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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: dfx on February 01, 2015, 12:49:33 PM
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Hi folks how did you resolve this problem? The long screws that hold the battery are siezed up. I'd like to get them out without ruining them if possible.
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penetrating fluid and walk away for a while.......is my best suggestion, but you probably already knew that. :dunno
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Yes I was planning trying again next weekend with a beefier screwdriver. But not feeling very optimistic.
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make your own penetrating oil: 50/50 mix of acetone and merc/dextron auto trans fluid. this blend works better than any store bought product.
i have mine in a hand-pump squirt bottle so i can mist or solid stream as necessary. apply and let it soak a while.
g'luck
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Penetrating fluid of some description (any of the above, or plusgas -- but NOT WD40...)
Do the screw up a touch first until you hear a crack or it moves a little - it's much easier to crack off the corrosion that way. Then don't try to unwind it all at once, come out, then in, then out a bit more, then in, etc... Keep applying the lube.
You may need to hit it. Although if you haven't used impact to free an electrolytically corroded bolt before this might not be the very best thing to practice on.
If it does end bady and the screw snaps use a left hand twist drill slowly with plenty of lube - don't go anywhere near those godawful 'ez-out' things - those that are like a tapered left hand thread screw. Odds on that will snap as well and then it's even more of a ballache job. Oh, and of you have to do that I'd probably say to do it in-situ otherwise the studs will shear off the mounting rubbers and you suddenly have another job and an extended 'parts to buy' list.
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After the penetrating oil treatment, use a Vicegrip or slip joint pliers on the shank of the screw as well as a Philips screwdriver on the head. That will allow you to apply more torque.
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"make your own penetrating oil: 50/50 mix of acetone and merc/dextron auto trans fluid. this blend works better than any store bought product.
i have mine in a hand-pump squirt bottle so i can mist or solid stream as necessary. apply and let it soak a while.
g'luck"
As quoted above although my preferred "mix" is an equal mix of dexron 2,acetone & white spirits.Also I find it best to first try to first tighten a seized bolt then work to and fro before tying to fully unscrew/
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How about a screw-whacker? Harbor Freight has them pretty cheap (the kind you use with a hammer)
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Same thing happened to me a while ago, I resorted to a vice grip to get them out. Slow and smooth, they still fought me all the way. I ordered new ones ($8 I think) and a new tube of copper anti-sieze.
Along that note, I recently happened across these:
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Battery-Bolts-BMW-K-BAT-Bolt-p/bat-bolt.htm (http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Battery-Bolts-BMW-K-BAT-Bolt-p/bat-bolt.htm)
Seems an Allen head would be superior to a screw - anyone have any experience with them?
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Can you get any heat to it? Either paint strip gun or a really fine map gas type torch?
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make your own penetrating oil: 50/50 mix of acetone and merc/dextron auto trans fluid. this blend works better than any store bought product.
i have mine in a hand-pump squirt bottle so i can mist or solid stream as necessary. apply and let it soak a while.
g'luck
Second that.
Better than Kroil, even.
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There are rubber grommets bits under the battery tray so careful with the heat. And acetone isn't good for paint. Just sayin'.
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Just for the record, in case anyone else stumbles upon the thread, I got the screws out with a mole grip. Is that a vice grip? I don't know. Anyway, gripped them at the top of the shank hard so less chance of slipping and they came undone easily. I couldn't believe I didn't think of it myself. Thanks.