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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: justintorg on June 18, 2015, 03:21:08 PM
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Hi All,
Just test drove my first K75s yesterday (which was freaking awesome), and I'm curious what people think about the "danger/deal" quotient is on this particular bike. It's my first bike, but I was pretty comfortable taking it around the city and in traffic, although I am also considering the merits of riding a lighter bike to make the learning curve a little less curvy.
It's a '94 with a salvaged title, being sold out of a shop here in San Francisco for $3k. Apparently, it was totaled after someone tried to steal the bike by drilling though the ignition, and the replacement part was more than the value of the bike. (Other damage was pretty superficial, small scuffs on the handles and the fairing, but nothing obviously repainted, so I trust the guy so far as that's concerned). As to the ignition, it seems like they hastily repaired it with an OEM part, although it's missing the top locking ring which keeps the cylinder from being easily pushed through the housing (doesn't bother me much, and seems like an easy fix for me later on).
More importantly, the ABS and Bulb Monitor lights never stopped blinking, and the mechanic didn't seem entirely sure why or how to fix either of them (or just didn't want to deal with it, and was waiting for someone else to buy it without asking). From reading up on this site (which is amazing, by the way), I now know that this could be either a type I or II fault, and I just won't know until I buy the thing or have another mechanic look at it. Otherwise, the breaks felt great and responsive. And I noticed that the left turn signal was in hyperflash, so that could also be what the Bulb Monitor was freaking out about.
My gut is to either ask the shop to get to the bottom of the ABS issue, or to knock $500 off to cover the risk I'm taking. I'm seeing prices on 94 K75S's all over the board in different states, from $2000-5000, and I'm trying to get a sense if this is a huge gamble or a small gamble on my part? I don't mind messing around with electrical quirks and troubleshooting, but I would love to avoid spending 3k on a bike only to find out that it'll need another 2k just to get up and running.
And then there's the issue of the salvaged title. Geico ran the VIN and said they'd offer me their regular rate, not higher on account of the distressed title, so that's less of an issue. But I am concerned that, in the event that this bike needs a lot more work, that I will have trouble off-loading it with the title issues. Or maybe that's not something people care about?
And So, oh wise and trusted motobrickers... what should I do?
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...aaaaand I forgot to mention - 18k miles, tires should be replaced within the next year, custom seat, regular wear and tear, etc.
See attached photo (CL ad expired today, although I'm pretty sure he hasn't sold it yet).
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I think you are right about prices varying widely, especially by location. You will have to figure that with new tires and probably a few others parts at a minimum, you are gonna potentially spend upwards of $500 right away on the bike, factor that into your budget. I would not worry as much about the salvage title as long as you are comfortable with the story and the condition of the bike, but it might hurt resale value. As far as the ABS, I do not have it on mine, so I can't comment on that, except that if it were me, I would want that sorted.
If you have not been looking for K bikes for long, you might consider taking your time and finding one that you are comfortable purchasing. good luck.
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As far as the ABS goes, I believe all K75's with ABS were first generation ABS. If I'm wrong on this would someone please correct me. That being said, the ABS fault may just need to be reset. Very easy to do, I've done it to my K100LT several times in the last 24 years that I have had the bike. Mostly in cold weather for some reason. The bulb monitoring relay does not monitor the turn signals so I doubt they problem with the turn signals is related. The bulb monitoring circuit only monitors the brake light. A hyper flashing turn signal could be an indication of a blown turn signal bulb. A salvage title would not bother me since when I buy a bike I'll keep it until it's no longer worth riding anyway. I'm still waiting on my three BMW's to reach the state of no longer worth riding.
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Personally, I think $3k is a fair price for the bike in good condition. That means no ABS faults and clear title. Things like tires are nice, but are normal wear items so I don't consider them unless they are totally shot.
If the bike runs well otherwise, I would offer $2500 and be prepared to walk away if the seller doesn't go lower than $2700. Getting to the bottom of an ABS issue could cost you at least $3-500 for parts if it's a brain or modulator problem, and those flashing lights might make it hard to pass a safety inspection.
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That salvage title is going to follow you around and make it harder to sell the bike down the road. If the ABS needs a pricey fix most owners just make do without it. All that and needing tires I'd offer $2000, no more that $2500 for a 21 year old bike.
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Thanks all - it's nice to use this place as a sounding board, and I really appreciate your feedback. This place rocks! At the end of the day, there's a good chance that I'm too attached to the low price point to make an intelligent decision... especially when coupled with the "don't buy the first bike you ride" rule. I think I'll politely lowball him at 2k because of the risk, then keep my eye our for a less-distressed K. Sucks though... I really want to be out on the road yesterday, so resisting impatience is probably my biggest obstacle.
Definitely still open to additional thoughts, and thanks again!
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greetings justintorg...
welcome to motobrick.com...
it does not matter why it has a salvage title... what matters is it has a salvage title... are there additional fees due to plate it... hum...
so... show me the documentation from the insurance company... thats the only way i will believe any of this...
ignition switch is more than 3k... come on... and its missing the top part of the ignition switch... you can see that with your own eyes... what caint you see... thats right... more whack...
the abs does not work... and they dont know why... whack whack whack...
hyperflash... bulb monitoring unit... whack whack whack...
does it come with the side bags and iconic 22 liter top box... heated grips... whack whack whack...
nothing sounds right about this deal... 2k is not a low ball... 1k is not a low ball... thats what they got into it... a grand or less... cause its whack whack whack...
j o
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You can buy a Honda NEW 2013 or 2014 CB1100 for maybe $7500 with warranty, plus tax and etc. maybe less.
You need to go lower, because a 21 year old bike is going to need a lot of rubber replacement over the next few years to be reliable and safe.
$2,500 is wack. You will have to be a good wrench fast, as the BMW shop cost will eat you alive for repairs.
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First bike? Get something smaller and learn how to ride. Have fun, and enjoy having that time to get a feel for the Motobrick marketplace. Check out all the 250 Ninjas on CL and EBay.
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+1 on that. The K bike is heavy for a first starter bike
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... Apparently, it was totaled after someone tried to steal the bike by drilling though the ignition, and the replacement part was more than the value of the bike.
A brand new BMW ignition switch costs less than $150 from the dealer.
Walk away.
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I agree with Jonny and a few others on this. Things just don't add up.
Also agree that for a first bike something smaller and lighter would be a better idea. My K75 was (is) my first big bike, and that was with 20 years of no bike. Not getting restarted with something lighter is my only regret with it.
Getting everything sorted out that may not be quite could cost you 1000's if you don't do your own wrenching, and for a first bike, you need it to be 100%.