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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Classic Motobricks => Topic started by: Scud on November 14, 2015, 09:15:27 PM
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I did a fly and ride recently and picked up a 1992 K75s. http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7539.0.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7539.0.html) While looking for parts on Craigslist a couple days ago, I chanced upon a complete 1990 K75s, same color, for an attractive price. So... now I have two bikes, which I am going to merge into one.
The 1992:
40,000 miles, runs very well, but is a bit rough cosmetically, including a lot of corrosion. I rode it over 700 miles and have noted a few minor flaws that can be fixed. And it's got some deferred maintenance, oil leak, dead shock, crappy 10-year old tires, etc.
The 1990:
180,000 miles, but nobody told the engine it's supposed to wear out, it runs about the same as the one with 40,000 on it. However the 2nd gear is skipping in a way that makes we wonder if the whole tranny is going to lock up. The bike was a commuter, well cared for, and garaged - so it's not corroded. But I think she's about at the end of her useful life; the previous owner was concerned about a few other mechanical things too and decided it was not worth trying to keep it going.
The plan:
Dissemble the 1990. Address the deferred maintenance, including spline lube and oil leak, on the 92, reassemble with the "best of both bikes" parts.
So far the intended transfers from 90 to 92 are:
Tires (new Conti-Gos) - and maybe the wheels too. I think I like the look of the older wheels better, and the paint on the 92's wheels is quite bad.
Fork tubes - the 92s are badly pitted
Gas Tank - the 92 has a difficult dent on RH side and had been sitting a while, the 90 has only a small dent and never got a rest - so I think the internals are probably better.
Corbin Seat - but needs recovering
Complete exhaust - 92's is corroded
Square mirrors - again, I think the older style is more attractive than the lollipops on the 92.
All manner of small covers, brackets, fasteners - basically, whatever is nicer will get moved over.
I suspect I will have a bunch of questions along the way, and I will report in whenever I make some significant progress. Please feel free to make suggestions along the way.
First question - is there any reason I should not use the older style wheels on the 1992 bike?
Some pics:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/67ca2710ff7d7b56/IMG_4142.jpg)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/6cff2b84d813da6f/IMG_4141.jpg)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/7d28ddbc2a604093/IMG_4140.jpg)
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The older wheels are actually stronger than the 3 spoke ones. Looks like you'll have a gold mine of parts to ebay away.
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The reason for using the three spokes as I understand it is radial tires! IF you can swap to use radials I would dooooo ITTTTTTTTT. read numerous tire threads here, but what I get from them is the snowflake wheels do not take radials, not designed too, and the three spoke wheels were. Just what I gather from reading, no actual experience, but I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong. Swapping parts is fun, been there done that. Have fun
Bob
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Thanks for the wheel and tire info. Today I swapped the wheels - the older wheels cleaned up really well. I've only heard "snowflake" used to describe an older wheel style (which I had on a 1981 R100CS). The older K-bike wheels, I'll call them "Y-spoke", cleaned up really well and it was a breeze to swap rotors (and keep the ABS ring).
I just had a set of Shinko 230s delivered, which are an aramid-belted radial. I have never used Shinko before and thought I 'd try a set. So... now I wonder if I should mount those on the Y-spokes or not. The current Conti Go rear has a lot of life left, but I noticed that the front is badly cupped and I'd like to replace that soon.
I don't mean to turn this into a "tire thread"..... but I searched a bit and found this recent thread, in which some people indicate they have run radials on the Y-spokes: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,6585.0.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,6585.0.html)
If somebody is aware of a thread with an explanation of why radials should not be mounted to Y-spokes, please post a link.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/60188219c8008399/IMG_4147.jpg)
I also installed a new Progressive shock. I didn't bother measuring suspension sag yet - just set the shock in the middle of the pre-load. Now the front feels a bit soft... maybe I'll get some "matching" Progressive springs (like they kindly suggested in the paperwork included with the shock...)
Parts swapping is fun - I already found a few little missing bits and moved them over.
Today's BIG news:
The Previous Owner of the '92 was told (via an inspection report) that the bike had an oil leak between engine and tranny - and it would take 15 hours labor plus some parts to fix. This was his reason for selling at a fairly low price. I pulled the belly pan to start looking for myself. The oil drain plug was finger-loose and obviously leaking. I snugged it up, rode it around the block a few times and no longer see evidence of an oil leak. I'll give it a week of commuting to be sure, but holy crap - what kind of inspection doesn't even check to see if the drain plug is the cause of the leak????? Lucky me.
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Unbelievable on the drain plug!
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Duck confirmed in 2013 (http://www.k100-forum.com/t7150-radial-tires-on-y-spoke-wheels) that radials could be gotten for the snowflake rims, Bridgestone BT-023 for the front and Avon AV46 for the rear. IMO, I believe using the 3-spoke rims is a better idea because the three-spoke rims will have a greater selection of radial tires available and probably more future-proof than the snowflake rims. I'm running Bridgestone T30 Battlax 110/80ZR-18 on the front and Bridgestone T30 Battlax 150/70ZR-17 on the rear of my K75, equipped with 2.50X18 front and 3.00x17 rear 3-spoke rims.
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Thanks for the confirmation. I'm a little confused, though. Let me try to sort this out. First, this bike will be a tour/commute bike for me, not a sports bike - but it'll certainly see some spirited riding. I'm looking for a blend of durability and performance, not for the most sporting tires.
The rear:
Both wheels, 1990 Y-spoke and 1992 3-spoke, currently have a 130/90-17 (Conti and Metzeler), which is the factory-specified tire size. I bought a Shinko 230 in the same size. I swapped the wheels between bikes with no difficulty. Since the same tire is specified for both wheels, I don't see how one wheel would allow more future options than the other.
The front:
The factory spec is 100/90-18 for both years. The 1990 Y-spoke has a Conti 110/80-18 on it now, which is an "equivalent" size tire. The 1992 3-spoke has a Metzeler 100/90-18. I bought a Shinko 230 in a 100/90-18 (factory spec size). Again, the same tire is specified for both Y-spoke and 3-spoke wheels, so I don't understand the difference in future options.
So... not trying to argue here, just trying to understand.
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Good reference page on tire sizes (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=2927.0)
Another good reference on rims and brakes (http://www.largiader.com/parts/wheels.html)
Forget what I wrote above; got confused on the future options. I was thinking back to when I was considering fitting K1200 wheels to my K75 (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3UPbNZRyr1reDNoZFZPcGlHa00). These rims are wider and therefore more selection in tires are available.
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Bent rims are more common on 3 spoke wheels, rim is only supported every 120 degrees. I like the look of the 3 spoke and they're easier to clean but I've hit big things at speed and never dented my Y spokes.
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OK - so I think the rim question might be settled for me. Y-spokes are stronger (objective) better looking (subjective) and there's no difference in availability/application of tires. And since the 3-spokes break more often they'll probably be easier to sell later. :2thumbup:
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And since the 3-spokes break more often they'll probably be easier to sell later.
Chaos's assertion is related to the bending of rims, Scud, not the breaking of them. Most wheel rims are susceptible to bending if they bang over potholes, curbs or debris with under-inflated tires.
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http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7434.0/topicseen.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7434.0/topicseen.html)
I like the 230 Tour Master so far.
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@Laitch - Yes. Bend, not break. Having bent a few dirt bike rims myself, I have never actually broken one. I am guilty of sloppy, casual writing there, like... you know... I was all... you know...
@F14 - thanks for the link. Glad to hear you are happy with those tires - and on the Y-spoke rims too.
I'll at least put the front tire on in the next few weeks. I want to replace the steering bearings and the wheel bearings at the same time. The front brakes pulse a bit so we'll see if new bearings help with that or not - if not, I may be in the market for floating rotors (and pads and maybe some caliper rebuild kits for good measure). I've seen a few posts where people are happy with the EBC rotors - looks like about $500. Is EBC the only (or best) aftermarket option?
I saw some description of the pulsing problem being attributed to the pads and rotors sort of "welding" when they sit for a long time - and this bike sat for a while in the weather. The whole bottom end is fairly corroded. So if this "welding" thing is true, then these rotors may already be damaged.
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Regarding your Shinko 230 Tourmasters, I have run one on the rear of my K75RT and have gotten over 10,000 miles on it. I don't know about the aramid belts, but the 230 is NOT a radial tire. As far as radial tires for the K75, unfortunately, there are none readily available at this time that will fit the narrower wheels on these bikes.
One of the characteristics of the BMW wheels is that they are made of a softer, more malleable alloy that the wheels of the Japanese bikes. This means that they will bend easier, but the benefit is that they will not crack under heavy impact, and because of that, will not have catastrophic air loss.
A side benefit of the soft alloy is that with a bit of care, they can be straightened. With a few blows from a dead blow hammer I was able to take a small dent out of the three spoke front wheel of my K100.
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Ha my front rotors and pads weld together often. It'll happen after sitting in my carport for a couple days if its raining. I find out as it comes to a halt coming off the center stand. A couple light hammer taps on the rotor and its free though
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Congrats on your new bike Scud. I bought your HES when you parted out your oilhead RT at BMWST.com and may have to hit you up for some K bits as I chase a summer/fall worth of gremlins out of my K.
JcJ
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Congrats on your new bike Scud. I bought your HES when you parted out your oilhead RT at BMWST.com and may have to hit you up for some K bits as I chase a summer/fall worth of gremlins out of my K.
JcJ
Cool - I recognized that crow-bomber image in your profile pic and wondered if that was you. Send me a message or e-mail with a list of what you need. Both bikes run, so I probably have whatever you need - (except I think I'll probably hold the HES for the K75 in reserve). I might not disassemble the 1990 till after Thanksgiving.
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Unbelievable on the drain plug!
Yeah, I can barely believe it myself. The PO had been adding oil regularly and the belly pan was a mess. I stuffed a bunch of paper towels in there right after I bought the bike - to soak the oil out of the belly pan. The oil pooled up again (and I added oil) before I got it home. I was mentally ready for a big, messy job, but I just wiped the whole engine and transmission with a paper towel and there was not a drop of oil anywhere. The leak has totally stopped. It's amazing what a snug plug can do to transform a bike.
I am stoked! :clap:
@Mighty - thanks for the clarification on the Shinko tires.
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A window of time opened up so I disassembled the 1990 K75s today. Here's the peak of the mess:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/f1bb70ce702c75ce/IMG_4191.jpg)
The poor old girl is done now... sort of sad, but she had a good life. Bad tranny (known) and I discovered a lot of oil in the cooling system when I drained the water. Lots of other little parts about ready to fail such as fuel lines... but lots of newer, or otherwise useable stuff too. I've got my own little parts counter now - this will be a huge time and money saver.
Little thing worth checking - one of the four fork cross-member bolts was missing. It was on the left side. That's also the side that had the blown fork seal - and the left side of the tire seemed to be cupped a bit more than the right. I don't know if that could be a cause... but I would not have otherwise ever looked to make sure all four bolts were still up under the fender.
After I tidied up, I managed to get the engine and transmission oil changed on the 1992. Engine oil was nasty - looks like the Seafoam did its job..
I used Redline Shockproof Heavy Duty gear oil in the tranny. I also run this in my Guzzis. The raspberry smoothie looking oil absolutely transformed the K75s transmission. Far smoother and quieter shifts. Significantly less effort - even clutchless shifts are feeling good. And neutral is my new best friend. WOW!!! This oil made only a slight difference in my Guzzis (which already have a fabulous 6-speed tranny) - but the difference in the K75 is MASSIVE.
If I can get this kind of transformation in other areas I will be a happy camper. The Progressive shock was also a huge improvement - so I went ahead and ordered a pair of Progressive fork springs to match. Also ordered for the front end: EBC rotors and pads, caliper rebuild kits, wheel bearings, and steering bearings (All-Balls for all bearings). That and new tire (tior?) should make magic up front.
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Installed three new fuel lines today. The ones on the bike were badly cracked. When I noticed it, I called "fire hazard."
This topic was very helpful re fuel lines:
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,1042.0.html Thanks. :2thumbup:
Very nice tips in there, which saved me a few bucks. But more importantly, I got it done on a Monday, when all the dealers are closed.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/1992%20K75s/IMG_4208.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/1992%20K75s/IMG_4208.jpg.html)
It was convenient to be able to salvage enough of the OEM screw-type fuel line clamps to replace all the single-use clamps that I cut off. Also moved the '90 gas tank over to the '92. Found another nasty dent on the '92 tank that was previously hidden by the fairing.
Also made a first attempt at getting the ABS to work. Using a multi-meter, I verified the fault at test point 2 as described in one of the ABS threads. Then I tried the reset several times, all to no avail... Then I gave it a lobotomy: took out the brain and the ABS relay. No more flashing red lights on the dash.... ah.... that feels better.
Maintenance question: how often do you all clean the throttle bodies? I assumed I would get into this pretty soon, but then I noticed that both bikes still have the stock, single-use clamps around the airbox boots - so unless somebody put that kind of clamp back on, it suggests they've never been cleaned... and that I am probably going to have to replace the rubber boots.
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Great thread, thanks for posting all this w/ links to other useful tips :2thumbup:!
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Maintenance question: how often do you all clean the throttle bodies? I assumed I would get into this pretty soon, but then I noticed that both bikes still have the stock, single-use clamps around the airbox boots - so unless somebody put that kind of clamp back on, it suggests they've never been cleaned... and that I am probably going to have to replace the rubber boots.
Cleaning the TBs isn't usually an issue, on K's you do that job to replace the rubber above and below the TBs. There are good threads on here about how to do it, including info on what screw clamps are suitable to replace the Oetiker clamps from the factory.
Happy Thanksgiving everybody!
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Tidying up the tail a bit....
- Shorter fender from 1990 bike
Removed stock side and rear reflectors and used mounting holes for blue reflector dots
Added Moto-Reflective Saddlebag stickers
Lightly tinted taillight and turn signals with VHT Nightshades paint
Also got both seats recovered at a local shop. Put the stocker back on for now, will probably end up using the Corbin - all depends on which one my wife finds more comfortable.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/1992%20K75s/IMG_4307.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/1992%20K75s/IMG_4307.jpg.html)
The supplies and parts (bearing, rubber, etc.) are queueing up... and I'm waiting on a nice box of goodies from Max's BMW...
Meanwhile, she's been a good commuter and airport runner - I've got a lot of business travel over the next couple months.
Free motorcycle parking at LAX - I love how they say to just ride around the barrier and don't take a ticket.
http://www.lawa.org/welcome_lax.aspx?id=8702
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Coming along nicely Tim :2thumbup:
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It looks like I am going to have some playtime soon. I've accumulated some parts, paint, and even some Staburags for the spline lube. I will pick up a few parts from the powder-coater early next week. Need to box up the rest of the 1990 parts so I can use my lift again. Meanwhile, here are a some areas where I would appreciate some advice:
Forks: It seems the forks are not the same from a 1990 and a 1990 (both K75s). From what I can gather, the Showa forks from the 1992 are the most desirable. However the tubes are pitted, and I had hoped to use the clean tubes from the 1990. Is this possible - or are these forks totally incompatible with each other? FYI - I have Progressive springs to install, and I said I had a 1992 K75s when I placed the order from Max's BMW.
Wiring: I've decided to eliminate the ABS. Given that I am going to dig pretty deep into the bike to clean it up, paint some things, and lube other things, swapping wiring harnesses wouldn't be a lot of extra effort. However, the 1990 and 1992 relay boxes look very different inside. The 1990 was a non-ABS bike - and did not have a flasher switch. I'm not aware of any other differences. Is there any significant difference in quality, reliability, cost of replacement relays, etc. between a 1990 and 1992 wiring harness? Of course, I could leave the 1992 harness in place, but since I am ditching the ABS, it would be nice to remove all the related, and unneeded wiring.
ECUs: Are the 1990 and 1992 ECUs the same - or is one more desirable than the other?
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Forks: From Anton Largiader's web site, he's stating that the K75 were fitted with Fichtel and Sachs forks from 1985 onwards. In 1990, the K75S model introduced the "S" forks; "S" forks will have an S stamped in the fork cap. "S" forks have damping valves in one leg only. From 8/1991 through 1996, F&S were replaced with Showa. Check the stanchion diameters; according to this table (http://technik.flyingbrick.de/images/9/95/31_GabelabmessungenBMWK%2BR-Modelle.pdf), there are two different diameters for F&S and Showa forks, 41.0mm and 41.3mm.
Wiring: There is a different layout for the relay box on ABS equipped models. The harness will have additional wiring to accommodate the ABS components. But it should be beguine in your application. Choose the harness that provides all the functionality you need and which is in the best condition.
ECU: Should be the same for both models.
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Thanks for the wiring/ecu info. It sounds like I can either harness, which is good to know. It's kind of funny that many things from the older, higher mileage bike are slightly better condition - because it was garaged, while the other bike sat outside for a while.
Forks:
Thanks also for the fork info - I got a little confused and that table was very helpful. The differences are as you described. I saw the "S" stamped on the 1990 parts and I measured the difference in diameters.
If I keep the Showas, I have to tolerate a bit of pitting unless I can find a nice set of fork tubes. However, I might try filling the pits with superglue - I've heard of people doing that - then using super-fine wet sandpaper to smooth it off. The purpose of this is to make the fork seals last longer.
However, I have some steering head bearings to install and could swap the entire front end including triple clamps without much extra effort (although the 1990s leak and need to be rebuilt).
Is there any difference in performance/reliability between the 1990s Fiskel and Sachs vs the 1992s Showas? Is one fork considered better than the other?
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The Showa has compression / rebound damping only in one leg (LHS). I think the F&S has damping in both.
As they stand, neither fork looks to be better than the other. Maybe consider buying and installing Racetech Gold Emulators for the one you choose to install. That should allow for low and high speed damping control that is currently lacking in the damping rod design.
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The Showa has preload as well as compression / rebound damping only in one leg (LHS). The other leg has just springing and preload.
I believe it's only the Sport forks that have left and right differing components. The Showa's should be the same in both tubes.
The Showas have a larger specified oil capacity than either of the others.
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Thanks guys, for the fork discussion - gives me some more to think about.
Meanwhile, I totally disassembled the engine and some remaining sub-assemblies from the 1990 parts-bike today. The oil and water had mixed, and several bearings were not good. The worst bearing was the one in the cylinder block for the gear that drives the alternator - totally toasted and the engine case was severely blackened around the overheated bearing. This bearing seems to be rather weak in comparison to the rest of the engine - and you'd never know it was bad unless you removed the entire clutch housing.
However, the cylinder walls looked good, as did the main bearings and connecting rod bearings - after 180,000 miles.
I'm putting my Shinko rear tire on now and was second-guessing my choice of Y-spoke vs. 3-spoke wheels. So I decided to weigh the two rear wheels. Interestingly, the Y-spoke is nearly a full pound lighter than the 3-spoke. I expected the older wheel to be heavier.
1990 Y-spoke rear wheel weighs 10 lbs, 14 oz.
1992 3-spoke rear wheel weighs 11 lbs., 11 oz.
FYI - both wheels had no tire, but did have a valve stem and about the same amount of wheel balancing weights. For anyone who cares about unsprung weight, the older rims offer almost a 1 pound advantage, since I also like the looks of the y-spokes, I'm going to stick with those.
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The source of my information:
(http://i18.servimg.com/u/f18/16/61/73/02/sport_10.jpg)
Posted to K100-forum by Inge K. (I'm in no knowledge position to contradict him) :)
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That's a description of the Sport fork, true enough, Robert.
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Maybe in this post—http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7638.msg54673.html#msg54673—you were thinking "Sport" but wrote "Showa."
Anyway, Scud's moved on to wheels. You want to donate those three-spoke wheels to the Elderly Riders Association of Ridley Brook, Scud? If you do, you'll earn an attractive coffee mug with a handsome Dunkin Donuts logo for your generous contribution!
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Dunkin' Donuts? That's East Coast for sure... the only times I see DD is when I travel East.
I'll get around to listing some stuff for sale later (gotta pay for my play), but if you really do need some wheels (or anything else for that matter) let me know.
Here's a picture of that smoked bearing from the 180,000 mile engine. For orientation purposes, the bottom of the picture is the rear cylinder.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/1992%20K75s/IMG_4337.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/1992%20K75s/IMG_4337.jpg.html)
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Dunkin' Donuts? That's East Coast for sure... the only times I see DD is when I travel East.
All the more reason to get yourself one of these attractive mugs now, before New England is underwater.
I don't really need these wheels, I just want spares for knobblies, i.e. not-quite-knobbies. I try to live by the adage, "I cried because I had no spare rims until I met a man who had no Hall Effect Sensor." I wouldn't mind knowing the price when they go on the block though.
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Well, for some 50/50 street/dirt tires (or other ratio), you might be better off with the older Y-spokes. Lighter, stronger, cheaper. 8 attachments to the rim vs. 3 attachments for the newer wheels would be a real benefit if you think you might hit some rougher terrain.
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Those Y-spokes aren't going to be cheaper if you donate your three-spokes to me. :hehehe Besides, the Y-spokes are too damn fancy for me and as far as their being stronger, I watch where I'm going most of the time and the rest of the time the three-spokes on my bike bash through the dirt road pothole fields just fine. Maybe the extra weight gives them some oomph. The spares would be for gravel road mud so I could skate faster in prolonged rainy spells, not for hill-climbing competitions.
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Hi Scud:
Can you please do me a favour? Since you have the triple clamp off the '90 K75S frame, can you measure some steering parts for me:
- length of pivot stem (from lower triple clamp to top)
- diameter of pivot stem
- length of steering head on frame
- bearing seat diameter on steering head on frame
I need these dimensions for a project I'm contemplating. Thank you.
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@RBM - here are the results from the 1990 parts.
Pivot Stem:
Length from top of lower triple clamp to top of threads: 176mm
Length from top of lower triple clamp to where tapering begins: 128mm
Diameter (to fit inside bearings): 28mm
Note that I ignored the portion of the steering stem that goes into the lower triple clamp
Frame:
Steering head length: 165mm
Steering bearing seat diameter: 52mm (BTW, this matches the outside diameter of the bearings I bought for the 1992)
Please also note that I used an analog caliper; it's possible that some rounding to the nearest mm occurred.
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I've been going step by step to see how each change helps with my goal of eliminating some front brake pulsing. The new front tire reduced the pulsing a bit (the old one was cupped). I just put in some new front wheel bearings and while I was at it checked the steering head for play - there's none, so I was apparently a little over-zealous when I ordered the steering bearings. After a short spin, I'm pleased to see that the pulsing is much reduced - to a barely perceptible level. However, next up are new EBC floating rotors and pads, along with caliper rebuild kits - this ought to totally eliminate the pulsing.
I also got some Spiegler stainless brake lines - but ran into a snag. I got them for the 1990 non-ABS setup, but apparently the PO of the 1990 replaced the original lines with some that go all the way to the calipers - and deleted the bent, metal brake tubes that go from the calipers to brackets on the forks. Called Beemer Boneyard, they do not sell used brake lines of any type, due to liability reasons - and they won't accidentally throw them away in my general direction either. I asked...
I also put on a new Shinko rear tire. The bike is much more stable and predictable now. I like new tires. :riding:
I've seen some complete front brake setups on eBay for a bit over $100 - but I already have 4 front brake rotors and would really rather not buy another set jus to get the metal tubes. I suppose I could try to find some same-length straight tubes and bend them myself... after I visit my friend who has my brake tubing bender...
Questions for today:
1) How long do steering bearings tend to last?
2) Related to Steering - does the 1992 bike come with the Fluid-block steering-damper? It feels like it has some resistance - this is new technology to me.
3) Anybody have, or know where I can source, the metal brake lines that go from the calipers to the fork brackets?
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Bearings last as long as bearings last, I got 140,000 Ks out of mine. It depends on lots of things, how you ride, do you do lots of wheelies , stoppies etc. Where you ride do you ride on lots of rough roads. And do you check and adjust them at regular intervals. I have a 92 K75 and it has a fluid block damper as far as I know all 75's after 85 had a damper 100's did not. In order to check steering head bearing the two screws that go into damper must be backed off. When replacing the bearings be very careful to not damage the damper as they are no longer available. A special silicon grease is also needed available as Dow Corning High Vacuum Grease. There is plenty of information available on how to do it. Can't help with the brake lines.
Regards Martin
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2) Related to Steering - does the 1992 bike come with the Fluid-block steering-damper? It feels like it has some resistance - this is new technology to me.
The fluid block damper is number 2 in this diagram. It should stand right out there, Scud. I think number 8 is a can of vanilla frosting.
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Frosting...LOL!
Hard brake lines. ..available new from bmw? If not, simple to make.
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greetings scud...
the hose man off the 5 and the 91 (http://www.hose-man.com/lamirada.html)... send your hoses so they can see the ends you need... then tell him how many of how long of each...
since you aints too far away id take them there... i know they can make them while you wait (http://www.hose-man.com/brakelinehose.html) if you call in advance...
j o
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Thanks for answering my questions while I am getting brick-acclimated. I didn't notice anything like that fluid block when I disassembled the 1990 - perhaps it was removed from that bike. I haven't had the forks or steering spindle off the 1992 yet, so now I know what I'm looking for. And being that we are in the Christmas season, frosting should be easy to obtain.
I'll get the last few inches of brake lines figured out. It was just a bummer to think I had all the parts ready to go and then to find out that I was missing something, especially because I spent a bit extra on the Spiegler lines, thinking that would "guarantee" an easy install...
My sad little story... :musicboohoo:
Observation for the record: the wheel bearings on the Y-spokes and 3-spokes are not interchangeable. It's surprising how many differences there are between these two motorcycles. I guess BMW really took "continuous improvement" to heart in that era.
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rodger that...
they finally got it right with the 1996 k1100 rs... the worlds most eloquent riding machine... since they couldnt make them better they just stopped making them all together...
j o
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Here's a not-so-great picture of the flat-black powdercoated parts (they look even better in person). It cost me about $100 for the BMW parts (I had some stuff done for a Guzzi at the same time). It's so convenient to be able to still ride the 1992 K75s, while the parts from the 1990 get coated... FWIW, powdercoating is such a smooth, hard surface that the flat black has a bit of sheen to it - not at all like flat black rattle can paint - more like satin black rattle can.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/1992%20K75s/IMG_4344.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/1992%20K75s/IMG_4344.jpg.html)
I also bought a cheap front brake caliper from e-bay that had the hard line still attached. Painted the rear brake master cylinder with VHT's satin black brake caliper paint, which I will also use on all three calipers and the fork bottoms. I'm going to use VHT's satin black engine case paint for the remainder of the engine, tranny and driveline - and whatever other little bits need attention.
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Wow - six weeks since I've done anything to the brick besides ride it and put gas in it.
Finally got around to putting on the first of my powdercoated bits - the fuel door. Too bad the tank paint has 180,000 miles on it (paint will be later). Hoping to get some wrench-time this weekend.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/1992%20K75s/IMG_4596.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/1992%20K75s/IMG_4596.jpg.html)
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I've got the whole back-end apart, including the transmission off for spline lube. Doing ABS delete, and getting ready to paint and generally clean up before reassembly.
A few questions:
Swingarm bearings - all four bearings (two swingarms to choose from on reassembly) rotate well and do not feel notchy. However, they all have some lateral play - meaning I can move part of the bearing in and out a little. Is this normal? If so, I assume they snug up when on install from tightening the LH pivot pin - correct?
Clutch wear - is there any way to tell how much life is left in a clutch disc without removing it? Or a related question, about how many miles can I expect from a clutch disk? Bike has over 40,000 miles, clutch works well, but I don't mind replacing it while I'm in there if it's "about time" anyway.
Interchangeability of splines - as I determine the best-condition driveshaft and final drive, should I have any concern about mix/match - or try to keep parts together that were previously together>
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Clutch. ...5mm is approx new thickness iirc. At 40k miles, it should be good for a long time to come.
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No way to determine clutch wear unless you measure the thickness of the disk, which requires removal and disassembly of the clutch pack.
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Scud I replaced my clutch at 140,000 k's hardly any wear. I only replaced it because I had ordered a new one special order.
Regards Martin
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Swingarm bearings - all four bearings (two swingarms to choose from on reassembly) rotate well and do not feel notchy.
If it were my bike, I'd bolt one of them onto the bike and move on. If the bike veered on acceleration or braking, I'd mount the other and replace the bearings in the first. You already know dismounting those parts is not a big deal. Strategy depends on which is priority: expense, riding or perfection.
Interchangeability of splines - as I determine the best-condition driveshaft and final drive, should I have any concern about mix/match - or try to keep parts together that were previously together>
I wouldn't be concerned about mix/match of assemblies in this case but if it were my project, I'd ride with the most worn of the two assemblies—if they weren't severely sawtoothed—and keep the better ones for replacement, as long as attempting to recoup costs wasn't a consideration. I'm just that perverse.
Have you posted photos somewhere here showing the condition of these components, Scud?
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Thanks guys, for the insights. The priority for the bike is riding - and primarily pedestrian purposes such as commuting, airport runs, run-about, and probably a few weekend sport-tours. With this project I am playing "free motorcycle" - I previously parted out an R1100RT and parlayed the funds into these two bikes. After selling what I can at the end, I should end up close to zero cost (but that depends on how silly I get with parts and paint). I'll get some pics of the various splines soon.
Meanwhile, today's noteworthy progress is: footpeg plate subassemblies. Powdercoated plates, levers, and passenger peg brackets, Spiegler braided brake line, painted master cylinder (all non-ABS parts from parts bike). Removed ABS pumps and brackets - damn, you would need ABS to stop the bike with all that extra weight.
A lot of stuff on the '92 is corroded. I had to resort to a sledgehammer and drift to get the pin out of the LH rider peg - miraculously without damage to the ABS peg-plate.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/2575411577b35e4e/IMG_4626.jpg)
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Here are the pics of the various splines (I didn't get a picture of the transmission output, but it's about the same condition as the input).
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/0b100b5782147ba1/Screen Shot 2016-03-02 at 10.58.02 PM.jpg)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/8fd161a197ae3bb1/Screen Shot 2016-03-02 at 7.29.40 PM.jpg)
My assessment is the clutch and transmission input look good and both driveshafts look good. The 1992 final drive splines look in better shape, but I'm not sure how much life the 1990 final drive splines have left in them. What say those of you who have seen many of these?
As a reminder, the 1992 parts are original with about 44,000 miles and I think this is the first time they've been opened since new. The 1990 had many repairs along the way and I don't know how many miles are on each part.
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The 1990 driveshaft looks to me like it has less sawtooth effect on the rear splines than the '92. Straight-on photos of the rear drives would be more helpful to me for assessing the shaft splines. The '92 looks mighty fine from that angle.
Difficult choices, Scud, but at least you have some.
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Looking straight at the splines helps, now I see what you mean by the sawtooth effect - the 1990 final drive splines have more sawtooth than the 1992, right?
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/1992%20K75s/Screen%20Shot%202016-03-02%20at%2010.58.02%20PM.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/1992%20K75s/Screen%20Shot%202016-03-02%20at%2010.58.02%20PM.jpg.html)
So, what I think I'd like to do if it makes sense is: run the 1990 for a while, then dump it and put the 1992 back in. How long might the 1990 go without any significant risk of failure? 10,000 miles? More? Less?
If the 1990 has a bit of life left, maybe I should just keep the driveshafts paired with the final drives they're already used to.
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If It was me I'd use the best and save the other for a spare
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+1 with Gazman. Maybe it's the light, but the '92 looks better, run the better parts, catastrophic failure is unlikely, no need to fully tear down again.
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The splines on the '90 parts look like they would give you a couple of years minimum with diligent maintenance, then you could bin them and put in the newer ones. If you don't plan on keeping the bike long term, I would put in the good ones and sell the older. Again, considering good maintenance, those newer splines should be good for at least 50-60k miles, probably a lot more.
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+1 Gryph
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:2thumbup: Gryph
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OK, now no matter what I do I have to ignore somebody's advice... apologies in advance.
I only have one good transmission, so there's no choice - a good lube and it can stay in place for a long time. I have two of everything from there back. Swingarm bearings seem about the same, but I picked the one that seems slightly smoother.
I think I will run the older shaft and final drive. Rationale: I can get some "free" use. The older one also has a non-ABS brake disc and I am using the older non-ABS caliper, which has good pads already in it. The disc on the older drive is 0.16" - which is getting pretty close to the 0.14" limit. I don't use much rear brake anyway - but when pads get worn or the rotor is too thin, I'll put the newer shaft and final drive back on (which is not a big job).
I do plan to keep the bike for a while. At first I thought I would leave it as sort of a beater-bike, but I have slightly milder case of the same disease that MLytle suffers from. I just cannot re-install a dirty or corroded part. Can't wait to see what Marshall does with the Fox shock from my 1990 bike.
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you have two serviceable shafts and drives.....there is no bad choice.
as for the Fox shock...I already spent some quality time cleaning it up, and it is off to a rebuilder today....:-)
do you have a pic of where the remote reservoir was mounted along the frame? that hose is pretty long!
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do you have a pic of where the remote reservoir was mounted along the frame? that hose is pretty long!
Here you go. The hose made a turn between the battery and inner fender:
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/1992%20K75s/IMG_4144.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/1992%20K75s/IMG_4144.jpg.html)
The 1990 didn't have saddlebags or racks mounted (but I got an unused set of Z-racks that I will use on re-assembly). Basically, I'm going to use the whole backend of the 1990 (as pictured here before disassembly) for a while - except that I have a new Progressive shock without reservoir.
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ah, thanks. that hose could be 8 inches shorter if mounted with hose facing back....
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Marshall, the reservoir for the Fox Twin Clicker on my K100RS is mounted on the opposite side of the rear frame loop from the shock. You might want to try that mounting scheme. Without going out to the garage and looking, I want to say that the hose comes out of the front facing side of the shock and loops around in the space between the ECU and the rear mudguard.
As far as I know, there are no special requirements for mounting the reservoir, you can pretty much put it anywhere it fits and doesn't get in the way. You do want to have access to the damping knob on the reservoir for getting the damping tuned.
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Getting lined up for assembly. Fresh paint on transmission, swingarm, final drive, rear caliper, and some other little bits.
Can someone please explain why my wife is not excited about this? It can't possibly be that this is where she normally parks and her car has been outside for a week... :dunno2:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/28832e7d7c62c327/IMG_4645.jpg)
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Scud, you obviously have failed to make you wife feel a part of the project experience. Give her a sense of ownership and pride in your project. Some helpful ideas you should consider , let her clean the greasy parts with solvent, put the tools back in their proper place after you use them and throw them around the garage, sweep the floor, run to the store for parts whenever you need them, take pictures of you working, and any other task that comes to mind. All of this will give her a new attitude. It sure worked with my ex-wife.
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Don't forget having her bring you sandwiches and beer...
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(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/1992%20K75s/IMG_4644.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/1992%20K75s/IMG_4644.jpg.html)
all I can think of seeing this is an IKEA box exploded. "SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED"
"sweety, could you get me another beer? this is gonna take longer than I expected....."
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... All of this will give her a new attitude. It sure worked with my ex-wife.
Ex being the key word in this description.
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Thank-you gentlemen; I think we understand each other. And my wife is really great about my various projects - although "this is gonna take longer than I expected."
Meanwhile, I'm impressed with the VHT Engine Case paint. VHT's satin black gives a luster that's similar to the flat black powdercoating. It goes nicely too, definitely the best rattle-can paint I've used. Yesterday, the clutch housing looked as bad as the case cover that's currently on the bike.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/28832e7d7c62c327/IMG_4645.jpg)
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All of this will give her a new attitude. It sure worked with my ex-wife.
Yes ... ex is a keyword , but when changing attitudes one should be specific as to which new one you want .
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You need to give her a sense of pride and ownership, buy her a BMW T-Shirt. Secondhand if you need the money for the bike. If you really want to go for it, have one custom made with something like MY MAN BUILT THIS WHAT HAS YOURS DONE.
Regards Martin.
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Ha - she bought herself a Triumph T-shirt recently and has been hinting that we need something "cute" to ride together. We've been married for 20 years. I registered for wedding gifts at the local BMW motorcycle dealer. She put her list up at some department store (fancy plates and stuff). I'm trying to win her over to the brick after it looks pretty. I did let her choose between the stock and Corbin seats. After I got them both recovered I put each one on the bike - so she's had a bit of input (she liked the Corbin).
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Have you considered Brain Washing, place a speaker under her pillow at night. Place messages on how her life will only be fulfilled by buying more Bricks.
Regards Martin.
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Best thing I ever did to win my wife over to riding was to take her to the dealer to get her own boots, her own helmet that fits like she wants, and a decent jacket & gloves so she stayed warm. All the complaining went away on our rides after that.
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OK boys, we interrupt this lovely group marriage counseling session for a side- and center-stand rebuild.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/501d696739f8f951/IMG_4651.jpg)
What's up with the little holes where I put the yellow zip ties? These holes face up when the stand is up, they would accumulate moisture and dirt. It seems like they are supposed to take grease fittings. But my other stand also just has holes. Has anybody put grease fittings in there? Or just grease, assemble, and forget about it?
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Grease fittings. Mine has them.
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Thanks, I'll find some and install after paint. Just curious: Did you put them in, or did they come on the bike?
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Mine were there.
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The zerks weren't on earlier bikes. The stands were greased through the hole using a conical fitting on the grease gun.
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When I first got my bike it had small hex head plugs, which I replaced with grease nipples. When I did my last spline lube I also drilled and taped the clutch pivot arm to take a grease nipple.
Regards Martin.
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Thanks guys - I didn't know about conical grease gun fittings. I just watched the balance of Chris Harris' spline lube videos on YouTube, and he used one of those fittings, rather than install a pair of zerks. ...some lubrication and assembly required.
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We have a rolling chassis again and my wife will get to park in the garage next week. Chris Harris' videos helped. I used plenty of anti-seize, I used a f-ing torque wrench, the tables in the Clymer Manual are great. I'm not sure if I swore enough though.
Lubed:
- Clutch splines with Staburags
- Driveshaft splines with Staburags
- Final drive oil - Red Line Heavy Shockproof
- Center and Side-stands - BTW - I didn't get any zerks for it yet, just lubed it really well on assembly. I have to say - this was worth the extra effort and I had not planned on doing this. The stands move very freely and quietly now (plus I knocked all the rust off and it looks better).
- Anything else that moves
Painted:
- clutch housing
- transmission
- swingarm
- final drive
- rear brake caliper (VHT Caliper Paint)
- centerstand (and sidestand and all little bits - even the springs)
New:
- Spiegler stainless brake line
- brake line to rear reservoir
- Unused Z-racks (came with parts bike)
- Swapped out lots of fasteners and little bits from parts bike. My toolbox/ECU carrier was only riding on one rubber bushing - fortunately I had three spares in my mini parts-store.
Gone:
- ABS pumps and bracket
- ABS hard brake lines
- ABS wiring (but left connections on main harness)
- ABS-compatible peg plates - I had the non-ABS plates from the 1990 bike powdercoated so I would have the guards for passenger's feet.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/bb533b5d60dd708b/IMG_4660.jpg)
Up next: Front brakes. I wanted to get the new fork springs in this weekend and do some more work up front, but I think I will have to take that in stages. Still haven't put on my powdercoated crank and valve covers...
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Looking good!
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You have done a very thorough job. That bike will be as good as new.
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I have an RT I would like to loan you for a month or so!
Nice work!!!
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You must be happy to have the end in sight, you should be proud.
Regards Martin. :clap:
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I am getting pretty excited about finishing the mechanical bits and then seeing about some paint (at least the tank, but a there are few other scratches). The engine is still a mess (especially the left side) - so a good tune/clean is still in order.
I hit a snag though - it seems the PO of the 1990 forced SAE brake lines into the tube that goes through the steering head - so now I can't connect my new braided lines to get fluid from the reservoir to the freshly rebuilt calipers and new rotors. I'm pleased with the look of these rotors and they saved a fair bit of weight.
EBC rotor weighs 3 lbs, 11.2 oz (postage scale) and is 0.19" thick
Stock LH rotor weights 3 lbs 11.5 oz but is worn to 0.17"
Stock RH rotor with ABS ring weighs 5 lbs 2.6 oz (also at 0.17")
Along with the weight I saved by swapping to older wheels, and assuming a few more ounces for the ABS sensor and bracket - I've probably cut front wheel unsprung weight by more than 3 pounds - that translates into smoother ride and better tire contact.
:curvy-road :2thumbup:
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/1992%20K75s/IMG_4660.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/1992%20K75s/IMG_4660.jpg.html)
Also tinted the front turn signals.
I only park it on flower pedals.
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Actually, I have a bigger snag than I thought....... so here's my puzzle:
The metal down-tube for the front brakes - as used in the 1990 non-ABS with the Sport forks - does not fit in the same space in the 1992 with the Showa forks. I had assumed all along that it would fit, but when I saw that mine was damaged and thought about buying another, I decided to test-fit it first. Wish I had test fit that earlier...
Here's what I have to work with:
- 1992 forks with pitted fork tubes - PO said he had seals replaced recently, but I just noticed today that they are starting to leak again.
- 1990 forks with smooth tubes - but leaking a bit
- New in box All-Balls steering head bearings for 1992 - but I think these are not compatible with 1990.
- New in box Spiegler front brake lines for 1990 non-ABS bike
- New in box Progressive fork springs for 1992 - not sure if these are compatible with 1990.
I think my options are:
1 - keep existing forks, but would need to buy a custom brake line and either buy new fork tubes or try resurfacing these.
2 - swap to the 1990 forks - would need steering bearings and a new brake down-tube.
Both options involve rebuilding the forks (seals and oil) so I am ignoring that for decision-making purposes.
It seems that swapping to the 1990s might be less expensive and easier - and based on earlier conversation there does not appear to be a clearly superior fork between these two options.
Is there any difference between frames that would make swapping forks difficult? What am I missing?
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There are products out there to repair pitting in forks I believe you can also use Super Glue. Any products used require sanding down with fine emery, filling the pits and either scaping down or sanding down. I have tried to contact an old mate who successfully did this with an US product on his Honda CB 900. Phone number no longer active. If I find out I will post.
Regards Martin. :2thumbup:
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Found the product it's called Cronabraze 92C it's a type of solder. You can see it on Utube. Mate ran for at least 5 years with that repair until he sold it. There are quite a few posts on fork pitting repairs Gel Super glue, JB Weld, two part epoxy.
Regards Martin.
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I used some oil and a razor blade to scrape off the rims around the divots on the forks. This worked well and seems to have stopped the leak.
But on my recent trip to Phoenix, my fairing started to loosen up (bouncing headlight). I discovered one missing bolt and several loose bolts - and a fiberglass repair inside one of the fairing panels. (fortunately, I have another panel in good condition).
I am also not happy with my custom front brake lines (after deleting the ABS). They were rubbing a bit and I had to zip tie them.
And the more I look at the 1990 forks, the better they look... so...
Swapped out the triple clamps and forks today. The brake lines have been a real puzzle for this project - but I think I finally managed to get all the bits I need and be able to use the Speigler lines I ordered a while ago. I should be able to put it together tomorrow and see how the BMW Sport forks feel.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/1992%20K75s/IMG_4759.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/1992%20K75s/IMG_4759.jpg.html)
No time for painting or other cosmetic work this weekend. Just gonna try to get it assembled in better working order.
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I only park it on flower pedals.
Aren't those Hong Kong orchid tree flowers you're using to carpet the garage, Scud? I think that's a classic ritual use by subtropical bike mechanics.
Getting back to the bike, my bike has a Showa fork that has one line from the master cylinder to the right brake then from there is a steel line bridging the fender to the left brake. Is that how your Showa was set up?
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Yes, that's a Hong Kong Orchid tree in the background. Well-spotted.
The Showas with ABS went like this:
- Rubber hose from Master to frame junction
- Hard lines to and from ABS unit
- Rubber hose to RH caliper (secured by bracket on upper grille)
- Hard line under fender connecting two calipers (no bleeder on RH caliper)
By deleting the ABS, I eliminated the need for a connection at the frame - and I just didn't get the routing or hose length correct.
Anyway - I just bled the brakes with the BMW Sport forks and Spiegler brake line kit. This setup uses the downpipe in the steering head and it splits off to two braided lines (in photo above) which connect to two hard lines (one on each caliper).
FYI - my downpipe did have an SAE fitting forced into it. But I was able to remove it and clean up the threads by working a banjo bolt in and out with some thread lube - sort of like re-tapping the threads.
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I got the BMW Sport forks filled with the correct amount of oil - after a cleaning out with ATF (thanks Johnny for describing that process, I had not heard of that before.) I kind of like the idea of the Sport forks too - as I understand it, these are the most rare type of fork, manufactured by BMW for only a few years before they went with the Showas.
The handling is far superior - much more stable and predictable. The PO of the 1990 said the sport forks had stiffer springs - and to be fair in my comparison to the Showas, I don't know whether they had the correct amount or type of oil in them, but the PO of the 1990 said the forks were recently serviced. The Sport forks do still leak a tiny bit of oil, so I'll get some seals in before long - but good to know that they are working well before I rip into it again for further "refreshing" and cosmetics.
Went for a 50-mile night-ride. The little brick is getting better and better... Getting the fairing on securely and putting some split fuel line between the bracket cover and gauge to prevent bouncing made it a real joy. Got rained on, even though I was riding under a fairly clear sky and could see stars. Flushed out two huge owls who crossed the road overhead. A worthy little romp - and I think this was the first time I've taken the brick out with no saddlebags and no particular place to go.
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Finally making some more progress. While I've been pleased with the improvements in handling, the front-end still wasn't quite right. There was some chatter in the front end on braking, and I found the stiffer springs to be too stiff for rough roads.
Here's what I've got going on now:
Replaced steering bearing and races with All Balls brand
This thread, and the fuch!ng Chris Harris video, were very helpful. I had never done this task before. http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,6906.0.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,6906.0.html) The old races had clear signs of wear, including a spot that got pitted (perhaps from sitting outside in the weather). I suspect now that the pitting contributed to the front-end chatter. FWIW - I used the dust seals that came with the All Balls bearings, despite the common-wisdom recommendation to discard those and use the BMW type. I have put the forks back on and the steering head moves smoothly and effortlessly. More discussion (and pictures) about the dust seals at the above link.
Removed Fluidbloc steering damper
I suspected that the damper might have gone to the dark side and started working against me. It can only be removed when the steering bearing races are out (FYI - a bit of clothes-hanger dowel is the perfect driver to remove the damper). It was a bit mangled - I don't think I have ever seen a picture of one, so here is the one I removed, for the record.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/bd957c97e372ffb1/IMG_4957.jpg)
Had the 1990 Sport forks rebuilt
I was planning to do this task on my own, and had secured all the parts, but decided to let a pro do it. Glad I did - he said it was very difficult to disassemble the old ones, becuase the springs were so strong and there was some corrosion up top, probably due to failed O-rings. Progressive springs are in (hopefully will match ride quality with the Progressive shock), along with seals, o-rings, and all new crush washers.
Bits of paint and polish... more pics when it's rolling again.
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Thanks for updating the thread, Scud.
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Would like your thoughts on the difference with the Fluid Bloc damper removed. Did you get enough miles up to compare the before and after.
Regards Martin.
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Martin - the bike is still on the lift. I did lots of miles with the damper, but I think the rebuilt forks, new bearings, and removed damper will all have an effect. It did not previously feel like there was a damper installed - the steering moved pretty freely. However, it is MUCH easier and smoother now. Ride report will have to wait...
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:2thumbup:
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Ride report:
Far smoother, noticeably lighter and quicker steering, more stable in curves (less wandering). Overall, an improvement. I can't say how much of the change is due to each factor (fork rebuild, steering bearings, and removing damper.) However my other bikes have adjustable dampers (Scotts, Ohlins, and Shindy) and when I turn the dampers to provide the least resistance the steering feels lighter and quicker. I assume the smoothing and stability is due to the fork rebuild, with the new bearings also contributing to stability.
For the record, I want to go against the prevailing wisdom of the forum and suggest that the All Balls dust seals are not only adequate, but superior to the BMW dust seals.
I think I have solved the bouncing gauge problem too. I filled all the smallholes in the rubber insulation mount with silicone gasket-maker. The gauge cluster is much more stable now.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/1992%20K75s/IMG_4964.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/1992%20K75s/IMG_4964.jpg.html)
Still gotta find the time to install my powdercoated engine cases (along with valve check and radiator flush). But my daughter's truck needs brakes today...
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Thanks for the review, when I replaced my bearings I really had to hunt to get the special thick silicone grease (expensive Dow Corning High vacuum Grease ). I like your solution to the bouncing gauges, my bikes fine one of my mates bikes is bad. :2thumbup:
Regards Martin.
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Been a while since I updated here. I got a little discouraged by the project - just things taking longer than I want and my wrench-to-ride ratio has got out of balance. In large part due my Red Moto Guzzi (lurking in mirror below) - which needed head gaskets, a new clutch, and some transmission work. Thought of selling the BMW - even placed a couple ads. But I put the price unrealistically high, which means I must not have been too serious. Anyway... I'm going to keep it and finish it up. I gave it a little attention today - new mirrors (because I really detest the lollipop mirrors).
As I was installing them, it occurred to me that I have Axis-power on the bars now. BMW handle bars (Germany); Tomaselli grips (Italy); and Napolean mirrors (Japan). I just finished watching a WWII series...
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/1992%20K75s/IMG_5311.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/1992%20K75s/IMG_5311.jpg.html)
The Napolean mirrors go easily on the LH side, but the RH was a challenge. I was surprised to see how far the throttle tube extends over the handlebar. The mirror installs with rubber compression fitting - which expands into the trhottle tube and locks the throttle. So for anyone else considering these mirrors, here's how I trimmed the fitting and spaced it so stays contained in the handlebar and does not interfere with the throttle.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/1992%20K75s/IMG_5313.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/1992%20K75s/IMG_5313.jpg.html)
Went for short ride - and my fairing is shaking again. I keep snugging it up and it keeps coming loose - that's one of the little things that's been making me mad. But it's solvable. On we go with the project - but probably slowly until I do fair bit of work on my other Moto Guzzi (including another clutch).
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Try some low strength Loctite on the fairing.
Regards Martin.
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Good idea - I'll use some green loctite next time. I'm probably going to use different fasteners too - as I think all that shaking has probably worn the nuts and bolts. It's been a bother, because it held nicely for several hundred miles, then loosened up. It's become an annoying pattern, which made me not want to ride it much.
I was really inspired by a couple other project threads... especially Jay's father-son project. While mine is not an OEM restoration, I certainly will not chop it. I'm going to drop off a few more bits at the powdercoater this week.
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Got the fairing snugged up again - a bolt had fallen out, and one of the clip-nuts' threads had worn too much to hold. Hopefully it stays in place now.
Also decided to go back to the 1992 3-spoke wheels and had them powdercoated a dark grey with some metal-flake sparkle in it. I'm really pleased with how they came out. Those meaty Pirellis are not for the brick... no way a 180 would fit back there.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/b94cba043977d3a3/IMG_5373.jpg)
And a bunch of other little stuff, like this flat-black powdercoated wire mesh. Sooooo much better than that rusty one.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/988f8b351be712c7/IMG_5376.jpg)
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:2thumbup: Looking good, just for comparison how much did it cost to have the wheels powder coated and did they strip them.
Regards Martin.
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$175 for both wheels. I removed all the parts (rotors, bearings) from the front wheel (nothing to remove from rear except valve stem). I cleaned, degreased, removed wheel weights etc. I also polished a few imperfections. But their price included stripping the old paint.
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:2thumbup: Thanks, I have thought about having mine done a couple of times. But I ended up sanding them down and rattle canning them and clearing them. Have done it twice in 19 years.
Regards Martin.
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Silly me... found another K75s for a good price that had an Ohlins shock on it - with a remote, hydraulic preload adjuster. I wrote about it a bit elsewhere, but the short story is that I got a good deal because the owner couldn't get it started. I got running pretty quickly.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/fa276b9415bf6ce8/IMG_5442.jpg)
I rode it to work this morning and am loving the smooth damping and rebound (after total rebuild and new spring). My assumption is that anyone who invested in this top of the line shock did similar quality upgrades to the forks - so I am going to swap those over ASAP.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/8a99449ccc190516/IMG_5602.jpg)
I like the look of the black Progressive shock (and performance was better than the dead shock I removed). But yellow Ohlins on a blue bike... Yummy. :lets-eat:
And before anyone feels compelled to point it out... I know the reservoir should be mounted to the frame rail. I just stuck it on the bag-rack so I could ride it today.
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Love this thread! What's that fender extension on the picture with the powder coat? Do they still make them?
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Thanks. There are several other good project threads too. For example, the mid-life-refresh thread is full of good ideas.
The front fender extension was on the 1990 bike when I got it. I liked it, so I moved it over to the keeper. I don't know if it was a BMW accessory or aftermarket.
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I Don't if you can't find a Fenda Extenda they are easy to make. Even the kick back lip can be achieved see http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7914.msg57660.html#msg57660
Regards Martin.
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The K75 has been doing a lot of commute duty and has been super-reliable. I finally gave her a little love and put on a set of Shinko 230s and finally got the powdercoated rims on - and new bearings up front. The tall, aftermarket windshield cracked beyond repair, so I put on a new standard-style and like it a lot better than the taller one.
And I see botophucket has shielded my images. I'll see about rebuilding those links.
Sorry I haven't been around in a while. Stray Moto Guzzis keep showing up... :musicboohoo:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/e011269e3a948b8c/IMG_6571.jpg)
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I found the same thing... stock S windscreen was far better than tall aeroflow.
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I found the same thing... stock S windscreen was far better than tall aeroflow.
I like the look AND the function better.
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I just put new 4-hole fuel injectors in. The bike starts easier, runs a bit stronger - and it seems to have cured an occasional back-fire problem.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/b1cd2c6fd77482a9/IMG_6942.jpg)
I also just removed the little stainless steel flapper from the gas tank filler. I figure that's good for maybe an extra 3/4 gallon - and easier filling. Gonna ride to Phoenix for work Monday - and back Tuesday night.
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greetings...
needs ohlins yellow pin striping on the wheels...
j o
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Today the wee brick got an iconic top case. Thanks to member 2000rsv for making it available - along with the bracket and all mounting hardware. I love it when everything is there and I don't have dig for extra bits or improvise. :2thumbup:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/e3a1b352c63366f7/IMG_6983.jpg)
I've got another airport run tomorrow. The top case will hold enough extra that I probably won't have to wear a backpack - and it'll hold my short riding boots while I'm away.
It's a rather involved job to install the top case if you don't already have the bracket in place. I had to remove the entire tail section and disassemble it so I could drill though from the bottom. However, the drilling was easy, since the spots to drill were obvious.
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Very nice!
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Be warned... Speed bumps and pot holes will sometimes upset your iconic 22 and cause it to open its mouth in protest, at which point its somewhat feeble hinge becomes the last defense to preventing a lost lid.
It may look a bit tacky, but a bungee across the top brings significant peace of mind and helps me stop compulsively checking the lid's state in my mirror. Especially if it's contents include large amounts of loose cash or classified documents. :yes
I plan to add some snap straps to the sides of mine in the near future as a more permanent and aesthetic fix. And of course, to have a good place to carry large amounts of loose cash or classified documents should I ever have the need... :hehehe
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Speed bumps and pot holes will sometimes upset your iconic 22 and cause it to open its mouth in protest, at which point its somewhat feeble hinge becomes the last defense to preventing a lost lid.
+1 My lid did come off on the highway but luckily I noticed fairly fast and was able to turn round and find it.
I now have a strap around mine...
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And does this involuntary opening ever happen when it is locked - or only when latched and unlocked?
I rode to to airport at 5:30 am at, shall we say, "freeway speeds" and didn't lose any of my non-serialized, unmarked bills or classified documents from my iconic, and locked, 22L top case.
And it's such an easy on/off that I will probably never ride with it empty.
All that said... forewarned is forearmed. So I will select or procure an appropriate boingy strap. I have nice, color-matching blue cargo net... Gotta look good...
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It has happened to me when locked as well as unlocked...
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And does this involuntary opening ever happen when it is locked - or only when latched and unlocked?
It has happened to me when locked as well as unlocked...
No doubt about that happening, Scud. Additional strapping or latching is recommended.
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+1... locked or not is no matter for the 22.
I do however recommend keeping at least 1 of the 2 tragkorb locks locked. As they, especially the rear one, have a tendency to work themselves open. Which only dumps your contents and looks really funny until that little nylon strap comes un-snapped. You then get to join the "deep gouges and severe scratches on the TOP of my tragkorb" club... if you don't lose the outside half all together. Again, the hinge is the weak link in that design as well.
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