MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: jjs1234 on April 16, 2016, 04:08:53 PM
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Hello, Im currently
about 50-70% through my build. 100% I have wanted to create a thread for sometime (and sort of did on the k100 forum), but instead have just been working on it instead of posting.
READ FARTHER FOR PICTURES!!
Some major milestones that still need to happen:
-Put together
-Tank/tail painted
-Speedo wired
-Seat Reupholstered
Has been completed:
-Tail light has been changed but- in a way is still stock. Got rid of the side markers and re-integrated into the taillight.
-Engine is back together
-Colors have been chosen (red, metallic gold and black)
-100 percent of parts ordered
-65% Reassembled
-Waiting on RIMS and VALVE COVERS to get back from powdercoater.
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When I first got:
So I decided I wanted to get a k100 after some research. I enjoyed the fact that I could build something from scratch and add my own creativity to it.
Note: These pictures are from January 2016, so I am paraphrasing my build.
The k100 had been sitting for a good amount of time since it was dropped off (the title says donation)- approx 5 years in a covered warehouse. I knew much had to be done and at this point I yet had to come up with an idea of how I wanted to build it.
Miles: 47,287- If you count the 10% inaccuracy of the speedo, its more like 42,558 miles.
These are the first pictures I took before I bought it:
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-24-2016%20When%20First%20Purchased/th_20160123_161202.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-24-2016%20When%20First%20Purchased/20160123_161202.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-24-2016%20When%20First%20Purchased/th_20160123_161244.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-24-2016%20When%20First%20Purchased/20160123_161244.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-24-2016%20When%20First%20Purchased/th_20160123_161243.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-24-2016%20When%20First%20Purchased/20160123_161243.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-24-2016%20When%20First%20Purchased/th_20160123_161330.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-24-2016%20When%20First%20Purchased/20160123_161330.jpg.html)
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It's to my understanding that the speedometer comes from the factory with it's like 10% inaccuracy but the odometer is quite accurate
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That's an 85, otherwise know as "the finest year K" Often the speedo and odo stopped working, mileage is suspect.
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Jan 29 2016:
Getting her home and more-in-depth look + fairing dismantle...
So after getting the dealer to prove she ran, I paid the 900$. My first plan was to get her home- driving approx 200mi to Reno. On the summit, it began to rain and snow.
That was fun!
Also at this point, I felt it better to remove all of the fairing. I liked the travel cases and was against chopping the frame. Its from a bygone era and does not suit what I have in mind for her. I also purchased a Zanadu headlight that I liked and pretty much got for free when I picked her up. I also bought a handlebar switch and clutch lever assembly on Ebay- it was missing.
The fairing was cracked and broke further as I was removing it.
Problems:
- Oil Pan/Sump covered in oil + Unknown leaks
- Broken Engine Breather tube and Fuel lines (plus they were very hard and ridged)
- Seat and the tires are old and cracked
- Buttons (Both handlebars) are sticky and non-responsive
(Also this was that problem I encountered later on when the engine wouldn't start- it was because the starter button was assembled in-correctly)
I knew at this point I was going to replace almost everything that had some sort of wear on it and the rubbers...
But I wanted to do this, this is fun to me
Pics:
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_20160128_234324.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/20160128_234324.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_20160128_234125.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/20160128_234125.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_20160128_234046.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/20160128_234046.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_20160128_233935.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/20160128_233935.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_IMG_20160128_231149.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/IMG_20160128_231149.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_IMG_20160128_231140.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/IMG_20160128_231140.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_IMG_20160128_224540.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/IMG_20160128_224540.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_IMG_20160128_224528.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/IMG_20160128_224528.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_IMG_20160128_224516.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/IMG_20160128_224516.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_IMG_20160128_220120.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/IMG_20160128_220120.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_IMG_20160128_220005.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/IMG_20160128_220005.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_IMG_20160128_215919.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/IMG_20160128_215919.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_20160128_210407.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/20160128_210407.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_File_008.jpeg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/File_008.jpeg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_20160128_162953.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/20160128_162953.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_20160128_162923.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/20160128_162923.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_File_006.jpeg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/File_006.jpeg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_File_004.jpeg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/File_004.jpeg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_File_003.jpeg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/File_003.jpeg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/th_File_000.jpeg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-29-2016%20Got%20home%20Faring%20Dismantle/File_000.jpeg.html)
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In Xanadu did Khubla Khan a stately pleasure dome decree: where Alph, the sacred river, ran through caverns measureless to man. It looks like this bike may have been submerged in Alph mud for a while. Is this the bike with the rear drive housing that you carved into with a grinder, and that was scheduled for a fork transplant?
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Yes.
I found out that the holes do not lead into the drive-shaft housing (where the gear fluid lies). Therefore any shavings that fell into the holes will not get into the actual housing.
It is having its seals replaced at the dealer now too (the final-drive).
Yep its scheduled for a fork transplant. Ive already got the new Master brake cyl. on Ebay along with some other things too!
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Random Question:
So googling "Bmw K100 Reliability" brought up a webpage by Bertrand Vogel (http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/K100/K100.htm).
Anyway half-way down he mentions something about the "spring" on the output-shaft. How they have a tendency to go bad or wear out the hole causing issues...
This is his photo:
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_shaft_7.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/shaft_7.jpg.html)
These are MINE:
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_IMG_20160419_000242.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/IMG_20160419_000242.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_IMG_20160419_000227.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/IMG_20160419_000227.jpg.html)
They look similar to me. Also its interesting to note that the spring-ring has "mushed" into the head of the rivet...
What happens if this spring fails and should I replace?
Thanks!
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It's already failing.
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It's already failing.
Thanks Laitch!
Ill get er done! Anything else I should replace when the bearing is off?
Rivets feel secure
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You'll need to disassemble, measure, and analyze everything in the case—in consultation with someone who is experienced—to determine what needs replacing, pretty much like Vogel's work pictured on his website.
I'm basing my opinion on your photo in comparison with a photo and comment from someone who is skilled, even though your photos and his are not made in the same perspective at same stage of disassembly.
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You'll need to disassemble, measure, and analyze everything in the case—in consultation with someone who is experienced—to determine what needs replacing, pretty much like Vogel's work pictured on his website.
I'm basing my opinion on your photo in comparison with a photo and comment from someone who is skilled, even though your photos and his are not made in the same perspective at same stage of disassembly.
I'm taking it to the dealer to replace today.
Also got this in the mail:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160423/1fb6a849c8ae47d9c45189b87d968a6b.jpg)
Gold k100 placards. A nice finishing touch!
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April 24 2016:
Did a little wiring today. Mostly on the wiring harness. Cleaning up the old wrappings and protective tubing. Replacing with heat-shink and then a second layer of split-tubing insulation. Looks quite nice.
Something to do while waiting for painting weather and other parts k1100 components and blasting...
Clutch friction plate measures 5mm.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160426/368baa8c59ec6a119eadfcd4d2aa4f8a.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160426/50688ca15a6e5e93640d4229eb346bb4.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160426/66578a3cd031a64f4d6330d844118974.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160426/aba8fcd6e3fc4b1dfc8916f1308ae499.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160426/f78c87435add834edfb92412933d6785.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160426/c9d85ee448340cdea90b441d09bdd088.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160426/b70c1802d6d569849854fea5995eed56.jpg)
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Just got some more stuff sandblasted. Gearbox, crash bars, water pump and the center stand.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160427/0650df9098351b03e14048aaf7766c0b.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160427/234e413b171d5ba34dc33a79ef16d3e9.jpg)
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Did a little more wiring today. I have a ton of pictures I need to post as I am quite far along and have skipped a ton of pictures (teardown and paint)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160428/fdf64b32fe918389d9eb05d59bcb6f4a.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160428/b9bc298eb64d0918e4697bef7656b533.jpg)
Also purchased a bep 2.0 to with with my Acewell
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160428/58840828cf91ae3c76a2abe54f19c0df.jpg)
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More to come soon!!!!...
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160429/203d0fd0aa5bcbb81de1d4a84c7997dc.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160429/8512f4f47de478c22dfc37a4c3c95f5f.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160429/ac3c4c7028d2a5e058a68bde4ac102cb.jpg)
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Bought a k1100 front rim with both rotors for $150 Inc shipping. My BMW ship has a rear rim that's slightly bent along the lip. Here in Reno there seems to be a place that repairs rims thinking about buying it and giving it a go.
Also the same seller that sold me the front rim has also a front end in stock too.
He says that the seals leak and there's some surface rust on the tubes. A good time to rebuild it I suppose. Is it possible just to sand off the rust on the tubes or should I replace them?
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160507/1c315caf0ada2ecfa1fffa77e913d6fa.jpg)
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Got my output shaft back today. The Idler gear was actually worn into, but luckily the mechanic had a spare one just lying around. You'll see what I mean with the pictures. I also picked up a rear rim of an r1100rt. 4.5x18.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160508/8efe6acb5b81a86489bdc07d04e8164a.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160508/747d3222ce450c50c5d7e7e49f4be7f1.jpg
Original is on the top...)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160508/f21c79a3bc265d7f32bf5eed80c67cf0.jpg)
Also it came with a bearing but I believe it to be the wrong type as it had a different lip:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160508/121c3d13bf151e92a7f47cea956f7959.jpg)
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greetings jjs1234...
thats whack... keep it going...
j o
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Thanks Johnny, I know. I wonder what type of conditions would've made It fail in this way...
Also a picture of the tire that I picked up ( has a minor dent in the lip which I plan on getting it fixed):
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160508/44ac386276151521cdd6d32f05e71053.jpg)
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show me the f-ed-up lip... i may gotts some help for you...
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160509/5fc97f3a30cb0628b2c504cc7d4b7b12.jpg)
Also random question, do you know where this rubber o-ring goes to? It's the same diameter as the c-clip on the needle bearing on the output shaft(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160509/0982fddfc5900bdb7729438130cb3ff2.jpg)
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rodger that... common occurrence...
this it what i would do... and if you try it and it works... yeeeehaaaaaa... if you try it and it doesnt work you gotta send it out anyway...
leave tior on wheel... inflate to 10 pounds over max on sidewall... strap wheel to 2@ 4 x 4s with bad lip facing up... make sure 1@ 4 x 4 is opposite the bad lip...
strap a 2 x 4 about 6" long to the lip... 1 strap on the left side of the 2 x 4 and 1 strap to the right side of the 2 x 4... im talking nylon ratchet straps... figger it out so the ratchet in on the 2 x 4 and not near your wheel when absolutely tight...
need a big freaking sledge... whack it in the middle of the 2 x 4...
the 4 x 4s stable the back side... the 2 x 4 spreads out the whack... butts the most force is on the bad lip... the bead helps keep the lip proper and not deform...
i betts it will take 2 or 3 whacks to make it right... just go slow and be methodical... have done 3@ 3 spoke wheels like this after paying a wheel straightener to do the same... i saw his table... this is how he did it...
the only thing is if its not true... a trueing table will be necessary... be wary of wheels straighteners... most use a dial gage and mapp gass with a rubber hammer... not so good for these wheels...
some wheels require heat... these bmw wheels do not like heat...
j o
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It came with the used output shaft housing, and I'm scratching my head. I've kept track of every part and was thinking what the heck. The manual says nothing about a oring.
Whatever. I got a spare needle bearing too. Apparently BMW is trying to phase it out it something. 6 weeks on backorder...
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Thanks Johnny will give it a go. The tires 10 years old so no risk there.
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Any updates on the build?
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I have a bunch of posts I need to do on the teardown. Hopefully will post a couple soon!
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Any updates on the build?
Looks like six photos and four posts within the last 24 hours aren't enough to meet the demand, jjs. :hehehe
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Random question:
I have an ebay seller who has 2 k1100 forks and was willing to sell (inc shipping) one of them for $150. I wanted to know based on pictures what might need to be replaced? I see bearings and that center spline (where the bearings rest). Can I use my k100 bearings and center-spline in place of these?
Pictures:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeUVM4Qk1KVUdFMHc&usp=sharing
I will post pictures though, of the build. It takes awhile to upload to photobucket. Unless you want me to just post a google-drive link??
Thanks!
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greetings...
do you know how to look up the part numbers for the parts that fit your motobrick... and then with that information look up what motobricks that part fits...
its amazing how mamy parts are interchangable not only with k bikes butts r bikes f bikes and many others...
j o
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The bearings on the forks will need to go as will the races in your headstock. The stem (not spline; that's something different) is ratty but serviable. It looks like it will clean up. The photos are low resolution so it's hard to tell the condition of the stanchions but they look like they are clean, no pits in the chrome, no oil from worn or blown seals. Hard to tell if they operate properly from a set of photos.
All the other stuff posted in the photos looks OK. You're missing the fender and fork brace cover. He's including the ignition switch, fork brace and union, axle and hardware. That's a decent price for what's pictured.
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They were stored outside, and the fork caps (the plastic) on the top were missing...
Thanks Johnny, I took a look. The only thing that is interchangeable is the bearings it looks like...
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A little teaser today, what I've done.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160510/a34450990518b0115d79789b249316f5.jpg)
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I tell ya, that VHT paint comes out great!
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LOTS OF PICTURES HERE. JUST CLICK ON THE LINKS BELOW
Much easier to post links than to upload every-single picture to photobucket. I posted some pictures. The FULL ALBUM can be seen by clicking on the Google Drive Link...
:clap: :neener: :eek: :riding: :curvy-road :yes :mbird
Continuing from a few posts back before I got sidetracked.
If you have issues following the link- please let me know!
THANKS!
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JAN 30 2016:
TANK OFF
So in this album, I pretty much do an overall evaluation of what needs to be done.
I drain the oil. Its got a green color if I remember (foreshadowing to a failed seal in the OIL/Water Pump). Pictures of under the motorcycle show its extremely dirty. Also the weep hole was draining some form of liquid (Motor-oil, bud didn't know that at the time) and the O-Ring/Seal had failed (it was the O-ring).
Pictures of inside the gas-tank too! The black debris is the remnants of the old pump gasket/anti-vibration dampener.
Overall very dirty.
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-30-2016%20Tank%20Off/th_File_003.jpeg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-30-2016%20Tank%20Off/File_003.jpeg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/01-30-2016%20Tank%20Off/th_20160130_141345_1.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/01-30-2016%20Tank%20Off/20160130_141345_1.jpg.html)
LINK:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeTUNsQXdpUVFlRTg&usp=sharing
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JAN 31 2016:
TANK INTERNALS DISASSEMBLY:
A continuation of the last post, I was pulling out the internals of the tank. The screen had a hole, and as you can see- the lines were as hard as a rock!
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160131_002937.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160131_002937.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160131_002834.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160131_002834.jpg.html)
LINK:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeZ19JMXdFQVl1b0k&usp=sharing
***************************************************
FEB 01 2016:
WATER/OIL PUMP REMOVAL:
Starting the Water-pump removal. Note the dirty- leaking looking part on-top of the timing-chain cover. The coolant was leaking from the corrosion that occurred around the coolant-hoses and the metal. It was happening at the entry-point to the block, where the coolant temp sensor is.
Also the impeller was of the old-design. That needed to be replaced. Also again, the coolant/oil is of a green color.
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160201_210453.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160201_210453.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160201_204823.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160201_204823.jpg.html)
LINK:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeeWtmeE5GQkZOa2M&usp=sharing
***************************************************
FEB 02 2016:
DISSECTING THE WATER/OIL PUMP:
Some great pictures of the rust, that caused the seal to practically explode...
Lots of rust and corrosion here.
Also you can see the green corrosion as was mentioned above around the coolant-hoses and the metal.
Lots of cleaning too!
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160202_195723.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160202_195723.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160202_200208.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160202_200208.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160202_214143.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160202_214143.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160202_213001.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160202_213001.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160202_221123.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160202_221123.jpg.html)
LINK:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeUHJsejJRQTdmUHM&usp=sharing
******************************************************
FEB 03 2016:
OIL CHANGE + SPARK PLUGS:
Changing oil and spark plugs. More green colored oil and pictures of the pistons through the spark-plug hole.
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160203_212927.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160203_212927.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160203_215317.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160203_215317.jpg.html)
LINK:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeWldGdWw2Zl8zcms&usp=sharing
**********************************************************
FEB 06 2016:
FINISHING THE TANK:
Got the new parts in for the gasktank. The rubber vibration damper and the screen. Installed those.
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160206_133436.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160206_133436.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160206_133557.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160206_133557.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160206_201737.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160206_201737.jpg.html)
LINK:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BebUFMRko1WWdUOU0&usp=sharing
************************************************************
FEB 07 2016:
CRANKSHAFT:
If I remember correctly, someone was asking me on the k100 forum to open the crankcase cover to check for bent rods. All looks good though!
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160206_222831.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160206_222831.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160206_222816.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160206_222816.jpg.html)
LINK:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3obtViHR9BeZ01JUHVsV1d5djQ
******************************************************************
FEB 10 2016:
WATER/OIL PUMP REPAIR AND COOLANT HOSE INSTALLATION:
Got the new parts in and installed the water/oil pump. Later on I remove it again to get it powder-coated (which I am waiting for). :eek: :riding:
NOTE: Im told the Pentofrost is the right coolant. The green stuff can cause corrosion- which may have been witnessed as to the leak, or the oil got into the coolant and caused the corrosion...
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160210_184003.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160210_184003.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160210_184010.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160210_184010.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160210_184019.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160210_184019.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160210_201031.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160210_201031.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160210_203020.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160210_203020.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160210_204821.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160210_204821.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160210_211813.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160210_211813.jpg.html)
LINK:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3obtViHR9BeMWY2T2tpRlM2dFE
***************************************************************
FEB 17 2016:
SPLINES AND DISASSEMBLY (THE "REAL" START OF THE REBUILD):
Started dissasebly of the k100. I finally had access to a full garage to work in. Before I had a space no bigger than a bathroom to work on it. Realistically, I wanted to take the whole thing apart- piece by piece and touch/inspect and renew any worn items. I made a conscious decision to paint everything. This is the actual START to that. Everything before was getting it in order. I could of said "she runs- I'm happy with that." But I want more. I dont care if I drop more money on this build and it would of been cheaper to buy a new bike.
Once its finished, truly finished, nothing like it will be on the road. And its not a cafe- nor will it ever be.
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160215_163422.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160215_163422.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160215_163447.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160215_163447.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160217_194349.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160217_194349.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160217_205055.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160217_205055.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160217_222045.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160217_222045.jpg.html)
LINK:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeSXpvcFVnc1RhS1k&usp=sharing
***************************************************************
FEB 21 2016:
FINAL DRIVE AND SWINGARM REMOVAL:
Dissasembly pt2. Removing the final drive and swingarm. Super Dirty. Anyone know how the back of the gearbox gets so dirty and filled with oil/grease? I didn't see anything leaking (minus the boot). Also got new parts. Mostly for the installation of the MAIN OUTPUT SEAL and O-RING. Also made a nice wooden stand for the engine, which worked really well!
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160220_102359%201.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160220_102359%201.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160220_205405.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160220_205405.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160220_224023.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160220_224023.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160221_153820.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160221_153820.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160221_154955.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160221_154955.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160221_160518.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160221_160518.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160221_160759.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160221_160759.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160221_180603.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160221_180603.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160221_181533.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160221_181533.jpg.html)
LINK:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9Beck91QU81S0txOTg&usp=sharing
********************************************************************
FEB 24 2016:
CLUTCH PRESSURE ARM REMOVAL:
Removal of the Clutch arm and bearings. Also stripped the Gearbox/Transmission fill plug... That was fun! :clap:
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160223_190400.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160223_190400.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160223_190848.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160223_190848.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160224_195357.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160224_195357.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160224_200229.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160224_200229.jpg.html)
LINK:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeUmI2Y25qNHFZbzA&usp=sharing
**********************************************************************
FEB 26 2016:
SWINGARM BEARINGS:
Removed the swingarm bearings. Had to cut one out, didn't have the correct tools either... :(
Unsure if I can use this grease?
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160226_113306.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160226_113306.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160226_113337.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160226_113337.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160226_113433.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160226_113433.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160226_113917.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160226_113917.jpg.html)
LINK:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeNG1yWDJldU80QkE&usp=sharing
**********************************************************************
FEB 27 2016:
GEARBOX REMOVAL & CLUTCH VIEW:
Removed the Gearbox and got a nice dirty view at the clutch. Leaking O-Ring.
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160226_133921.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160226_133921.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160226_133932.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160226_133932.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160226_134146.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160226_134146.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160226_134218.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160226_134218.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160226_134315.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160226_134315.jpg.html)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/k100/th_20160227_213057.jpg) (http://s79.photobucket.com/user/RISEOFNATIONSFRK/media/k100/20160227_213057.jpg.html)
LINK:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeckoxQ2JJR1dYVFk&usp=sharing
-
Another random question:
I was under the impression brake calipers reach 350+ degrees when operating.
If I were to have them powder-coated and baked @ 350, do I need to worry about the rubber/seals in them?
Thanks
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So I got the K 1100 Forks today, here are some pictures:
240$ total
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/b4ed8a6c22ac06b8c5098ed0617905bd.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/94a15e282980274a2bf131c596d0e3a2.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/923779695514a18d3f4c8a44c4b4c879.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/d3397ceac435741e40a61ec21e0d5b60.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/fd60a49644ef61758ade29db329e0396.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/f7aa0e57482452f17dbb80f9bd0fceef.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/7499f0ff6c16201cc9cf5dc88cd1e1ed.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/492014530a43b38b72c4f4cd8cbab5fb.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/78ea7768c6fe3a4d00f180fedc507991.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/0e89674651757df373ca15fc47a72035.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/e38ade567bc5a59f5b5abed87fcb1c61.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/1d01b8f5d6f67cdb871fbdffdc3a537b.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/c9b26f15e3fecb0b618c12f8ee7dd333.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/d7233e25155c5278d33319517d13de69.jpg)
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Anything I need to worry about?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/23c2586c4d64929110b696b737539cda.jpg)
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greetings...
braille... those forks were assembled by visually impaired...
unless i had a violent shimmy above 120mph... i wouldnt give it another thought...
j o
-
Hey Johnny, what do you mean by this?
Sent from my HUAWEI MT7-L09 using Tapatalk
-
Are they good to go? I am going to disassemble to sandblast and paint. They didn't come with races but they're the same size as my K100 and I have those. Is there an easy way to read grease them?
Sent from my HUAWEI MT7-L09 using Tapatalk
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greetings...
what i meant was if at 120+mph... when you take your hands off the bars... if there is a violent shimmy... you gotts issues... if not... you are good to go regardless of the braille on the stemm...
j o
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jjs,
They look good to go. The tool marks on the stem won't interfere with the steering, but one would wonder why they're there in the first place; hence JO's remark. While you have the forks out of the triple tree, test the straightness of the stanchions and ensure their freedom of movement in the down tubes.
You could thoroughly clean the existing ball races and test their freedom of rolling. If they feel gritty or have flat spots, you're best to replace them, as well as the races in your headset. If they check out, just repack the races with a good quality GP grease.
You'll want to do something with the key cylinder casting on the upper triple tree. It's not going to work visually. You could do what I did and have a machine shop lop off the tower then enlarge the hole to accept the K's ignition switch from the bottom.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9qjRg1lC7mA/USgLY-o4rKI/AAAAAAAACJ8/fBNY0aAn17wcpyfCF1gYLIBzdDvisaCNgCCo/s800/IMG_1625.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6g9ExiL1x6w/USgLZMRlM_I/AAAAAAAACJ8/In8Kcv7bHzYmwwEC3j6ruklTg5_8dx82QCCo/s800/IMG_1626.jpg)
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Thanks Johnny, RBM.
I will use your photos to help me show the shop how to cut it. I'm going to assume I will need a bearing puller to pull the lower bearing off. I'm thinking I should probably replace the oil and seals too...
Sent from my HUAWEI MT7-L09 using Tapatalk
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No need for a bearing puller. Just break apart the race to expelled the rollers. Then take a Dremel cutoff wheel to the race. Take care not to nick the stem. Cut most way through it then break it open with a hammer blow on a screwdriver or cold chisel. The race will fall off. Clean and simple.
-
Another random question:
I was under the impression brake calipers reach 350+ degrees when operating.
If I were to have them powder-coated and baked @ 350, do I need to worry about the rubber/seals in them?
Thanks
You can buy rebuild kits with new seals. I'm not sure I would risk powdercoating, because they will sandblast first. You don't want any errant sandblasting in the cylinders. I used VHT's brake caliper paint and was pleased with the result.
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No need for a bearing puller. Just break apart the race to expelled the rollers. Then take a Dremel cutoff wheel to the race. Take care not to nick the stem. Cut most way through it then break it open with a hammer blow on a screwdriver or cold chisel. The race will fall off. Clean and simple.
[emoji4] is there a way I can save them? I'm familiar with taking the rollers off the plastic race on the swing arm bearings to grease them. But how do I grease them when they're metal?
More photos of painting :(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160514/662d2ba62616e4efc7e3c48539eafda9.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160514/e92e3da55f920cf97468eb0c2755102f.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160514/603519155fe3fa77e8cefe28848e49e7.jpg)
Sent from my HUAWEI MT7-L09 using Tapatalk
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is there a way I can save them? I'm familiar with taking the rollers off the plastic race on the swing arm bearings to grease them. But how do I grease them when they're metal?
So, two different choices you have.
1) leave the races on the stem and adjuster cap. Clean them with spirits and / or brake cleaner, and repack them with grease. Only go this route if you're sure the K1100 races and your K100 bearing sleeves are in great condition and don't need either one to be replaced. To grease the bearings, pack you hand with grease and push it into the rollers as you rotate them. Eventually they will fill up.
2) pull all the bearings, upper and lower, and replace them. This is a one way street and you can't go back. Buy a new set of replacement bearings, destroy the old ones to get them off if you have to and put on all new parts.
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So my rim sizes are both 18.
R: 160/60 r18
F: 110/80 r18
Alternate sizes for these rims? I ask because I am having great difficulty finding a dual-sport tire.
I know probably not the right bike, etc. but unless regular tires can handle a 80% Street 20% light dirt id like to get Dual Sport.
Alternates?
R: 150/70 r18
F: 140/80 r18
Im looking here to compare: https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=140-80r18-150-70r18
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Going to get the Pirelli Angel GT Tires, as they both fit with my rims.
Will post a ton more pics.
Also thinking of getting a new k1100 seat (its the OEM version seat), but I will need to swap everything too.
Currently:
-Ordered seals for k1100 forks
-Having rear rim rebent into correct shape.
-Getting rims powdercoated/along with engine components. I thought the VHT stuff was nice, but I wanted something more durable for the amount of time and work I am putting into this build.
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is there a way I can save them?
With tapered roller bearings they must be replaced as a set.That is the inner race is matched with the outer cone.Dont mix and match,if you intend to put miles on them.The(outer cone) solid ring will "brinnell" sooner,causing the stearing to notch,which will lead to a wandering weave at low speed..
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greetings jjs1234...
the dude abides...
if you replace all that now... and do it right with oem stuff... its over... you wont have to mess with it again...
if you cheep out on it... you will be messing with it always...
j o
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Just to be clear:
The k100 and k1100 bearings are the same in both models. Same BMW part numbers.
Your saying that since the k1100 didn't come with races on the triple tree that I cannot use my k100 ones (which are the same in BMW #s)??
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160518/0e83b1c09ef5106706c337fcfd3045eb.jpg)
They feel very smooth together, no play.
Just to clarify you're saying that I should buy new ones altogether?
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Just to clarify you're saying that I should buy new ones altogether?
Yes.
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Most bearings on these bricks are standard issue.They can be got from a reputable bearing supplier for less than you know where.The overal dimensions or the Id number on the unit will describe the exact thing and translate to other branded bearings.
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Okay I'll take a look around and see what I can come up with.
One other question how bad is this?(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160518/6d12fefa8549332f6c65846982f285a2.jpg)
Can this be polished out?
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One other question how bad is this?
Can this be polished out?
The small pits don't look too bad.
You have to consider the way the seals work so ,Polish (lightly with 600 or 800 wet n dry)off any HIGH spots.Best give it new seals too.
Accept that pockets of fork oil will reside in the pits,but as long as the surface is smooth the seals will survive many miles.
I put fork gaiters on mine mainly to keep crud off so the seals might last longer.Our road safety warrant officers are not allowed to look under them!
It turns out all you want is proper fork action and good damping.Oil leak concerns are about,How fast will these deteriorate,which will be related to how fast is it loosing the damping fluid?
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There is heaps of information on how to repair fork pitting on the Net, super glue, JB weld are a few of the solutions.
Regards Martin
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Thanks for the replies and info!
I'll see if I can find an identical bearing for the steering Friday as well as a bearing for the front axle to
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160519/fb462a434e94517d46fbcbc6182909e6.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160519/88903abf46d133698cea62ea8f801e18.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160519/69c414094511cc9f7ce9e5b0cb90ead3.jpg)
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So as previously mentioned, I have a bent rear rim. I had it bent back, but the person I paid didn't so it all the way for fear of it breaking?
When I asked him if it was okay he used the word "should-be fine."
Doesn't exactly invoke confidence.
Now based on previous pictures, imagine the bent lip to be a little less than what it was. It is noticable if you roll the rim.
Would you use it if it was yours?
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. . . imagine the bent lip to be a little less than what it was. It is noticable if you roll the rim.
Would you use it if it was yours?
I don't want to imagine, jjjs. With your photo skills, you should show the rim. I'll tell you right now without seeing it, that if I could see a bend in the rim, I could probably feel an effect from it too, at some speed or another, eventually. I'd want it fixed "all the way" or would get another rim, but that's just because it takes me longer to heal from injuries at my age.
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Now based on previous pictures, imagine the bent lip to be a little less than what it was. It is noticable if you roll the rim.
Would you use it if it was yours
No!....If I Knew about it
Chances are the wheel won't ballance without heaps of counterweight,anyway.
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I'm sure the rim is fixable but I think I am going to get another r1100 rim.
Thank is for the advice Latch, thedude. Any idea how it might have got bent at the lip? I heard either overpressure or under pressure can cause this (if you hit something)...?
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I heard either overpressure or under pressure can cause this (if you hit something)...?
Hitting something hard enough will bend a rim regardless of the pressure. Low pressure won't help and should be avoided for a number of reasons unless you're off-road with appropriate tires. Keep tire pressure to spec.
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I'm sure the rim is fixable but I think I am going to get another r1100 rim.
Any idea how it might have got bent at the lip? I heard either overpressure or under pressure can cause this (if you hit something
40 psi+\- is not in the ball park for deforming this material.
The overwhelming force is from being hit.
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Bought some bearings today as recommended.
First off sourcing 2 angular contact with cup for the steering. Getting those at 30$ each. The angular contact one for the axle is going to be ordered from BMW. No manufacturer carries this- it has to be special ordered from BMW.
The other axle bearing is generic (hurray😃) and I bought it for 4$.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160520/cad38c281aa1924a8e175e51d05d4a11.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160520/fee43c86dabb61dfa6cbfd1a13249c93.jpg)
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Bought some bearings today as recommended.
First off sourcing 2 angular contact with cup for the steering. Getting those at 30$ each. The angular contact one for the axle is going to be ordered from BMW. No manufacturer carries this- it has to be special ordered from BMW.
The other axle bearing is generic (hurray😃) and I bought it for 4$.
I'm more confused than usual,mainly by your axel terminology and bearing quantities.That's ok.
Here follows my understanding...
The generic deep groove ball bearings 6005 2RS C3 you have, go on the front wheel axel.there is two of them and they are the same,I guess it's the front wheel were talking about.(note you have got big clearance -C3. ) usually reserved for running hot applications.Oh well,you won't notice.
The stearing head bearings on my '86K75 are generic tapered roller bearings x2 (top and bottom)both the same.Probably worth you looking them up in the parts catalog,cause American bikes may have been different to rest of the world....
It's just money, in the end.You will get there.I gave up saving at the cost of just getting it right but I have learnt in the usual way...yeh, and I don't trust anyone no more.I'm continually disappointed....oh well,still getting older!
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The parts fiche said that there are two different bearings on the front wheel of a k 1100 LT. The LT has an 18in rim. The RS has a 17. Its weird how different bearings are needed for both! :dunno
The 4$ one matches the 25x47x12 which is number 3# on the diagram. Number 4# however is an angular contact ball bearing radial 25 x 47 x 16. It's pin number is 36312311031. I believe those run about $80.
On the Angular Contact Ball Bearing, I am told you will need some ---> internal force aswell as ^^^ force (if this makes sense) to prevent the balls from falling out of the bearing. My guess for this perticular bearing is that the axle needs to be tightened by the bolt on the end and this bearing bears the brunt of it.
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Fair enough!I stopped buying bikes in the eighties.
All the best.
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Fair enough!I stopped buying bikes in the eighties.
All the best.
I am curious as to why both bearings cant be the same. I may have answered my question but I am not entirely sure to be honest!
:dunno2:
The other thing I wanted to mention was that I went to 2 specialized bearing shops today.
In the second I dealt with a man who had been in the bearing industry for 20 years. He told me his credentials (Pacific Union, Airlines etc. buy bearings from him because he knows his stuff). Anyway, the Angular Contact Bearing is only made for BMW. In all of the bearing books he has Koyo, FAG, etc. they do not sell a bearing like this. Usually a manufacturer like BMW will order thousands of these bearings (that are specialized by their size- not a standard size) for the simple reason to charge obscene amounts of $$ for them.
Their are 2 types of markets for bearings. Industrial (which are standard in their size- easy to replace, and wide availability, cheap etc.) and the Automotive industry, simply put their should be no reason to specialty order a bearing unless you want to charge lots of money for it. You can make a bearing smaller but you cant make it bigger.
Interestingly, one bearing is $4 while the other is $80+
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I am curious as to why both bearings cant be the same. I may have answered my question but I am not entirely sure to be honest!
:dunno2:
The other thing I wanted to mention was that I went to 2 specialized bearing shops today.
Their are 2 types of markets for bearings. Industrial (which are standard in their size- easy to replace, and wide availability, cheap etc.) and the Automotive industry, simply put their should be no reason to specialty order a bearing unless you want to charge lots of money for it. You can make a bearing smaller but you cant make it bigger.
Interestingly, one bearing is $4 while the other is $80+
[/quote]
Yea, I was starting to get synical by the end of the eighties.Accumulated enough bitter experience,by then,for that stuff to ring too true.Oh well....I was a design engineer (including ships Winch gearboxes) and if I made that sort of ef up I would've shot myself...it seems the marketing dept turned it into a "win win"....and made it so.
Best renew as a set,by the way.....
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All new ones. The damn spacer got destroyed though. That's coming from BMW. I paid someone to take them out, should of done it myself.
Question: My model 84 (technically) k100 rear lights (not markers) seem to be single fillament. Is this the same across all years including k1100?
I am looking at the fiche and it looks as this is true. How weird. :dunno2:
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New Pictures:
The link takes you to the post...
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=8176.msg62651#msg62651
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My powder coater was curious what type of metal the K 1100 and R 1100 rims are? He let me know that previous builds he had destroyed some BMW rims because the rims had some sort of powder coat put on from the factory.
Since the metal is potentially soft the blasting process destroyed the rims.
He recommended that I use aircraft paint remover which is highly toxic if this happens to be the case.
Would any of you know what kind of metal are the rims are made of and if there's any sort of clear coat powder or just regular paint on them?
Also should get a whole bunch of parts back at the end of this week, that are flat black powder coated. Then I can continue on with the build. Currently I am at a standstill because I have no parts to assemble.
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Also with the above questions, does anyone know what these connectors go to? I did not label them...
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160524/8a838a6ac2f3445fba1273ca428005e3.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160524/3916542b85c8f2c92b84566c8d751e08.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160524/e0252aecb4e54e44ee1d761ef4496716.jpg)
ALSO took off the timing cover, check for any wear. The chain looks good, no slack. I was thinking of replacing... but maybe next winter...
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160524/82a1ef76f96f998755a8bcf0ca1fb443.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160524/c41c214f42054b96c2605a228bd8ef8d.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160524/f70b285e2ec7b5925d55e9f92057d1c5.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160524/faef9c2d402e524310bc70427650a8dc.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160524/8698eed00aff426f8b8e88f2c3229016.jpg)
I was going to cut this off... any objections?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160524/1c2ca315fbe25d83829839b7ce234675.jpg)
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Also with the above questions, does anyone know what these connectors go to? I did not label them...
Try to identify them by their colors using a wiring diagram of your bike.
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One might be a brake light. But as far as the 3 prong, I couldn't find any connectors that matched it...
Will take a look at a wiring diagram I have
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Also with the above questions, does anyone know what these connectors go to? I did not label them...
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160524/8a838a6ac2f3445fba1273ca428005e3.jpg)
^^^^ Clutch switch
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160524/3916542b85c8f2c92b84566c8d751e08.jpg)
^^^ Choke switch
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160524/e0252aecb4e54e44ee1d761ef4496716.jpg)
^^^^^ Don't know. :dunno
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Thanks rbm!!!! 😃😃
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That appears to be the "optional equipment" plug unattached, an extra connector loose in the relay box.
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Their is also a circular one that went to the radio that is disconnected. Wonder if I can use either with heated grips later...
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Yesterday... Prepping for powder coat!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/85b8b3e402cabcc2a9684ddfafdcad13.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/e37aba849e6582c3aaa3ebafd888e90f.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/5e2b417b13abe3818fb4db3033a67adf.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/0f0aaa938abcf3bcad9b069841cd6a00.jpg)
Also I was able to get the bearings off triple trees:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/0eb8ecbbc299918d14500bd3e8b79765.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/2e19f6b5991b0b8ece08b4c6c743a471.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/e92a3a9f79facc012a68e8542e75e9e3.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/5b34ca83cfdd5536929b6a677f3dee34.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/75ad6c570bd16333cc6d52a400ded9f8.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/635ae09e39b304687dd8b549c3569978.jpg)
Polished my rotors:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/31a003c9f54715b6e114578ecc2f2a6a.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/cc44887f2c014c657417ebe8e6fafda4.jpg)
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$680 later 3/4of it is finished...
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/b08ee07a6ebcfbe4d743b80f105d3225.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/f6c452dda2ee6fb0b855b12f76d3d4f5.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/6bcdbaa5693048b2e1bbea9765d1bf06.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/f7e1385db60418d63ae0f00326adfef0.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/5f8b072ef577713cf7d01c063532a78a.jpg)
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And so the build OFFICIALLY commences:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160528/d26c83ce2b93711f286a0b7986db06e0.jpg)
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Can anyone confirm torque specs for those 4 main bolts that cover the output shaft? Clymer says 6-7ft lbs. Seems a bit weak? (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160528/cfbb08f6957b11d90337dad017026b90.jpg)
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Never mind...
All torqued to that. I noticed some had thread locker. Since the likelihood of taking this off was rare... I added a smidgen
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160528/28705eb7630ad1ea28ea1b17c5e6a846.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160528/109bb9a04f796e83b69cc519e8704371.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160528/f64efa7fc1d30329c834a2d62c92ae33.jpg)
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Got to my goal today 😃 super excited!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160530/f5e3df8c871eae3cbc64fb59b4c2d3d3.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160530/79f8615ff0f50908f07629d38650caeb.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160530/3162e8c67b8f7080c6bc22ccda73b3b5.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160530/8b80c40b172f4ddd7d995f78d242b307.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160530/c9ecb872566e6e52e694a0a95d847d9a.jpg)
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Does this look right? I see a gap... sorta...
Both are pretty much tightened all the way
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/48a3e75dcc2770aaf82a6d22e614ae88.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/ee57ea283deadc77993cd722ae67961b.jpg)
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Last pic LHS rubber is cracked - probably at the end of its life. New one might be thicker and hopefully take up the slack.
Well done on the effort.
Why don't you spend a day clearing the garage into DIY floor to ceiling shelving. I did this in the back of my garage: 2" X 4"s (or similar) for frame (connected the verticals to the exposed floor joists) and used chip board flooring for shelves (we call it "yellow tongue" in Aust). Went nuts with hex screws. Little bit of trimming with circular saw. Pleased with the effort. Took about 1 day all up. Completely full up now unfortunately.
Then you'll have space for another K bike project!
"Can never have too much space" Shed lore 101.
Project is looking good
Guy
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"Can never have too much space" Shed lore 101.
Corollary to that is the axiom " 'Stuff' accumulates to fill the available space"
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Go waterless, evans colant, have it in k1200 and k75
never rusts, never needs changing and no pressure, no hoses bust boils at 375 deg F
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I Like the waterless idea. I'm guessing it never corrodes or breaks down??
Anyway I got more stuff :)
The Rim looks practically brand new. However I'm going to have it sandblasted and powder-coated. I thought that I may be able to use the tire that came with it so I bought a new matching Metzeler Roadtec Z6. However the tire age I believe seems to be manufactured in January of 2010. (Dot code 0410) so I'll probably buy a new one to be safe.
I got a lot back from the powder coater including the gearbox. Which now I can reassemble, attach, then add all the good bits to make this bike probably 60% finished.
One of the pains however was the paint I used to paint the plastics. I didn't get around to stripping them until now. It's a pain and I haven't started painting yet!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/a06cd9e85c1b1119770e4079fb944ebe.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/871371b9856ed41dd1b3195d79f2bafa.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/d24bc33332354c3b5d41e17a2f92351e.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/a2e1457f2c330c1e24a67932dfe10b07.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/867d99d47a08e88449a90744794c66ad.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/d3d41eb105e6b3a500fadcb32e7865e4.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/49c7698ab8df3782d03648ef54146f92.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/d8a96ffca5efe08dc21fcbf7d4647546.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/a52a6d79652b6e4ac96951f9987d1eea.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/89639e580156d70e2f972b79b02e45bd.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/782865a72f4256e4fbcffd7a797079b6.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/371eefeb74298e3e8fac1c6aec9ad90c.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/096893e65ec3158dc4ebfa16862cac56.jpg)
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Looking good except the last image.
I suspect the snake oil is just glycol.A good antifreez /water mix,on a well designed coolant system, goes well esp.with the Brick internals,for sure.Water has a very high heat capacity,Glycol,not so much.
If the tyre looks OK I would ride them,carefully,as you will,to begin with..but I'm a cheaparse.
Patience and care,now,,,, will be the virtues needed for this Brick.The generous make over,you have started is only as good as its potential bullet proof reliability.
All the best.
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Tonight:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/a08facd56c23213d27d39319218e949b.jpg)
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I'm upgrading to a k1100 seat. I have the old 85 seat.
Along with a new towel I believe I will need these parts, can anyone confirm?
It would be Parts 1 through 4.
If anyone wanted to look I'm looking on Max BMW K 1100 LT. It is diagram 52_1015.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160604/0c0178773a43a9fd8aef7674fefa7b69.jpg)
I also see another diagram which is 52 1030 in the K 1100 LT it has slightly different parts.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160604/b9a6f8045d265c6af5ce7dc736caa61f.jpg)
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Thanks for sharing all of your work with us.
When you are (reasonably) finished, will you please tally up a summary of all work done by you, parts replaced, contracted painting, etc and other itemized costs, plus the grand total of costs and time spent. if not too much of a bother.
It would really help others, myself included, who are considering buying an old K to rehab make an informed decision before jumping in as to what can be involved.
Awesome posts. :clap:
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If you paid t it yourself (engine/intermediate cover/gearbox/final drive/swingarm &other bits) you can probably save a lot. Probably worth buying one in good condition too cosmetically.
I've probably spend 1600 bucks just on Powder coating and Sandblasting.
I'll probably finish it this summer without painting the tank, cowl and front fender. However all of those need to be painted anyway but just to cut down on time and money. And the fact I'm buying a different seat and cowl that's another $400.
But all in all very enjoyable. You can keep your receipts and then justify to the insurance company why it's worth a lot more than market value. At least I can with my insurance.
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Sorry I meant paint
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So, you said it, all this work is to have a "burner" for collecting the insurance!
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. . . and then justify to the insurance company why it's worth a lot more than market value. At least I can with my insurance.
Right. :hehehe
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It's easy to buy the extra coverage. Getting them to pay that amount on a loss is quite another story.
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I wanted to take this bike to South America. That's one reason I didn't chop the frame, so I can carry bags. I just wonder since it will be so new, if someone is going to do something stupid...
Anyway, assembled the transmission. I believe the gears are meshed correctly. Had to take it apart again because the input shaft wouldn't move, and a grinding noise.
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I just wonder since it will be so new, if someone is going to do something stupid...
Like steal it or rob you because you look wealthy? That's not really stupid; that's just predators doing what they do, and we've got plenty of home-grown ones that will give you some practice before you leave.
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I agree about the vein hope with the insurance.Never been insured for my own bikes,just for third party but I'd be the one coming off worse any way.I use my own.Its far quicker at resolving issues!
You will need to provide your own also,that is continual vigilance with situational awareness.Especially if you go off the beaten trail.
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Before you head south, spray your bike with a PlastiDip mixture that resembles mold and carry your gear in these—already translated into Spanish and Brazilians will get the picture, too.
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Now that I've really looked at those bags, I'm considering painting my tragkorbs red and lettering them similarly.
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Anyway, assembled the transmission. I believe the gears are meshed correctly. Had to take it apart again because the input shaft wouldn't move, and a grinding noise.
Are the shims back where they came from, or did you mix them up?
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Are the shims back where they came from, or did you mix them up?
I believe them to be in the correct spot.
When installing the gears, they need to be flush with the rear side of the case. Thus it is my understanding that the shims just help the gears to be secure in the case, when the front cover is added.
I don't believe they have anything to do with preloading like on a rear differential.
It is my understanding that you cannot add shims to the rear of the transmission. Only to the front.
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I believe them to be in the correct spot.
I had my trans apart to replace the snapped gear selector shaft. Was ready to button it up when a bud dropped by ... "Can I see inside?". The shims landed on the bench. Turns out they're not necessarily the same thickness ...
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Correct. Do you remember which ones whent where?
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I think it would be different in each trans. Lay a straight edge (steel ruler thingie) across the face of the case and measure down to where the shim(s) sit on the shaft. When shimmed both should measure the same.
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Will do. Thanks! I'm thinking it may have been hard to shift due to lack of lube. We will see...
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Waiting on the shift footpeg powder coat before I can test and complete the gearbox and then put it on the bike.
In the meantime I got these two little cool things. Going to add the Molly 2 the engine oil and gear oil. I have replaced every seal.
Bep 2.0
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160609/1c568b7a4deb913ae065c66a4b33fec0.jpg)
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I would avoid using molybdenum additives in the engine oil. The starter's sprag clutch requires there to be some friction to operate properly. On my K100RS the molybdenum assembly lube I used on a cylinder head job got into the engine oil and prevented the sprag clutch from engaging. Only after an engine flush was I able to get it working properly again.
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+1 for being overly protective.Its an understandable sentiment though.
Lubrication technology is very advanced,"now".More about changing these regularly,to remove the dilutants like fuel or ,if dino,chewed up molecular chains through shear,so modifying the original viscosity.
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I would avoid using molybdenum additives in the engine oil. The starter's sprag clutch requires there to be some friction to operate properly. On my K100RS the molybdenum assembly lube I used on a cylinder head job got into the engine oil and prevented the sprag clutch from engaging. Only after an engine flush was I able to get it working properly again.
have you had any issues with full/partial synthetic oil?
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Synthetic is the way to go, but avoid the moly additive to the engine.
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Today:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160614/8dfec2cd719ccd931fe184f695d26638.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160614/1a4c3336bfeb04e787563cef5cd6051b.jpg)
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160615/2ab224678d2a24005cc1e794c1ba885a.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160615/7e48cd3788887610045c300331a82de7.jpg)
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Wow?
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What's with the ? Hah I need to scrape off the red on the Brembo logo
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Wow?!?!?
JJS 1234 you go for it.
Keep us posted....
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A little teaser of what I'm currently working on: (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160615/ffc4ca1110d0305116f1ee736e4c04df.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160615/516c9c8df966aa9ff09280ad53708edc.jpg)
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I'll tell you the gearbox was a pain to install. I'm still slightly questioning on if everything's good but I'm just going to have to take my intuition on this one. It's pretty difficult to turn it after everything was torque on the cover. However it was also pretty much dry inside so that might also be why.
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160615/b718781444b6c2ba74989b043033cceb.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160615/75600778150eff63ec04df4aa35483f5.jpg)
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However it was also pretty much dry inside so that might also be why.
Were you applying a light coat of gear oil to the parts as you assembled them, jjs?
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I had, but then I let it sit because I didn't have the gear change lever. Once I got it, I assembled the cover. After torquing the cover it was alot more difficult to turn. But it did still turn...
Ideas/ concerns?
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It should turn easily. Are you sure the shims are in correctly? In neutral, is one shaft harder to turn than t'other?
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When in neutral:
The output shaft is easy to turn.
The input shaft is more difficult.
Im guessing I might have an issue with the input shaft or the intermediate gear (I am unsure on the name- gears in the middle that have no direct input).
Any ideas on what it could be if it gets worse when tightened?
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Thinking about taking it apart again, a bit :( since I'm not entirely sure what going on. Will re-lube and re-evaluate.
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Thinking about taking it apart again, a bit :( since I'm not entirely sure what going on. Will re-lube and re-evaluate.
Good on ya!Too much invested to risk trashing the gearbox.Im not familiar with these boxes,but others yes.
When doing so slacken off the casing screws slightly and retest the shafts for rotation ease.Get a feel for that..New seals can be a drag on rotation so this will discount them but point towards incorrect shaft compression preloading issues.
Most if not all the bearings would be frictionless,ie roller rather than bush, so pre lube not so crucial or effective in relieving this initial tightness.I guess the casing bearings were removed/replaced,new, for powdercoating and may not be fully back where they belong in their housings.Best have heated casings 100c when refitting these.The end float control shims are your main interest,I suspect.New bearings usually mean different shims,not rocket science prescribing these and data must be available for this.The input shaft is controlled by tapered roller bearings.Preloading these with some compression correctly is crucial.
Your difficulty refitting to the clutch,previously,may not occur the second time round!
All the best.
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I didn't replace any bearings, just ask the seals. Are you talking about heating the gearbox case?
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And I forgot to mention, I believe the manual states this but installing the gearbox gears/shafts are you supposed to tap them in with a mallet to seat?
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Thinking about taking it apart again, a bit :( since I'm not entirely sure what going on. Will re-lube and re-evaluate.
Yes do take a look. Your bike is too pretty not to work correctly.
Radial, axial, root or lash. Something isn't quite right. Just gears, but they must be meshed properly.
Check it all and make sure it spins and shifts with ease by hand.
Be the assembly, know it intimately and be reasonably sure no failure will occur.
Don in Nipomo
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I didn't replace any bearings, just ask the seals. Are you talking about heating the gearbox case?
And I forgot to mention, I believe the manual states this but installing the gearbox gears/shafts are you supposed to tap them in with a mallet to seat?
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OK,just need to make sure the bearings are seated as they were originally.Heat helps if needed,by expanding the hole allowing for lower forces when seating the bearing,not needed if you give em a well aimed good hit.The sound it makes tells you if you've "arrived".The seals are not so tolerant of the heat but 100deg c(212F) is OK.
The same shims should be fine as no changes involving normal manufacturing variability,that new components have,were introduced.
Powder coating involves heat raising the temp way above this....aluminium casting may have changed dimensionally but not likely.
Were the outer bearing rings (on the input shaft tapered roller bearings) left in the cases when this was done or were they removed and reseated?They would need a good hit, with a drift to get them"home" if they were removed as with " best practice".
Like they say "The human always wins"....eventually.Just needs great care and scrupulouse cleanliness.
All the best.And like the Don says.
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The races were left inside. I don't know if it's of any importance but the gearbox cover was not powder coated. Or heated only the gearbox shell was. What I mean by this is One race was heated and the other was not. I can also try throwing the gears in a freezer as well.
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This sounds dumb but every time I also put the cover back on it was sort of at an angle and not straight down. The gearbox was leaving at a slight angle maybe this did something?
I kind of didn't expect it to be this high maintenance. But assuming I get access to the oven today I will be more detailed and possibly post a video if it still has difficulty turning
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OK,Definately worth making sure the heated bearing didn't move during the hot powder coating process...There could be some coating behind stopping it though,then you would heat,tap it out ,clean the shit out ,tap it back home properly.
Only use the oven if you can't budge the bearing with slightly more force when done at room temp.Use a socket or tube or whatever to press on the edge of the bearing outer ring that also is smaller in diameter to the bearing housing in the shell as you call it.The noise when you hit it will either not change 'cause it's home already or it will next hit when it arrives or has arrived.The hits(taps with a hammer)get bigger as you progress and as you get the feel and sound of what's going on progressing the bearing home.
The "on the piss" reassembly is odd.Any force to correct this on assembly is not good.
Don't bother with the freezer if this assembly was not disturbed.Its the different thermal expansions you are exploiting to allow tight fits to be looser when you use this technique.
Yeh,always more trouble than you think but that's how we learn.This I have found in life is the most important thing.How much trouble(effort)do I need to exert to do what I want...Then,ultimately,you get a pro to do it but hold them to it cause they're only half arsed human...as well.,just take your time ,be a perfectionist,and use you're common sense....It'll be worth it for several reasons...
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One good thing of this has come out so far. It was a real hassle to remove it since I couldn't remove the starter but I was able to get it out. This would have leaked anyway had I not seen this. I don't know if this is causing the issue though.(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/240b3aee5e8fabf1e5c2d4c530327234.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/b3cf2a695810fab3668ab860286846e2.jpg)
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Any idea if this race is good? It's sitting higher butt this piece was not powder coated I don't know if it's supposed to be that way or not.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/3e65d2656d433d160c65851bc8a31abc.jpg)
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You've already justified your rework as you say.
The seal lip could almost be reclaimed with some care but...best get a new one.Professional assembly would use a thin walled sleave over the splines to help,with keeping the seal,good.Just reassemble carefully (rotate the shaft a little as you do,maybe.Use it if the old seal ..."comes ,looks,right.".......unlikely this is causing excessive rotational drag but hey? That final clamping of the end plate was my impression from what you said.Er..no missing /original gasket ?
The bearing cup in the image looks well seated with a little cast aloy housing lip above the cup to be expected .Being flush or at the same height is not needed it's the machined landing that is the datum but it does need to be right up against that landing. I can't tell for sure without being able to put my fingernail etc on it...does look a bit well used on the running surface and is that a hair or dirt/oil I see? I guess this cup hasn't been moved,anyway.
It's also the powder coated shell mounted bearing that may be of concern.
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All the seals are new. What a pain to take everything apart again...3rd time.
I think it is the new seal causing some drag or a combo of the bearings being tightened against the races+ moving the other gears... is causing the drag...
I tried to bang in the other race in the shell, but no go. It's seated still.
Going to reassemble
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You're most probably correct.Your griping a reltively small diameter trying to rotate it.Peace of mind is everything with these things....
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Thanks for helping me out The Dude! Much appreciated. You know how when you start something and you can't stop until it's finished or you're satisfied? Well despite not having a great start today I think I finished off quite well:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/e3e18e5d5784d2509275c14691ad95af.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/acb956223fcc1de05b0102c478ff6aaf.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/1518f6d51fc868c974fbca8585efaa93.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/20e28d1ed44a7afb8359896f871e0c5c.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/7f971706f5b3a75daf675e1a8f89c81b.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/50cd831c6bb2b371c5c5ab90b9fc438a.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/9edc10ac5d72b9839de6cbfffd7d1a78.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/cce28371391952e828199e48f68935b6.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/1441c64b6cfcb207593402188d981116.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/0186ffebce1046f81db0eef648d20249.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/c4785aadd17333ec046d63be118af15e.jpg)
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Put something under your swing arm to prop it up. Saves wear and tear on the rubber boot.
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I think that is only when the final drive is attached...?
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Looking really good ..
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No. With the swingarm hanging down it can cut the boot on the trans side of the swingarm. Take Billday's advise. Support the swingarm.
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Today:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160619/a76040868fba27a915a871548fcdc699.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160619/58b68c4b44f0febb7320ace162c680c5.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160619/f15ff465ee4ed2ea68240cab9de3167c.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160619/c364880ff1608ee99e1b183448256f68.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160619/5e57ce41f6701d280967c8a835742c25.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160619/19ca3b5c030edc8d07273898813cf2a3.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160619/b90e8a5146f1516aeb36215ff378af97.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160619/b6768e806ebc89d2138680d985a728e7.jpg)
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It's going to be a beautiful thing, jjs!
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Thanks Laitch, more to come!
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Anyone know where I can find a "how to" or solid-state pre-configured board to run the Rear Side Markers as Brake lights?"
So that when I am braking it will also function as a turn signal? (my Crown-Vic does this already)
Search isnt helping me: 0 Results
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Also just noticed this. Near there connector for the 1# cylinder injector plug....
What was connected?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160620/8dc42f83b269e434269f790536e6a541.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160620/7f539070cb8c89a139a562de1c4c82c8.jpg)
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Never mind durr... I cut it off. It's that redundant sensor...(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160620/fd9cfc303af3a11b980ee4fcd949d784.jpg)
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160621/b2eacaa688fde2457e7e2567f6ad6aba.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160621/32af9e79ee86af4b376560c8f0b7b2f0.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160621/7d358aea71d6b561df5004c199652a3f.jpg)
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I got the rest of my powdercoat pieces today. That's everything unless I want to add something else.
I have a slight dilemma as far as colors go however, the cowl can only be painted with regular paint. It does not match anything that the powdercoat has done thus far.
Valve covers, front rotors and the both rims were completed.
Did not include a picture of the rims until tires are put on.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160624/99b4e7fb7ddf0fa77128c0dbdb14c99d.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160624/f6767133cfd87ad8e63a8b82ae554e13.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160624/07286dc103b225c3e71d625c8eff6a8a.jpg)
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160627/0bc60a3c2314765c8f732315b72306c7.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160627/e9953bca76d00892b1eb56a9643eaece.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160627/9376aa7d89fd08d27571ffd9a6fb4284.jpg)
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I'd like to know how I should go about tightening the KNIRLED NUT and the other NUT on the triple trees.
Mostly curious if the Knirled nut should be hand tightend?
#3 #4 #7
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160628/af67f83b14b3ffdc2bd3086949e25683.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160628/abbda9bb96153ffad466faf2827bc93e.jpg)
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I'm fairly sure....that the knurled nut is knurled for hand gripping.When I do up stearing head bearings I know it is a ballance between not enough and too much.With clean undamaged threads,I use several hand gripping tightening and loosening cycles to seat the two bearings and just guess a bit of preload.This is really just a feely thing,in my case,but not too much.Then,I check the play in the forks by pulling them back and forward,listening for any movement in the stearing head.A second pair of hands is usful as you can also use your fingers to sense any movement also but getting good help is often difficult.The lock nut just nips up to prevent any creep of the knurled nut and needs to be tightend without disturbing the knurled nut position....too much.After a hundred miles or so recheck for play in the stearing head and also how freely the stearing swings over.This works for me....
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When I replaced my bearings on setting them up I found I couldn't get enough grip on the knurled nut. I ended up using a heavy duty strap wrench. The strap looks like it is made of reinforced canvas, not the rubber strap material.
C.heers Martin.
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The knurled nut (6) is for adjusting bearing play, the stop screw (5) is for applying correct bearing preload, and the hex nut (4) is for locking the adjustment. Steering bearing adjustment is an iterative process. Adjust 6 until all play is removed from the stem. Tighten 5 to recommended torque (74Nm). Test the steering to make sure the preload is correct by centering the triple tree then seeing if the steering flops smoothly to either side when nudged. If it flops too fast or too slowly, the preload is incorrect. Readjust. When preload is correct, lock the stop screw in place with the hex nut (4) by tightening to recommended torque (45Nm).
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JO could we move these last post to an area for reference under head bearing adjustment?
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How about you make my thread a sticky!! :2thumbup: :eek:
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Could use some other help here. One of the bearings on the front wheel slides in. I removed both of them to get powder coated. Now that I have new ones the one on the right side goes right in without hammering it.
I'm going to guess this is a huge issue? Is it possible to remedy this?(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160629/c9331ea61b6ef0b85ecf70489c3e4ccd.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160629/bba38f2cd3e52370a1013d885e91b4a8.jpg)
Is this supposed to keep it in place?(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160629/66c5b285d2f7007f188e42ef81c8efda.jpg)
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Now that I have new ones the one on the right side goes right in without hammering it.
I'm going to guess this is a huge issue? Is it possible to remedy this?
How's the left side assembly going?
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There is more resistance on that side. I'm running to AutoZone to pick up a bearing installer so I can install it correctly. It also has a c clip I think it's called or snap ring so it couldn't come out. The right side does not have a snap ring however.
I have some really powerful foxy I was thinking about Kama either using it to keep the bearing inside or using a small amount to make up any Clarence and then install the bearing
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There is more resistance on that side. I have some really powerful foxy I was thinking about Kama either using it to keep the bearing inside or using a small amount to make up any Clarence and then install the bearing
Are you certain you have the correct bearings and that you've got the bearings on the correct sides? These bearing should be press-fit and generally take more finesse than just "hammering" on them. It might be time for me to turn in because I can't seem to translate your other sentence that I've quoted here.
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Are you certain have the correct bearing and that you've got the bearings on the correct sides? These bearing should be press-fit and generally take more finesse than just "hammering" on them. It might be time for me to turn in because I can't seem to translate your other sentence that I've quoted here.
Apologies. Voice to text sucks when driving.
Absolutely sure it's the correct size.
I meant epoxy. I have two options when it comes to that. I could either epoxy it in place or use some epoxy and then sand it down a little bit so that it makes up the Lost clearance.
If this sounds really shady like nobody's ever done this before and please let me know.
And it honestly could have been because the inside where the bearing sits was sandblasted.
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It might be time for me to turn in because I can't seem to translate your other sentence that I've quoted here.
My dyslexia kicked in and I understood seemlessly....don't use apoplexy.That sort of seizure,you don't want.
:yow
If the loose bearing is not moving radially in its housing then a liquid bearing fixer can solve this issue.You don't need a bearing installer kit you need a suitable proprietry bearing fixer .Ask at your auto store.Loctite is a brand I have used.Make sure the two surfaces are clean etc.Then keep an eye on it occasionally.All that can happen is that the bearing outer race may spin making the clearance bigger if the special glue fails.
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My dyslexia kicked in and I understood seemlessly.
Well, Dude and jjs, thanks for the clarity. I understood the part about Clarence because back in 1979 I beat him at twelve games of eight ball in the Leisure Lounge in Leisure City, Florida then he got uptight after paying for 12 shots of Mount Gay. I thought that was all in the past though.
Anyway, it's good to know that you have the right sizes, jjs. I was just wondering if you're trying to install them on the right sides. It still sounds a little sketchy. This isn't a Lada hub being assembled, but The Dude seems to have a preternatural understanding about this so everything must be ok.
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[quote author=Laitch link=topic=8176.msg65694#msg65694 date=1467167503
This isn't a Lada hub being assembled, but The Dude seems to have a preternatural understanding about this so everything must be ok.
[/quote]
Hmmmm....the important bit is to keep checking that wheel.Funny wheel bearing sizes are beyond my field of experience.
Disclaimer.The Dude is a Bright,he can only manage a naturalistic world view.
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I appreciate all the fast and quick replies. I didn't see anything in AutoZone in Nevada no less that had a bearing fixer or something along that line.
I bought something Cold Steel weld made by Permatex. I don't believe you can buy this in California.
Anyway my plan is to mix a little bit and put it where the bearing will sit and then use a razor blade to smooth it out all the way around.
Then I'll let it fully cure and then put in the bearing hopefully that will take up all the clearance that is making it move around.
But I'm really thinking that the sand blast might have taken up just a teeny bit of clearance that I would have needed to make it snug.(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160629/05e3fe5fd2cd8c2bc3141df7453c0c9c.jpg)
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Just the smallest amount,on the cylinder wall only,not the shoulder.No need for the smoothing out,just sit the new bearing in the housing,up against the shoulder and let it set.Then keep an eye on any deterioration in the fit.Likely to work fine.
I have used similar for stearing head bearing after crash(someone else's) ovalised the bearing housing.I did make up a Dolly on a lathe sitting in the other bearing housing too and peened the thing back into shape as well.
I'm surprised you could not find Loctite.look it up and make sure your litigious society hasn't banned it...
Out back, here, we can fix anything with #8 fencing wire but we also have a high degree of self responsibility to go with this....
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I've got blue and red... in my mind it doesn't compare... you think it's good enough? Red?
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I've got blue and red... in my mind it doesn't compare... you think it's good enough? Red?
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Probably not.How sloppy is that loose bearing?All subjective stuff.
Better to use the Steel Weld....Even better to get the bore sleeved by a reputable engineering workshop,obviously.
All the best.
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Sleeved you say? I feel like a sleeve made out of one or two layers of aluminum foil would work
Thats how tight it is.
Anyway I put a little bit of that epoxy in there and seated the bearing. Looks like it seated towards the end.
Another issue cropped up...
I seated the other bearing. Its snug and when you pound it in (thats what she said) the noise changes... good. Only thing is now the Snap ring doesnt fit... The groove is exposed just not enough...
What gives???
Figured it out.
Unlikely that this advice would become a sticky but in anycase if you have a k1100LT Front Rim 2.5x18 these are the procedures you should follow...
On first note if you but a new spacer (named "PIPE" on the parts fiche) it can ONLY be installed one-way. Meaning it will only go in on one side of the rim.
1.) Install your PIPE. This should be installed on the RIGHT side (Facing if you were seated on the bike).
Check to see if the PIPE goes in this way (as the other way has a ledge preventing its entry).
2.) Install your ANGULAR BALL BEARING 36 31 2 311 030/31 (this is the thicker ball bearing) (Unsure as to why its an Angular type. The k1100RS does not have this ball-bearing) ON THE RIGHT SIDE (Same side you installed the PIPE- SPACER)
3.) Hit the ANGULAR BALL BEARING Past the point of the Snap-Ring (So you can install the snap-ring)
4.) Install the SNAP-RING
5.) Install the Left Side GROOVED Ball-Bearing 36 31 1 450 967
NOTE: When installing the GROOVED Ball-Bearing, it will hit the PIPE and thus hit the ANGULAR Ball-Bearing and push it against the Snap-Ring(Once it hits this it will not go any further).
6.) You should be complete.
The point of this is to have the Grooved be snug against the PIPE, which is in-turn snug against the ANGULAR ball-bearing. This can only be facilitated if the SNAP-RING is in place.
I thing the SNAP-RING serves no other purpose than this.
Let me know if this works for you.
Also INSERT the AXLE to make sure everything is lined up correctly. It should not have any resistance moving in and out of the RIM.
Thanks.
What a learning lesson.
And if you get your rims powder-coated, make it clear not to sand-blast or powder-coat where the bearings lie.
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Correct!
It's not rocket science...take your time.
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Not great lighting but: (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160629/3fa85f4792a1125caedfd3852d9e34f7.jpg)
Expecting some parts tomorrow.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160629/deab3264c623d69cae6d1de02bd92eee.jpg)
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Exciting stuff, jjs! Thanks for the updates.
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It's not rocket science. . .
Agreed, Dude. It's more like Darwinism.
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Looking good!
It's more like Darwinism.
Eventually, postponed by bouts of serendipity.
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. . . postponed by bouts of serendipity.
If serendipity and high speed wheel rotation are a good fit, it should all work out.
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Serendipity and high speed wheel rotation are a good fit, it should all work out.
Yes, that's reassuring,because the coriolis of that is...with a bad fit, it should all work in....Hemisphere dependant.Er,it was the left front wheel bearing,wasn't it?
Don't cross the equator! Cross with care.
I continually find there's always more to it than meets the eye....but there's always a rational explanation!
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Alright enough with the philosophy class :)
What do you guys think about this? That spacer is installed... wondering if I should keep it?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160630/6f41a00c4099922ea696a12176836180.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160630/e2993923c062064711db980cc3d8f11e.jpg)
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Alright enough with the philosophy class :)
What do you guys think about this? That spacer is installed... wondering if I should keep it?
Second image answers the spacer keeping question....(yes)
The obvious wheel to frame seat rail offset is apparently approaching normal for this design(other threads tell of this)but one thing to look for(to gauge this) is how the shock absorber compresses.ie reasonably straight(through the suspension arc)or is the shock forced to bend as it compresses?Is the bottom mount directly under the top mount,in the vertical fore/aft plane?The shock will not last long,otherwise andso indicate if something is actually wrong with this assembly.
This will help you asses if the frame to motor has been assembled correctly,shims,bent frame,funky colour choice, etc. :bmwsmile
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Second image answers the spacer keeping question....(yes)
The obvious wheel to frame seat rail offset is apparently approaching normal for this design(other threads tell of this)but one thing to look for(to gauge this) is how the shock absorber compresses.ie reasonably straight(through the suspension arc)or is the shock forced to bend as it compresses?Is the bottom mount directly under the top mount,in the vertical fore/aft plane?The shock will not last long,otherwise andso indicate if something is actually wrong with this assembly.
This will help you asses if the frame to motor has been assembled correctly,shims,bent frame,funky colour choice, etc. :bmwsmile
Thanks The Dude.
I believe everything is strait/aligned. I will double-check later though.
The way the wheel is (how its off to the left a bit) looks like it could counteract the weight of the left (if sitting on the bike) side of the engine...? What I mean by this is the engine is larger (protrudes) on the left side (valve cover side). The Frame mounts to the engine not in the center, but slightly off to the right.
If you understand what I mean, would it be plausible that the way the tire is situated will have no noticeable effect on steering/handling?
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What measurement did you get between the tire and the swing arm, jjs?
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My guess is 10-15mm. However I am unsure, since I didn't measure it. It was wider than 1 spacer though.
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My guess is 10-15mm. However I am unsure, since I didn't measure it. It was wider than 1 spacer though.
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That's plenty.My impression from your image was next to nothing,hence the leave the spacer in comment.Good.
The rear wheel offset(common observation) displaced to the left 5mm or so won't be noticeable when riding.It is designed in by the boffins(I hope).
Happy days!
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Replacing seals in forks... some rust...
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160702/4b0ad958df7df8b93a1744b0504a2440.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160702/01773421b2959dcb7e5ec27f18b9068b.jpg)
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Got to get a measuring cup to see how much drained...
Kinda wondering how to fill it up... (the cap on the top or bottom)...
Also going to fix the damage to the chromed sanchions with epoxy. Dries clear and supposedly resists petroleum.
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Got to get a measuring cup to see how much drained...
Knowing how much drained is not going to help if there wasn't enough in there to begin with, or too much. Fill it from the top. Fill it according to spec.
You'll still need a measuring cup. If there's a culinary school nearby, see if they'll loan you one and give you a warm croissant to go.
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Okay will do. I know where to find the amount. I am just changing the seals so not a full empty.
I'm also guessing the rust isn't anything worth mentioning.
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I use a large vet syringe from the top.
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I am just changing the seals so not a full empty.
If this is a used fork, jjs, why aren't you doing a thorough disassembly, inspection and cleaning of it like you've done on much of the rest of your bike? Did I miss that chapter in this saga? At speed, I want zero surprises from the fork.
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I can, I'm just thinking of what stuff I will need to replace (gaskets ) when I open her up.
I'm just a little ancy, it takes FOREVER to get parts from BMW.
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I can, I'm just thinking of what stuff I will need to replace (gaskets ) when I open her up.
I'm just a little ancy, it takes FOREVER to get parts from BMW.
You may need a bushing or two, but mainly you want to thoroughly clean out the accumulated soup composed of pulverized metal and degraded oil. Where are you buying your parts? Sierra?
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I usually do Max. Way bigger in terms of volume. Sierra has gotten "bit**y" at me because I wanted to return parts that were not the ones I asked for...
I'll open it up after I polish the epoxy.
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Pictures of epoxy before polish and the side stand. Waiting for a r1100 centerstand. I may have it powder coated along with the fork tubes lower part. It'll probably delay their front wheel being put on for a week or so.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160703/9469c58f85c66b75798739d0e28744b5.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160703/88f0f5f0ea39d759e2dfe3d8ea3f503a.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160703/287a49920745cbd6f201c913d1b4d309.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160703/89616633de504b7d24a76d99890b9163.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160703/a3396efad27c1d48386e40aa71525c32.jpg)
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License plate lights... eBay cheap. Blueish color I don't know if they go with the look though. Well see
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160703/c23c755de4eaa1b2aa7320a2fa2e5274.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160703/a5b7d06b3a69680768774c2bd7a03821.jpg)
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160703/f3d6f893587c96cea5ce0b17e98bc3a7.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160703/63b837eb1fceafbdf36d6eeba95483ba.jpg)
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Use the old fashioned double sided razor blades, I believe they are referred to as safety blades. They are flexible and good for scrapping of the excess of epoxy. Be careful use a piece of folded business card to protect you from cuts from the exposed edge.
C.heers Martin.
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160703/eed5d82108ff48c868b27a44f560774b.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160703/9501970dfd63c44c2218ef0f1b9e7ba6.jpg)
Use the old fashioned double sided razor blades, I believe they are referred to as safety blades. They are flexible and good for scrapping of the excess of epoxy. Be careful use a piece of folded business card to protect you from cuts from the exposed edge.
C.heers Martin.
Tried using a razor but large peices peel off.
Done for the day. Finished the calipers...
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160703/eed5d82108ff48c868b27a44f560774b.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160703/9501970dfd63c44c2218ef0f1b9e7ba6.jpg)Tried using a razor but large peices peel off.
Done for the day. Finished the calipers...
I guess your talking about that mess you've smeared on your fork stansions?...Oh well, done now.
Epoxy works on keying into the substrate creating a mechanical bond.Polished chrome will not provide that.
The problem is the peel will pull out the pits too.So,abrasion is the way to go using a fine grade of wet n dry and hours of fun doing it.The fine scratches that Say 800grit will make is not too bad for the seal to work well.JO's fork gaiters ,street cred,idea will help,keep that situation out of sight and mind.
The twin pot Brembos look good.
Mounting the "ugly"rego plate on the side,is daft and dangerous,imho...best use it as a mud flap extension at the back and never clean it,or keep it in your jacket and when asked claim" it fell off",which is what we did in the bad Ol days and just threw it on the ground by the bike when we parked up at the pub.Those days are over,when a split second to decide wether to run or stop was all it took to "get away"or start grovelling. :oldguy:Yeah, we were proper rebels back then,alright.Just saying,you please yourself!
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The epoxy doesn't seem to be working out that well. I'm using 1200 and your right... it does take forever...
I sanded off some pits and I can still feel them. Maybe they are partially filled???
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Super glue or superglue gel might be worth a go, I've heard it can work. The problem is getting a clean surface for it to adhere to, you could try a brass wire brush followed by wax and grease remover. There is also a type of solder called Chronobraze which can be used to repair hydraulic rams, a mate used it quite a few years ago with success. I believe there is a you tube post on it.
Regards Martin.
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I guess you don't want to use the fork gaiters?What I saw from your pics was not too bad so a carefull removal of any sharps and you may find that's enough to get the stansions serviceable ...Like I said,way back in this thread,It's not actually a biggie,if you have gaiters.Your pits looked prety small?
All the best,anyway.
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I bought gaitors. I just thought that the fluid would get caught in the pits
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I heard that all the fuel injectors fire at the same time regardless if the Piston is ready for the fuel or not...
Was there ever a model of the K bike that each injector fired on its own?
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I bought gaitors. I just thought that the fluid would get caught in the pits
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Small pits,not much fluid.Most of the fluid is down the bottom and it rises up to lubricate the bushings.get rid of any sharp edges,fill any big pits and forget about it?A bit of oil above the seal is not actually too bad.Moisture will also accumulate there too.
I heard that all the fuel injectors fire at the same time regardless if the Piston is ready for the fuel or not...
Was there ever a model of the K bike that each injector fired on its own?
It would be stupid firing all cylinder fuel injectors at the same time.The Boffin would be taken round the back and shot for being a sabateur spy suggesting this idea.:idea2: However,your four cylinder sparks come in pairs.
I suspect your voice activated texting needs reprimanding...don't shoot the Boffin.Two coils and four plugs?One wasted spark each.
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I run really thick silicon grease ( fluidbloc damper grease ) under the fork seal dust caps. The theory being any crud will get caught up in the grease and not work it's way under the seal lip. I clean it out every 3-4 years and replace the grease,this has worked for the last 16 years. I use the same grease behind my rear master cylinder boot and around front master cylinder piston.
Regards Martin.
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Nice idea.
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I got some pretty thick bearing grease. I'll have to give it a try
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Another question...
The front brake lines on a k1100. For the standard config (NON-ABS... so not std config) from the Master-brake to the 1-2 splitter in the front fender and then down to the calipers:
Does anyone know the lengths?
- From Master BC to the Splitter
- Splitter to both the calipers
Looking to buy this along with adapters for it.
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/goodridge-shadow-stainless-steel-universal-brake-line.html
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2 pieces of stainless steel braided line for the splitter -> calipers.
- one end has a straight male connector, metric 10mm x 1.0, convex head. This will fit into the splitter on the fork brace.
- other end has a 45 degree banjo connector to accept a metric 10mm x 1.0 banjo bolt. This will attach to the brake calliper.
- Total length of the line is 38cm (15 inches) from the end of the straight male to the centre of the banjo fitting
1 piece of stainless steel braided line for the master cylinder -> splitter.
- both ends have 45 degree banjo connectors to accept a metric 10mm x 1.0 banjo bolt.
- Total length of the line is 100cm (39 inches) from centre to centre of the banjo fittings
With experience, I found the MC -> splitter line may be a bit shorter (90cm) and probably better with a straight banjo at the MC end. It would probably make a cleaner route.
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you know what? They do seem a lot smoother(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/e3f8e2db0b529083921d29643d2a14c9.jpg)
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you know what? They do seem a lot smoother(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/e3f8e2db0b529083921d29643d2a14c9.jpg)
Sweet!
Gaiters,grease,forget about it.
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Anyone have a manual on how to open the fork stanchions up?
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Nevermind my last post I ended up finding a manual. Here are some pictures. I am unsure how far you guys think I should disassemble? A little bit of corrosion can be seen, but I got rid of it. Probably some moisture got inside.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/66cbd5070ed9e5647607b20622ab1f5f.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/7b2e0851f8a15ff0aaef58a7563bba71.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/ca85b77682db09ef56f99609de9d3063.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/cf2676d392b34fdd733cd7ffb65be3ab.jpg)
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Make sure the grease you use is compatible with seals, dust caps and boots. That is why I use silicon grease, some types of grease will apparently degrade rubber. You could also use rubber grease.
Regards Martin.
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Sounds good. So I'm going to guess the shocks look fine since nobody's telling me to disassemble it further...
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Sounds good. So I'm going to guess the shocks look fine since nobody's telling me to disassemble it further...
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Hard to tell from your images.I havn't seen mine for quite a while.
So,no cracks or springs shattered?Reassemble and test (ride).Should be low risk but no jumps or stunts like wheelies or breaking the open road speed limit. :hehehe
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Took them all apart... this is a k1100 fork.
Cleaned and felt the springs. No cracks or any anomalies :)
So based on posts from here and other forums, they both require 400cc for a full teardown.
Can you help me find out what fork goes on what side :(
All the parts look the same except the plungers.
Which one is left/right...oops!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160708/1516aa702887d0150d35e81e0efded07.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160708/dfed44469e89aa0a0a416607caf20147.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160708/5fec7fc4336d88be4993a84f147a7787.jpg)
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Nevermind my last post I ended up finding a manual. Here are some pictures. I am unsure how far you guys think I should disassemble?
I guess it's the bigger hole that is the difference in the "plungers"?Does the manual identify which is which?
Do the forks have a fork brace bridging across from one slider to the other?
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They are being powder coated (the bottoms) I didnt keep track. Maybe it doesn't matter what side they go on?
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As long as you keep all the LH & RH parts separate and assemble as such. I don't think it will matter if you put them on either side as long as the legs are internally the same.
Regards Martin.
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The "plungers" are called damper cartridges in Clymers and shock absorbers in the BMW parts fiche. Clymer's diagram has no distinction between left and right but the MAX BMW fiche indicates there is a left and a right with different part numbers, jjs. Left is 31 42 2 312 077; right is . . . 078. Finding any numbers on them?
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Find the arrows; look at the pictures; read the text. Bingo! You'll have a clue of which might go where—courtesy of an online pdf of the K1100RS/RT workshop manual on MOTOBRICK.COM.
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Thanks. Looks like the right side is on the right side in the picture.
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Thanks. Looks like the right side is on the right side in the picture.
If you say so, jjs. I can't tell from here because I'd need to rotate the parts to be sure.
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160708/9b8898342002f20a6e1c4f62ebc89139.jpg)
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DAMN, Laitch, you a smart MF!
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DAMN, Laitch, you a smart MF!
You're probably smarter, Ace, but my childhood diet of cinnamon red-hots and Good and Plenty usually gives me the edge when it comes to interpreting Tapatalk the third time around. Hard to tell until the polls close and the voting is tabulated.
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:hehehe
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Would like to know if anyone here has installed an acewell with a BEP 2.0 or can translate their 19mb PDF...
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I am helping a guy install the BEP 2.0 with an Acewell 2853 on his K75.
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Also I've got some weird stuff they sent me, that I'm not sure what it is. I know for the BEP you just gotta plug it in. However their manual is not in English. I'm working on getting that converted while keeping the formatting and pictures.
The guy who sold it to me, told me that since I run a older model (before the float sensor), that I will have to add a separate light for the 4 L warning.
Not super sure but I also believe that they sold a model that had the RFID start?
Upon looking at the acewell manual it seems to be that I bought a remote control switch for the lap timer...
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160711/5b744ed436a4d781fa70468342ac14cb.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160711/cb8444cd5455b28aa1425f685d0b8904.jpg)
Trying to figure out what this is but the manual doesn't have any pictures...
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160711/8984db0992f1c16e3d1cd7cc14c8daf8.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160711/c0c21ac92ee44e115fe3a990f899f8ee.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160711/e13d443cb3eb017760d72179d33894b8.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160711/fb03fe2349f00085d1cf3e333b12cab4.jpg)
Just need to figure out where i am going to mount the BEP?
In other news, I am nearly finished with the wiring. Also painted some more plastic AND the tank, cowl, fenders and hubcap are being picked up today!! YAY!!
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Also I've got some weird stuff they sent me, that I'm not sure what it is. I know for the BEP you just gotta plug it in. However their manual is not in English. I'm working on getting that converted while keeping the formatting and pictures.
I converted the BEP v1.6 manual to English but not the v2.0 manual. I used Google Translate and the result was acceptable.
The guy who sold it to me, told me that since I run a older model (before the float sensor), that I will have to add a separate light for the 4 L warning.
Not true. Based on the schematic, the fuel level sensor circuit on the BEP is adaptable, and will handle the old and new style sensors equally well.
Not super sure but I also believe that they sold a model that had the RFID start?
Not to my knowledge. Maru built the v1.6 which was a basic adapter, and then developed the v2.0 which improved the end user installation experience. This was because the v1.6 required soldering skills. The v2.0 box does away with the need for that skill.
Upon looking at the acewell manual it seems to be that I bought a remote control switch for the lap timer...
Most of your pictures are of another device other than the BEP 2.0. I have no idea what it is actually.
The image below from your collection you posted is the only one of the BEP. The main harness has been separated out and wrapped up in plastic flex tubing. How do the wires terminate?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160711/cb8444cd5455b28aa1425f685d0b8904.jpg)
Trying to figure out what this is but the manual doesn't have any pictures...
No idea either.
Just need to figure out where i am going to mount the BEP?
It's a tight fit but it can be placed under the tank on the right side near the ICU.
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Thanks rbm.
The wires terminate the same, I just got rid of the old insulation and got the flex tubing instead.
The device I had no idea was water temp sensor and speed sensor. The lap timer price has a stopwatch switch and a mode button ( the same on the faceplate itself).
I will see if I can squeeze it in the right side by the tank, I was looking for a small compartment to fit it in that is watertight however
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:)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160712/9509cb35cf3febd5f36957dc6b9b0155.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160712/c24590e90bbb62eb682335819f96ad92.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160712/d139138ce638eb0774e357e72f049070.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160712/c85a1efe21151b352b1bbfd5ff5aabd3.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160712/9ec587575c445c343c6260fa7cb7ee46.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160712/4dbd2bfd52f6fd24bc1bb5f82df631ed.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160712/54da094e8eeabfcceb3c8d0f4c0cfe60.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160712/33b5bb18de168cd29a95553a265e7261.jpg)
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160714/85aeda867c9ae402c7a595d38bbcea56.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160714/39c121f71b413196ae7dc10a91d01393.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160714/2f0fb42606d4327b1246bcb041cf5179.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160714/3923df51c3d9b6d166141c8acbccf55c.jpg)
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Nice paint job :2thumbup:
Regards Martin.
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I converted the BEP v1.6 manual to English but not the v2.0 manual. I used Google Translate and the result was acceptable.
The BEP 2.0 v4 manual in English (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3UPbNZRyr1rTjBPRWRCbnBhaVk)
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Thanks rbm. Just in case anyone has the acewell 4X53, I got the wiring diagram from them. If you ever need one just send them an email and they're all help you out. I didn't even have to use Google Translate.
http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/57890fc522671/ACE-4X53W-XX%20A%20Wiring.pdf (http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/57890fc522671/ACE-4X53W-XX%20A%20Wiring.pdf)
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I converted the BEP v1.6 manual to English but not the v2.0 manual. I used Google Translate and the result was acceptable.
Not true. Based on the schematic, the fuel level sensor circuit on the BEP is adaptable, and will handle the old and new style sensors equally well.
Not to my knowledge. Maru built the v1.6 which was a basic adapter, and then developed the v2.0 which improved the end user installation experience. This was because the v1.6 required soldering skills. The v2.0 box does away with the need for that skill.
Most of your pictures are of another device other than the BEP 2.0. I have no idea what it is actually.
The image below from your collection you posted is the only one of the BEP. The main harness has been separated out and wrapped up in plastic flex tubing. How do the wires terminate?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160711/cb8444cd5455b28aa1425f685d0b8904.jpg)
No idea either.
It's a tight fit but it can be placed under the tank on the right side near the ICU.
Hey rbm,
Had a couple questions.
So far the RPM's do I simply attach it to one of the leads on the coil packs?
Also you had mentioned that the bep was adaptable for the fuel gauge? I was planning on plugging in the fuel wire into the fuel level part on the bep.
Does this suffice? Whould it simply only show the 4L or would it actually show the fuel level?
Thanks
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One other quick question, the speed + and the speed - , do those both get tied together in one port on the BEP or is it only the speed + ?
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So far the RPM's do I simply attach it to one of the leads on the coil packs?
The BEP doesn't route the Black/Blue wire (Pin 16) through to the output (it terminates the signal inside the BEP itself). To use the RPM feature of your Acewell, you'll have to find a way to get the ignition pulses to the gauge. It might mean that you need to locate the Black/Blue wire on the coil primary and connect a new wire.
Others who have used the Acewell found that they needed an R-C circuit to condition the signal (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,6814.msg47459.html#msg47459) on the Black/Blue wire prior to sending it to the gauge. If that doesn't work for you, you could try the suggestion in the manual and wrap a few turns of a wire around the #1 cylinder spark plug wire and connect that to the gauge.
Also you had mentioned that the bep was adaptable for the fuel gauge? I was planning on plugging in the fuel wire into the fuel level part on the bep.
Does this suffice? Whould it simply only show the 4L or would it actually show the fuel level?
Thanks
Apparently it will only show the low fuel condition, and not the full range of fuel level that the float is capable of. Try the modification I wrote up here (http://www.k100-forum.com/t9265-messing-with-the-in-tank-fuel-sender), and connect the float directly to the gauge.
One other quick question, the speed + and the speed - , do those both get tied together in one port on the BEP or is it only the speed + ?
I hope I understand the question to mean that Speed (+/-) are the wires from the speed sensor in the final drive. If I understood correctly, then Speed+ (Yellow) gets fed to the conditioning circuit inside the BEP; Speed- gets connected to ground inside the BEP.
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My Acewell has a speed + and - input.
The bep just says speed.
I could definitely try connecting the - to a ground.
my acewell has this, could this be used instead of wrapping around the cable? And as you said connect it to the coil?
If I remember correctly, someone said the coil packs fire twice, meaning 2 Sparks ignite when only one is needed. Meaning acewell would get two pulses instead of one?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160716/42cf7c7c029e2091e098171d5a7c9526.jpg)
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Oh, on the Acewell. My advice still stands - Speed- to Ground and Speed+ to the BEP "Speed" output. Normally, the Acewell would expect a SPST reed switch to be connected between Speed (+/-).
Yes, the K100 uses a wasted spark system meaning you'll want to program the Acewell for 2 cylinders, not 4.
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Oh, on the Acewell. My advice still stands - Speed- to Ground and Speed+ to the BEP "Speed" output. Normally, the Acewell would expect a SPST reed switch to be connected between Speed (+/-).
Yes, the K100 uses a wasted spark system meaning you'll want to program the Acewell for 2 cylinders, not 4.
Superb!!
Thanks so much RBM! :2thumbup:
Today:
Re-assembling the forks (dont have all the parts yet- mostly O-rings and stuff), re-adjusting the triple trees to be more loose and assembling the handlebars.
With luck I might fill her up with some fluid and gas and give it a test-run!! :eek:
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Ran into some issues that I did not anticipate. The K 1100 accelerator does not have the correct screws which is not a big deal since I'll just take it to the hardware store. Houses seem to be missing a cover on it that covers the Bowden cable connector.
The bigger issue however, is that since I had to modify the plate to accept the K 1100 cable ( and I don't know if this is because of the directions or because it was my fault)
But the cable is now too long.
The black marks are the slack. Any ideas how to solve? It is approximately 1 inch and that's with the adjuster in halfway to keep any useful adjustments in the future.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160717/332a52156f880b1e16e07cd31a91ca59.jpg)
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In the dark ages you used to be able to get cables with adjustable nipples, they were held in position by a small screw. Or remove your cable go to a wreckers and compare cables until you find one that fits. Or have it shortened.
Regards Martin.
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Going to see what I can find at the hardware store.
The other thing I was thinking of was taking a small drill bit and drilling out the center and then using some sort of epoxy or something to stick it in place.
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We used to silver solder them on due to he fact a lot of the cables were stainless steel. If you are competent and careful and either use heat paste or stick the cable in a bucket of water with only the end of the inner cable protruding it might be possible to make a new nipple and silver solder it on. The removable nipples might be available at a carburettor place, they used to be used on universal choke cables and throttle cables. I can also remember breaking apart an electrical connector block in order to make up a nipple.
Regards Martin.
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I and several others have converted K100 to K1100 TBs and K1100 front ends, and have not encountered this problem. In fact, the length of the K1100 cable is slightly short and requires modification of the plate on the TB. Which instructions have you followed?
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The one that's here on motobrick. I can link it later but for the moment I might have also bought the wrong cable I'm not sure. It was on eBay.
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I have a k100tb... is that why?
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Ah doesn't matter. I got it to work. I found one similar at the hardware store with a screw, then thread Locker'd it, and then ground off the metal that wasn't needed. Ta-da!
Just like the thread states:
Conventional but unconventional...
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160717/d19f5c7efe907f8b89ac08af6ca3eca8.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160717/43429a95f696cab72d98c1b7c0134432.jpg)
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:2thumbup: Necessity is the mother of
dementia invention.
Regards Martin.
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Will probably get another throttle cable and do the same. However I bet it is unlikely to break as much as a clutch cable.
Sent from my HUAWEI MT7-L09 using Tapatalk
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My article on K1100 front end installation: installing-k1100-front-brakes-on-a-non-abs-k100rt (http://www.k100-forum.com/t1223-installing-k1100-front-brakes-on-a-non-abs-k100rt)
Another article which covers the same topic: k1100-throttle-bodies-on-a-k100 (http://www.k100-forum.com/t1944-k1100-throttle-bodies-on-a-k100)
Both articles touch on the subject of K1100 front MC and the K1100 throttle cable adaption to the K100 TBs.
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Thank is rbm.
I have the guide on PDF in my drive and was referring to it. I however did not refer to specific part numbers. Maybe I bought the wrong cable... not sure.
But what I've done works.
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Congrats on the out of the box thinking.
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Got all my front end Fork parts today. Hopefully I will have the front wheel on tonight. Going to use this measuring cup to fill up my Forks, who would have known 400 cc equals 400 milliliters...(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160719/752821eeb384c2d1d23f32a09d0acf46.jpg)
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Going to use this measuring cup to fill up my Forks, who would have known 400 cc equals 400 milliliters...
I'm guessing most of the rest of the world who need to measure something
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Got the forks done, fluid put in.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160719/d1979142fec8c014b06afcb0d52ec6c9.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160719/12187b3eb7165450750223c8984a0225.jpg)
No hiccups, but then she said:
Not so fast!
2 bolts that hold the axle in got toasted somehow. I'm thinking powder coat got in the threads.
I got 12.8 hardness ( OEM is 8.8) bolts, mostly for the color and ease of availability. Anyway they went in and then they didn't. They were a lot harder to remove then install...
Figures:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160719/3c85fe01693bfd39f781e0a0fb27840b.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160719/3d1db008f62aab8f72b69e3a10818afe.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160719/db597078073f221e430485951a8c7581.jpg)
Going to drill out the remaining threads on both holes and then put a bolt on the other side instead.
Almost done:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160719/6629b25f1ef982a13335990dbcf10aff.jpg)
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Well that was fun. No idea why that's been happening...
One of the other bolts on the other side was starting to show signs when loosening. It was all the way in though.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160720/4d29525ed9f8e2365fc6d482aceffa85.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160720/7f75fa2125859a885c2c78f405770270.jpg)
Going to clean the muffler. I moved that 3 out of the 4 pipes were loose.
Easy enough just to retighten, or will I get so e sort of bad result by not replacing some gasket inside?(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160720/38d74a1e3dde99203d16295e0fbe3c19.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160720/370c2a19a9ab0470d2e9ce6ebef19857.jpg)
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Random question:
How do I tighten these?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160720/b20aac50301423dcb755a54f9f44574a.jpg)
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with old fashion side clippers (called oetiker pliers) like these. Available at big box hardware stores.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PCbG3D3vED8/V49UI_ICyVI/AAAAAAAAIqo/_NuZudUAtQEQbeiSNl1bGipvtllr5PmtQCCo/s800/ZZ34880_A.jpg)
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One variety is sometimes called a nail puller and used as such.
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sweet, thanks for the advice RBM and Laitch!
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2 pieces of stainless steel braided line for the splitter -> calipers.
- one end has a straight male connector, metric 10mm x 1.0, convex head. This will fit into the splitter on the fork brace.
- other end has a 45 degree banjo connector to accept a metric 10mm x 1.0 banjo bolt. This will attach to the brake calliper.
- Total length of the line is 38cm (15 inches) from the end of the straight male to the centre of the banjo fitting
1 piece of stainless steel braided line for the master cylinder -> splitter.
- both ends have 45 degree banjo connectors to accept a metric 10mm x 1.0 banjo bolt.
- Total length of the line is 100cm (39 inches) from centre to centre of the banjo fittings
With experience, I found the MC -> splitter line may be a bit shorter (90cm) and probably better with a straight banjo at the MC end. It would probably make a cleaner route.
A bit curious on these lengths. I did some measurements with plastic tubing and found something like
12in for Caliper to T Splitter.
26in from Master Brake to T Splitter.
I saw the 90Cm comment which is 35in. Why so long?
My measurements might be slightly off. The pre-cut and terminated hoses I was planning to buy are the inches from flange-to-flange.
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It would be important to understand the route I took to install the front brake lines to understand the lengths I chose.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Cdbl9Si8Sp0/V5FoKby8MKI/AAAAAAAAIsc/4pZKxrrFvawfD2zynHqv8hObDh11dvXvgCCo/s800/20160721_202056.jpg)
As you can see from this photo, I've taken a circuitous path from the master cylinder to the far left side of the forks, curved back towards the right and then merged into the T-splitter. This adds a significant length to the line but I chose this to:
- ensure plenty of slack to accommodate movement in the steering
- take advantage of cable clamps that were readily available on the headlight ears and triple tree
- future-proofing for any size handlebars that I may choose to install in the future
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--CvTT6_XDG0/V5FoKWH3yJI/AAAAAAAAIsc/j3GvCPS9xogbUyjRCATLCFvIVzMgVUacgCCo/s800/20160721_202116.jpg)
The lines from the T-splitter to the calipers are much more direct. Maybe the length is because of the choice of a 45 degree banjo. Maybe a different banjo would result in a different length line as well as a different routing.
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Buying brake cables tonight. Finished almost everything, but it wouldn't start. Turns out it was the ecu (?) Behind the forks. Reseated the connector and it turned over.
The muffler is out, so not a good idea to start.
But take a look, I'm extremely proud:(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160723/5bc1fb42dd5d90cdb1babc86a205fcd5.jpg)
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Nice.
Take your time,making sure it's safe to ride.
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Nice.
Take your time,making sure it's safe to ride.
I have been torquing everything to spec. I found I often over-tightened things.
The other thing that I am mad about is I bought ken-sean mirrors... well the right side has threads that go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise to tighten)... what the f is up with that?
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The other thing that I am mad about is I bought ken-sean mirrors... well the right side has threads that go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise to tighten)... what the f is up with that?
Your right-side mirror was made to fit Yamahas which have left-hand threads on the right mirror mounts. There is a right-side, right-hand stem unit for other motorcycles. For each style of mirror there might be three model numbers. If so, one of them is for Yamaha right-siders.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022ZT58Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
In the picture it shows the threads going the correct way...
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What can I say? The picture is of a left-hand mirror.
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I might try to order this instead:
https://www.amazon.com/Ken-Sean-911020-Composite-Mirror/dp/B0022ZRCFC/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t
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I might try to order this instead:
https://www.amazon.com/Ken-Sean-911020-Composite-Mirror/dp/B0022ZRCFC/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t
The company site (http://www.ksource.org/motorcycle-parts-details2015.asp?Lavel=2&partid=6&cat=GX) seems to verify that the part number for the first one you ordered was for a Yamaha and that this one is not, so it should work.
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Thanks Laitch!! :2thumbup: :2thumbup:
Bought my lines from Venhill USA online on their custom brake line builder.
http://www.venhillusa.com/products/custom-brake-line-builder.html
Was going to buy DCC but man I saved 50%. It was 200$ for everything, inc 2 day shipping. Dime city was like ~$350.
Finishing up cleaning the muffler and exhaust. Then re-attaching, adding fluid and starting her up to check for any issues/leaks.
Also I bought 6Ohm Load Resistors. They plugged into my LEDs I have. But the flashing didnt change. Its just as fast as without bulbs. I am going to try the mod to disable a pin on the flasher relay.
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Put fluid in there put some gas in, and put the Tank on and she started right up. I'll be at a little rough for a couple minutes and then all the sudden it seemed to smooth out a bit.
Some extra noise was coming from the fuel pump, but I only put 1 gallon in.
Also the acewell doesn't seem to show the coolant temp which has me worried a bit because the fan also never came on.
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Is the k100 temp sensor even able to read temperature or is it more like an off/on switch?
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Also the acewell doesn't seem to show the coolant temp which has me worried a bit because the fan also never came on.
How long did you run it and what was the air temperature where you were running it?
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80 Degrees and I think I ran it for 5 minutes, looking for leaks.
Am I correct in saying that the k100 coolant temp sensor is more like a switch? It doesn't actually relay temp to the Acewell?
To test could I short out the coolant sensor and it will turn on the fan?
Also, I believe Acewell sells some sort of adapter for one of the hoses to use their sensor...
(HERE: http://www.acewell.co.uk/Acewell%20Accessories%20and%20Sensors/Temperature%20Sensors/index.htm )
Unsure on size needed though.
Thanks Laitch.
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80 Degrees and I think I ran it for 5 minutes, looking for leaks.
5 minutes is too soon for that fan to turn on. That's a good thing. Your relationship with the Acewell is beyond me. What is slightly unsettling is picturing you doing prolonged idling of that bike at this stage. No leaks? That's good. Get it roadworthy, registered and insured then put it motion around the neighborhood. That'll expose glitches without washing down the combustion chambers with fuel.
If you idle it for 15 minutes and have wired it correctly, in temps of 80º either the fan will come on, the temp gauge will light or the bearings will seize.
In the meantime, you can do this (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8295.0.html).
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On the acewell: I suppose so.
Thanks for the info, I will look at that today.
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That's some gorgeous paint work...it really pops. Nice work!
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That's some gorgeous paint work...it really pops. Nice work!
Thanks so much JC 55. Here's some more pictures since I've got the seat. All I need now is those brake lines which should be coming in tomorrow. Then it's finished :D
I'm really happy that I had a vision in which didn't involve cutting the frame in any way. I really wanted to keep it as much original as possible which I believe I did minus the colors of course.
I wanted to be able to use the original hard cases which I still have but I still have to paint them.
The rear of course, I cut the rear mud flap too low so I will be getting a new one.
However I will cut it to below the license plate, which now that I realize, the license plate needs to be horizontal and in the rear of the bike in California to be legal.
Right now it definitely gives it a seventies or eighties Sports look with no rear mud flap.
The last thing likely would be the muffler guard which is being powder coated flat black like the clutch or intermediate housing.
I certainly hope you enjoy the final product that I have created. As I certainly have enjoyed every moment.
I have not planned any of this in advance. I simply went with the flow on this and decided later on in the build that I would go with gold, red and black.
When I took pieces to the powder coater, I pretty much visualized what it would look like on my bike and then decided what color I wanted it to be. More than once I returned or called and changed the color.
The brackets that you see holding up the headlight were originally going to be red but I figured there was enough red on the bike already.
This is pretty much the final product.
Both the front and rear will have red reflectors.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/611e112aa5ffa92a77b147b208c95277.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/ef9c1ccdf1dc3c8d4012c228dad39adf.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/9c3163244931d73e818ec4c080e0ad16.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/3b73d9ccac98ba0d644fce302481d13e.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/1da00833ac3d600b7e87710f603c7a10.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/850ced8887ffe0692e3f31f9aada7b5c.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/a0c297cece4a90dc0dd0fcfffb128bc4.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/a02d86c226c085b50c8ed7a6501f1468.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/85596f9b55653a1c77dda91b8ec0d6e6.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/c5d9d8673d7225bca0cd14aed807722b.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/0f9ef86464b16cea89f15e713dccdf37.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/022450a8c293069d597e1c6263768945.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/ca46556ea93d17fc1f36370fa56b5c41.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/2a46f8d1f4bb69454aa4b45e6d448991.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/8e3bfeea772cea678bd3b946a3cbd25d.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/fe61b3a6892ec1487310992f0b69fb79.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/9f877818b541dd43797a5bc664b675cd.jpg)
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Congrats on seeing this through,so far.You have achieved and I hope it remains a valuable reminder for many years in your possession.Seat is nice and even the bulk of the pillion not blending with the ducktail is eighties cool and the pillion would apreciate the comfort and visibility.
Just a couple of things,one aesthetic and one vulnerability and it's just my two cents worth.
The red frame bar under the rider's seat looks odd.The rear seat cowling's black line is truncated.It would be aesthetically pleasing if this was visually connected to the black of the fuel tank.I know you are aware of this because of how you framed these images.Just black sticky tape over that horizontal red tubing would provide a link but whatever works and there is the traditional ugliness that the lower tank has that would be worth hiding in the same sweep.I'd make a long panel,blended to the existing at both ends,mounted using the original mounting features.
The radiator is some what vulnerable without the original stuff surrounding it.Its a quality item and showing it off makes sense but...hiding it some how with close hugging "protection"would make sense to me....
Anyway,Great stuff!
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I would like to get the original side panels, I believe they're called, and a radiator cover as well.
I totally understand the aesthetic part though, as I had thought about cutting the hole off the back right and left side of the tank, the one that has the rubber on it.
As far as the side panels go do you think they should be flat black instead of metallic? I believe those would suffice in connecting the tank with the rear cowl.
Not only was I glad not to cut off the hoops on the tank, but I think if I wanted to get a tank bag it attaches there?
As usual, my typing on this phone always leaves my post somewhat hard to understand. Haha
Thanks for your advice The Dude.
Oh and I'd love to get a Parabellum windshield like the one that sold in the for sale Section.
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I would like to get the original side panels, I believe they're called, and a radiator cover as well.
I totally understand the aesthetic part though, as I had thought about cutting the hole off the back right and left side of the tank, the one that has the rubber on it.
As far as the side panels go do you think they should be flat black instead of metallic? I believe those would suffice in connecting the tank with the rear cowl.
Not only was I glad not to cut off the hoops on the tank, but I think if I wanted to get a tank bag it attaches there?
As usual, my typing on this phone always leaves my post somewhat hard to understand. Haha
Thanks for your advice The Dude.
Oh and I'd love to get a Parabellum windshield like the one that sold in the for sale Section.
Yeh,the original side panels would look good.since you missed the metalic paint run, flat black is next best thing.The aesthetic is more about shapes rather than finishes.That is first perceived over 20 feet away.
Good to not cut out the original stuff,leaves a psychological bridge back to standard at least.
The wind shield will help prevent your neck size from growing disproportionately from your shirt chest measurement size. :riding:
All the best
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You've done an amazing job with this project - looking forward to seeing it complete. Wanted to ask you how you got the exhaust so clean and shiny again? I'd like to get mine looking like that if possible - would appreciate any help:)
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I used a wire wheel and 800-1000-1200 wet sandpaper. I also used a metal polish rubbing compound as well. Although to be honest I spent more time on the exhaust tubes rather than the muffler itself. Since I know the muffler will be partially covered with metal guard.
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Okay thanks - I may give this a try. You did a great job - they look like new. Wire brush and then the sand paper followed by the polish compound correct?
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Yeah. I used wet Salford sandpaper too
Sent from my HUAWEI MT7-L09 using Tapatalk
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5 minutes is too soon for that fan to turn on. That's a good thing. Your relationship with the Acewell is beyond me. What is slightly unsettling is picturing you doing prolonged idling of that bike at this stage. No leaks? That's good. Get it roadworthy, registered and insured then put it motion around the neighborhood. That'll expose glitches without washing down the combustion chambers with fuel.
If you idle it for 15 minutes and have wired it correctly, in temps of 80º either the fan will come on, the temp gauge will light or the bearings will seize.
In the meantime, you can do this (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8295.0.html).
Hey Laitch,
So I tried what you had written in your post about the coolant relay. I've tested all three methods Kama for the fan and temp light.
I'm going to assume I tested everything correctly but my results show that nothing works. I would like to know where I should start troubleshooting.
Thanks
Edit: I am currently running through this Diagnostic page:
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/fan-diagnosis.shtml
Temp Probe test: 414 Ohms
(I ran it for a couple minutes before)
Fuse 6 was burned out. My research tells me its the FI/Temp sensor fuse? If so the bike still started...?
I dont have a temp sensor light. I just realized this. Ill have to order one. The acewell doesnt have a light for this.
Jumped Pin 15 to A2. The fan starts. Albeit I need to order a new one, it squeals a bit.
Tried jumping the temp sensor with a paperclip. The fan doesnt start. (was supposedly mentioned in clymers) Also it appears this circuit I think runs off of Fuse 6. I say this because when the fuse was removed, the bike started right up (when jumped). When I put a new fuse in with the temp sensor still jumped the bike will not start.
This is a little bit confusing.
On the IBMWR page it says that "touching a jumper wire to connectors 31 and A3 should turn on the over temp. warning light." 31= Ground. A3= Light. However on the Acewell the Light needs a + and not a - .
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Am I correct in saying that the k100 coolant temp sensor is more like a switch? It doesn't actually relay temp to the Acewell?
To test could I short out the coolant sensor and it will turn on the fan?
The temperature sensor in the stand pipe is is an analog NTC resistor that responds to temperature changes. However, the temp relay consumes that temperature information and does not make it available to any other circuit on the bike. So, no, the output of the temp relay cannot be sent to your Acewell and displayed as a temperature on the display. What it can do is send a on/off signal to a light that will illuminate when the water temperature is over 113 degrees Celsius.
Yes, to test you could short the temperature sensor to ground to test the fan operation.
On the early K100's, Fuse 6 is supplied power from the fuel injection relay. It supplies power to the temperature relay and the in-tank fuel level sender (old style with electronics). The engine may start with this fuse blown.
Not sure how you jumped the temp sensor based on what you wrote. Do you mean to say that you jumped pin "E" of the relay to ground? If so, this action simulates a grossly overheated engine (the resistance of the temp sensor would be very low when very hot). If everything is operating properly, the temp relay should detect the hot temperature and engage, turning on both the fan and the overheat light on the dash (the one you are missing).
If your temp sensor in the stand pipe is defective, it could send a reading to the ECU that will confuse the ECU and prevent the engine from starting. It is a protective mechanism in the programming of the ECU that will prevent damage to the engine if it thinks the engine is overheated.
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Inject a bit of oil into the bush bearing very close to the fan blades.This bearing is the source of standard fan seizure problems.
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Tested the sensor Ohms again. From the sensor itself Pin 1 is 804 Ohms. And the other pin (since as I understand it one pin goes to the FI Computer and the other is the cooling relay) is 790 Ohms.
Ground and Pin E.... 672 Ohms...
Fan works, when jumped.
I feel like Im missing something.
If I ground pin E. Nothing. Of course the relay is removed...?
Maybe its just me, but am I supposed to do these tests with the relay in-place?
Edit: Tried Grounding Pin E With Relay in-place. Still fan does not turn on.
Edit 2: Adjusted readings from Ohms.
Edit 3: Whatever I keep Connecting and testing it keeps blowing fuse 6.
Im almost thinking I should just give it a ride and see if it turns on. After I replace the fuse.
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Going to just install an override switch. Post here http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=6702.0 No point in being dumb about it.
I'll see if I can find a switch that fits right above the coil packs.
Sent from my HUAWEI MT7-L09 using Tapatalk
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Tested the sensor Ohms again. From the sensor itself Pin 1 is 804 Ohms. And the other pin (since as I understand it one pin goes to the FI Computer and the other is the cooling relay) is 790 Ohms.
What is the temperature of the coolant when you made this measurement?
Ground and Pin E.... 672 Ohms...
This measurement means nothing because the relay is a complex electronic circuit and it's uncertain exactly what resistance you're measuring at that point in the circuit.
If there is 12V at Pin 9 from Fuse 6 and the fan does not operate when you ground Pin "E", then your temp relay is not functioning. that might be why it's taking out Fuse 6.
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Hmm I might have a bad one. I did open it up but didn't see anything burned but that doesn't really matter.
I'll order a new one sometime in the future, but for now the override works. that's the only time the fan comes on is when the switch is on.
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And the temperature of the coolant, I honestly have no idea. I was watching the resistance increase as the bike cooled off though.
*************
I rode her today, it was pretty fun. I want to say I rode about 10 miles. I noticed that in 3rd gear the RPM needle would go sometimes all over the place above 3 or 4000 RPM. It was sort of floating and then it would return back to normal.
It didn't do this when it was at a standstill and I was revving the engine.
Also the rear shock is quite bouncy so I may either rebuild that one or get a new one.
Sent from my HUAWEI MT7-L09 using Tapatalk
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Also the rear shock is quite bouncy so I may either rebuild that one or get a new one.
[/quote]
Yeh,I got one too.its a pogo stick(look'em up)get something else.
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Curious for those that have a k1100 front end:
Where can I find LED lights that FIT in the holes next to the ignition switch (modded triple trees).
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160801/aa0d6111954f25745a06044e3fb0e852.jpg)
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Any of these (https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-wired-bolts/) work, jjs?
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Thanks Laitch! I bought two. The holes are 20mm wide. We will see, one for 4L gas level and the other for coolant temp or 5th gear.
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So I got both lights installed. One is for the 4 L gas light and the other is for fifth gear.
However it seems I have an issue with the 4L warning light. It's on all the time and I'm not sure why. I filled up the tank all the way up to almost the top and it still comes on.(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160806/8e58086ec90c46975ff228a8a8b704c1.jpg)
The only reason I can think of but I haven't researched it yet is that possibly the fuel sensor wires got reversed on the 4 pin connector on the bottom of the tank. I had to disconnect all four wires and make them longer since they started to crack in the very early stages of this build.(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160806/38f65df3fb1d4fa9d3339c2dfbfa4f5a.jpg)
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To clarify, the light comes on after 10-15 sec or so, after the ignition is on.
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The thread will help to explain the inner workings of the early fuel sender unit. (http://www.k100-forum.com/t1503-fuel-light-unit?highlight=fuel+sender)
If you measure the resistance of the 4L thermistor while immersed in fuel, it should read around 600 ohms at room ambient temperature. Take the measurement with the tank connector removed, and probe between the thermistor pin and ground pin (not frame ground) on the sender. If you measure lower than this, there might be a problem with the thermistor inside the sensor.
The reason it takes 10-15 seconds for the light to illuminate on your dash is because this is the time delay built into the BEP's design to implement the anti-slosh feature.
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These are the readings I got:
The picture is if you are facing the bottom of the tank connector.(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160806/812c07db5320d9cb8172fde7411818af.jpg)
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These readings were taking if you're looking at the connector that plugs into the bottom of the tank.(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160806/29c22ee1e38fa912f333833947d2326e.jpg)
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Where should I look to if the ohms look correct?
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That's a question to ask Maru probably. It seems that the Brotbox is being delivered a low resistance reading from the fuel sender even though the values you measured in isolation are correct.
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He sent me this for future reference in-case someone else has this issue:
*************
"i know this issue... roundabout 3 of 100 people have this issue...
the resistance of your harness is outside of specs. this is not a big Problem and if you can soldering, you can fix it in 2 minutes.
i write a German manual for this, but you only need the Picture inside for soldering. you must set a bridge to configure the BEP constant to the old Fuel-sensor. Look the attachment and let me know, you can soldering it. if not, you can send it to me an i do it for you and send it back. This is free, not need money (only money to send to me, i send it back to you free)"
*************
A rough translation of the PDF attached:
In rare cases it may happen that my circuit can not detect clean , Which
Tank sensor is installed . A resistance measurement can be usually the thermistor from
Swimmers differ .
But it may be that the harness has an unusually great resistance , then
no longer does this detection and the circuit goes from a float .
One possibility would be replaced the wiring harness or maintaining contact of the plug in
Triangle ( from the tank to the main line ) .
But there is a second solution :
Through a solder bridge in the BEP automatic detection can switched off and on permament
« Old sensor " are switched . The picture above shows where the solder bridge must be set ( red
Border).
If your not trusts you, send me the BEP back and I Solder you a bridge .
This service is free ( including shipping ) .
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Working on my bike today mostly working on the rear luggage case. I was wanting to ask Kama someone on this forum told me that the luggage piece in the rear Centre could fall off if some sort of rubber spacer or something like that was put in some place. It was over four months ago when they told me so I don't quite remember I'll take a picture though on the bottom.(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160811/558b4f15d6e0b6a47aaddca5cb15b6fc.jpg)
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Working on my bike today mostly working on the rear luggage case. I was wanting to ask Kama . . .
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Is Kama the digital diety that Tapatalk users ask to put them in touch with forum members, jjs?
That the top case falls off is news to me. What usually happens is that the lid flips open after the bike hits a bump at speed and the box distributes its contents along the road. An hour later you discover that it's empty when you stop for refueling. Reinforcement of the latch, changing the latch to a different style or cinching the lid closed are the remedies.
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Also the top box can commit suicide on bumps, the T pin in the box disengages with the rack. The cure is to put some of that dense foam rubber between the box and the rack. You need to put enough so that you have to push the box down to engage the T pin.
Regards Martin.
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Also the top box can commit suicide on bumps, the T pin in the box disengages with the rack. The cure is to put some of that dense foam rubber between the box and the rack. You need to put enough so that you have to push the box down to engage the T pin.
Regards Martin.
My box took out its despair on me rather than throwing itself on the road. Thanks for presenting the preventive solution for boxicide, Martin. Makes sense.
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Not the best BMW design.
A mate(my push starter) always has a couple of bungee loops over lid,box and all.
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What was the largest rear box that BMW made?
I fixed the bep and everything works much nicer :)
Kama is when I say comma I the voice to text and writes it as kama...
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There was a large top box that was available for the K100 as an option. Not many of them around.
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The parts lists show two top cases for the classic K bikes, a 22 liter and a 35 liter.
The 22 is the iconic model and the one you need to have.
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Hey Mike, thanks for the pictures on the rear case. I probably won't upgrade or get the rear shock until the winter.
I've run into two particular issues, one being that the Antigravity battery that I bought seems to have issues charging. It's a 16 cell 480 cold cranking amps. The optimate charger I also bought with it specifically for lfp batteries or lithium-ion has the red flashing test light.(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160818/95014a5a4d870b5c2a13f2e19abdd51f.jpg)
The only thing I can think of that is on when the key is off, is the clock on the Acewell. The battery reads approximately 12.3 volts. I talked with Antigravity today and they told me to send in the charger and the battery, but I'm curious to know if it's the bike charging system or the battery. Bike starts up just fine. (I will update this post on alternator charge volts).
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The other issues is at 80 to 100% throttle the bike starts to slightly stall and stops accelerating. I'm wondering if the mixture is too rich, I'm also at 5800 elevation. There's supposedly an elevation key on this bike but I have not used it and I'm wondering if that is the issue. I had read somewhere that it was a useless feature but now I am curious to know your opinion Laitch or RBM.
**Im going down to sea level- Id like to see if that changes anything**
- Ill add an external switch for the elevation
- I also need to sync the throttle bodies, idle etc.