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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Angus gentleman on April 13, 2015, 12:49:02 PM
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Hi ! I've been replacing the clutch on my 1986 k100 !
The old crank shaft oil seal had been leaking a bit so I decided to replace it .
When I got the new one it was different from the old one , Bmw said it was an updated version .
The inner seal was very tight and I tore it 😖
It's there a special way to fit them ????
Help I'm bikeless
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Pretty sure you need to get a new seal.
The new seals don't mount entirely flush either.
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about two thirds down the page you will see two links re: installation of new seal
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/mainseal.shtml
It needs to protrude slightly from the engine casing, whereas the old seal sits flush.
This is all easier said than down. BMw made a tool for it, but good luck finding one.
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http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2652.msg15008.html#msg15008
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,1350.msg6188.html#msg6188
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,3946.msg24150.html#msg24150
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Angus,
I replaced my rear main earlier. It is a little daunting but if the son of poor Newfie immigrants can do it so can you. You really need to get a proper drift of some kind. You will see different references for suitable items including ABS/ PVC pipe, etc.. The rub is getting sufficient (and not excessive force) to transmit through the drift to the seal all while trying to maintain an even vertical plane installation...if that makes sense. I actually drove mine a little to deep and had to fashion a tool to pull it out without damaging the seal. Let me know if you need info on that...I'd be happy to send a photo and explanation. Be patient...a whack at a time. Getting them started is a bit of a trick but once started it's not too bad.
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The seal should protrude 0.5-0.6mm from the block face.