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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: 3DdesignsK75S on May 13, 2015, 11:33:39 PM
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I need to replace my voltage regulator and I ordered one online, but it's going to take a week to get here.
Does anybody know a trick to get one in a part store, so I don't have to wait? Maybe for a specific car that they would carry regularly? Looks like this is a part that they used in literately thousands of vehicles, European cars and even John Deere. I tried but no luck asking for the Bosch number.
Thanks in advance.
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For my 1991 K75RT, I used a "Wilson" Electrical products (part # 62-15-6635) and total cost was $16.45, a pretty inexpensive repair (regulator and brush assembly), which I bought at a local auto parts store here in Red Deer. I think it was for a 1960's era Volvo with a Bosch alternator, but could be a bit off. Anyway, since you are in the USA, it will likely be less expensive and probably easier to source... Hope you have some success!...
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Thanks I'll check into that. Mind you the one I ordered is a Bosch part and I only paid 15 bucks including shipping, so at the end I think I might just wait it out. They said it's being sent today.
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Seems like I bought a Bosch regulator assembly for my K100RS from a Volvo dealer years ago, but passed all the receipts on to the fellow who bought the bike from me, so can't give you the part number. Anyway, I'm sure you'll be fine, perhaps you could also post the part number to the forum for replacements here, as all info for these machines is helpful... Good luck!...
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perhaps you could also post the part number to the forum for replacements here, as all info for these machines is helpful... Good luck!...
Bosch 1 197 311 090 (32A alternator).
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This is the one I bought 5yrs ago for my '95LT. The price has gone up since then, but it works fine.
http://store.alternatorparts.com/ib385-359108-voltage-regulator-brush-holder-assembly-for-bosch-alternators.aspx
(http://store.alternatorparts.com/ProductImages/IB385-1.jpg)
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Replaced the voltage regulator, but no dice. There is no voltage increase measured across the battery when the engine is running and revved. Pulled the alternator for getting it tested, then will go from there.
The interesting thing is that I had no red light indicator for the no charge. So I don't know if the two issues are related or independent. Maybe the no charge light isn't working either that's why I didn't know the alternator wasn't charging in the first place. Also had all the wrong fuses 10Amp vs 15Amp etc, and maybe that can cause issues???
Anyway, pls feel to pitch in with ideas.
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Is the red indicator light good?
There is supposed to be a small current thru the lamp to activate the alternator to charge.
Some will say that you can ramp the rpm's up above 2500 and the alt will "self excite" but that isn't a 100% guarantee.
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Yes. I think so. We swapped eggs indicator light for a known good one. It's not working either.
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Here is a link to a simple drawing of a 3 phase field coil excited alternator http://www.c-realevents.demon.co.uk/altgen/hraltdiag.jpg . As per the drawing, there are only a few things that could be wrong, an open/shorted field coil or stator coil, bad regulator (you've checked that and was OK), bad diodes or some wiring problem. Since the charge light itself is OK you can eliminate that, but not the wiring to/from it. Referring to the simple drawing, it shows that if your charge light does not come on at the start position, no field current will flow and the alternator will not work. Have a peek at the drawing and it should give you some ideas about further investigation...
Eric...
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Had the alternator checked. The ground circuit is open which is why the no charge light doesn't come on either. In other words the alternator is broken.
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Had the alternator checked. The ground circuit is open which is why the no charge light doesn't come on either. In other words the alternator is broken.
So likely the field coil is open? In that drawing, all the things that connect to the negative terminal of the battery are connected to the ground circuit, the field coil is difficult, the rest is relatively easy... Unfortunately, looks like you are likely in for an expensive fix, I'd be looking for a good used one...
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Already bought a used one on ebay. I just opted for the original 33 Amp version since I don't have any additional electronics that need more juice and also all my tail and signal lights are LED. Since I had bought a new voltage regulator I'll swap that in and I hope it'll take care of it.