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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: TimTyler on December 21, 2015, 05:36:37 PM
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My front rotors are below spec.
I'm considering replacing them with a used very-low-mileage OEM pair I found online. Apparently nearly new. Identified as "spares". I've asked for measurements and they do indeed spec out very well.
This set will cost half of the cost of a brand new set of EBC rotors.
Advice?
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Make sure you clean 'em really good. Different brake material compounds often don't play nice together. It also helps if they've been marked L/R since running them the other way can cause problems too. Minor warping can be fixed with careful bending.
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I'd say go for it.
I've done both used and new.
I did the used ones 1st, still using the semi-metalic pads...... then once they were below spec I went with new rotors and standard organic pads.
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Thanks, guys.
I've ordered the used ones.
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Received the used rotors. They're as described. :clap:
Cleaned them up and installed them. Ride soon.
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love the workshop Tim!
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You never can tell when an avocado will be just the tool you need.
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Too cold to work outside :)
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Still Life with Y-Spoke Rim
by Tim Tyler
Limited edition Artist's Proofs available.
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Why so many tangerines though - mildly acidic alloy cleaner perhaps? I like your art Tim - but can we lose the floppy flower please ...
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Tim after replacing rotors I attach a dial gauge indicator to where the calipers mount, and check for run out. If any run out is detected it can be corrected with a 10" piece of broom handle and a nylon hammer. Hit on the inner portion of the rotor, not the disc to correct any run out. It is also important to use a tension wrench when installing and tension up in increments. I have used new EBC discs that had run out from new. As mentioned previously really give them a good clean.
Regards Martin.
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Thanks, Martin.
I sanded the mounting surfaces on the rotors and wheel very well before attaching them. Used a torque wrench and incrementally tightened the rotors. Took the bike for a cautious 60 miles ride today since it has new rotors, a new swing arm and was recently reassembled from a clutch spline lube. Did not notice any pulsing or braking abnormalities. The roads around here are slick with moss though so I was not too aggressive. Got her up to 85 on the freeway and it felt smooth (and cold).
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Regarding the photo. You're single aren't you?
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Nope. Just cleaned up before the little lady got home :)
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Since installing these rotors I'm experiencing a throbbing action during front braking. And it's not a "good throbbing action" if you know what I mean. :nono
I'm probably going to reinstall my old rotors which still have a little life left in them. If the throbbing goes away, new EBC rotors are in my future.
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Try truing them up with a dial gauge and a piece of broom handle. It is doable but don't go at it too hard, go slowly. It takes a bit of patience the first time but you will soon get the hang of it. Remember only tap on the carrier not the disc.
Regards Martin.
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Thanks for the suggestion, Martin, but I don't think I want to start hammering or bending the rotors. Don't want to risk weakening them.
I'll inspect closer today and see if it's just one rotor that's causing the brake shuddering. Maybe I can get away with replacing just one.
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Tim -
I put EBC rotors on mine along with the sintered pads that they recommended. Between that and stainless lines, and rebuilding the calipers, braking is much improved.
I have two spare pair: 1) non-ABS from a 1990 and 2) ABS from a 1992. I can provide measurements and photos if you're interested.
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Turns out the right rotor was the problem. Also turns out my old rotors were not out of spec by a lot. Not sure why I read that value wrong last winter.
Swapped in one of the old rotors and the problem has been solved. :riding:
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Tim you are only adjusting in increments of a thousand of an inch by lightly tapping. No need to belt them with a hammer, I have successfully saved heaps of discs using this method without any damage.
Regards Martin.
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. . . I have successfully saved heaps of discs using this method without any damage.
Regards Martin.
You seem overly committed to promoting this method, Martin. Are you concealing ties with a broomstick manufacturing company?
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Left over offcuts from making facsimile Beemerangs for US tourists made out of wood and sprayed silver. This way it doesn't contravene the US OZ arms agreement.
Regards Martin.
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I have successfully saved heaps of discs using this method without any damage.
I'll happily give you my soon to be discarded rotor if you want it.
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Thanks Tim
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Tim, any chance you have a glazing build up that could be causing the pulsing?
I have read of that occurring occasionally, and causing a pulsing feeling.
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Could be, Scott. Part of the rotor surface felt raised to the touch, but it's so subtle.
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greetings...
the underpowered k75 is notorious for glazed rotors... the key is proper maintenance... it is recommend that you ride in a backwards motion give it full brakes while at speed... this maneuver will deglaze the rotors... and also realigns the relationship between the brake pads and the brake calipers...
j o
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...it is recommend that you ride in a backwards motion give it full brakes while at speed......
I find that when I do this I end up back where I started.