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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: 67charger on October 29, 2015, 08:24:58 AM
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Well I experienced my first bout of "whack", my starter relay stuck, but the battery voltage is good. I took the relay apart and the only thing I found was the contacts were not lined up . Only about half of the surfaces were mating up. This must have caused the welding effect. I bent the arm and sanded the surfaces smooth, back in business.
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That was probably spooky for a moment!
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Very slightly spooky, but mostly annoying.
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greetings...
for those starter relay curious... this is what it looks like in there... (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,6393.0.html)
spooky aints it...
j o
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:falldown:I've had my k75 for approx 16 years .Just after I got it the relay stuck and the starter just kept cranking until the battery overheated & the side of the battery blew
out.Battery acid everywhere lucky I had access to plenty of water.After it happened for the second time & I knew to disconnect the earth lead( resulting in one burnt
finger.I have now fitted an in line battery isolator switch ( the smallest I could find).This has been fitted behind the side cover it required the cutting of the earth lead
& removing a short length of cable to accommodate the switch and soldering in two lug connectors.I can now isolate the battery and it can be used as a security device
by removing the key.You can access the switch without having to remove the side cover.Somebody else pointed out that he had a Ural which was fitted with one as standard. It was handy when you wanted to work on the bike & needed
to isolate the electrics.
Regards Martin
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Can we get a pic of your setup? I had the same happen on my "85, don't want it to happen on my LT.
Al
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this is actually a good idea. i have the same setup on my 1975 bmw car. ez to cut power for doing work and can remove key for security.
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I've been looking at disconnects like a race car has. I have had it stick 3 times now, and I'm getting good at quickly taking off the terminal. I've started to pull in the clutch when starting to reduce the amp draw, and it hasn't done it since.
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:falldown:Have attached pics of modification, very hard to get decent shot.I will try and explain installation you need to hunt around auto supply shops and get the smallest
switch possible. I believe I got mine from Autobarn,they let me go out and try switch under the side cover.Beside the switch you will also require two solder in cable lugs
and rubber boots.You then need to lift seat and pull tool box & brain out of the way. Disconnect the positive lead.The earth cable runs west to east horizontally at the west corner it then goes vertically down.On this corner this is where you need to cut out a small piece of cable, make sure you get it right.If you get it wrong you will need a new cable.You need to allow room for the switch and the lugs.Orientate the lugs to the switch, then slide on some shrink wrap & boots first & solder in the lugs.Install the switch
I went a bit overboard and put a rubber disc of insertion rubber to make sure the boot did not wear through and allow the isolator connection to come in contact with the positive terminal of the battery.Once you are happy cable tie everything neatly in position and reconnect the positive. The switch can only just be seen, if you painted the
removable red piece it would be virtually be invisible.I take no responsibility it you undertake this modification. It worked well for me but everybody is different .
Merry Xmas Martin
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Good description on K100-forum of adding a cutoff switch to a K100-4V (http://www.k100-forum.com/t8260-adding-a-keyed-battery-cut-off-switch-to-a-k100rs-16v)
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Thanks you guys !
Al