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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: jlivin28 on February 03, 2016, 11:27:58 AM
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I recently stumbled across an ad for a a guy selling a 1987 K100LT with 40,000 kms on it for a real solid price. here is the hitch. It is missing the tank and doesn't run. He says it has compression and turns over but sometimes those terms mean different things to different people. So I come to you brick enthusiasts.
If you showed up to this guys house to look at this bike what are the first things you would check? How do I make sure this really is a sweet heart deal that needs just a little work to run again for a lifetime instead of a total catastrophe waiting to bankrupt me? Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
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I would take a good look at the condition of the rest of the bike. You might want to take a bunch of pictures and post them here for our perusal. There are a fair number of people here who have bought non-running bricks and brought them back to life with the help of the brain trust. There may be a number of age related problems that need to be resolved in getting it on the road.
If the price is right it might be worth buying it. You will need new tires, and a tank with fuel pump and filter. You are looking at a minimum of $500 for those items, plus all the fluids and consumables like plugs and brake pads. There may be a number of cracked hoses and intake bushings. This stuff will add another couple hundred to the restoration. If the bike has been sitting for a real long time you might need a rear brake master cylinder, another $100 for a used one.
Bottom line is, since I can't see it, I would say the bike is worth no more than $1000 CAN. If you can get it for $6-700 it would be a decent deal. Be aware that I reserve the right to change my mind after seeing some photos.
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One thing to keep in mind about a k-bike is that they're like women; they need lots of TLC, but if you give it, they treat you well and it's worth it. If you want something that's low-maintenance that you can just get running and not have to touch for years, you might want to look elsewhere.
Fortunately, you're looking at an 87. I have an 85 k100RT, "First Year K" (FYK), or often sarcastically called "Finest Year K". Lots of bugs. But they worked out a lot of them by 87.
You're going to want to check the drive shaft splines. This involves separating the final drive from the swing arm. If these are dry or the splines look flat, that's a bad sign. This is a regular maintenance item on these bikes to grease the splines. I do it every 1-2 years. Some do it every year, others say as infrequently as every other tire change.
You can count on the mileage being wrong. These bikes are notorious for speedometer issues that result in lots of unrecorded miles. I've owned mine for at least 3 years and still don't have the speedometer working reliably yet. That having been said, I wouldn't worry about the mileage, as the engine is solid and will easily last hundreds of thousands of miles.
Other things to keep in mind when buying a k-bike. They're hot. Hot air from the radiator heats up the fuel tank and your legs. I converted mine to a naked bike, which helped, and also put new insulation on the underside of the fuel tank. It's not bad at all now. If it has the stock rear shock, it's crap; you'll want a new one. Oh, and the vibration! I almost forgot. It vibrates. It's better or worse at certain RPM's, so you'll learn what speeds you like to stay at. Fortunately, this one's an LT, so it has the most vibration insulation of any trim. Still, you may find yourself doing various mods to better secure fairing pieces, etc. Oh, and change the brake fluid every year. I didn't at first, then it started squeeling like a pre-teen girl at a Bieber concert. When I changed the fluid, it was brown! Most people never change their brake fluid, but in this case, it is necessary.
It was actually hard to think of bad things about k-bikes. Despite all that, they're reliable, they handle well, I love the ergonomics, and it's just fun to ride. Starts right away every time. Despite being a large-ish touring bike, the way the engine is mounted makes for a low center of gravity and sporty handling. Best of both worlds. I have all the luggage options too which is awesome for road trips. Plenty of power too; I've accidentally lifted my front wheel off the ground on take-off more than a few times :D
But probably the first thing I would do, if it were me, is ask why the fuel tank is missing. Seems odd to take a fuel tank off a running bike and never replace it. And if he knew that's all it needed, why not get another tank, put it on, and get a lot more money for it? Sounds fishy. Also keep in mind that the fuel pump, filter, and level sensor are inside the fuel tank, so those are probably missing too. That may be an additional expense to consider.
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Anybody local who's looking will already have seen it so don't know why not post a link ...
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sport-touring/leamington/bmw-k-100-lt-and-k100-parts/1136480929?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true (http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sport-touring/leamington/bmw-k-100-lt-and-k100-parts/1136480929?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true)
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haha yep that is the one. Didn't think there was much in there of extra use but maybe you guys can pick something out of the pictures that I can't. I have asked why the tank is missing as that does seem like some pretty key information.
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Sounds fishy.
Sure does. Rear drive spline and driveshaft spline inspection is essential.
How do I make sure this really is a sweet heart deal that needs just a little work to run again for a lifetime instead of a total catastrophe waiting to bankrupt me?
You can't be sure with a bike with an engine that doesn't run. Oh there are leakdown and compression tests, alright.
Unless I had moderate experience in automotive/motorcycle repair, had a lot of time on my hands, had a weather-resistant space to work on it, had money to burn and wanted to wrench more than ride, or figured I could turn a profit on the parts, I wouldn't buy it.
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My buddy has the stuff to do compression and leak-down tests. Those were going to be our first step. Sounds like the splines are really important so I guess that is next on the list.
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Idleness and moisture are enemies of these bikes. You should establish that the electronic control units function to some extent. Test circuitry; check electrical connections. See if the current owner will provide refreshments while you're doing it. Don't accept offers of mood altering substances though—especially uppers.
Some people rise to a challenge like this bike presents either from interest or economic necessity although I don't believe there's much money to be saved here by reclamation. I'd rather be riding.
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As long as you are going over it, you may as well check the brakes. Makes sure that a small amount of lever pressure will lock the wheel from manual turning. Make sure the the brakes don't drag when you release them.
On the rear brake master cylinder there is a rubber boot. Look inside the boot. There should be no brake fluid inside that boot. If there is, it means the cylinder is leaking, probably because the cylinder bore is corroded. That means you need a new master cylinder.
Under the seat you may find some information stickers for things like paint code. If the bike has had the speedometer changed by the dealer under warranty there may be a sticker under there showing the date and the miles on the old odometer.
As far as identifying if the mileage is accurate look at the footpeg plates right above the pegs. At 42,000k's some paint wear should be visible, but it should be minimal.
What kind of shape are the mirrors in? It is almost impossible to even have the bike just lean against a wall without damaging the mirrors. They are a good indicator of drops.
The seat is an aftermarket Corbin. If in reasonable condition, it can be worth about $200. Speaking of things, it looks like some of the interior fairing parts are missing. They can be hard to find, and pricey when you do find them.
All in all, judging from the dust, it looks like it hasn't been run in a while which means that there will be a lot of work to get the injectors working. A lot of bikes in that shape have been resurrected and are happily running so there is some hope here. Assuming you are doing all the work, it looks like this bike will cost at least as much as one that you can buy that is already running.
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I wouldn't waste my time on a non-running bike unless you needed a parts bike.
Buy a bike you can ride.
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Just as a point of comparison - I bought two complete, running K75Ss for less than $2,000 (that's for both bikes). They both had different problems (one with bad transmission) and I'm going to sell the leftover bits when I'm done.
The one in the ad looks like a parts bike to me unless you can get it for much less than the asking price.
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I would only buy it at a price that I could make a few bucks on selling parts if it didn't work out.
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Hard to tell from the quality of the pictures, but I saw no headlight, Gryph mentioned missing fairing interior pieces, I couldn't tell if the coils were still mounted. I saw the plug wires were laying on the work bench, couldn't tell if there was a starter or not......
Even in the description says mixed parts, K100LT and K100 std.....
My opinion, even at the 1000 he's asking, it's too much even for a parts bike.
Like others have mentioned, I'd look for a decent running bike that is ready to be ridden, not wrenched on.
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A lot of faring parts missing. My guess is owner worked on it and it has issues. Unless all parts there you can get a running bike for less than this will cost to get running.
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Just checked Beemer boneyard and a tank is 150 USD + shipping and exchange =300+ CDN at least .... its a parts bike. Drum brake rear, no ABS etc...
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:grimreaper:
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NO NO NO NO NYET!!!! $400 tops. You could get a thousand or more parting it out but that lots of work and you're left with a pile of scrap. If you try to make it a runner I guarantee you're run into problems no one forecast. Probably why somebody gave up on the thing.
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You will not enjoy the experience that this bike will provide......this is not the way to enjoy K-bikes. Too many issues will come up, and you wont be riding for 6-9 months, if then Find another bike, that has been taken care of, that is being ridden.
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I was just looking at the ad again. It appears that there are 4 side cases, 2 top cases, and probably a lot of other extras. If you could get everything at a price that makes sense to you, you might be able to sell the duplicates and get enough to buy the missing bits. But (as others have stated) you should expect some surprises.
I'd be curious about why there is not gas tank. I mean, did the guy start parting it out already? If so, why?
I have an extra tank from a 1992 K75s that has some dents and needs to be cleaned out. I'd let it go for cheap - but it's blue and I'm not sure about compatibility with K100.
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Apparently the guy used the tank for another K100 he had. But sounds to me like I should save my shekels and look to pick-up something that is running. Thanks for all the feedback guys! Much appreciated.
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What are the hassles involved in bringing a U.S. bike into Canada? I like shopping Craig's list for bricks(bought three of them that way).
You can use this link to search all of the U.S. Craig's List sites. Gives you a lot of options.
http://www.searchcraigslist.org/
It will give you a good idea of what is out there, and what people are asking. There are bikes out there that are ready to hop on and ride home.
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From what I understand its really not bad to import. Only hiccup is you need to provide 48 hours for your paperwork to go through before you cross which can get a little iffy when travelling to pick something up. I will do a wider search I think.
The other consideration is that the Canadian dollar is at almost 1.40 so everything in the US is 40% more expensive these days. Puts a dent in cross-border deals.
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I have seen a fair number of bricks on Canadian Craig's Lists. Also, the terrible exchange won't last forever. Should swing a little better by summer. There's a lot of nice bricks out there, take your time and enjoy the hunt.
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I'd like to throw in my 2 cents. I bought my 85 K100RT about 3 years ago for $1,700 USD and considered it a great deal. Ran great, long-time owner--older gentleman who took great care of it, and it came with all the luggage, including (the official BMW) tank bag (AWESOME! :riding:). The following year, my dad got a newer K1100, during which time I was helping him shop for a K-bike, and a friend of mine was more recently also looking at K-bikes. And from that experience, it seems to me that K-bikes are getting more scarce. I figure most of the good ones out there are owned by people who love them and don't want to sell. Of course, it could be different where you're from, although MN isn't far from the border. :wave:
So I would say, if you know you want one and you're serious about getting one, be willing to pay what it's worth. And be quick! I've seen a lot of sweet deals that are already gone the day after they're posted. It wouldn't hurt to have cash in hand.
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TOO MUCH MONEY. I bought a bike w/24,000 mi that had sat since 1994 :nono. I happen to love the bike and was dedicated to the project...so now I have a $3800+ fully operational K bike. This fall my bike's twin came up for sale http://kansascity.craigslist.org/mcy/5374857453.html (http://kansascity.craigslist.org/mcy/5374857453.html). It is still for sale :hehehe after 4 months. Look for something running like this one, and pay the extra now as compared to later unless you love mechanical work. I happened to have a crapper of a summer so I spent 3 months on my "restoration". My bike had sat inside all of it's life thankfully.
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Find out if the guy has all the parts, except the tank. The bike actually looks clean. 4Ok clicks is not a lot of miles. Mine had 96,000 and hadn't been running for 9 years (ok, maybe it was started a couple of times in 9 years....hard to know). But it hadn't been licenced for road use in 9 years. The gas was putrid, the interior of the tank was coated in some beige crap (which took a lot of work to get out), rubber bits were mostly done (brake lines are original) and the crankcase oil was bunker B. Oddly, the brake fluid was clear. I had service records to 42,000 miles and then it stopped.
Took her apart, cleaned and greased, re-assembled and it's a match made in heaven. She runs better by the mile. Haven't touched the injectors. Did have to replace a fuel pump but only because I broke the brittle plastic connector off trying to remove the fuel line.
If the guy can give you a comprehensive accounting of the bike's past it may well be worth making him an offer. I paid $1,400 CDN for my bike and put as much into it...plus innumerable hours of labour and love. You'll only get her out of my "cold dead hands!" at this point. Do your homework on the tank first. Gryph was good enough to source fuel pumps for $20 US. You're on the border. That should be easy.
Don't pass her by just yet, in my opinion. Go to the guy with your well-articulated argument and concerns and make him an offer.
We should be restoring Bricks, not parting them out....imho!
Good luck