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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Motorhobo on October 06, 2014, 09:56:47 AM
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Continuing the discussion of this problem in a new thread -- I'm not well educated in electrical issues, so please bear with me while I try to get a handle on this.
Problem -- the starter won't crank, when I push the starter button, it clicks and hums, as if there weren't s not enough power to the starter to turn it. Cranking has been gradually weaker over the three weeks prior to completely failing. The past few times it turned over, the ABS light was blinking. Everything else -- lights, turn signals, horn -- appears to have enough power and not be affected. I did install an EB headlight relay a month before this started happening. I haven't disconnected the EB relay because I don't see how that could be related. Here's what I've done so far:
Cleaned main ground contact at left side of bike.
Swapped out the starter from a running bike -- the other bike continues to start and run fine, so it's not a starter-internal problem.
Checked battery voltage -- good at 12.6V.
Checked for parasitic drain -- none found.
So I'm figuring either the starter isn't getting enough power to turn or there's a ground fault. Before I start swapping relays out between the two bikes, can anyone tell me if there's any way to test voltage or ground at the starter?
There was a mention in the earlier thread about the ABS relay but that had to do with a parasitic draw which I don't have. If the ABS relay could be related to the non-cranking starter, I will pull it but again, I don't want to start pulling relays until I check any other power/ground issues directly at the starter.
BTW back in 2006 I butt-spliced a wire under the starter but I can't remember why...I think it had something to do with the low-beam headlights but it was a long time ago. Maybe someone could remind me why I might have done that and whether there could be a connection to this considering the addition of the EB relay, which is connected directly at the battery.
Or if anyone has any other ideas I'd appreciate any input. This bike is my main ride and I'd like to get it back on the road.
Van
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Have you tried swapping out the battery?
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Ed -- I'll keep an eye on the battery but...
You'd think I'd not have fallen for this after having done it a thousand times and reading a thousand posts that have this resolution, but:
I unplugged the ECU, sprayed some contact cleaner on plug and jack and now it cranks. Duh.
I picked up some dielectric grease a couple weeks ago. Should I treat the ECU plug and jack with it and if so, how much to you put on there and how do you apply it?
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I'll add to this, since there are so many new members here lately, that the bad ECU connection also disabled the ABS, which i just fixed with a simple ABS reset. Boy was I happy when that flashing light went out!
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Have you tried swapping out the battery?
Hey Ed -- guess what...it was the battery. 12.6V, CCA nothing. You'd think I'd know better than expect more than 18 months out of a $50 battery but I guess I did.
Btw pdg will have a cow but the battery store said you can definitely extend battery considerably by keeping it topped off with a tender, which I will do from now on.
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Mine came with a $40 Energizer Lawn & Garden battery from Walmart. There's a 5/09 sticker on it.
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Mine came with a $40 Energizer Lawn & Garden battery from Walmart. There's a 5/09 sticker on it.
So that's still the one that's in your bike now?
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Umm, yup. Second season.
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Oh -- I thought you were saying you've had it in there since 09...in which case I want one.
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I got the bike in Feb '13, so 2 seasons for me. The sticker leads me to believe the battery was installed in May 2009. The PO did have to trim the posts a tad to fit it under the ecu.
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Can someone make this unsticky? Its not very interesting...if I do say so myself :riding: