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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: toddlmr on January 08, 2016, 08:32:29 PM
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Hey, I not real good at taking photos and documenting but am gonna give it a try. I picked up a 1985 k100rs. It has 70k. I picked it up in IL. I was slightly worried about rear drive but decided to go for it. BTW... My first BMW. Here is a photo from ad.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160109/744803e7fd13dbfb69f9e17e8ce074f6.jpg)
I was told it ran good. The speedo didn't work and fairing needed repair. Upon inspection it ran OK, didn't wanna idle (30 degrees out). I rode it a short distance and noted clicky, sticky steering. We neogotiated a fair price and I loaded it up for a long journey. It went to west Michigan and eventually back to Texas. I rode it a short distance (5 miles) same assessment, didn't want to idle and steering head bearings that didn't feel good. Also, the speedo was torn apart and the case was broken. The fairing was as described but it wasn't "ready for paint". After a long trip back to Texas I tore into front end first. I had no trouble and found bearings that the grease had become solid. I pulled races and soaked everything in gas. The next day I finished cleaning them and much to my surprise, they looked perfect. I repacked and reassembled everything. Bingo! Feels great!!! Next I tore into the rear drive (biggest worry). Much to my surprise the splines looked Great!!! I had to change out swingarm bearings. Still have to finish this up. Next, I was trying to figure out a speedometer. I found an old post about Overseas Speedometer. I talked with Rick and since he lived 20 mins from me, I took the speedo over and met with him. What a great guy!!!! He gave me a fair estimate of total repair that I was happy with. Today he called and told me speedo, tach, odometer and tripometer all function perfect. He is replacing the cover (broken by PO). Also, he found rust on circuit board. We don't thing gear indicator will work but all the other lights are functional. Lastly, he is gonna install red LED lights which will match red color! I expect to get by the end of the month. Today, I talked with a friend who owes me a favor and is gonna get my body panels and fairing painted for an awesome price! It should also be in by the end if the month. Next task is cleaning up engine and frame. The fairing mirrors are gonna get replaced with stem mirrors and flush mount turn signals. Here is a photo of what it looked like when I got back to Texas. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160109/35c3365748dca5d7c5065b2dfc474770.jpg)
Next is fairing damage and half ass repair.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160109/dbd0c15bc7e29ef67d919069f0f9bf5e.jpg)
Here is fairing mounted. I do not want to run lower fairing pieces. I want to reaping valve covers.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160109/8af3a995d94b2cf47f959c9c742debc7.jpg)
Here is a photo of all pieces that need paint I sent to my body guy. The battery panels are grey.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160109/99504e2c86e4995998d5a9547e39edba.jpg)
I'll probably done working on it til Monday. Working all weekend. Comments appreciated!!!!
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:mm
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I think you did a pretty good job with the photos documenting where the process is, todd; they're appreciated.
You can change "International" to "Overseas" in your original post by clicking on the modify button above it, making your change then clicking the "save" button. That'll keep people like me from launching a Google search for "International Speedometer" that hours later finds them on the website of a Peruvian donkey breeder, before they've read your corrective post. :yow
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Here are a few more photos:
This is the driveshaft splines Moly'd up and ready for assembly.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160109/6e722e1d14b524045f8252243f47c718.jpg)
Rear drive spline lubed and ready.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160109/5206e11ffea29232ca0a0a7670d75ab0.jpg)
The bike as it sits tonight.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160109/7370c8df372d6f22dcce372132900116.jpg)
More progress later...
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Looking good. I like your idea to eliminate those mirrors that fall off if you look hard at them. Keep the photos coming. We always like following a project like this.
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Thanks Guys!
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You are clearly a man on a mission! Impressive how quickly you have gotten down to basics.........keep us posted on your progress.
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Good advance and well documented.
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Great thread, thanks. Welcome to the club!
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Anybody have experience or opinion on stripping valve covers vsrepainting? I need to do something to make them look better. Also gonna pull off the muffler and sand a paint. It's rusty.
Thanks
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Best paint match for black valve cover I found is Rustoleum Satin Black, as far as stripping you could try a paint stripper, or a flap wheel sander but I wouldn't go too coarse. You would have to sand the channels by hand. Once the paint is stripped you could then buff to whatever level of shine you want.
Regards Martin
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I just got a bunch of parts back from powercoating - including valve and crank covers, footpeg plates, exhaust shield, footlevers. I had them do flat black, which is pretty close to satin black paints. I have used some VHT brake caliper paint and engine case paint. So far, I've just done small bits, but I think they will go nicely with the flat black powdercoat. I plan to paint the balance of the engine/tranny and driveline. Haven't assembled yet, so sorry, no pics.
I like powdercoating, because it is so tough and easy to clean. If you care about keeping things like the stripes or BMW lettering in the bare metal color, you would have to grind off the powdercoat on those areas. I don't care about that, so am happy to have it blacked out.
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That is going to look sharp as new.......look forward to pics, assembled or not. What did the powder coating run?
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That is going to look sharp as new.......look forward to pics, assembled or not. What did the powder coating run?
I just posted a pic and answer to your question over in my "Two into One" project thread.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=7638.msg55463#msg55463
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That is going to look sharp as new.......look forward to pics, assembled or not. What did the powder coating run?
I just posted a pic and answer to your question over in my "Two into One" project thread.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=7638.msg55463#msg55463
Thanks for the replys! I am really excites to get it running! I have been bike less since June when the engine in my Buell tanked.
Keep the comments coming!
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Today I made it out to work on the bike for a few hours. I got the rear drive back on. I was surprises to find out rear rim is not black!!! I spent an hour with simple green and a tooth brush. I also removed muffler and sanded, primed and painted. Here is everything installed:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/8cfeba8be4a2fba5676083ef05c8f7e3.jpg)
Other side:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/5f61627696d7fb0aa4989843fdb67240.jpg)
I replaced both leaky fuel lines and a broken vaccum line. I'm working the next two days. Thursday I will try to make more progress.
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Another day, more work done! Today, I decided to strip all the chipped black paint off the motor. Those "black-out" folks may not like it but I like natural metal. I also, flushed the radiator and put the air cleaner back together. I got a message from the painter that the body panels are done. I went and picked them up and man they look good!!!!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160114/d4233d3f3686d9d4f0804a11e7fd305b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160114/d5f66ec2953a7e9d7ea88cb1108abfc0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160114/ec78c9bc0189e4aa8a6f9ab72309dca9.jpg)
Tomorrow I want to get it down off the lift, change out the bars and get the fairing ready to go back together.
Have a great night!!!!
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Not sure anybody is following this anymore but what are these?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160115/0aa7096aefec1bc943537d6613ce02da.jpg)
And these?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160115/8f34bec3fec5403d481bafeb29aa7458.jpg)
I an trying to figure out how this fairing goes back together and the clymer manual is worthless.
Thanks
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Your thread has 400 views, todd, so somebody's looking besides me.
Maybe the diagrams at this site will turn on a few lights for you.
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51752&rnd=07012015
Section 46 Trim, Fairing, Cases—diagram 0000 for the first two parts and 1272 for the second two. It's a puzzle, all right.
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Haha... Probably! Thanks for the link!
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I'm following
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OK OK ... Its being followed !
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WE ARE WATCHING YOU WE ARE WATCHING YOUR EVERY MOVE SO DON'T STUFF IT UP OR THE BRICK GREMLINS WILL GET YOU.
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I am going to guess that the four black pieces are an optional heat control for the fairing. They fill the space behind the fairing and keep the hot air flow inside the frame and from getting to your legs. Can't tell you more than that. Saw a picture of a brick with them a few weeks ago, but can't recall where. I understand that they were a BMW dealer installed option.
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The first picture shows the inserts that fit between the headstock and the frame members at the front of the bike. They close off the space between the tank and rad, and have holes for the control cabling.
The second picture is of the blanking panels on the fairing that go just above the pockets. They can be drilled out to fit the optional instruments:
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/z/rrgAAOSweW5U8HVy/$_1.JPG)
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Thanks gripon and rbm. As I was putting it together I figured out most of it.
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Got more done!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160116/8199c3b9020fc49529d62d6631c70102.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160116/b658bf7b42b3685d3091e02334b6ef8e.jpg)
I pulled it outside and cranked on it for awhile and it did not start. I pulled the plugs and they are wet. I read a little bit and was frustrated. I took the negative battery cable off for 10 mins to "reset the ecm". It didn't help. I started reading some threads. Guess I need to start troubleshooting.
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Taking the battery cable off will do nothing on a K100 to reset the ECU; there's no computer. The 85 K100 uses Jetronic which is an analogue EFI system. Since you have wet plugs, it indicates fueling is OK. It's turning over I guess so the starter circuitry is OK. Might not be getting spark. Your next area to investigate would be the cold start circuit.
The control unit (ECU) takes sensor information:
- AFM flow and temperature
- Engine RPM (from hall sensors)
- Warm up information (from coolant temperature sensor)
- Throttle mode (idle and WOT switches)
So, you should double check those systems. ICU, hall sensors, engine temperature sensor, TPS, AFM, coils and associated wiring. Coils won't work if the ICU doesn't give them the signal and the ICU won't give the signal if it can't detect the engine turning and the hall sensors tell the ICU that the engine is turning. Fuel enrichment won't work if the temperature probe doesn't send the right resistance.
Use Bert's troubleshooting page (http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/K100/download/bike-wont-start1.htm) to lead you to the failing component.
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Thanks for the response. I got a shock off the plug while cranking over the motor. I'll check the link provided.
Thanks again!
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If you're getting spark, then the hall sensors, ICU, coils and associated wiring are OK. Have you confirmed that the correct coil wire is attached to the correct plug?
If that looks good, might be the temperature sensor or associated wiring.
Have you checked fuses? Sometimes fuses look OK visual but are open internally. Use a multimeter on resistance setting to measure conductivity.
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I visualized fused. Tomorrow I check resistance. Great points! Thanks for keeping it simple!
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Those original German fuses are crap. Check them
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Just because you think nobody is watching doesn't mean that nobody is :dunno2: :bmwsmile, that is a very nice (fast) red...
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It'll be a lot faster when I get it running! Thanks for the compliment. The Speedometer is coming back from Overseas Speedometers tomorrow. I am gonna drive out to his shop and
pick it up.
Todd
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Follow Bert's guide and be patient. Walk away for a little bit :bmwsmile. Could be an injector problem. Are you smelling gas out the pipe when you crank? My bike had set for years (15+). I replaced the injectors(as well as the rest of the fuel system). The injectors can also be cleaned. When I finally got mine started it seemed like I had to crank forever and then boom and a cloud of smoke. I didn't let it die for 20 minutes, just a good fast idle. After that it has run perfectly.
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It could also be temperature sensor connection or temperature switch. It can cause flooding.
Regards Martin.
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Todd, I think you mentioned at the beginning of this thread that the engine did run, but not properly due to the timing being 30 degrees off. Have you readjusted the Hall sensor plate? Did you remove all the plugs and change them? The fact that you said you got a shock off of a plug tells me you have spark voltage at the plugs. Do you have a timing light that you can hook up?
I would suggest that you go back to the Hall sensors and double check the timing there. Do a search on ignition timing here for some information on getting it set properly.
I would also strongly suggest that you double check the plug wires to be sure they are on the right plugs. There was another brick here recently that had two of the wires on the wrong plug.
Do you have the terminal nuts on your plugs or just the threaded stud? The BMW plug wires need a terminal nut on the plug to make a good connection.
When you were working on the bike did you disconnect or remove any electrical parts like coils, sensors, etc.?
You mention the speedometer in your last post. Do you have the instrument cluster connected? I'm not sure, but that may have some effect on the running of the engine.
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Thanks Gripon for response! As far as timing, that wasn't me, I have not touched the timing. It was running but I had to keep on the throttle because it didn't want to idle. Also, I had to keep the choke closed about halfway. I did find a leaky fuel line (replaced) and the vaccum line at the end of fuel rail was cracked (replaced). I did not disconnect anything electrical while working on it. Yes, the instrument cluster is off (hopefully back and on today). I will go get new plugs today. (it has bosch in it now). The plugs have the resistor on them. Thanks for the awesome suggestions!!!!!!
Todd, I think you mentioned at the beginning of this thread that the engine did run, but not properly due to the timing being 30 degrees off. Have you readjusted the Hall sensor plate? Did you remove all the plugs and change them? The fact that you said you got a shock off of a plug tells me you have spark voltage at the plugs.
I would suggest that you go back to the Hall sensors and double check the timing there. Do a search on ignition timing here for some information on getting it set properly.
I would also strongly suggest that you double check the plug wires to be sure they are on the right plugs. There was another brick here recently that had two of the wires on the wrong plug.
Do you have the terminal nuts on your plugs or just the threaded stud? The BMW plug wires need a terminal nut on the plug to make a good connection.
When you were working on the bike did you disconnect or remove any electrical parts like coils, sensors, etc.?
You mention the speedometer in your last post. Do you have the instrument cluster connected? I'm not sure, but that may have some effect on the running of the engine.
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When I checked my spark plugs, I pulled the plug, inserted in the boot, held with insulated needle nose against frame and had the wife hit the starter button. Isn't weird that I got a shock? Nothing was wet?
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Nothing was wet?
Does that questionmean that after turning over the engine then removing the plug, the plug electrode was dry?
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Nothing was wet?
Does that questionmean that after turning over the engine then removing the plug, the plug electrode was dry?
No that means I wasnt standing in water and the pliers weren't wet.
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Todd, with 13,000 volts coming from the coils, you don't need to be wet to get bit. The fact that you got shocked means you have spark. That the engine doesn't start tells me that it is not at the right time, or that the mixture isn't right.
Were you touching the plug to a bare metal spot on the frame? Do you have a jumper cable that you can use to connect the plug to the frame with a solid connection. Then crank the engine in the dark to see what is going on.
Check those plug wires to make sure they are on the right plugs.
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So the plugs were wet, todd?
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yes they were wet.
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You've checked the plug leads for the correct coil connections according to the manual, like Gryph has suggested?
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You've checked the plug leads for the correct coil connections according to the manual, like Gryph has suggested?
As far as the plugs having resistor screwed on and boots being slid over tight? Yes
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Are you absolutely sure you have the wires connected to the correct cylinders? There is at least one wire that folds back. A couple weeks ago there was a thread here where the engine wouldn't start because the owner had the plug wires mixed up.
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Of course anything is possible and I will check but they were on correctly before my work, when it ran. I have only taken off cyl 1&2. I am gonna change out plugs, check wires and check fuses too start. And I am heading out in a few to get my instrument cluster. BTW I found a beautiful 86 k75 on CL for $1500. One owner (20k) miles. Son has it and wants it gone...
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BTW I found a beautiful 86 k75 on CL for $1500. One owner (20k) miles. Son has it and wants it gone...
Why don't these deals show up near me? $1500 for an S model with 20k. A brick that still needs breaking in.
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BTW I found a beautiful 86 k75 on CL for $1500. One owner (20k) miles. Son has it and wants it gone...
Why don't these deals show up near me? $1500 for an S model with 20k. A brick that still needs breaking in.
I sent an email and offered less...
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I sent an email and offered less...
If I get an email like that when I'm selling something, I think "all hat and no cattle" then delete it.
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I sent an email and offered less...
If I get an email like that when I'm selling something, I think "all hat and no cattle" then delete it.
Me too but u never know... Plus, half the ads on CL are bullsh*t anyway. Too many times I have emailed or texted to get the usual "send me money via payapal..." or some other crap...
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Look, todd, what's really important here is that you get back out to the shop, work on that K, and keep updating this thread so that some of us have some entertainment while it's snowing. :popcorm
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BTW I found a beautiful 86 k75 on CL for $1500. One owner (20k) miles. Son has it and wants it gone...
Why don't these deals show up near me? $1500 for an S model with 20k. A brick that still needs breaking in.
I sent an email and offered less...
You got it for less than $1500?!!! Damn!!!
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Well sorry for the disappointment today. I went to get my speedo from Rick. And it took a good portion of my day. Plus I spent time with the family. Tomorrow I fly out for a few days for robot training. So no brick work... I'll be back Friday. I want yo try and get some stuff done. I am gonna post in vendors about my awesome experience with Rick. Thanks!!!!
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OK... I did do one thing!
Speedo installed with red lights!!!(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160117/4e3d76a173cc075923f28a71d8b229b5.jpg)
And sometimes previous owners do dumb things...
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160117/197c61f7f4eac46761a4230f1a777bae.jpg)
More work next Friday!
Todd
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Tomorrow I fly out for a few days for robot training.
Well, I, for one, could never have figured out you were a robot from the way you write. Your software is excellent!
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Laitch you have actually seen his software I didn't think you were like that??
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U guys are funny!
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Laitch you have actually seen his software I didn't think you were like that??
It's easier with robots than women. You simply unplug robots.
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Headed home tonight. Hope to get the bike running! Here is a pic of the robot I was learning about:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160122/263fe2f23322b2e0d2322c23130d386d.jpg)
Actually, that is for welding and I was learning about painting.
I'll post bike update tomorrow!
Thanks!
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Laitch looks like you are out of luck it looks like a male. :musicboohoo:
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The way the act up.... Female
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I'm bi-electrical and proud!
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Laitch so your saying your AC DC??
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ZZ Top, I'd say, with a twist.
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What are these 2 suppose to be connected to?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160124/99f4137aea4be3f8bc693a0bbaf7623d.jpg)
Also, this should be connected...duh!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160124/f28650ef0f174c5a5146ebac71e56d54.jpg)
Thought it was a misc connector
..
Thanks
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Cold and hot water inlet pipes? Hair dryer connection?
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Cold and hot water inlet pipes? Hair dryer connection?
Which one?
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:clap:
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Todd the pipes on your tank are a vent and an overflow, on my bike they sit over a small plastic catch reservoir. If you note the colour of the wires you can work it out on a wiring diagram.
Regards Martin.
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Todd the pipes on your tank are a vent and an overflow, on my bike they sit over a small plastic catch reservoir. If you note the colour of the wires you can work it out on a wiring diagram.
Regards Martin.
Thanks Martin!
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Shoot! You went and ruint it, Martin. 😪 I was going to add plans to connect up those fittings to a bidet in my next post here.
If you don't have one of those prissy little cups like Martin has, todd, you can put hoses on those fittings and route them right down the frame until they dump behind and below the right footpeg plate.
You got your fuel pump connected, todd?
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Shoot! You went and ruint it, Martin. 😪 I was going to add plans to connect up those fittings to a bidet in my next post here.
If you don't have one of those prissy little cups like Martin has, todd, you can put hoses on those fittings and route them right down the frame until they dump behind and below the right footpeg plate.
You got your fuel pump connected, todd?
Thanks Martin. Yes I got it connected. Tomorrow I'm gonna install a new fuel filter and gas and hooefullly start it up.
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If you partially follow Laitchs suggestion you can route the hoses to your back tyre. You get really wild burnouts. Sorry Laitch I didn't Know you were into bidets.
Apologies Martin.
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Save the rainforests!
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Got it back together today. It wouldn't start so I pulled the plugs, cleaned them, and made sure wires were on correctly. It fired up and I let it idle for a bit. I was able to get it running good enough to take it to the gas station. It ran pretty rough. I filled it up with 3 gallons of gas. I took it over to the next town (it ran better) and got some fuel cleaner. They didn't have techtron so I bought Seafoam. I put 4 oz in it and ran it toward home with a 10 mile detour. I got back and wanted to fix a few things. The throttle is not very snappy and seems to bind. I took it apart (Dear lord this is over engineered!) and cleaned up all the components. Pulling on the cable it is harder effort than I'd expect but it it does snap back. Lubed all back together and it is better but it seems to come back down to idle slow, it will stumble at about 800 rpms, then catch up and idle about 1100. I'm wondering if it is still just problems with dirty injectors? Almost seems like it may have a vacuum leak. Also, when going up a hill or from a stop it seems to spark knock (premature ignition sound) I'm happy to have it running and am getting closer!!!!!
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Todd BMW tells you not to lubricate the cables but I do. About thirty years ago I was given a sample can of Tri Flow PTFE based lubricant, it is brilliant on cables. You can now get it from bicycle shops.
Regards Martin.
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Your '85 throttle cable is the earlier design, with the adjuster in the middle of the cable instead of at the throttle perch. Can you confirm? Stickiness in the throttle can be isolated to either the throttle cable or the throttle tube. Remove the cable and test the throttle operation. If the throttle tube rotates freely and with little slop, then turn your attention to the cable. Make sure it is routed as directly as possible and that there are no severe bends in it. You might want to replace the original cable with a newer design, with the adjuster at the perch.
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I read tonight about the breather hose and went out and looked at mine... Bad shape. That might be part of my running issue...
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Your '85 throttle cable is the earlier design, with the adjuster in the middle of the cable instead of at the throttle perch. Can you confirm? Stickiness in the throttle can be isolated to either the throttle cable or the throttle tube. Remove the cable and test the throttle operation. If the throttle tube rotates freely and with little slop, then turn your attention to the cable. Make sure it is routed as directly as possible and that there are no severe bends in it. You might want to replace the original cable with a newer design, with the adjuster at the perch.
There is only an adjuster at the top by throttle assembly.
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Ok, so the cable has been replaced with a newer one, good. Try and isolate the problem to the failing part as I outlined above. The throttle should be fairly responsive, so sluggishness is a problem.
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Get some self bonding tape and wrap a couple layers around the cracks in the breather hose. That will tell you if that is the problem, and get you running while you get a new hose. You will have to take the hose off to wrap it.
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Gryph, Do you think painting the hose with Liquid Electrical Tape (https://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/star-brite-liquid-electrical-tape.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiArJe1BRDe_uz1uu-QjvYBEiQACUj6ouTsLsYipHU8sKoH3nuMj_iXcl7TJn5UTZLQKegfRJMaAibB8P8HAQ#super_attribute%5B76%5D=18&super_attribute%5B493%5D=7895) would work?
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Gryph, Do you think painting the hose with Liquid Electrical Tape (https://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/star-brite-liquid-electrical-tape.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiArJe1BRDe_uz1uu-QjvYBEiQACUj6ouTsLsYipHU8sKoH3nuMj_iXcl7TJn5UTZLQKegfRJMaAibB8P8HAQ#super_attribute%5B76%5D=18&super_attribute%5B493%5D=7895) would work?
I got some hose (10 foot) of it.
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Get some self bonding tape and wrap a couple layers around the cracks in the breather hose. That will tell you if that is the problem, and get you running while you get a new hose. You will have to take the hose off to wrap it.
A couple of things.
If you're talking about the vent hose, sealing the outside won't prove much if the inside diameter has been compromised by material degrading and deposits. As far as a length of hose, it's too difficult to make those bends without restricting air flow. The OEM part with molded bends will work right and doesn't cost much.
Be sure the flange on the throttle grip isn't pushed slightly past the inboard edge of the throttle perch and rubbing on the gear housing. Doesn't take much to slow things down. The throttle should snap back when released.
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.Get some self bonding tape and wrap a couple layers around the cracks in the breather hose. That will tell you if that is the problem, and get you running while you get a new hose. You will have to take the hose off to wrap it.
A couple of things.
If you're talking about the vent hose, sealing the outside won't prove much if the inside diameter has been compromised by material degrading and deposits. As far as a length of hose, it's too difficult to make those bends without restricting air flow. The OEM part with molded bends will work right and doesn't cost much.
Be sure the flange on the throttle grip isn't pushed slightly past the inboard edge of the throttle perch and rubbing on the gear housing. Doesn't take much to slow things down. The throttle should snap back when released.
I replaced (well repaired) cracked crankcase breather. It wasn't bad at all, just a small crack. I wrapped it with black tape and am ordering a new one. It does idle a little better. It is still wanting to stall on deceleration. As a matter of fact, it does stall out. I rodw it 45 miles today. Also, it sure does vibrate in the seat. Bars aren't bad. I also noticed it is loud. I don't know why I just noticed but it sounds like it doesn't have much baffle. It backfires on decel through the exhaust. Seems as though no baffle would make it run rough too. (Sounds good). I am thinking about finding a couple vacuum gauges and check on carb sync. I'll post more after dinner.
Thanks!
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I thought that putting the red lights in the instrument cluster would have fixed all this; you just never know.
You've raised this thing from the dead, todd, so I'd say it's going pretty good. The idle quirk has been with you from the beginning. You haven't removed the injectors or cleaned the throttle bodies yet, have you? My speed reading isn't at it's peak after 6am. You probably should send out those injectors for cleaning before you balance the throttle bodies seeing as how the whole bike bike was neglected for who-knows-how-long and running fuel that looked like maple syrup probably before that.
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I thought that putting the red lights in the instrument cluster would have fixed all this; you just never know.
You've raised this thing from the dead, todd, so I'd say it's going pretty good. The idle quirk has been with you from the beginning. You haven't removed the injectors or cleaned the throttle bodies yet, have you? My speed reading isn't at it's peak after 6am. You probably should send out those injectors for cleaning before you balance the throttle bodies seeing as how the whole bike bike was neglected for who-knows-how-long and running fuel that looked like maple syrup probably before that.
Good point... Can I clean them?
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Send them out.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160109_163925.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160109_163925.jpg.html)
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160121_191009_edit_1453423103950.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160121_191009_edit_1453423103950.jpg.html)
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Send them out. (http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160121_191009_edit_1453423103950.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160121_191009_edit_1453423103950.jpg.html)
How much? How long does it take?
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I thought about replace intake seals... man they are expensive...
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Have you been traveling this path, todd?
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=624.0
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How much? How long does it take?
they turn them around in less than a day, so time depends on how fast you want to ship. price is about 20-25 bucks each. worth it. they don't just clean, they replace all the plastic bits, put on new orings and test. i send all my race car injectors there. been using RC for many years.
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Anyone use these osidetiger.com replacement injectors? They claim to have a better pattern and give better power.
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Todd apparently the 4 hole injectors are supposed to be a lot better, off 318I BMW car or possibly a 4.9 cu in Ford. I have been chasing information. but can't as yet get any solid comparison with proper data. I believe they are available from osidetiger.com.
Regards Martin .
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Todd apparently the 4 hole injectors are supposed to be a lot better, off 318I BMW car or possibly a 4.9 cu in Ford. I have been chasing information. but can't as yet get any solid comparison with proper data. I believe they are available from osidetiger.com.
Regards Martin .
Yes... They are $100 for all 4. Better deal for new.
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In the engine>fuel system there is a thread of one who has done them and likes them ....
I'd link it to you if I could figure out how.
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Todd if you go with osidetiger, could you see if you can find what the exact models these are off, they do not ship to OZ. Have tried a couple of local injector places, and they don't want know about it, not interested at all.
Regards Martin.
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I have used them. They appear to work well (2500 mi so far). I am not an expert, but I think that the people at osetiger are qualified :bmwsmile...at least I hope so.
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The company won't but maybe an American here will do it on your behalf..... That is one way around "they do not ship to OZ".
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Bill that is probably possible, but if I knew exactly what model and year, or even better a part number. It would then be easy to either go to Aussie injector specialist or go to the wreckers. It would also benefit the other Aussie & Kiwi members. However thankyou for the suggestion.
Regards Martin. :clap:
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Well they are showing the flow rate so maybe one just has to get a bunch of them and measure. As cars are built to differing markets an american 318i maybe lower flow rate than an Aussie one.... Worst case is it won't work.
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In the engine>fuel system there is a thread of one who has done them and likes them ....
I'd link it to you if I could figure out how.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,6373.msg42867.html#msg42867
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For some reason the #3 vacuum cover was off. I replaced it plus filled the tank with Valero 92 octane and techron. Ran it home at 70 mph and it does seem smoother. It still is slightly hard to start and it surges idle but IT DONT DIE!!!!! I got inspection and insurance today, plates tomorrow and I'm gonna try and take it to work on Saturday. I have another trip out of town and am gonna send injectors for cleaning.
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:clap:
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Depends on your definition of "better" and how do you measure better? Better for some is higher peak power, others is greater milage for a gallon of gasoline, for others it might be something else, who knows. Like Martin, I've read threads with anecdotal evidence of no difference in power or performance between single-orifice and 4-orifice injectors. There is evidence they use more gas.
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Given that the control of the injectors does not change any change in performance would be nominal to the flow rate. The jetronic controller is pretty basic compared to modern units.
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I am concerned that the smaller orifices in the four hole injectors will be easier to block with smaller bits of dirt or fuel deposits. When I am riding somewhere far from home I want every part of my machine to be as reliable as possible. I see these four hole injectors as sacrificing a certain amount of reliability for some dubious claims of performance or fuel efficiency.
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Is it unusual that the bike starts best with choke just barely closed? I only need to move it just enough to get light on.
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That's not something I'd worry about, todd. I usually run my bike a ¼ mile at ½ choke before I close it. I don't worry about that either.
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It would be really good to see back to back tests on a Dyno. And I am still trying to work out if there is any benefit of a 4 hole v 1 hole given that they are not directly injecting into the combustion chamber. All the information that I can find is anecdotal and based on things like it feels better, without any verifying proof. I will continue to look into it but not convinced enough to blow the money on a feeling.
Regards Martin.
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. . . I am still trying to work out if there is any benefit of a 4 hole v 1 hole . . . I will continue to look into it but not convinced enough to blow the money on a feeling.
Regards Martin.
One hole's always been good enough for me. I'd like get back some of my money that was blown on feelings though.
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I probably should have added "at a time" for clarity.
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Just remember this is not a choke like a carb. It is a fuel enrichment sent via the ecu is it not? Or do I have the method confused with my other fuel injected motorcycles
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Its just weird that I barely need it ever... Even when cold.
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Its just weird that I barely need it ever... Even when cold.
You aren't done yet, todd. Wait until you've installed clean injectors into a cleaned system to assess what's weird.
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Good point!
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Just remember this is not a choke like a carb. It is a fuel enrichment sent via the ecu is it not? Or do I have the method confused with my other fuel injected motorcycles
This choke just increases the throttle. You could get the same effect by tightening the throttle screw—if you had one—on the handlebar then twisting the throttle grip slightly before starting. It's called a choke because, surprisingly, nobody wanted to coin a new word to confuse buyers crossing over to K-bikes. If it's not shut off, the revs will stay up to provide a surprising and stimulating effect when cornering.
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Just remember this is not a choke like a carb. It is a fuel enrichment sent via the ecu is it not? Or do I have the method confused with my other fuel injected motorcycles
If it's not shut off, the revs will stay up to provide a surprising and stimulating effect when cornering.
LOL!!!!
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For those helping me, I have these fairing mirrors if anyone wants them. Give me a fair offer and they are yours. Include mounting hardware, mirror glass is good and both blinker lens. Paint is chipped and worn out. Unsure if blinker lights work, never hooked them up.
Thanks!!!!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160129/90d60afbc357c1f4548ae42dd4455a65.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160129/93130069a03b9a8561b186f0d1b4ff8c.jpg)
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Well the rear brakes stopped working on the way to get a plate. They do not apply pressure. There is no fluid leaking out and the reservoir is full. Guess I need to pull the master cylinder.
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Todd talk about bad luck, that would have really cheezed you off. Hope it's an easy fix, pull the boot back and have a look. You could try a quick temporary fix, take the cylinder apart give it a clean and re bleed, could be a blocked port?
Regards Martin :musicboohoo:
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Pumped back up and now is fine... Go figure
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Did you bleed the air out completely?
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Yeah...
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This calls for a dose of Old Tree Hugger, todd.
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Bike is legal! Tomorrow I am gonna ride it to work 28 miles! Leaving at 4:30. Wish me luck! Pica from today. Cleaned, everything installed, mirrors on!
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160130/ae1478c9ee1b7f2135e5da19af23afe4.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160130/ee3b1a1998c577e2cde731535fcc5271.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160130/e610de22924fedd60d0457083c504225.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160130/a00b1568ca2c9c95cc8c639d9d15c752.jpg)
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Todd the rear M/Cyl is in a bad spot, very susceptible to water and dirt ingress. I fill under the rubber boot with silicone grease ( I now use the really heavy stuff used on the K75's steering damper ), it helps keep the crap out.
Regards Martin.
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Thanks for the advice!
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Sweet looking ride, Todd. Good luck on tomorrow's ride!
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Made it!!!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160130/603fb8b02b63681abe844f7aef5b5583.jpg)
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:2thumbup:
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Bravo! Those maiden voyages are always a little nerve racking. ...
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Today I rebuilt the master cylinder on the front.I pulled apart the airbox and found the hose for the outlet to air collector had a big hole. I glued it shut (temporary) and it runs a lot better! Idles great. Gonna ride it in tomorrow to work!
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I have made it through my first tank of gas!
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I have made it through my first tank of gas!
Did your bike make it along with you, todd?
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Yes it did
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:2thumbup:
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Bravo! Those maiden voyages are always a little nerve racking. ...
Mine is atleast a year out from it's test fire-up, and I'm alread anxious. Let's see here... What, with wiring, fuel, air, sensitive electrics?
I'm sure every last detail will be dead-on perfect.
:hehehe
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Bravo! Those maiden voyages are always a little nerve racking. ...
Mine is atleast a year out from it's test fire-up, and I'm alread anxious. Let's see here... What, with wiring, fuel, air, sensitive electrics?
I'm sure every last detail will be dead-on perfect.
:hehehe
Will be sweet when you finally get there.
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I've been chasing afront Master cylinder leak. I have taken apart and cleaned the bore, the plunger looks great. I replaced the o ring where the reservoir meets cylinder and replaced cover seal. I still have a drip that accumulates on the bolt holding the lever on. I have looked and dont see any other way it could be leaking. Rebuild?
Thanks
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Rebuild?
Probably, todd. 😢 Beemer Boneyard has the components (http://www.beemerboneyard.com/macyreki.html) but don't rule out divine intervention yet. Give it a day.
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I am missing the big washer on the end...
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I am missing the big washer on the end...
If it isn't hiding in the bore then you've got a weird market for stolen goods out there. Well, it seems like you're on the right track for repair.
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Found the washer, put it back in place and no more leak! Imagine that!
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The wonders never cease here!