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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Finnigan on August 06, 2014, 02:15:30 PM
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In the process of wiring up a digital gauge on my k100. I was trying to see if the speedsensor was connected correctly: I turned the key to the ON position and while the bike was on its center stand spun the wheel as fast as i could by hand but nothing registered. I'm sure its connected correctly but still nothing. Does the engine have to be on? Does the bike only pick up speed over a certain speed (say 10mph)?
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I may not remember correctly, but I looked at two used K75s and put both of them on the center stand, started the bike and ran it through the gears...the speedo did register...I did not try to turn the wheel with the bike in neutral and the engine off...Some may think it is an elementary question, but if you knew the answer you would not have asked..
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If you are just checking for function, pop it out and put a soldering iron near it. IIRC the soldering iron should run the speedo up to ~45.
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If you are just checking for function, pop it out and put a soldering iron near it. IIRC the soldering iron should run the speedo up to ~45.
Don't even need to remove it. Just put a soldering iron near the sensor.
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Not sure if a "pencil" or low wattage iron would have enough power with the sensor still mounted.......
I have a 100W iron that works just fine with the sensor still in the fd housing.
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In the process of wiring up a digital gauge on my k100. I was trying to see if the speedsensor was connected correctly
The signal from the OEM speed sensor is to weak for the aftermarket digital speedos/gauges.
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Got another question: Finished the wiring (or so i thought) and the neutral light will only come on when i pull the clutch lever in. Clearly I have the clutch kill switch hooked up. Which wire is for neutral indicator?
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Which wire is for neutral indicator?
It isn't one wire for the neutral indicator.....it's three which is grounded in different config for the GPI and
the neutral indicator............the decoder is in the old cluster.
Go to the "K100 Forum" where you also is a member, use the search function..."wiring a Acewell".
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The 3 relay mod worked! Thanks!! Only issue is the large relays keeping the connections when pushed into a tight space.
I have another (small) issue: The 'bright' dummy light only comes on when i flash the brights, not when they are in the ON position. Any suggestions for that?
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The 'bright' dummy light only comes on when i flash the brights, not when they are in the ON position.
Sorry, I don't quite understand the language.........
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I think he means the brights don't work when the switch is fully engaged, but rather only when the switch is pressed and held. I had that once too if I remember aright. I ended up getting another combo switch from Drake...at that time there was no motobrick.com....
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Is the high beam lighting when you use the "hi" switch as well as the "flash".
The inst panel indicator light is wired to the high beam lamp output of the lamp switch, so it makes me wonder if your high beam isn't working with the standard "hi" maintained switch, but yet works with the momentary "flash" switch contact. In which case you most likely have a dirty/bad selector switch.
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Hmm..thanks...I only understand "high beam"....did first think it was related to the modded neutral circuit.
A bad hi/lo beam switch is a rather common problem.....could be a idea to install a relay kit from Eastern
Beaver when you got the problem sorted.
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Hmm..thanks...I only understand "high beam"....did first think it was related to the modded neutral circuit.
A bad hi/lo beam switch is a rather common problem.....could be a idea to install a relay kit from Eastern
Beaver when you got the problem sorted.
I just installed the EB relay kit but I don't see how that would have anything to do with the bad switch. The switch will be doing the hi-lo switching regardless of where the relay is in the circuit and where it's getting its power. You mean he's got to get the switch sorted first, I assume.
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The dash light will come on when 'flash' button is held but not with high beams are in 'high beam'
This is a NOS switch, I don't want to open it up if i don't have to. I was hoping it was a simpler wiring problem...
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I just installed the EB relay kit but I don't see how that would have anything to do with the bad switch. The switch will be doing the hi-lo switching regardless of where the relay is in the circuit and where it's getting its power. You mean he's got to get the switch sorted first, I assume.
Inge means to get the switch problem sorted first, then install a relay to prevent the problem from reoccurring in the future.
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Sorry -- I misunderstood. I guess Finnegan means the blue indicator light on the dash not the high beams themselves. My bad.
Inge means to get the switch problem sorted first, then install a relay to prevent the problem from reoccurring in the future.
Don't understand how a relay would prevent switch failure...doesn't the switch fail from corrosion or is it voltage related?
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It can vary, but it's not uncommon for a switch to fail from softening plastic around the electrical contact. Sometimes this plastic can deform enough that the contact stops conducting current. One potential cause recently can be a headlamp with higher wattage than stock.
The switches can also collect dirt(from years of use), once the dirt starts to collect it will interfere with the switch contacts conducting current, and you then end up with the same situation as above......softened and deformed plastic.
Once the switch is fresh, the relays will control/switch the lamp current, so that the bar selector switch will only have the current load of the relay coil.
Re the original question, he really hasn't said yet if it is just the indicator that isn't working or if the headlamp is also not working.
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Its the indicator for the high beam that doesnt work. I'm wiring up a new set of dummy lights on my new dashboard