it drys? The neighbors down the street go a contact high. FYI... The fumes are very dense, very heavy and VERY flammable. No I didn't find out the hard way. :nono
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You are a pro.! Now we can all ship our tanks to you for coating!