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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: welcometoashley on August 29, 2015, 03:18:44 PM
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I've read this is common with some K-bikes. If i'm riding and the sun is shining directly on the tach for 15-30min, it tends to stick/freeze at certain RPMs. As soon as it's out of direct sunlight for 10-15min, it works fine...
Anyone else experience this? And, if so, is there an easy/inexpensive fix? It doesn't totally bother me, but I'd like to fix it if it's simple enough...
btw, it's a '93 K1100LT.
Thanks!
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I've also read of this issue with the tac. What I have also read is that the issue comes down to the dial face(material with the numbers printed on it) is becoming "un secured" to the backing plate and it then swells under the heat of the sunlight and this swelling caused just enough deformation to allow the tach needle to touch the faceplate and stick.
I have read were some have dis-assembled the tac assy from the inst cluster, and then carefully re-glued the face plate back to the backing plate.
I have also read that it's not a good idea to try and remove the needle from the tac spindle to do this. Rather try and use a needle to put the glue in from the outside edges.
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yeah, the faceplate deforms and the tach needle sticks to it. When I had the pod apart for bad gears or bad connections I put some shims between the faceplate and the front of the housing. If the plate isn't warped too much pulling the tach needle out a scooch might do the trick.
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Thanks for the input, guys! It doesn't bother me enough to take apart the instrument cluster as I typically know what RPMs i'm at based on what the speedometer reads. Maybe this winter I'll have a look.
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I'm having this problem after 1-2 min's of sunshine - and it goes away after 2 mins f shadow. My problem is both with the tach and the speedometer needle. The needles sticks at any angle som i guess that my faceplate is warping all over.
I was planning taking the cluster of tomorrow, dismantle it completely to get the faceplate reglued like new hoping problem was fixed for the next 20 years or so.... :2thumbup:
Now i read this about not taking the needles of the tach :nono. Is that a hoax or will I be ruining the tach and speedo by pulling the needles?
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Well, I believe that it is more to do with the delicacy of the movement assy and the forces of pushing/pulling the pointer off/on the shaft. The process can sometimes(ie not always) cause alignment/calibration issues.
Not saying that you can't, just advising caution is all.
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greetings...
id put some of that cling style dark window tint on there...
j o
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After replacing the worn odometer gears (thanks odometergears.com), I took the opportunity to also replace the bulbs with LCDs and downward adjust the speed pot to compensate for about 10 mph too high.
After putting everything back together, the odometer worked perfectly and the LCDs looked great. The speedometer needle, however, was now sticking at about 50 mph. I took everything apart again and readjusted the speedo pot a tad higher and cleaned everything with Caig Deoxit (AWESOME CONTACT CLEANER!).
After everything was back together, the needle still stuck AND that stupid black bezel around the clock had come loose and was askew.
After reading about the warped faceplate I took a good look at the dial and saw the problem. The faceplate looked fine and flat and the spindle was not touching the sides of the hole. BUT, when I looked from the side, it looked like the needle was too close to the GLASS.
Took everything apart again and tried to push the needle further down the spindle but wouldn't move. Because of their shape, I couldn't add washers as spacers so I used very small black foam to cover the 4 holes where the screws attached the module to the glass housing. I used rubber cement to ensure they wouldn't move and a pin to poke holes where the screws would go through. I also readjusted the speedo pot to my best estimate of where I thought it would be most accurate- all the way counterclockwise then about 2 "clicks/mm" clockwise. It ended up just a hair past straight up.
Put everything back together and all worked perfectly!
Points to remember :
1) Do not remove the needle unless absolutely necessary. I removed it the first try and think this caused the sticking.
2) In addition to possibly rubbing the black faceplate, also consider the needle rubbing the glass. My whole purpose of this post is to add this point. I looked EVERYWHERE and never saw this issue. So if this can help 1 person it is worth the post.
3) Glue that stupid black clock bezel down!
In the attached picture you can see the black foam over the screw holes. Washers would have been better but I didn't have any that had a big enough hole for the screws AND small enough outer diameter to fit all 4 locations. You could Drexel down the small plastic barriers so washers would fit but I was pretty sure the foam would work.
Also note that I glued a couple of silica packets that come in vitamin bottles to possibly help with internal moisture. Not sure if this works, but I haven't had any moisture since installing them.
I highly advise taking a picture of the interior so you know where all the screws go. Mine is a 1992 model with the later gortex holes and I've included that picture.
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Dude -- you are one persistent, incorrigible, problem-solving machine.
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I'm convinced that it's the little crap in life that kills us. This stuff just drives me crazy! I search forums to avoid mistakes others have made. Hopefully, posting my mistakes will help the next guy.
P.S.- I've owned 2 MGs in the past.