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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: skidmore on March 29, 2015, 08:10:01 AM
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My ABS rocker switch seems to not be working. Duck's how-to is a blessing but it doesn't get specific with the technique required to get the switch out of the handlebar pad. He says sometimes you fiddle with it and pull it out but sometimes you have to push it out the back. Can anyone share specific details with me? I looked it over. There isn't much slack to be able to pull it out away from the tank/bars. I haven't been able to progress far enough to determine if it can be pulled out the front of the pad or if it will need pushed out the back.
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Generally I believe that they are supposed to come out the front. I've never tried to push one out the back.
Each switch has maybe about 12" of wire tail that goes down along the steering head stock to a connector plug under the front of the gas tank.
Not the easiest to get at, but it can be done, just be patient and careful when digging into the wire bundle.
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Duck's how-to appears to show the wires soldered onto the switch as opposed to spade terminals or similar. Am I wrong to expect some sort of terminal for easy disconnect/connect or is soldering par for the course?
Yesterday I didn't get too anxious to remove it from the pad. It has turned seasonably cold and my (attached) garage isn't heated. It was maybe 38-40 degrees when I was goofing with it. (overnight lows have been in the upper 20s). I was fearful of breaking the switch housing or retaining tabs due to the temp and due to the aged shitty plastic :eek:
Maybe I can try a trial attempt with the one dummy rocker that is in the pad....
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chances are you are not going to break the switch removing it from the pad...
what i did was cut the wires a few inches from switch... then instead of using the switch i just twisted them together and untwisted them as necessary...
then i put an ohm meter on the switch side to make sure it was working... then put crimp connectors on there... was 100% till it went to motobrick heaven...
j o
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LOL @ twist/untwist as needed. Easy peasy :) I suppose for the sake of invoking the ABS switch for the sake of a reset, I could clip the wires like you did and twist/untwist as needed. Actually I like that idea as opposed to fugging with popping open the switch. haha
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Duck's how-to appears to show the wires soldered onto the switch as opposed to spade terminals or similar. Am I wrong to expect some sort of terminal for easy disconnect/connect or is soldering par for the course?
Yesterday I didn't get too anxious to remove it from the pad. It has turned seasonably cold and my (attached) garage isn't heated. It was maybe 38-40 degrees when I was goofing with it. (overnight lows have been in the upper 20s). I was fearful of breaking the switch housing or retaining tabs due to the temp and due to the aged shitty plastic :eek:
Maybe I can try a trial attempt with the one dummy rocker that is in the pad....
Yes, from the factory the wires are soldered for best reliability.
Like Johnny mentioned, you could cut the wires, then when you have the switch cleaned and ready to put back in, you can re-connect the wires with your own type of wire connection. Just remember that if they aren't soldered, it will become another point of 'potential failure' in the future, most likely due to corrosion than anything else.
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Makes sense, Scott. Thx!
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i use solder on solderless connectors because doing what im not supposed to do empowers me and getts my adrenalin going... i apply good solid judgement when my adrenalin has been whipped up...
j o
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To get the switch out, you need to compress the fingers at the ends of the switch that hold it into the panel. I have used a fine jewelers screwdriver from the top. Push straight in between the switch and the panel and then lever the tip toward the switch body while putting some upward pressure on the switch. Get one end up and repeat if necessary on the other. If you can get the panel up, it is easier to compress them from the bottom.
Once you have the switch out and can get to the terminals on the bottom, just use a piece of metal to jump the terminals. A broad screwdriver should work. You shouldn't have to rework the switch to reset the ABS.
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Excellent. The technique makes perfect sense when looking at the photos and the retaining notches in Duck's pics. Thanks!