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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Snowman on August 03, 2015, 07:02:07 PM

Title: Fork Seals methodology(?)
Post by: Snowman on August 03, 2015, 07:02:07 PM

When I have replaced fork seals on my other motorcycles I remove the entire fork leg from the bike and work on it on the bench. With a K1100, can you leave the fork legs on the bike and remove the lower slider section to replace the seals? Anyone done this?

Title: Re: Fork Seals methodology(?)
Post by: Scott_ on August 03, 2015, 07:22:56 PM

It can be done, but you are better off working with it on a bench. Much better results in the end.

Title: Re: Fork Seals methodology(?)
Post by: AussieBrick on August 04, 2015, 04:41:03 AM

I just did mine. You will need to:
A. Lift front of bike a little so front wheel can spin.
B. Remove front and rear sections of fender
C. Remove fork brace that holds brake lines
D. Remove left and right calipers
E. Remove abs sensor if fitted (watch out for shims)
F. Remove axle
G. Remove wheel
H. Loosen top triple clamp hex screws. If fairing fitted you will need a plain hex key and ratchet hex key.
I. From above loosen top hex screw on the lower triple clamp using the allen key
J. Loosen bottom and final screw from underneath using hex key or ratchet....out should slide your fork leg
K. Sevice the fork leg
L. Refit in reverese order.

Takes one hour if setup correctly. Two if you are drinking beer.

Title: Re: Fork Seals methodology(?)
Post by: Snowman on August 04, 2015, 09:51:00 AM

Thank you Scott & Aussie. What is it like working on a motorcycle without a beer?  :yes