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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: jimmyk on July 02, 2011, 10:31:28 AM
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i have a 94 k75 with abs......i would like to learn to change the brake and clutch fluid myself.
the previous owner let this go before..and had to have the master cylinder rebuilt....i dont want it to happen again.
does having abs make it a more difficult job? ???
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i have a 94 k75 with abs......i would like to learn to change the brake and clutch fluid myself.
the previous owner let this go before..and had to have the master cylinder rebuilt....i dont want it to happen again.
does having abs make it a more difficult job? ???
No fluid in the clutch, Jimmy, it's dry. Could do the tranny though. Easy.
Brakes are easy also. You can use speed bleeders to speed things up or something like a Mighty Vac is helpful and bleed them once a year.
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Slightly more difficult job - but not by much. Pretty much like bleeding any brake system. Bleed at the ABS modulators first, then the calipers.
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i've been looking at the actron vac system.
has anyone used this? with any luck?
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I use a MightyVac.
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That (http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16292) looks like it will do the job. Kinda overkill if you ask me cause there are cheaper (http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=mityvac&hft_adv=10062&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=mityvac&utm_campaign=SubBrands%20-%20Exact) alternatives out there that will do a good job.
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Or just one of these (http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16343) .
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That's a cool tool. 8)
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i appreciate all the feedback..
wound up buying a pump bleeder from harbor freight.
now if i'm right,,,am i supposed to bleed the abs unit first, then the caliper?
sorry if i'm being a pita but its my first time ever attemting any kind of brake fluid change...
just didnt want to do anything wrong...
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rodger that jimmyk...
abs units 1st then calipers...
11mm wrench is your friend...
j o
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Just keep a carefull eye on that top resevior as it runs out real quick and the last thing you want to do is bleed them all over again.
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Just keep a carefull eye on that top resevior as it runs out real quick and the last thing you want to do is bleed them all over again.
That's a fact. Don't suck an air bubble down into the reservoir. They can be a PITA to get back out.
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Hi, jimmyk,
It sounds to me like you aren't BLEEDING brakes, only CHANGING the fluid. That being the case, I let nature do the work and siphon the old fluid out. I put the hose on the bleed connection with the hose end in a jar lower than the fluid reservoir. I leave a little fluid in the bottom of the jar, covering the hose end. Then I do the open/squeeze/close/release a few times until the hose has fluid and won't allow air into the lines. Then I leave the bleed screw open, checking the reservoir frequently, and let gravity do the work. First, do the ABS, then the brake caliper, then the other ABS, then the other brake caliper(s) (front or reaf first, it doesn't matter)
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin - El Paso, TX
'95 K75RTP
'94 K75A/3
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OK, Phil, I give. What's the difference between bleeding brakes and changing the fluid?
If you get air in the "hump" between the front ABS modulator and the calipers then it's hard to remove unless you take the calipers off and hang them above the hump to let the air rise to the caliper bleed valves.
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Hi, Duck,
It may be a matter of semantics. When I think of BLEEDING the brakes, I think I need to remove air from the system. I've never found air in my brake systems (except once when I changed a hose), so I consider all I'm doing is CHANGING the brake fluid.
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin - El Paso, TX
'95 K75RTP
'94 K75A/3