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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: rudolf35 on June 30, 2011, 10:26:22 AM

Title: K75S clutch spline lube time
Post by: rudolf35 on June 30, 2011, 10:26:22 AM
Well, the K75S did very well on the test road trip to Little Rock from the DfW area and back. The bike, around town, shows the classic dry spline symptoms - hard to downshift without clutch cycling.

Anyway, it has been in "dry dock" since the LR trip and now the time has come to tend to the splines; after I did my R1150G'S clutch splines a month ago. What, I wonder, if there any pitfalls in doing the splines? Not the general how to but some little hidden things to look for? I know check the seals, friction material etc.; it is the hidden nargles I am after.
Title: Re: K75S clutch spline lube time
Post by: frankenduck on June 30, 2011, 10:43:33 AM
Check the condition of the clutch pushrod rubber boot ahead of time.  If it's looking bad then get a new one and replace it while you have things apart.

You'll want to get a new $15 exhaust gasket too. (K75 only) Those things are one use items.  Look for a nice disco display of shiny stuff out of the exhaust from the old one when you restart the bike. ;D

It's best to drain the final drive and tranny of gear oil before removing them.  When draining the tranny the stream will want to run down the center stand and make a nice mess on the floor.  This can be avoided if you use some aluminum foil to aim the gear oil into your drain pan.

The bottom tranny to bellhousing bolt heads will be most likely be filled with road grime.  Clean these out with a dental pick or small screwdriver ahead of time so that you can get an Allen wrench all of the way in and firmly seated so you don't strip the heads.

I've seen several spline lube write-ups indicating that you need to remove the luggage "Z" racks.  Not true.  Just unbolt them from the peg plates.

You don't need to remove the starter either.  Just use a piece of string to hold up the rear of it when reinstalling the tranny to keep it out of the way.

When you have things apart be sure to inspect the splines of the clutch plate for "the mountain effect."  See my post on Splientology. (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=490.0) If those show wear then you might want to consider replacing the clutch plate while you have things apart.

When putting the right peg plate back on be sure that you don't pinch the rear brake switch wires under one of the peg plate bolts.

Don't put beans up your nose. ;D
Title: Re: K75S clutch spline lube time
Post by: rudolf35 on July 02, 2011, 07:07:50 PM
On page 5 of this posting on ADV I started the spline lube with pics.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=663660&page=5 (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=663660&page=5)
Title: Re: K75S clutch spline lube time
Post by: rudolf35 on July 03, 2011, 01:21:00 PM
The tranny is off and things look good!
Title: Re: K75S clutch spline lube time
Post by: Phil Marvin on July 04, 2011, 04:44:35 PM
Hi, Rudolf35,
    You're in Arlington.  My daughter is in Arlington.  I have to have major surgery very soon and should have it in Dallas, then recovery in Arlington at my daughter's.  Visits, bullshit, tire kicking, telling lies, all will be appreciated.
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin - El Paso, TX
'95 K75RTP
'94 K75A/3
Title: Re: K75S clutch spline lube time
Post by: rudolf35 on July 09, 2011, 05:36:05 PM
Hi, Rudolf35,
    You're in Arlington.  My daughter is in Arlington.  I have to have major surgery very soon and should have it in Dallas, then recovery in Arlington at my daughter's.  Visits, bullshit, tire kicking, telling lies, all will be appreciated.
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin - El Paso, TX
'95 K75RTP
'94 K75A/3

PM sent!
Title: Re: K75S clutch spline lube time
Post by: rudolf35 on July 11, 2011, 08:11:17 AM
Don't put beans up your nose. ;D

The K75S is coming back together. I had no issues and the best advice I got, above, did the trick.  ;D

The spacers are between the transmission and the center stand mount. I used 7/16 spacers, that gave me a good inch of clearance between the tire and the ground while on the center stand.

Since I did not see a need to remove the exhaust header (in my shop setup) there was no need for a new gasket. I also opted for a new Odyssey battery from Tri-State Battery, $110 shipped. Not only will that lighten the bike up, wet v.s. dry, but the old wet battery did not do well sitting for a month; would take a charge but would drop to 12.2v after 12 hours sitting - not a good thing. Unfortunately the 50A alternator upgrade is on hold; my Triumph Scrambler needs new shoes and in today's economy I refuse to use the CC card - cash walks the rest we know.