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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: cmattina on September 25, 2014, 02:03:34 PM
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I replaced the clutch friction plate due to uneven spline wear this summer. I had a new rear main seal but was hesitant to install it as mine was not leaking (yet). The upgraded rear main seal seems like it needs to be installed in such a way that it protrudes slightly from the engine, whereas the original design sits flush. If the main seal protrudes slightly it seems very difficult to install it square unless one has some sort of machined block with a reassess in it to hammer it in…
Is this making sense to anyone?
I am hoping to put a new one in this winter, as, of course the seal started leaking after I reinstalled the tranny.
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I don't remember if it was this forum or another one..........where someone made this tool out of Wood
and did mount pieces of 0,5 mm sheet metal around the outer circumference.
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http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=1350.msg6322#msg6322 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=1350.msg6322#msg6322)
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Thanks guys!
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Here's a slightly simpler way:
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=3216.msg20251#msg20251 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=3216.msg20251#msg20251)
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When I replaced mine a few years ago I set the protrusion by feel. I think I may have used a super-thin washer butted up against the edge of the seal for reference. It's not rocket science, but you do want to be sure the seal protrudes evenly all the way around.
Of course you need to make sure the seal doesn't protrude so much that it contacts the spinning clutch housing :)
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I used a piece of posterboard cardboard with a circle center cutout to attain depth , used a large socket as a driver that bottomed out on cardboard.
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Cut the side out of a plastic milk container or similar and use it as a template around the seal :-)