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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: jurekpias on March 06, 2016, 05:20:58 PM
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Hello
I know that this thread has been processed multiple times but i cant find answers for some important (for me question). When i buy my brick i give it to "specialist" who had to done a synchro - he do it i paid per almost 100$ (for the curios its 400 PLN - polski zloty). So dont thinking much i bought a carbtune pro to do synchro by myself and my questions is:
1) The guy wchich did me a synchro tell me that dont even try do it yourself becasue you dont know values of mmHg for the synchronisation if you do it without knowing that values you will burn a hole in pistons or burn your valves - the question is whether he told the truth or lied and only thing that's important when doing that thing is to have the same values on each cylinder.
2) If there is such a thing when u synchronise it like a reference cylinder. Some sources say that 3rd cylinder is base for rest, is any sequnce for adjusting or better a description step by step with pics?.
Sorry for basic questions for you but i'm still learning my brick (in every day I repair larger equipment but have some experience in bikes but rather older)
Thanks for the answers
P.S Sorry for my english it is not so
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If you are only going to be adjusting the Brass air bypass screws, then it doesn't matter which cylinder you use for a reference, only so long as they are as equal as you can get with the engine idle at 950 +/- 50.
Only when you play with the butterfly linkage adjustment screws(which you really shouldn't) do you use #3 as the base line(that is where the throttle cable connects).
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+1 Scott but as stated DO NOT under any circumstances adjust the Butterfly Synchronization Screws, which should have a dab of blue paint on them.
Regards Martin
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There is no absolute mmHg value for synching TBs. They are set relative to each other. There should not be risk of the outcomes your mechanic told you (burn a hole in pistons or burn your valves) by adjusting the brass idling screws.
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Thanks for answers
So the procedure should look like below (if i make any mistake correct me please)
1. Turn on the bike and warm into normal temperature
2. connect carbtune into vaccum ports
3. In idle speed (950 +/- 100 RPMs) all colums of my vacuometr should show same (or similar) values
4. Check that shows the same values in whole range of RPMs
Thats all?
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1. Turn on the bike and warm into normal temperature
2. Turn off the engine and connect carbtune into vacuum ports
3. For each brass head screw, turn them clockwise until they gently bottom out. Keep track of how many turns you needed to take to reach bottom. Turn them back out counter-clockwise 1-1/2 turns.
4. turn the engine back on and select Cylinder 1 as a reference. Adjust the brass screws in the other TBs until all the columns line up.
5. In idle speed (950 +/- 100 RPMs) all columns of my vacuometr should show same (or similar) values
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Thanks maybe in 2-3 weeks i'll try, one more thing explain please for what is point 3
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To put it another way...
As a baseline you want all of the brass air bypass screws at 1.5 turns counter-clockwise from bottomed out (cannot turn any further clock-wise).