MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: Finnigan on July 15, 2014, 04:46:09 PM
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Figured I'd start my thread here. Here's how I got my 1990 K100LT
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First thing I did was change out broken dash bulbs with red LEDs
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Then I put in 4-hole injectors: better throttle response
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Then I put on bigger headers with a supertrapp muffler
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Next was removing the ass-ugly front and putting some tracker bars on it
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I just finished putting new front suspension on her
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Wanted to put on this rear wheel
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Had this problem...
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Wheels before and after
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Bought this
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Loving those new wheels!
Is the Supertrapp nice and loud? :)
Looking real good so far man!
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Appreciate that, na just throaty. I can only tell the difference when it bounces off a building i'm riding next to
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What did you decide to do about the rear wheel misalignment 'problem' in the end?
I put an R1100RS rear wheel on mine and it's out too - I ignored it...
The only difference in handling I've noticed is it's WAY better with decent rubber rather than what was on the original hoops.
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I'm in the process of converting to a paralever final drive, that will cure the offset issue
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Paralever *should* do it...... And it's prettier.
I never considered it an 'issue' on mine, mainly because of the amount of shaft drive bikes that don't have the wheels in line from the factory. I can honestly say I've never noticed that my wheels aren't in line, it tracks straight with no hands and everything :riding:
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Thats a relief to know, I had no idea it was common for shaft drives to have misaligned front and rears! If I can't notice a difference I'm going to leave mine as is. Do you have pics of yours?
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Apparently I never took a picture right from the back, and it's dark out now - I'll grab one tomorrow though.
It doesn't look hugely different to how yours is, a bit because I've 'only' put the 4.5" wheel on, plus I omitted the spacer ring (which moved it right a whole 2mm)....
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Can I fit better injectors to my K1100LT ?
Mines done 93000 and I'm going to give it a fettle this winter! :2thumbup:
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Here's mine...
(http://i.imgur.com/woAgRCy.jpg)
With this wheel...
(http://i.imgur.com/wdZ3LBv.jpg)
I know it's a 75, but the arm parts are the same...
How does yours fit clearance wise with that tyre? I have about 3-4mm between the tyre and swingarm, and I had to 'modify' the centrestand stop on the exhaust to get it to fit - I'm running an 18" now though. I've got to get a new rear tyre and because of what I've chosen I think I'm going to have to put the spacer back in and move it a little further to the left again.
And for the injectors jacksdad is on about, yes... You can either pore over spec lists and see what is cross references from car applications and such, or you could phone an injection specialist - there is much more choice than 'they' would have you believe ;)
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On my K1100LT: I fitted a 150/70 x 17 Battlax BT023 to the standard rear wheel without a problem, bike rides like a dream with the matching 110 front BT023.
I've also tried a K1100RS 4.5" rim, with a 160/60 x 18 battlax, fits fine once again, handles great, but I needed to deflate the tyre to get it past the exhaust: no problem as I carry a tyre pump!
Thinking of trying the RS front wheel next, with a 120/70 x 17 Battlax...tbh I haven't noticed any difference with the rear wheel/tyres, gues I need to get the 17" RS rim fitted with a new tyre and try it!
Just why did the K1100LT and RS have such different wheel & tyre size differences? they are pretty much the same bike... :dunno2:
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The difference in tyre sizes is the same reason the R1100RS has a different wheel to the R1100S, it's because.......
It's an R series wheel on mine, probably identical part number to a K series, but hey - that's what it came from. When I bought it it was described as a 17", when it turned up it was an 18". Initially disappointed but quite quickly realised it opend up a fair few options for A/T tyres instead, so it's staying (for now at least - unless a spokey GS wheel turns up cheap). I have to take the exhaust off to sensibly get the wheel fitted, never mind, it's only a couple more bolts.
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The 4.5" rim doesn't have much of a noticeable offset, I'll try and put my wheel on tomorrow and take a pic for reference too
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The 4.5" with a 160 tyre fits pretty much centrally on by K1100, certainly no more offset than the standard wheel, I've left in the packing shim which keeps the tyre away from the swing arm.
Only problem is the tyre won't go past the exhaust unless I deflate it: not a problem as I carry a small compressor (£4.00 from the local cheap store!)
I need to replace all the exhaust studs and nuts as they are corroded beyond help, otherwise I could remove the exhaust. Just a pity its a one piece system otherwise I could of course just remove the silencer :2thumbup:
I converted the aux. power sockets to standard size automotive/marine ones, which have waterproof caps, the one in the radio box was already a standard car type anyway, but now I've got 3 to use!
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It's not easy but you can take just the silencer off, loosen the bolts holding on the clamps for the headers. Although I think it would be easier taking it off completely
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Its all one piece, I've looked :2thumbup:
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Thing is, as far as I know all the K1100's run a paralever, while the 75 and 100 run a monolever...
Anything that 'fits' an 11 won't necessarily fit on a 75/100, or at least, fit in the same way (clearance, alignment, etc).
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Are you talking about the rear drive?
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Yes, from a few 'eyeball' measurements I've taken the paralever is built to accomodate a wider wheel/tyre assembly than the monolever while keeping it more inline.
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You are correct sir, the paralever is built to take a wider tire and will bolt right up to the k100 gear box. The conversion is swapping out driveshaft, swingarm, and final drive of the 1100
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Not all of the 75 and 100 gearboxes have the mounting lugs for the paralever arm though -- mine doesn't... I need to change geabox (or at least casing, or make a bracket off the stand mount) if I want to go para.
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True, fortunately I have a late model that has the mounting bung(?) and all I need to do is drill a hole through it
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Yea, the 2 valve bikes got clamp together exhaust systems, 4 valve bikes came with their head pipes welded to the muffler. Probably at least partly because the clamped systems like to vibrate apart and chew up the mating surfaces.
As for the rusted studs. My 85 looked like hell but came apart easy because of the brass/bronze nuts used by the factory. I seriously expected to wreck the head but only one stud came with its nut.
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I'm sure the ehxuast nuts an studs on my K11 are lowest quality steel ever made! The nuts have all but corroded away, in fact one has done just that and the exhaust is blowing slightly. I can cut the remains off with a Dremel, just hoping the studs unscrew from the head without snapping :2thumbup:
I've got a complete K1100RS drivetrain, gearbox, torque arm etc. the whole lot, done 44k miles if anyone here in sunny GB wants one :yes
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How much to ship the final drive, drive shaft, swingarm and torque arm to california USA????
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...?
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I've now sold the parts, sorry for the delay (been ill)
I dread to think how much it would cost to ship, we're talking hundreds of $$$$$ :mbird
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Just for interest's sake on the subject of westward transatlantic postage, a few years ago I sold a zenith carb for a land rover and posted it to the buyer in Maine....
Cost of postage for a package less than 8" cube and weighing about 2lbs?
Just over £60...........
Freight rates would probably be less per lb, but certainly not 'cheap'.
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Pitty, hope you're feeling better.
Got the front calipers on tonight with new brake pads, handlebars finally have the risers to clear the fork adjusters and I decided to mock up the dashboard mount
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Hi Finn, how did it go wiring up that Motogadget? I have exactly the same project bike (color and all) but progress is way behind you.
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It's not bad except for the neutral switch. I'm trying to figure that out now... Apparently someone did it with an Acewell gauge but I'm still looking for a definitive answer
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New foot control position
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Just read through this thread - having followed it on another forum.
Re: the rear wheel "alignment". If your wheel is out of alignment [ as in skewed ] - you have a major problem.
If your wheel is "offset" [ front to rear axis ] - then no problem.
All frame combos for both K100 models and K1100 models use the same dimensional properties for the frame / swingarm with a wide range of rim widths. The offset makes absolutely NO difference to the handling. There is no way a 2mm or 4mm shim can centralise wheels with over 1" difference in width. Yes the wheel rims are offset to the hub [ wheel ] - but not that anount.
Check the OEM manual [ 1100 ] they even give you the offset front to rear.
Both my Fighter and Ben Kingham's B.E.A.R.S. championship winning bikes use 5" and 5.5" 5 spoke wheels on the back. I'm using k1200s 5 spoke front in K1100 forks with a one off spindle [ axle ].
Still contemplating your front end swap for another project - excellent work BTW
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Thanks very much, there is an offset in the rear wheel but its not skewed. As far as the front swap goes its pretty strait forward with different bearings, but you can use the original races. I had to get wheel and brakes but if you have a complete front end you might be able to do it all in one afternoon.
Hope to put some new pics up today