MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: dwatson on February 28, 2016, 07:22:52 PM
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This a continuation of my orig thread which dealt with clutch issue for this 93 k75. After installing new clutch friction plate and putting it back together, I cleaned the gas tank which had some oxidation, deteriorated hoses and bad gas. As a result of the tanks issues I have replaced hoses fuel filter. Also replaced air filter and battery.
Just to find9 a no start situation. I am not hearing the fuel pump initializing and would think I would based on other's comments. I do have spark at the plugs. I followed the plug wires to the coils and based on other comments my coils are go to plugs 3, 2, 1 going from left to right instead of 1,2,3. Is this normal??
Next I will remove the fuel pump and ck to make sure it isn't clogged. Any other suggestions?
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Fuel pump could be bad, fuel filter as well.
Injectors could be clogged or stuck open.
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Make sure the fuel tank electrical connector is clean and making a good connection. Those things are notorious for shitty connections that prevent the fuel pump from running. There are owners who have replaced that connector with a four terminal trailer connector.
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Well I cleaned the contacts at both the 4pin and the jetronic with no success. Just removed and tested the pump by doing a direct connect to the battery. It would pulse but not run. Since it was directly powered I am assuming it is frozen or at least obstructed with debris. Any other suggestions before looking for a replacement?
I do plan on going ahead and replacing both the screen and the rubber damper upon reassembly.
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Reverse power briefly. Soak in tecron or other solvent.
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Sorry I did in fact try reversing polarity and got the same results, pulse only. I will try soaking the unit to see if it improves results.
Thanks for the suggestion.
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In addition I did ck w/ohm meter it shows 1.4 at the posts.
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To fix my brick that was sitting for a number of years, we had to replace the fuel pump/filter and the injectors, which were stuck open.
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Well after removal of the existing fuel pump, isolation damper, and basket filter this is the final story. The pump remained frozen even after soaking the the unit with penetrating oil, in parts cleaner, and finally in MEK and attempting to free it by reversing the polarity.
So I am now considering going with EME aftermarket pump w/isolation rubber and basket filter for ~$210 or with doing some Southern Engineering with an Airtex or similar auto pump for considerably less.
Just wondering if there has been any other experiences collected other than those noted in the
"Aftermarket Fuel Pump" thread.
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I decided to spring for the new BMW pump. ($$) It increased the level of commitment and helped stay motivated to get it working.
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Personally I'm running with the alternative Ford pump in my '97.
I changed it out when I was trying to diagnose an intermittent pump run issue.
The issue wasn't the pump after all, but the multi-pin plug contacts at the motronic were dirty and not always activating the fp relay.
I never bothered to put the stock one back in. I have it as a spare now.
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Hi Scott,
Do you have the Ford Mustang v8 pump in your 97?
What brand is it?
Do you have the part number for it?
Does it use a pre-filter sock?
Also, what condition was the VDO pre-filter in when you took it out of the tank?
Mine was ripped/unraveling along the seam at the long end and black. New, color is bright green.
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Yep, it is the Ford FI fuel pump.
No, I don't have a part #
Yes, it does have a pre-filter sock.
My old stock pre-filter screen wasn't torn, until I removed it from the bike.... doh. I temporarily stapled it with my office stapler so I could use it if needed, but I am looking to locate a new one to put with it.
I think it's a Bosch 16 14 1 341 233.
I've tracked down the sock with new filter and clamps as a kit from Amazon for $20.
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Here's some stuff I found online about fuel pumps in the last couple of years. I haven't tried any of it out as my original pump is still working: 1995 BMW K75RTA 45,000 miles.
Pump specs:
Facet-Purolator FEP2042 In-Tank Fuel Pump,
1991-1993 Ford Escort,
1986-1995 Ford Taurus,
1988-1994 Lincoln Continental,
1986-1995 Mercury Sable,
1991-1993 Mercury Tracer. About $40. Positive (violet) to big tab, negative (gray) to small tab.
First guy who did it and wrote about it:
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/fuel-pump-install.shtml
I'm just passing this along.
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Well hello once again. It has been awhile, but finally getting back to the K75. I have now installed a new fuel sensing unit along with new pump, filter, and hoses. Put it all back together but no cigar. It has spark, plugs getting fuel but will not fire up. Once or twice it acted like it wanted to catch but in the end nothing. I have checked the wiring going to the coil and verified the black/blue goes to #1 cylinder, black/red to #2, and black/green to #3.
Any suggestions or should I admit defeat and find a real mechanic? My head is almost bleeding from all the scratching I've been doing lately. :dunno2:
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Rechecked and re-cleaned connections at Jetronic and 4pin. Will get some Starter Fluid spray. Question can I just spray through the air box on the right side or will I need to remove this to get to the plenum box feeding the injectors?? Will check the voltages, but starter is spinning well.
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My experience is a K will run if it things are right..... Starter fluid might get it to kick over and even run a little but that won't be the fix. Johnny just posted in another thread about hooking the fuel lines up backwards. It's easy to do. You must have had the tank off, right?
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I followed the plug wires to the coils and based on other comments my coils are go to plugs 3, 2, 1 going from left to right instead of 1,2,3.
If I'm understanding this statement correctly, it indicates your bike is not set up like mine (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7825.msg56154.html#msg56154). Your ECU to coil wiring colors are the same but your left-to-right spark plug lead to coil connections have plug connections 1 and 3 reversed, unless you changed them after your first post.
If my interpretation is correct, take the plug wire off cylinder one's plug and put in on cylinder three's; put cylinder three's on cylinder one's plug.
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Scott - I have the fuel line from the rearward fuel tank connection going to the rail connection at the front of the rail. I believe that is correct.
Laitch- I have switched the #1 and #3 leads.
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Laitch- I have switched the #1 and #3 leads.
Ok. If you haven't checked all the hoses and connections to the airbox, now is the time to do it. Colly just got his bike running after he reconnected a disconnected hose at the box. May as well pull it out and clean the whole area. If there is no obvious problem with the airbox assembly, while it's out you could check the water temperature sensor function. Explanation and values would be found scrolling toward the end of this page (http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/K100/download/bike-wont-start1.htm).